Iceni

This might not help at all then Patrol base have the MAG mags for £40 for 4. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/patrol-base-170rd-aug-magazines-box-of-4

I'm Sure Negative airsoft mentioned the brand in that video of branding he did a few months ago. 1:10:04 Aug's typically don't need a lot of attention, but they need the right attention. It's easy to make a good one bad by not understanding how the hop/body relationship works. Gearbox wise it's 2 screws and out very easy. You can put in a mosfet without needing to open the gearbox, and I think most JG's now come with quick change springs. I can have a gearbox out faster than on any other platform as there is no motor, selector, or pistol grip to remove. Typical of any AEG if it shoots well enough leave it alone until it breaks.

If you are serious about an AUG, It's worth pointing out a few of the flaws, Especially if you have been using an M4 platform. BB's get into the body on mag changes. With a bit of practice on mag changes you can reduce this. There are options to shim the magwell but it's not needed if you are confident splitting the body. You split invert the body and they just shake out. The hop unit is good, but it's also built in a different way to an M4 hop. It has to move on the screws that hold the hop to the outer. It's this sprung loaded action that help lock the upper to the lower. I cut my hop rubbers down a little and put the brass ring before the C-clip, as the brass ring in the standard position at the front of the hop unit can reduce the travel of the inner barrel/hop assembly. Some parts are impossible to buy. Magwell feed nipples, the gearbox trigger mechanism, Motor cage, and the trigger linkage. Be extra careful if you take any of those parts off. The rest of the gearbox is standard V3 bar the air nozzle. Some inner barrels are too thick. The inner barrel must move in the outer barrel. If you find your after market ones don't slide in without friction and stop the sprung loaded action working then you can't use it. AUG's are noisy. Your head and ear are over the gearbox and the body of the gun acts like a resonator. You can pack the body with foam to significantly reduce this. Mags are generally pretty cheap, I've never had a mag that didn't feed correctly even the cheapo battle axe ones. The MAG branded 170rnd mid caps are the best magazine, Good capacity, a bit more expensive but worth it. Whilst the battery compartment is small you can fit a 7.4v 2200mAh in there (you sometimes have to doctor the dividing plate to get them to fit). I use these in mine. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html?___SID=U A perfectly built AUG will still have significant wobble between the upper and lower in comparison to an M4. You can fit a Mosfet in the gun on the inside of the dividing plate if you are clever with wire management.

You can modify any AUG to have the semi only position, It's done with the removal of the plastic on the safe/selector bar. I think CA and TM come with it done as standard, but I'm a bit out of the loop now as I've not been keeping track over Covid. As for the TM HC, It's a nice gun, But all of the bonuses are in the gearbox. Absolutely nothing is externally different on them from a JG. A Bog standard JG A1/A2 with a couple of upgrades (Gears 13:1, Motor HT, Shimming, New hop rubber) can do what the TM does for half the price. The triggers can be greased and the springs stretched to make the trigger slightly better but it's a big linkage to move so it's never going to be amazing. Don't bother with the A3/A4 variants the front RIS is really heavy and makes them a lot harder to use all day.

My buddy has an Army Armament L85 with a real steel deac SUSAT (tritium rod removed). Fits without any issues. His cost a small fortune I think and came from one of the mil surp shops about 15 years ago. You still see them pop up from time to time but the price has gone up pretty steeply on the real units. There's one on gunstar atm with case and the trimmings for £750. https://www.gunstar.co.uk/small-arms-transit-cased-2005-dated-l9a1-susat-4-x-magnifica/Accessories/1319620

I can't comment about the drilling, I don't know the platform. But for the actual drilling if you needed to do it - M35 cobalt drill bits. You can get them in machine mart for about £25 for a set. Use the clutch on the drill rather than drill mode because they snap like carrots due to been a very hard steel and you need to keep the drill bit in the same orientation for the same reason ( no wiggling about). That been said they drill just about every common metal including 316 stainless. The set I have is used daily at work and they pay for themself if you can use them without snapping them. Far better than HSS or coated drills. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht383-19pce-cobalt-steel-drill-bit-se/

If you want to file the slide I can recommend the Tamiya 3000 grit sanding sponge. It's a fine abrasive on a tough but flexible sponge. You can work it in a lot of different ways round a slide to just knock off and polish up without worrying about removing or scuffing the surfaces. https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-sanding-sponge-sheet-3000-grit/

I went the other way and got X-plane 11. With the high res Europe mesh pack installed it's superb. I've been flying ultralights and small planes in and about the places I've lived. Whilst it doesn't render everything perfectly, it does do a very good job of road layouts. Meaning it's more than possible to navigate by road.

How are you finding it? You went all quiet after buying it!

I absolutely love the fact all your main rifles are of older designs. G3A3 slim, M16A2, M4A1. Proper guns

That's not weathered. All you have there is pre-shade. Grey primer, White highlights. Clearcoat - satin finish. Mig streaker brushes - Green grey grime and Streaking dust. Base colour - mig XB518 mixed 20 drops transparator, 20 drops acrylic thinner, 15 drops paint. Airbrushed in 3 layers. A few spots of dark tracks on the darkest pre shade. Weathering comes after the detail pick, and decals.

Latest one. This is the base coat done. Just need to do the details and add decals. Takom T55 AM2B

G&G GR300 Pro Shorty. It's very old and none of the trades were etched (just screen printed). Trust me these are the magneseum cast lower and upper. Solid stock rather than the wire one, I have the wire one in a drawer, I just don't like the weight when the battery is in the front.

I use mine an awful lot. Not just for block colour either. There are ways to shade a model using just black and white before you put the final colour on. It's all about layer thickness. You put a thin layer over that B&W layer but only just enough. The final outcome is a model with a tonal shift through the model. For the actual airbrush, you can spend a lot or a little. The more expensive ones are not always the best to look at. My go-to modelling airbrush is either a Mig ammo aircobra (£100+ expensive). Or an EXPO AB900 (£40). The AB900 can do everything the Mig brush can. It's just not as refined and struggles on very fine lines. It's normally the first brush I will grab as it's the one I allow to be kicking about on top of the desk. https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/AB800-Easy-Clean-Airbrush-with-Small-2ml-Colour-Cup-AB900.html For a compressor I have several. I used for a very long time one of the cheap nail art compressors. They work but will only allow about 15-20 psi in continuous operation. The next stage up from that are £60-100 and are generally called airbrush compressors. They tend to have small tanks and can be set to various pressure outputs. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS-186-Compressor-Tank-Nail-Tatoo-Art-Spray-Gun-Complete-Airbrush-Kit-INCD-VAT/273503213852?epid=25031180469&hash=item3fae0fd91c:g:f9MAAOSw8MZbvs7q&frcectupt=true Because they come with a couple of brushes as well they represent everything you need. Don't expect the brushes to be decent tho. Spending that £40 on the expo one is a good basic investment. The final stage of compressors is getting something more professional. I have one of these. It doesn't offer anything over the Ebay kit other than the ability to produce air faster and quieter. You never need one of these, having one is a luxury not a requirement. Your paint will govern the space you need. Water-based acrylics need nothing special. Spraying using a box on your knee or desk is perfectly fine. You won't get much overspray, and the box will catch it. Enamels and oil-based stuff you will need ventilation. The fumes build up, and you will need a mask as well. Dual action airbrushes are very good on paint use, and the chances of getting a lot of oversprays are minimal. Decent paint is key to the whole thing working well. MIG AMMo and Vallejo model air are good starter paints to use. Some airbrush flow improver and liquid airbrush cleaner are also worthwhile. Vallejo are decent for these. Once you have a few paints and some cleaner you can start to play about with the setup. Masking a model is easy, but you can also mount the masks on balls of masking tape to get feathered edges on the camo effects. Watch loads of videos. MIG videos are very good to learn basics from.

Those ASG CNC motors run very cool. I've been running the 35K version for quite some time now and it replaced the slower SHS HS, that ran very hot. Only run 18:1 7.4v so 22 ish rps. Nothing crazy. It's not for a DSG setup tho... It would eat itself in seconds! Nice to have you post! It's been a while!

Just a touch hot then lol! 1.5J!! that's what almost 400fps on a 0.2. 309 is almost a perfect cut. Polarity been wrong on the wires is something I wasn't expecting! Was that on the motor or the connector? It just shows poor QC. It's basic things like this that china guns constantly get wrong and it's a shame because the product is essentially right. Body looks perfect. So it came with the 3 position selector rather than the standard one. That's good for you, would have been nice if CA had managed to get hold of them as well for @FreeFrag.UK But he spent twice as much and pretty much only got a mosfet and a fancy plate on the gearbox divide, so I still stand by the JG/APS budget guns been the correct path into the AUG. You still got the QC gearbox, Wasn't expecting that. Does it have bearings as well then?

lol, nope. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M16_rifle

Always thought A2 and A3 were physically identical. The only difference was burst fire on A2 to full auto on the A3. Because the A3 uses the A1 trigger setup. It's the A4 where the rail appears.

Nice M16A3, I keep looking at A1's but it's going to be some time before I get one. I have a few too many unused guns as it is!

You'll have to give me a couple of days to get pictures together but yeah no problem.

You got exactly the right gun for the look you want. The JG would of done the job visually as well, but I think you made the right choice overall with the CA. Same deal applies, any issues or you want advice just start up a thread and you can have what I know. I think you will find it a trouble free gun, and very comfortable. One thing you might want is the modification to the safe bar for a single shot only position. It's a small mod that will add a 3rd position. Safe, Semi only, Semi + full auto. Some sites will want to see some trigger control before they let you use it in semi only games without the mod. Having the mod done means it's impossible to go full auto in those games. And it costs nothing to make the modification. Just a couple of files and a sharp knife to remove a cube of plastic.

@Druid799 Well done I know you like to run a gun without upgrades, but If you ever want advice on what to upgrade in it just tag me Fire support have the king arms 110rnd mid cap boxes in stock. I think they work out at about £7.50 each. Are you getting it Fetted at GFC, They install them for free when you buy a gun and fet together and add the relevant service option. I'm also loving the fact it's a hybrid. A1 para upper but with the commando lower rail. I'm expecting you to do a full review when you've had it a few weeks! Shapeways do a conversion for that style of lower rail to reduce the rail length. It replaces the long rail with a more lightweight 3 slot design. https://www.shapeways.com/product/LU48DGXN6/aug-bottom-picatinny-rail-3-slots?optionId=65356676&li=marketplace