Iceni

Don't bother looking for individual screws. Just get a pack of assorted sizes in stainless. You have them then for all other projects as well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Assortment-Stainless-Hexagonal-Countersunk-Fastener/dp/B0933KXYZ4/ref=sr_1_21?crid=1M4KF2N6BH36&dchild=1&keywords=small+screws+assortment&qid=1634488363&s=diy&sr=1-21

This might not help at all then Patrol base have the MAG mags for £40 for 4. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/patrol-base-170rd-aug-magazines-box-of-4

I'm Sure Negative airsoft mentioned the brand in that video of branding he did a few months ago. 1:10:04 Aug's typically don't need a lot of attention, but they need the right attention. It's easy to make a good one bad by not understanding how the hop/body relationship works. Gearbox wise it's 2 screws and out very easy. You can put in a mosfet without needing to open the gearbox, and I think most JG's now come with quick change springs. I can have a gearbox out faster than on any other platform as there is no motor, selector, or pistol grip to remove. Typical of any AEG if it shoots well enough leave it alone until it breaks.

If you are serious about an AUG, It's worth pointing out a few of the flaws, Especially if you have been using an M4 platform. BB's get into the body on mag changes. With a bit of practice on mag changes you can reduce this. There are options to shim the magwell but it's not needed if you are confident splitting the body. You split invert the body and they just shake out. The hop unit is good, but it's also built in a different way to an M4 hop. It has to move on the screws that hold the hop to the outer. It's this sprung loaded action that help lock the upper to the lower. I cut my hop rubbers down a little and put the brass ring before the C-clip, as the brass ring in the standard position at the front of the hop unit can reduce the travel of the inner barrel/hop assembly. Some parts are impossible to buy. Magwell feed nipples, the gearbox trigger mechanism, Motor cage, and the trigger linkage. Be extra careful if you take any of those parts off. The rest of the gearbox is standard V3 bar the air nozzle. Some inner barrels are too thick. The inner barrel must move in the outer barrel. If you find your after market ones don't slide in without friction and stop the sprung loaded action working then you can't use it. AUG's are noisy. Your head and ear are over the gearbox and the body of the gun acts like a resonator. You can pack the body with foam to significantly reduce this. Mags are generally pretty cheap, I've never had a mag that didn't feed correctly even the cheapo battle axe ones. The MAG branded 170rnd mid caps are the best magazine, Good capacity, a bit more expensive but worth it. Whilst the battery compartment is small you can fit a 7.4v 2200mAh in there (you sometimes have to doctor the dividing plate to get them to fit). I use these in mine. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html?___SID=U A perfectly built AUG will still have significant wobble between the upper and lower in comparison to an M4. You can fit a Mosfet in the gun on the inside of the dividing plate if you are clever with wire management.

You can modify any AUG to have the semi only position, It's done with the removal of the plastic on the safe/selector bar. I think CA and TM come with it done as standard, but I'm a bit out of the loop now as I've not been keeping track over Covid. As for the TM HC, It's a nice gun, But all of the bonuses are in the gearbox. Absolutely nothing is externally different on them from a JG. A Bog standard JG A1/A2 with a couple of upgrades (Gears 13:1, Motor HT, Shimming, New hop rubber) can do what the TM does for half the price. The triggers can be greased and the springs stretched to make the trigger slightly better but it's a big linkage to move so it's never going to be amazing. Don't bother with the A3/A4 variants the front RIS is really heavy and makes them a lot harder to use all day.

My buddy has an Army Armament L85 with a real steel deac SUSAT (tritium rod removed). Fits without any issues. His cost a small fortune I think and came from one of the mil surp shops about 15 years ago. You still see them pop up from time to time but the price has gone up pretty steeply on the real units. There's one on gunstar atm with case and the trimmings for £750. https://www.gunstar.co.uk/small-arms-transit-cased-2005-dated-l9a1-susat-4-x-magnifica/Accessories/1319620

Probably not, unless you stuck a huge battery in it like a 6S. Your original contacts look decent TBF Just the wires are a little chewed in places. The reason it probably wasn't shooting is the Selector plate. I linked to that part in the other thread you started without all these little extra nuggets of information. There's a good chance that £5 part would of made the gun shoot again without needing anything else, but you'd already stripped the gearbox. The break on that part would mean the gun couldn't select any fire mode other than the safe position.

That's G&P not G&G. Piston and sector are factory matched, so nothing there has been modified. I'd run with them. Piston teeth are counted in a funny way, The pickup tooth is ignored, then the 1st tooth and sometimes half of the second can be missing. So your piston is a 13 tooth. The matching sector gear should have 1 tooth more than the piston in your case 14 teeth. We commonly shorten this part of the gear train on purpose for higher speed builds (yours is factor modified so it needs no work), removing 1 or 2 teeth from the pickup side of the sector gear (so it doesn't mess with the tappet timing), It's fairly typical in 13:1 gearset builds matched with a high torque motor. It's not uncommon for a well built gearbox with those modification to be able to do 25 rounds per second with a 7.4v lipo (you would need a chrono to count that). I wouldn't upgrade the gearset and motor just yet tho, get it running first, then once you have more of an idea of what you want it to do and where it is you can start to change things about. The piston looks to have very little wear. The gear train in general looks to be spot on. The wires have a few areas of damage, that could do with some work. If you can use a soldering iron then crack on and rewire - the silver wire from AK2M4 is decent. Don't forget to add connectors for the motor. If you can't solder he does a complete drop in loom with the contacts for just over £10, but it comes with a mini tamiya connector not a deans connector. You can get adapters if you can't solder or don't know someone who can and already have a deans wired battery. If you don't have a battery then get the battery to match the loom. Component shop sell airsoft batteries (airsoft tamiya connectors are wired reverse to RC cars, Deans are the correct polarity) and you can select the connector type you need. But looking at the desk burns someone in your household probably knows how to solder. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/electrical-parts/gearbox-transparent-wire-16awg-2-metres https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/trigger-switches/ec-trigger-switch-v2-rear-wired Some grease and a re-shim - New shims on AK2M4. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/bushings-shims/zci-shim-set And an M100 spring for 330fps. It's going to come out a little lower on power due to the lower tooth count on the geartrain, but I'd just go with the lower power unit you get to a skirmish and get on a chrono. It's better to be under the chrono limit and be allowed to play, than to be over and have to hire a gun. A chronograph is a good investment if you are the tinkering type. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs/zci-aeg-spring-m100 Also a selector plate to replace that broken one. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/selector-plates/rocket-selector-plate-v2 And a piston head o-ring. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/piston-head-o-ring-viton-19mm The only other thing that is worth considering would be the hop rubber and nub. There's a lot of debate over what brand and flavor are best. Personally I like them soft and preferably cheap. https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/gg-cold-resistant-hop-rubber-g-10-061-5537-p.asp I also like the Prometheus purple rubbers, A lot on here will advise the maple leaf 50deg with the proper nub, those however can be pricey. And a bottle of bb's if you are planning on shooting it. https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/asg-airsoft-polished-blaster-020g-bbs-3300-1-bottle-ammo-target-6mm-19402-35047-p.asp

Take some pictures! There's a tool when you post that allows you to attach them. Pistons in general aren't normally modified but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. It is common to have a tooth missing or even a tooth and a half missing at the pickup end of the piston, but removing teeth from the piston head end is sometimes done to make a lazy short stroke. Without seeing the rest of the gearbox we can't advise you. Take pictures of the piston rack, gears and the motor if possible. That'll at least let us know what sort of modifications have been done to the gear train. If you are wanting to spend some money on getting new parts then we can advise on that as well. Typically if you were to want to upgrade the normal upgrades would be: High torque motor (long type for M4's) Mosfet (you can get them pre wired for M4's, Either front wired [hand guard], or rear wired [stock]). Gears if needed, and a piston to suit. Bearings/bushings And O-rings for the piston head and cylinder head. A good place to start looking at parts is AK2M4. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/ Don't be tempted to buy anything yet tho as it may be cheaper just to buy a complete new gearbox with wires ect already done that can just be dropped into the gun. I've also sent you a PM.

If you have the tooling you can correct those seats with flat endmills. If you have access to a milling machine and bits then it's as simple as screwing the shell to something, clamping that to the bed. Find the centres and just do a fine feed to touch it back to square. Takes a couple of minutes with the right tools, without them it's a very difficult task to get right and If I didn't have access to a mill then I'd be looking at new shells as well. Cyma and JG also make decent V3 shells, Unlike a V2, V3's are generally a lot more robust and don't need to be anything special. Those modify ones I'm a little sceptical of. With absolutely no evidence I'd be worried about the weight reduction near the spur gear. I'd certainly be thinking about using a piston rack with a few nylon teeth rather than a full steel rack to keep a weak spot.

The fact it's rocking in the bearing without bottoming out on the shell would imply a badly seated bearing. Is it fully seated? And are the mating surfaces clean and free of marring? V3 Bushings/Bearings poke out of the shell. If it's sitting flush to the shell then you need to put something that can support the seat like the correct sized socket, then tap the bearing to be flush on the inside of the shell. There's a brief flash of the seated bearing at 7 seconds and to me it doesn't look like it's seated.

Really like that A2.

Nope, GBB rifles are something I have no interest in. I think a few people on here have them but they don't get mentioned a lot in general chat. All of my AUGS are standard electric AEG types. One of the main reasons for not wanting a GBB rifle is the cost of the magazines. Typically an AEG magazine for a common gun is going to be pretty cheap possibly less than £5. And with that you can pick mid cap 100rnd, or high cap 400-600rnd capacities. A GBB mag on the other hand can be expensive. £50+ and may have a very low BB count 50rnds would be a large capacity. Say for instance you are playing for 5 hours and will use 1000bb's. That's 2 high capacity AEG mags you can stuff one in a pocket (the other is in the gun) and cost pretty much nothing. The GBB setup well your going to want 6 mags at least 6x50 is 300 rnds. So you will need to reload all mags 3 times, It's going to cost you 5x£50 - £250, and then you will need webbing or a carrier, 5 pouches and a dump bag. So add another £100-250 to that price. GBB are absolutely fantastic, but you have to be committed to the whole system.

Do a few rental games and get your Ukara first. Have a look at what others are using, and talk to everyone. We all have very different opinions on what makes a good airsoft gun. Without Ukara you will be limited to 2 tone gun purchases, and even second hand the seller should be checking you have have a valid number. No gun is banned as far as I know, but all guns must meet the site power limit rules. It changes per site. Outdoors more often than not it's 350fps with a 0.2g bb. Indoors it can be a lot lower, but the rules are site specific, That's why it's a good idea to do a couple of rentals first. Also when you buy second hand you must be able to estimate the power the gun is shooting. If your site wants 320fps and you buy a second hand gun that shoots 350fps you won't be able to play until you spend more money getting it downgraded. A lot of retailers can offer a downgrade service if requested when you buy new, so you get the correct power level out of the box. It's also worth noting that airsoft guns have components that wear out. A second hand gun may have poor airseals or be close to component failure, You'll need a little experience to be able to judge that, It can almost be the cost of a second hand gun to have a gearbox rebuilt with new components and airseal/hop materials. So a cheap second hand gun may very well end up not been so cheap after all. On owning your own gun, If you get your Ukara then there are loads of guns between £100 and £150 that meet the demands of a new player. Going more expensive doesn't give you much more than what a basic gun can do. You might get better externals and a more refined gearbox that can shoot a little faster, but in the grand scheme of things there's very little gained in terms of gameplay by having something more expensive.

The OP makes no mention of been Gunman exclusive, You brought that into the mix.

No they don't do Coldwar at my local Gunman site. They do Camo v/s solid colours, with shooting role rules. Certainly not Coldwar. However there are/were multiple Gunman sites. https://gunmanairsoftmidlands.com/ Most of the CW games I've played were at Fireball (Bassets Pole). Where there were no such rules regarding camo. It was nice to see the CW kit, but not essential for gameplay. They still divided players by banding arms as they felt it was unreasonable to turn players away. A good portion of players made the effort so it worked pretty well. I'll concede on the SMLE, I'd seen some rifles ping up with decent kits on them the other week and didn't look into them more than a cursory glance, Turns out they had been fed into my news from an Air rifle site, not airsoft. This is the image that popped up. On the Sterling plans. When you see them it's actually not a hard gun to scratch build. I've never seen one in stock. I've seen the Blaster in stock. http://replicaplans.com/SterlingSMG.html

Depends on what it needs. If you know what's missing make a list, Otherwise take some pictures and explain what you think is missing. I'll warn you tho not all aug parts are easy to get hold of.

The guns for Brit kit are the hardest part. There's a set of blueprints for the Sterling on the net, You need to be able to weld and bend some sheet metal to make it. But most of the gun is a single section of pipe with holes and slots in the correct place. My shooting partner has been toying with the idea of making one for a few years, but so far nothing has come of it. SLR wise, your not going to find a KA one for a reasonable price unless they do a rerun of the old model. There's always rumours about this happening but so far nothing has been seen. It is possible to convert a metric fal, but again you will struggle to get the correct body kit. My personal pick for Brit kit would be the L42A1, It's pretty much a modified Lee Enfield, but it saw active service from the 70's to the Gulf war. It shouldn't be a difficult task to modify an SMLE to have a decent approximate silhouette. Outside of that looking at other nations. AK's are pretty much available for the whole period in a lot of styles, Short of the RIS variants no one will really care. Same goes for kit. There are no real rules for people with AK's in cold war games. The Soviets have some nice gear, a lot will just opt for chicom or terrorist kit. G3's are also pretty easy to get. And since the Cold war ended in 1991, and Flecktarn was issued into trials in the 1980's and had it's proper launch in 1990 with the German reunification. If you want the older look then the olive drab moleskin German uniform with the G3 was in service for pretty much the whole of the Cold war. The G3 is the easy way to get a battle rifle since there are several good variants out there, and there is still a lot of stock for the correct running gear. It's also a universal gun that drops into a lot of other period conflicts. There's a list of the wars it's been involved with on the wiki and you can pick just about any conflict from the 1960's right up to now, And it'll drop into axis or allies depending on what kit you are running with it. Run it with just a OD parka and claim to be a communist partisan, or run in uniform and be an allies force.

There's a few things I would want to check there. There's a potential break on the + at the bottom of the gearbox. Personally I would rewire it because of the insulation damage, You might be able to get away with it, In my head that would be a potential hot spot in the wire, and a good enough reason for a full rewire. If you are no good with a soldering iron then you might want to find someone that is. The contacts look the be black at the tip. This could cause issues with the contacts if it's insulating it. 20 seconds with some 2000 grit wet and dry will get it back to rights. The contact spring doesn't look to be on correctly. It needs to be fully over the peg at the top of the contact. Did it have a void if removed sticker on the gearbox. If so you've just cost yourself some money, If it came DOA then you should have sent it back for a warranty repair. Now you have opened it there will be a few witness marks and you may have voided that warranty.

Do the mounting screws have shoulders? (An unthreaded part). It might be as simple as the shoulders are a little too long and it's locking onto the other side of the mount but the screw itself is preventing the mount from nipping up. Unfortunately there is no standard for mounting screws. So you will have to work out what the screw are (length and pitch, and also metric or imperial) then get replacements without shoulder or a shallower shoulder. If you have branded mounts it'll be pretty easy as you can probably email the company that made them. If it's Ebay specials then have a look on your other mounts and just be very gentle if you find something that looks right making sure it mates correctly and doesn't bind up a few threads in. You can get scope rings cheap enough and there are a few open designs that should solve the issue as well as they can compress a little more that standard ones. https://www.ant-supplies.uk/scope-ring-mounts/weaver-open-scope-mounts.html Or you can get vertical split ones and remove some metal at the bottom split if needed. https://www.ant-supplies.uk/scope-ring-mounts/weaver-scope-rings-vertical-split.html

It's what forums are for, If you can't have a discussion then there's no point. If anything is to be taken away from this it's that I shouldn't go for a shower halfway through editing a post that was posted then moved directly to an edit window. You only commented on what was visible at the time you posted. It's my bad. It's been bugging me all day Edit: In a motor with no load BEMF does limit the speed. As the motor gets faster, you generate more BEMF, This causes the EMF and current to the motor to drop, but the speed will remain constant. In effect it acts to govern the motor. The heat aspect comes from a motor under load. Because you are running a loaded motor the speed the motor will get to will never be high enough for the BEMF to totally govern the motor speed. It's always going to be trying to speed up. The effect of that is the motor reaches an equilibrium that isn't optimal, Less BEMF than could be generated and thus the lack of BEMF means the motor is always going to end up drawing more current. Yes you will see a current drop once the motor gets to that equilibrium, but the motor is always going to be trying to go faster. The question can be asked in a different way. Can a motor under load ever reach it's maximum theoretical speed, And what are the consequences to heat generation as load increases and speed decreases? It's practical application V/S theoretical. It's why BEMF is not important. The motor is loaded and the speed of the motor is going to be dragged down by mechanical action, In that situation BEMF generation is lower possibly to the point where you will see near supply voltage over the motor.

I am an habitual editor, If I post something I'm generally moving things about for a good 30 minutes. Hell I was still editing the one from yesterday up to about an hour ago! I'm still not happy with some of the wording. I'd probably edit that to say allows rather than gives. But I'll leave it be since it got commented on! I've been caught by it before, Brain engages I write and post then rethink and rethink it. I've caught others out who do it as well. It's part of been on a forum.

Incorrect but also correct. The voltage allows the current to charge the coil to an energy potential. This is why current always lags voltage in inducted circuits. Without the voltage you can't get the amps in place, but you can still over amp a motor that is running at a lower voltage by adding load. The added amps in that case are not going to make the motor faster as the motor is trying to work harder. Try to explain that voltage doesn't really do anything, but at the same time it's controlling your motor speed, but what you really want is amps, but not an overload of amps due to load, is frankly a little arse about face... It's easier just to say volts = more force, directly of not. If you re-read what I wrote you'll see there's no reason given as to why more volts give a stronger magnetic field, It's enough to know they do, and not get into the fact a higher voltage allows the current to flow faster and more freely. It's not needed. I did however point to both laws that govern this, so the op can go a delve into it as their leisure, nothing was hidden. It's basic AC motors physics. And before you say but our motors are DC... No they commutate. Look at partially reactive loads https://learn.openenergymonitor.org/electricity-monitoring/ac-power-theory/introduction It's hard to say adding more amps will speed up the motor.... It won't. Adding more volts will. You can limit a motor with both volts and amps to control the speed, but this isn't about control, we want max effect. Back EMF isn't really a thing that needs much note. It exists, it limits the motors top speed, and causes heat.

Trouble there is your looking at W. W is a static measurement for energy consumption. The measurement you need is EMF - Electro motive force. Faraday's law of induction. EMF is voltage. More voltage is more RPM, because more voltage gives a stronger magnetic field in the windings. More magnetism means more force pushing against the case magnets. More force is more speed in this instance. With no load V will always = a set RPM due to the EMF. :: A 7.4v can never equal an 11.1 for speed on the same motor. More Current (Amps) means more torque. Torque is the work you can do as in energy. So more A gives more energy, As a static measurement you can represent that as W or you can represent it as W/second - Joules. Lenz's law. Current is important because if you can't do enough work to make your object move then the motors tries to draw more and more A. Hence why fuses are Amp rated. It's also why an under-rated battery will fry, Your motor asks for more and bullies the battery for it to the point of damaging the chemicals - They effectively boil and break down. The heat generated by this increases the resistance of the battery, This acts as a potential divider and drops the voltage as a component of that effect. You mentioned you were getting better performance with higher Amp batteries. Well did you consider that both the load on the motor, and the Amps play a part. If the motor is overloaded due to a big spring or resistances then a battery that can supply more Amps is going to give a performance boost. If you start to see this then either the lower performing battery is overloaded, Or the load is so great that the bigger battery with more amps is allowing the motor to overload, Either way there is an imbalance and neither situation are good places to be at. In airsoft your V is pretty much regulated. Unless you made a voltage control circuit, And I've never seen one of those implemented, we just use whatever the battery has. C is just a multiplier. It doesn't do anything by itself. And isn't a figure where higher is always better, You always have to work out the final value. If anything C is a reasonable representation of the battery chemistry, and the ability of that chemistry to charge and discharge. 1000mAh 30C = 30 Amps 1500mAh 20C = 30 Amps 2000mAh 15C = 30 Amps 3000mAh 10C = 30 Amps Who knows. Without the capacity you can't make any assumptions. All you can say is the 11.1v will want to spin the motor faster with no load. It's one of those questions that looks right, but it's actually just showing a lack of understanding. If you are wanting to pick a decent motor combination for an AEG it's easier just to ask. A question like - I want to make my gun shoot faster -- It's completely stock --- It's this model ---- What upgrades will give me better ROF or a ROF of 25 RPS? You'd get a far better set of answers, Because more than a few of us have already spent the money on motors, batteries and gear sets, and will share information freely.

How many teeth on the sector? 15 or 16. I'm wondering if the delayer chip could do with a little shave. If you can just drop in a picture of just the sector with the last rack tooth at 12 o clock and the delayer in place. I might be wrong (often am), but that chip looks like it might just be big enough to be still holding onto the tappet a little as the piston fires. There's also sometimes the inverse of that issue where the delayer opens the tappet a little too soon and causes a weaker shot. If you have a spare smaller delay chip you could try that, or Just to test try shooting in single shot without any delay chip installed just to see if it affects the FPS. If the FPS goes right back up then at least you have your culprit.