Iceni

If you are used to target shooting, airsoft probably isn't for you. If you are happy with how your spring airsoft gun is working and shooting then this post doesn't really apply - and I'll add a bit right at the bottom for decent two tone AEG's. You should understand the mechanics of pellet flight - and how hold over/under works depending on range. Well airsoft is that on steroids, The flight of our BB's is loopy and we aim to hit man sized targets at range (40m). If you think that you will get groupings that are controllable then think again. Typically a pistol at 20 meters should be hitting a 12" target - note that is hitting and a few inches of spread at that range would be considered normal. I'm quite lucky that my local range allows airsoft and air rifles, and I can tell you without exception every air rifle shooter that has shot my airsoft gear has laughed at how inaccurate they are. They all get in on the sights and aim for the small spinners at 20m and without fail they miss by a mile. The guns look good, but they have no accuracy. It's made all the more amusing as my air rifle is actually pretty well setup - been a Bowkett blueprinted bsa S10. Airsoft has other advantages. The BB's are shot at around 1 joule (12ft,lb is about 16 Joules and 6 ft,lb 8 Joules). So it is a weak low powered shot that for the most part isn't going to do any damage. It can still pepper soft walls, and we wear eye protection as we shoot at each other with them. The guns are quiet, but a pcp with a shroud is 100% quieter. Airsoft ammo is cheap 3000 rounds is about £8. Compared to 500 .177 pellets at £10, or 500 .22 pellets at £14. Regular (non bio) bb's don't typically degrade in storage, and out guns are allowed to have semi auto and full auto modes, fed from magazines. Typically with either gas in the mag as a Co2 bulb or propane lighter gas, Or driven by a motor and battery in the case of automatic electric pistols (AEP) or automatic electric guns (AEG). Our guns are allowed to look realistic - but the cost of that is unless you have defence for purchasing an airsoft gun (Ukara) then you are limited to high visibility coloured guns called two tones. To get Ukara you have to be a member of an airsoft skirmish site, and play 3 games over at least 2 months, After that they issue a number so you can buy without two tone. Unfortunately there is no way around this, FAC, Shotgun licences do not migrate. Once you have the guns there is no other ownership requirement other than not alarming the public with them as they look real and the police will treat them as real if they get called out - until they can be proven safe. Personally if i wanted to 10m backyard plink I would consider a bell target rifle. It's a sport that is often done indoors in pub backrooms. The guns are accurate, and the bell targets are fun to shoot at. You might also find a local league that runs. You should be able to find 6ft/lb springers but it might take a few calls to RFD's to track them down or have a 12ft/lb one downgraded. http://www.belltarget.com/ Right - if you are happy with that springer airsoft gun then you might want to have a look at something like a Cyma AK or a G&G M4. The G&G doesn't come with a battery or charger - you need to look out for that with airsoft. Typically a battery is less than £10 and a cheap charger is going to be £15 but those cheap chargers are typically frowned upon and most people advise a smart charger like the skyrc B6AC that retails for about £40 - just be aware there are a lot of fakes out there, I think hobbyking sell genuine ones just make sure you get the correct plug type (uk). Also beware that Airsoft batteries on the hobbyking site are in lifestyle>airsoft. We have a different polarity to remote control cars. https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/cyma-cm522u-ak47-with-folding-stock-in-blue.html https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/g-and-g-armament-combat-machine-cm16-carbine?pv=5072

Some sites even go so far as to have a ban on running from grenades. So if one gets thrown at you - You take it. It stops people trying to turn and run, potentially causing accidents both to themselves and others. At the end of the day that person has just spend like £3 to kill you. If someone chucked a chocolate bar at me, I think the marshal would be getting it, And I'd be expecting him to share.

You call surrender/bang and they don't call hit, then you shoot. Simples. The call is a courtesy, But if it's not taken with the call of hit then it's still game on. In her case, she didn't call hit, therefore he didn't kill her. The call of surrender/bang is not the same as a knife kill, A tap with a rubber knife is a hit. Every site has a slightly different take on the rule, I've never used it, and tend to shoot for the knackers instinctively.

Yes Please. I could never stretch to an MGC one.

That would depend on your site. The one I normally play at has a segmented safe zone. The inside of the building and back into the car parks are no fire at all. Once you go into the second part of the safe area you can shoot, but only if stood on the edge of the zone and are shooting outwards, Allowing you to chrono, and set up sights pre-game. When you come in after shooting the coral at the start of the safe zone is where you pull your mag fire off the last few BB's and show the magwell for inspection. It's still called the safe zone at that site, and you are never allowed to shoot towards it or through it. I suppose you could call it a staging area. Other sites I've been to have had similar setups, with safe zone ranges and chrono setups, Where you are inside the safe zone but also allowed to shoot. Either way it's fairly normal to have somewhere you can shoot that is not in the game zone, allowing a mag dump before chrono. Lol.

Old blackout curtains. If you can find the double lined velvet ones they should be heavy enough not to move a lot, and with a dense ruffle I doubt a bb will even make them move. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fabulous-1970s-Vintage-Curtains-Brown-Velvet-Velour-Retro-210-drop-228-width/254912494297?hash=item3b59f7fad9%3Ag%3A0fQAAOSwLEJgT2Ab&LH_Auction=1

I have a gun with the ASG 35K on 18:1 gears that double shoots on semi with 7.4v. I find it's not really an issue, As it clears up after half a mag with my setup. Typically I'll spam half a mag in the safe zone then chrono. On a battery swap you just have to be careful of going into semi only engagement ranges until you've dropped that half mag. Provided you are sensible and not at a semi only site then it's not a problem. Everyone who doesn't know just think you have a 2 rnd burst mode. So my advice is dump a mag and see where it settles. If it's still double shooting, Or you play at semi only sites then correct it. Otherwise just play it like a 2rnd burst and watch those engagements until you are confident it's depleted enough to be semi only again. A secondary advantage of this is the gun will be naturally pre-cocking once you hit that single shot semi point.

It's just maths. C is a unit - Whenever you see C it actually has a value dependant on the battery, It's not just a letter. C is worked out as the nominal discharge over 1 hour. So for 1450mAh (milliampere hour) you have 1.45A over 1 hour, therefore the value of C is 1.45. Nominal C is important. It gives you your 1 hour discharge time, but also your safe 1 hour charge time. If you have a battery capable of fast charging a 3rd multiplier for C will be given. Say 5C charge - this is the charge multiplier - not all batteries have this. 1.45 amps is the safe 1C charge rate over 1 hour. 1.45 x 5 = 7.25 amps is the safe 5C charge rate, Equally you will see a time reduction so you divide 1 hour by the charge multiplier 1/5 (x60 to convert to minutes) = 12 minutes to fully charge. 20C/50C are just multipliers of the nominal C value that show the total discharge the battery can perform. The final value changes depending on capacity. So a 1.45C 20/50C will be able to supply 1.45 x 20 = 29 amps and 1.45 x 50 = 54 amps. It's easy to fall into the trap of thinking 10/20C is worse than 20/40 but because that is just a multiplier you have to understand it's dependence capacity to give a meaningful value. 10/20C 2600mah = 26/52 amps 20/40C 1250mAh = 25/50 amps. In the above instance the 10/20C 2600mAh will run for longer, providing the same amps as the faster looking 20/40C. Equally you can use the same math to work out the time to discharge. By using division. You have 1.45Ah and are drawing 35 amps, therefore you can divide 1.45 (1hour) into 35 amps = 0.04 since hours are not decimal you then have to convert to seconds. To convert decimal hours into seconds you multiply by 3600. 1.45/35 = 0.04 0.04 x 3600 = 149 seconds = 2 minute 29 seconds. And finally the comparative C used in brackets is just a value to express what multiplier your current drain is at. It's an easy way to compare values, but equally if you have already worked out your max amps that works as an equally good comparison tool. 95 amps / 1.45 = 65.5C Voltage is largely unimportant when you are doing Amp math. Voltage acts to increase the total energy but it doesn't increase the total amperage. So a 7.4v produces less KWh's than an 11.1v but the amperage is the same. Equally you could express the value in Joules. 11.1v gives more Joules and yes it's the same unit that we express bb energy in.

Well it's not from Italy San Marino is separate. Before brexit that mattered, as you would have been liable for VAT and import on entry. Now, well it doesn't matter now as you are liable from the EU as well, In fact you probably beat the system as the parcel wasn't flagged as been from the EU!

Don't bother with brands, and marked up motors. I have several decent motors, the most expensive been the ASG ultimate cnc range, I actually have 2 of these, a 35K and a 30K. Between them the 35K performs like a high speed motor for 18:1 gears. The 30K performs more like a balanced motor with a lot of torque. Both give 24ish rps with 7.4v lipo's, The 30K is running 13:1 (M110 cut, SS 2 teeth, no AB) the 35K 18:1 (M90, Full stroke, Double shoots on fully charged 7.4v lipo, No AB). Between the 2 setups the 13:1 30K is the better setup, It's far faster on the trigger. Doesn't need any AB, With the batteries I tend to use 7.4v 2200mAh 35/70C it runs for a full day on a single charge without any issues (I still swap at lunch). However, any rare earth magnet 30K (16TPA) motor should give about the same performance. The ASG isn't any better than the others, It's probably worse because of the price. Coming in at £20 more expensive than the 16TPA SHS HT, and not doing anything more for the money. If you run 11.1v batteries then 16TPA may be a little too fast without more modification. So you may need to look at a slower motor like a 22TPA, But I can't really go there as I've never seen a need for 11.1v when you can get 24 rps on 7.4v without doing a significant amount of modification.

Right lets run the numbers on those. 1.45Ah / 35A is 2 minutes 29 seconds of runtime (0.04hours). (24C) 1.45Ah/ 45A is 1 minute 56 seconds of runtime (0.03hours). (31C) 1.45Ah/ 95A is 54 seconds of runtime. (65.5C) Your batteries are rated for: 1.45 x 20 = 29 amps continuous. 1.45 x 40 = 58 amps peak. You are drawing double your peak amperage and over your continuous amperage in all instances. I'd be very surprised if those batteries are even holding the correct charge any more the chemicals are probably well on the way to a catastrophic breakdown. I'm not surprised they only give you 1 mag. I am surprised you don't get a nasty fireball at the end of that. Increasing C multiplier rating isn't enough. You need to increase C multiplier and capacity. Assuming you can find a 25/50 3s 11.1 you are going to need at least: 95/50 = 1.9Ah (1900mAh) Add in a tolerance for the overheads and your looking at perhaps a 2.2Ah (2200mAh) capacity. @2.2Ah: 2.2/35 is 3 minute 46 seconds. (16C) 2.2/45 is 2 minutes 56 seconds. (20C) 2.2/95 is 1 minute 23 seconds. (43C) So look for something along these lines. 11.1 25/50C 2200mAh. Assuming 11 seconds of shooting per mag (500/45). You should have enough juice for at least 7 mags, potentially 20 mags per battery ( 3,500 to 10,000 bb's).

Since you are ordering from AK2M4 I can highly recommend the zci rotary hop unit if you want an upgrade as well. It comes with all the parts including the spring. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4

Yup you'll need that part if it's missing. There are 2 styles an on barrel. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/hopup-inner-barrel-tension-spring And an over barrel that sits on a nub on the hop unit. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/hop-up-chamber-tension-spring-small There are pictures on both pages that show where they sit.

First question is are you absolutley sure what ammo you put in it, and what weight was it. I'm going to treat you like an idiot for the minute and assume you know nothing. No offence but with one post you are an unknown. If you have no idea about the ammo, or it came with the gun, then perhaps you are shooting 0.25g, 0.28g or 0.30g bb's and the gun is fine. It's just the chrono was set for the wrong ammo weight. If you look at the chart, 330fps is 1.01 Joules of energy with a 0.2g bb. Equally with 0.28g bb's the same energy 1.01 Joules is 280fps. I'm not saying this is correct, but it's a question that needs to be asked before you even open the gun and start to look for issues. If you don't know about Joules, it's a unit that describes the energy of an object. With a bb more mass (g) means when you apply the same energy (J) the velocity (m/s fps) is going to be lower, but the energy in the bb is actually the same. Legally we measure energy output and not speed, hence why we always give the weight with the speed. 350fps on 0.2g ect.

There are a few oddballs that were cast in magnesium, G&G did a few models back in the day. It's lighter than regular castings and a bit tougher. You still get the same sloppy fit between upper and lower with them! https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Discontinued-GG-USMC-Metal-Body-for-M4-M16-2936/ My GR300 is magnesium, It bubbles if you put a drop of vinegar on bare metal.

I wouldn't drill it as it looks like you only have to remove a small amount of material. Drilling when there's only a small cut pretty much always causes the holes to go off centre. It also looks like the flanges haven't fully seated down. The method I would use is a little unconventional. You take a dremel and a straight shanked tool, If you haven't got a flat (smooth shanked) tool then you might be able to mount a diamond bit in the wrong way round. You then grab some tape and fine wet and dry. Cut an even width strip of wet and dry the same width as the tape. wrap the tape onto the shaft of the tool and once you have a few wraps stick the end of the tape to the wet and dry, Then keep wrapping till all the wet and dry is spooled. If you spooled it in the correct direction the spin of the dremel will keep everything in place. you then just drop that in the hole and run it for a few seconds, Test and repeat. This page show a similar setup done on a much larger scale with a drill bit.... You are not trying to fill the hole with wet and dry, and it shouldn't be anywhere near a tight fit, It wants to be nice and loose in the hole, and just let the action of the dremel throw the wet and dry out, rather than putting any pressure on any metal part. If your in doubt test it on something else first like the inside of a 8mm nut. https://www.mybusyretiredlife.com/diy-simple-honing-tool/ If you need to make the rebate deeper then you get into all sorts of issues. By far the easiest and dirtiest solution is to remove flange material off a solid bushing using a sharpening stone/diamond hone. You need to be as accurate as possible to get a flat finish on the bushings. A drill press and wooden dowel can make this significantly easier. Making the rebates deeper on the shells is far more involved, and requires a well setup drill press/mill that is running as true as possible, and a suitably sized end mill cutter held with a collet. Doing it any other way could lead to damaged gearbox shells. All of this is of course assuming one thing. You didn't lay the gearbox on a flat hard surface when you tried to put the bearings in..... As this will pretty much always prevent the bearings seating as they poke out of the gearbox. Drill a hole in a bit of wood and put the hole under the bearing this way the bearing can go past the outer wall of the shell when you push them in.

If I were to get an L85 it would be the Army Armament one. It's a direct clone of the old G&G. It's got the most basic gearbox of the 4 and it's the cheapest. It also comes with the older style 19 tooth sector and piston. For £180 ish you get the basic gun, £20 more get you a RIS variant... Send it to a decent tech, and have it shimmed sorted and a warfet installed and it'll be spot on. https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/army-armament-r85a2-l85-sa80-aeg-with-rails-in-black.html Ares/Star suffer with a bad reputation. The gearboxes are know to be overly complicated and prone to problems. They also directly compete with ICS who have a better reputation with L85's. I would avoid the ICS based purely on price. The G&G is reasonable but when you have a direct clone without the bells and whistles the extra price is hard to justify. Especially if you can do the upgrades yourself. The biggest gripes about the army variant are cheaper plastics, and the gearboxes are a bit rough and prone to piston stripping. It's also a basic gun without the extras.... All can be solved for less than the markup of the others.

Nice sensible approach.

I'd still want to pick one up to have a test tho. Looking uncomfortable doesn't always mean it is. Just look at the GR300 pistol grip... Looks like an abomination, but I'll be damned if it's not the most comfortable M4 pistol grip I've ever used.

Does the RIS clamp to the barrel with a couple of slotted wing clamp/fasteners? Could it be something so simple as they went finger tight then just dogged up one side without looking at the final alignment. Would of thought if you drop the top of the rail off there's going to be 4 screws that hold the RIS to the barrel. Slacken them re-align and re-tighten. The RIS isn't an M4 floating style where the gun/RIS is bent if the alignment is off rotationally. The other mount method just has 4 screws on the outside of the RIS visible from the top of the rail. Again it's susceptible to be put on crooked as it just slips over the gas tube then the lower part sits in place with a shim and the 2 parts are screwed together... A quick slacken and re-align Is all it should take. But you may also have to slacken the gas tube via the take down pin on the rear mounting of the gas tube.

I'm an idiot Thought you were wanting to convert a G3 into a HK33! You actually want to build the G3K! Lol completely misread the titles! Nearest i've seen out of the box is probably the CA 51 SAR. http://classicarmyshop.com/proline/g3/ca-51-sar-offizier-m41-ca015m.html CA do sell a short G3 coking tube assembly. http://classicarmyshop.com/accessories/frontsets/mc-51-metal-cocking-tube-assembly-a015m.html It probably takes an MP5 handguard without modification.

You can get decent goggles cheaper than that if you look at the specs correctly. Goggles are one of those items that you 100% need and you need them to be right from the get go. Airsoft specific goggles tend to be expensive. And they also sell a lot of mesh goggles. Players have mixed opinions of mesh, They have less protection than a solid goggle, but mesh is also less problematic in wet and hot conditions. I do not advise anything made of mesh unless you know the risks and accept those risks. For total protection you can look in places like screwfix and toolstation. At industrial goggles, They all have kite marked lenses and are rated for specific impact protection. For £10-15 you can get a decent pair of goggles that will be better than any cheap pair of airsoft specific goggles. B rated lenses are rated for a 0.86g BB shot at 120m/s - That's 6 joules - Airsoft is typically under 2.5 joules so they have a solid margin for error. https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-concealer-concealer-premium-safety-goggles/69051 If you are under 18 then most site also enforce mandatory full face protection. This can be a lower half mouth, nose and chin cover with a pair of goggles. Full face airsoft specific masks with mesh are generally one of the worst options you can go with. They might look good, but with no impact ratings, and generally a poor face fit and low QC on the mesh fixing you can find they fail in unexpected ways. Camo is completely optional. In fact you don't even need a look. Jeans and a hoodie, with decent boots is plenty good enough. If you want to do things on the cheap then go with an AK47/74 variant. You can get a chicom chest rig for £15 and a balaclava, and a few high cap mags and that's the loadout done. Your a terrorist! And not a single person will question it. Even with a full wardrobe of kit I've had many a game where I've played with nothing more than a parka and mags stuffed in my pockets.

I can actually beat that..... These actually make my brain hurt. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001800997977.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.6.69f67016VxEbPq

Looks like a regular 2 post QD guide to me... AK2M4 have them in stock. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/spring-guides/zci-spring-guide-stainless-steel-qd-gearbox At the very worst you'll have to file the edges a touch to fit the hole.... It's not a big issue.

With it been a V3 watch the tappet plate like a hawk. It's possible to overshim upwards on the sector and cause the tappet to start to rub, I've had it where that rubbing only happens with the tappet fully back, Meaning it acts as a gearbox break. V3 spring guides are easy to get, I'd just order a new one and be done with it rather than trying to make a bad one good. As for the triggers - lol it's an acquired skill but once you have it they just drop back in. I normally find V3's are far easier to work on than V2's as you don't have the wires to worry about.