Iceni

If you are 100% that it's not the selector and the little spring is in place. Then it's something you have done to the gearbox. COL damaged or too tight. Damage to the contacts dolly. Edit: The selector wants to go backwards not forwards as I said above... There's a little cutout at the front of the selector that the COL rides in. When the COL drops into that wider part the gun should be in semi.

Selector plate is a tooth out on the linkage. Makes the gun go Safe>Auto>Auto @Adolf Hamster I thought you owned a boat load of AK's! Have you never had this happen! The selector probably wants moving 1 tooth backwards. But it might be more than that. When you get it right A dab of paint on the selector and linkage will give you a quick rebuild reference.

PME is usually fatal. I don't believe there is such a thing as a little bit of PME. Piston bounce (no padding and a piston that physically bounces off the cylinder head is sorted by adding some padding) and Double shooting (High speed motor on slower high ratio gears [the gears spin faster 18:1+] allows the bevel and spur to act like flywheels dragging a second shot out of the gear train energy - Sorted with correct gearing and motor choice) are not PME. Once any PME has happened then there's going to be damage. There isn't space in a gearbox for damage not to happen, crushed piston, stripped teeth or collapsed bearings as well as many other things can and will happen. The reason there is no such thing as a little PME is as soon as the gears cycle faster than piston you run out of space. The rack on the piston is moving forwards and can be imagined to be a solid bar, The teeth on the sector are out of sync and will not pick up at that very specific point in the cycle so they also can be thought of as a solid bar. If those 2 bars touch then it's game over for at least some parts. The only way to make more space is for either the piston, rack or gear train to move out of the way of each other. There is also no single answer or solution that will solve the problem. You can reduce the teeth on the sector, allowing the gears a delay on pickup or speed up the piston. That isn't going to solve an attempt to push insane RPS out of an AEG. If you want RPS go dual sector with a slower gear train and bigger (faster) spring, or get an HPA engine that doesn't have the same mechanical limits. So you need to look at what you have and access it, Post the parts up so we can judge them. Just be warned there are limits for an AEG and unless you are willing to spend a lot of time 25ish RPS should be considered the safe limit even after modifications. 13:1, HT motor, 2tooth SS, 7.4v lipo will get close to 25 rps without many issues. If you are wanting to push past that then the forum clams up a little, as anyone that has pushed past that and made it work did a hell of a lot of work and put some serious investment into the gearbox. And they probably have absolutely no faith in the durability or the gearbox.

Crushed piston rear end. PME failure. You can see how the rack has twisted up and out of the way allowing the sector to gouge the rack. You were lucky it didn't destroy anything else, but I wouldn't have any faith in that gear set not having cracks in the teeth. I'm surprised it was running at all with all that lube. For less than £3 you can get a nice soft moly grease for gears... At a push I'd use it on the pistol rings as well. It's far better than nothing. I've been using it on my own gears for a pretty long time now. Use on metal/metal contact areas if you have a silicone based grease as well for the plastic/plastic plastic/metal areas. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391721324225?epid=1548017327&hash=item5b34690ec1:g:bj4AAOSwsnpe6QpA If you are feeling flush then I use this on my plastic/plastic and plastic/metal contact points. Pistons - O-rings - Selector plates ect. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391399159157?hash=item5b21353575:g:fDUAAOSw6fBclQTY

Soldering is easy. If you struggle with it then you are doing something wrong or failing to understand the solder you are using. Soldering the easy way: Buy a cheap soldering iron that has a temp control. £20 on ali express. Get solder that has a low melting point. Forget lead free, some 60/40 or 63/37 is perfect for electronics. Get some flux. Colophony 20g tins can be had on ebay for like £2. Set the soldering iron to be slightly over the melting point of the solder. 60/40 melts at 188C so set the iron for 200C. 63/37 melts at 183C set the iron to 195C. Clean your parts - Acetone or isopropanol and make sure you remove any grease. Get to temp - Dip in flux - Tin soldering iron. Dip in flux - heat part - Add solder. Work in halves. So tin the wire, then tin the part. Then heat the part and bring the wire to it and melt together. After soldering is complete clean with some isopropanol. Simple as that. If you work quickly and know exactly what you are working with it's just getting the hang of repeating yourself over and over.

Just another note - If you do go with the deans split you can solder the motor wires to the motor. It makes for a much better connection.

It's the same as any other mosfet, I have a better picture for the wiring tho. Cut on the red crosses. The 2 green wires become the trigger. You can solder the perun wires directly to them (polarity doesn't matter) The 2 blue wires are the motor wires, Polarity is important so pay attention. If you want sexy wires then you need to add in a set of deans between the mosfet and motor. You just about have space with a gate nanohard so the perun should work as well. The micro connector is also nice but not essential. When your done if you get the wires all nice and reasonably tidy you should be able to fit it all in front of the backplate. This is it done with an Xcoretech XET304u but I've done a gate nanohard in exactly the same way. Because the perun AB++ is a single wire trigger you will have to tap into the red main wire as well. If you are going with a deans split then you can solder that wire to the mosfet side of the deans (not the motor side). You want it on the mosfet side so when you work on the gearbox you can completely remove the motor and move it out of the way. Give me 10 mins I'll edit an image of the deans location. Here you go. Purple crosses are where the deans goes for the motor connections - Cut those wires where you need them the image is not to scale. The green are the trigger wires. You have to add a new wire to the back of the motor connection deans for the trigger. Again not to scale so pick a sensible length for those wires!

You might have a warped shaft on the spur gear. If you lightly clamp the spur in a drill by the bit that goes in the bushing. Then let the drill spin but only slowly you should be able to see if the shaft is warped or not. If it is send the gears back manufacturing defects happen.

Splitting an AUG doesn't mean splitting the plastic parts. It just means taking the upper off the lower. There's a takedown pin on the lower that when pushed to the side lets the upper just slide off. Be careful tho as if you push the pin too far it'll fall out and they can be a fiddle to get back in. There's a flat spring with the pin that sits in the same hole, so if it does fall out make sure you don't loose the spring! The was a long gone South African forum that had all the shimming information and a template. They were using a steel beer can cut in a specific way so it covers the space at the top of the magwell meaning the stray BB's drop out rather than go into the gun. I didn't save the template and never made one. My own solution was just to make sure my mag changes are quick enough that it doesn't happen so often. It's cause because the last couple of bb's roll out over the top of the mag and there's enough space for them to go into the body. If you wanted to make a shim/guard to stop it then it shouldn't be too difficult if you look at the magwell and the holes, Just be warned the trigger linkage goes through that area as well so you have to account for that, and the magwell plate is designed to move. It moves backwards when you take out the gearbox, and it self aligns when you insert a mag. So you can't shim tight to the feed nozzle. When you slide the upper onto the lower there's a checklist of sorts. The pin needs to be in the open position. The cocking handle wants to be forwards. Inspect the hop and make sure the extra little plastic bit on the back is in place. That little black plastic bit is a vital spacer, without it the gun won't work and you'll need a complete hop unit to get a replacement. Slide the upper onto the lower, And make sure it goes on smooth. You should be able to feel the hop touch the air nozzle, and the last 3-5mm of the seating should be a little springy as the hop/barrel spring take up slack. Make sure the front pin fully engages and then push the body pin into the locked position. When locked the gun should have no gaps, and the body pin should be holding itself in place. I need to see the magwell as it may be damaged. If the gun is forced together it's often the front of the magwell upper that breaks, Same if you shim the gearbox forwards. Depending on the break it may outright kill the gun if you damage the feed tube as well. Sometimes you can get lucky and have it break but the feed tube still sits correctly or doesn't get lost/damaged. There are some almost impossible to find aug parts. Most of the parts can be bought - but the trigger group, feed tube, and gearbox trigger are non existent as spares.

Hey, I need to know more about what you have done to the gun since you got it. Upgrades - What have you taken to bits, Did you try to rebuild the hop, Anything like that. This is because I think you have a spacing issue with the gearbox or hop that is stopping the upper seating correctly, And I can't help if I don't know what's been done to it. If you have rebuilt the hop, Shimmed the inner barrel ect then I need pictures of that. I also need pictures of the inside of the magwell and the front of the gearbox. The amount of damage to the lower is pretty bad, I've had AUG's for years and never seen anything like it. The only way I can see that happening is user error. It looks to have enough meat left on it that it should still work if the cause can be found for the body not sitting right. BB's getting into the body with an AUG is perfectly normal, There are some solutions to it involving padding/shimming out the magwell, but once you get the hang of the mag changes they happen less often anyway. To get the BB's out you split the gun and invert it whist shaking. It's one of those things you just have to live with on the platform.

Yup perfectly normal. Longer barrels are always faster. And yes a slightly heavier spring is the normal way to counter this. It's why airsoft spring ratings are more like guidelines. Barrel length of the gun, Gearbox compression, Airseal ect all change the FPS.

Understandable. Modding the scope is something I didn't want to do to mine either. I have the Hensoldt Model 1. It's similar to the Z24 but it doesn't have the illuminated reticle option and see through reticle, but it does have the focus adjuster. I did eventually make some slight modifications to my G3 and the claw mount to make it mount easier (I took a fine file to the top of the receiver to create flatter mounting points and the same on the claw mount I just took a whisker off, not enough that it couldn't still work on a real gun with the internal adjustment). I also have an untouched A.R.M.S #7 mount that I got with my scope so I have other options as well. It's still a tight fit, but I don't have to crank it down. Figured that there was no harm done because the claw mounts are easy to find online, the chances of me selling the gun are pretty much none existent. I probably wouldn't be able to find another decent wood kit as Zib can no longer get them.

How easy is the claw mount to install? If it's stiff and you are decent/careful with a file it is possible to remove a small amount of back seat of the mount point. It'll make it easier to install and will also pull the aim point up at the same time.

What ammo weight were you shooting? If you were shooting 0.2g try with 0.28 or 0.3g first. It might just pull the aim point down a little. If that doesn't solve it then you can buy shim washers. Far easier than modifying the internals. But that would depend on if you are running the claw mount or a rings system. The claw mount you want shim washers, If you are using rings then you run into all sorts of issues and may need to grind the back ring slightly with a lapping/sighting tool. You might also find that switching the ring positions front to back, and or turning them can have an effect on the aimpoint depending on what sort of quality the rings are.

First thing I'd probably look at would be the sector shimming and the tappet plate. If the sector is a little high and the tappet is catching on the shims/bearing you end up with the tappet not going fully forwards or been slow, this in turn can cause FPS issues. It's also not enough to just test it in a neutral gearbox position. You need the piston to be fully tensioned as it will pull the sector to the side and take up slop in the bearings. This might just be giving the tappet a little nip.

Could be the box mag causing the issues. Disconnect the trigger to mag wire and test. If it clears it up a diode on the trigger to mag wire in the correct orientation may stop the issue. I'm suspecting the ASR looks for a constant + signal from the trigger. But the mag and more importantly the motor on the mag have a circuit that allows the commutation of the motor to get seen by the ASR, Effectively letting it see a pulsing ADC waveform. A diode will allow the trigger + to go to the mag, but will also stop any mag - getting back up to the ASR. It's worth a shot just to clip that wire and run a few hundred BB's with the mag on manual wind. If it works then trying a diode could be the solution, but equally it would depend on the ASR even with a diode it may still generate issues. Also don't worry about soldering. The car market produces 10 amp diodes for isolating dash lamps in cars/motorbikes where you want one lamp for 2 different circuits. Something like this with spade connectors already on will work as well as a soldered solution. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10A-50V-In-Line-Diode-12V-14V-24V-36V-10-A-AMP-10AMP-12-14-24-36-50-V-VOLT-/400689716228

The only thing I can think that might help this is to expand the holes on the piston head. Doing this should allow the piston head to suck air faster and with less barrel resistance on the draw. It might also be worth using a marginally oversized piston o-ring that rides the walls of the cylinder a bit harder, You'll wear that ring out faster, but it should provide a quicker airseal as well. Typically an AEG piston o-ring is 19x2.5mm (24mm) but moving up to a 19.5x2.5 (24.5mmm) should give better high speed compression. There might be an issue with that oversized o-ring however. If it slows the piston too much it's going to cause PME. I've never built a 40rps gun and don't know anyone that uses one, so take the o-ring advice as an idea to perhaps try, and not a this is going to work statement. I use oversized rings in all my own guns but 25rps is about as fast as they go.

I can't comment about the drilling, I don't know the platform. But for the actual drilling if you needed to do it - M35 cobalt drill bits. You can get them in machine mart for about £25 for a set. Use the clutch on the drill rather than drill mode because they snap like carrots due to been a very hard steel and you need to keep the drill bit in the same orientation for the same reason ( no wiggling about). That been said they drill just about every common metal including 316 stainless. The set I have is used daily at work and they pay for themself if you can use them without snapping them. Far better than HSS or coated drills. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht383-19pce-cobalt-steel-drill-bit-se/

If you want to file the slide I can recommend the Tamiya 3000 grit sanding sponge. It's a fine abrasive on a tough but flexible sponge. You can work it in a lot of different ways round a slide to just knock off and polish up without worrying about removing or scuffing the surfaces. https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-sanding-sponge-sheet-3000-grit/

The black deployment bag is a good investment. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174671408442?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 It's big enough to fit a normal gun inside (long guns won't fit), as well as all your kit. For the money you won't find a better bag. It also means you can take clean clothes and change before you head home, so you are dry, warm, and not filling the car with mud. It also gives you a place to keep everything together when you store it at home. I have a couple of those bags and they get a lot of use.

Mesh is a double edged sword. If you sweat a fair bit then there really isn't any other option that works as well, without spending a fair chunk of change. You see mesh doesn't fog at all with your sweat. The downside to mesh is it can and does let parts of BB through if the bb hits and shatters. A lot of players still use it, and it does work, but you wear it knowing you may get bits in the eye eventually... It kind of the same with choosing not to wear lower face protection, It's more conformable without it, but at the same time you may need a trip to the dentist if a stray bb knocks out a tooth. Shooting glasses can be worse than mesh, they often have large openings at the sides, top and bottom. Goggles or a well fitted mask are better options. The problem there is goggles and masks love to fill with sweat, they fog up, and they can be hotter to wear. Because this is an open forum, most people will advise against mesh, but that doesn't mean they don't own and use it, they just use it knowing the risks. Personally I have several pairs of eye protection because I suffer with stupidly long eye lashes, So some of the close fitting types hurt over a days play, I use mesh and goggles. with a tendency towards goggles until I'm sweating too much to see, The colder it is the less this is a problem. For goggles have a look in screwfix there's a few offerings from Bolle, Dewalt, Uvex, ect that are more than up to the task for under £20, For Mesh I have a few sets as well but I favour a small black pair that seem to have a little more foam padding so they sit off the face a little more.

High caps are easy. You can fill directly from a bottle of BB's as they have a trap door loading method. They rattle a bit, You have to wind them on. But essentially on the field 1 high cap and a bottle of BB's stuffed in a pocket is more ammo than most could use in a day, and you can fill up in 1 minute without any other tools. Easy to have 500 bb's loaded and be carrying 3000. Mid caps are a bit more involved. You have a bit more investment in the magazines because you will own more of them. You will also need some way to carry those mags. Say you have 5 mags, then you are going to need at least 4 pouches, or 2 double pouches, a webbing kit, vest or bag, And if it's a full day of play you may also need to have your bottle of BB's and a loader. 5x100 is still only 500bb's. If you are carrying a bottle you'll want a pouch or bag for that and the speed loader. The reward for midcaps is you don't have to wind the mag. So the gun is always ready until the ammo is out. You don't rattle as much, and you get far more mag swaps in a game over high caps, without it been a constant thing like with low caps. You'll have a bit more downtime to reload those mags, and a decent speed loader can save a lot of frustration when you have 5 mags to sort between games, or whilst your been covered mid game. Low caps are even more involved, whilst you can get away with 5 mags, you probably won't be comfortable with that unless you are an established player. 5x30 is only 150bb's. and 10x30 is only 300. If you are using low caps there's a good chance you are either in a mill sim, or play in a very frugal fashion with ammo, As you adapt to the lower ammo count and probably won't be carrying more ammo (or the games will be ammo limited). It's best to avoid low cap mags unless you want that realism. For me I tend to run mid caps, but will often have an empty high cap on the webbing and a bottle of bb's either on my kit, or on a mates kit. So if things start to heat up there is a fast reload option available, It's pretty rare I push hard enough to need that high cap in assault but for defence it can be useful.

There is no best boot. Only the boot that works best for your shape of foot. Altberg are one of the current issued boots to the military. You can find them surplus for about £50. I own 2 pairs of these bought as grade 1 surplus. My mother saw them and started asking questions because her walking boots gave her black toenails (don't ask). So we took a trip out to the Alberg factory last year and got her a new pair... Not cheap (£200ish). But they have performed perfectly, Comfortable, warm, dry. And more importantly they haven't caused any feet issues for her. My Aunt and Godmother also now have a pair each! Just have a search for "altberg defender ladies" or something similar to that. For UK sites waterproof is pretty essential (defenders are waterproof without lining you just have to rub them down with some Leder-Gris wax oil once in a while). Even in summer grass tends to be damp early morning and there is nothing worse than standing in a boggy bit and having to play with wet feet. Jungle boots, and boots with composite (mesh, woven) sides are great if you know it's going to be dry or indoors.

If I still have the old claymores! Yeah looking at the postage It's exponential, Getting 12 bags adds like £80 in postage lol! Not the deal I thought I'd found then! I'll be keeping an eye on them to see if they start to distribute from the UK warehouse, as they may end up been reasonable.

Just browsing hobbyking and noticed they have increased the airsoft stuff... There's a few guns and some tactical gear on there now. I also noticed 0.25g bb's for £3.62! Just wondered if anyone had tried them. I might pick up a few bags at that price for sticking in my loaner guns. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-0-25g-precision-grade-6mm-bb-3000rds-bag.html?queryID=&objectID=42414&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products