Iceni

I bought a match style fishing box and all accessories for pole fishing, from a well respected fishing shop selling last years stock cheap. I think it was about £400. Box arrived, absolutely no issues. Then a few weeks later an identical shipment arrived. Opened it found a second box in a slightly different configuration to what I had. Called the store, they said they would supply a collection. Waited in - no collection. Did the same thing again, Waited in - no collection. This went on for well over 3 months, fortunately someone was always in in my house. In the end I sent a final email, saying if not collected by this date it would be deemed my property. They agreed, failed to collect and I ended up with a second complete fishing box for nothing. But I had the annoyance of a huge box next to my front door for months!

I don't think they would, But all you can do is ask. The wood kit I got was one of his stock items from military surplus. And I don't believe the German army is selling surplus now, so it'll be destroyed rather than sold, And his stock on those items is probably never going to go up again. LCT do make a weaver handguard firesupport have it in stock. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lct-lc038-lc3-rs-handguard

I have a few compressors for painting with. The cheaper kits actually work pretty well, The only thing you have to be careful of is they like the paint to be thinner because you are pressure limited, and they have a significant pressure drop when you first open the air on the airbrush.. Meaning you often get a puff of paint. Easy to work with both issues TBF. I used one of these kits for a few years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Voilamart-Airbrush-Compressor-Kit-Dual-Action-Air-Brush-Spray-Gun-Paint-Tattoo/224160047368?hash=item3430fae108:g:W5wAAOSwmoxfYyw4 There's no regulation on the air, and the modes are just motor speed controls. They work fine if you can live with the lack of regulation for laying down base coats, and are not planning on doing super detailed stuff. For airsoft guns it'll do. Paint wise I'd probably use a self etch primer, then airbush acrylics (mig ammo, Valejo), and cap it with a satin clear coat halfords do a respectable rattle can. I upgraded a few times from that, but there's not a lot of difference in the £100 bracket and those. The next big step up is a dedicated airbrush compressor, Badger/Iwata make decent ones, or you can go the other route and get a standard compressor like Speedbird. I went a different route and got a silent 9ltr compressor that uses a fridge compressor, More expensive but I can use it in the house without the wife moaning, It's no good for tools, but for airbrushing it's perfect. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/quiet-run-compressor-2/ The mesh is only needed for that specific paint. Anything that is designed for an airbrush should not need filtering. The mig ammo and valejo stuff just likes a drop of water so it flows better. Mig have a better range of military colours IMO, and they have matched sets so you can buy a specific camo pattern. https://www.migjimenez.com/en/15-acrylic-colors

It's a sieve for the paint to remove larger lumps so it sprays correctly. You can buy an official one or just ram some 100 mesh gauze in the top of your airbrush before you fill it. https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/woven-stainless-wire-cloth-100-mesh-0.14-mm-aperture.html

Fine to import, Problem is the USA has some really strict export rules on gun parts, So you might find that no store is willing to take payment and ship. I got my wood kit for the G3 from Zib militaria over in Germany, No issues on the import at all. Unfortunately I don't think they stock anything like the parts you are wanting. http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Categories/Freie_Waffenteile/G3UziP1G36/G3

I feel your pain on this one. Give those bushings a shot, You might have something akin to a collapsed bearing or damaged bearing cage. The fact you are saying the bevel looks to be tipped under load is suspect. Bearings don't always fall apart. The internal cage is there to keep the balls evenly spaced. Without the cage or with damage to the cage you can generate lockups. I'm at a loss with this whole gearbox TBF. If the bushings don't work I'd be tempted to send the bugger out to a tech.

You would think it would all settle back to normal when you reset everything to stock. What else did you change with the configuration? Bearings/Bushings? Did you put shims on the high side of the bevel? Because All I can think is you've dropped the bevel gear too low on the pinion, And that's causing a poor mesh then a friction lockup. If you added shims or didn't seat the bearing/bushings fully, or those bearing/bushings are thicker than the stock ones then this would happen. It's the upper shell you need to inspect. I've done something similar on v3 gearboxes when following v2 guides. You set everything starting with the sector and think the bevel will just play nice and it doesn't. Then you have to work from pinion first and you find the tappet plate locks up.... There's a balance between those points that your gears need to be in, The sideways mesh gear to gear is largely irrelevant provided 90% of the tooth is in engagement, And you have shimmed out the sideways movement between the shells. Without actually seeing it it's not an easy diagnosis. Another thing of note is the pinion puller isn't going to fix anything. You've already swapped pinions with the motors, You've already adjusted the height with the motor screw. Pulling a pinion at this stage is just moving the same problem about and isn't going to fix the issue.... If it is bevel height, then all the pinion puller will do is change how many turns it takes on the motor adjuster to go from screaming to lockup.

Test it inside the magwell where any damage won't be seen. Just wet a Q-tip and test with a bit of rubbing.

It depends on the paint as to what you can use. So always do a test area first. Isopropanol(IPA)/Rubbing alcohol work well in most cases. It's also a good degreaser for gearboxes. You can get 1L for under £10 on ebay. I use this stuff all the time for other projects as well it's very useful to have about - CPU cleaning, Soldering, Screen cleaning, General degreasing, Paint thinner. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropyl-Alcohol-IPA-99-9-Cleaning-Rubbing-Alcohol-Propan-2-ol/233872977028?hash=item3673ea6c84:g:c-4AAOSwVChgEAXA IPA mixed with lemon juice is used on industrial food machines as a label remover. You can also probably just buy this as well from ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambersil-Label-Remover-200ml-Aerosol-Spray-Can-31629/293964498895?hash=item4471a647cf:g:U-4AAOSwlf1gCECx WD40 is surprisingly good, but can make the glue gummy.

Did you adjust the motor position. There's a screw in the base of the pistol grip that should move the motor in and out. There can also be issues with pistol grips setting the incorrect engagement angle to the bevel. I don't know that guns pistol grip configuration but sometimes just testing with a different grip can sort a lot of problems when you have gone through so many options without success.

Check the fuse when it's running. I've had it where a new gun made the fuse glow but not blow. Once it started to glow the gun would slow down and appear to lockup, then once it cooled again the gun would work for a few more shots. I suspect this happens because glass fuses are inaccurate with the blow current, And if you get one that's close to blowing but still holding on you find the resistance in the fuse can go really high and pull a lot of potential away from the motor. If this is the case then buying a new fuse will solve it.

Not a problem, I think there's a site that runs in Driffield, Not sure if it runs regular games or even if it's closed now but it might end up been your closest if it's still running. https://hqairsoft.co.uk/ The other local sites probably been Otley, Leeds and Topcliffe. Patrol base is a reasonable store, but if you shop around you can probably find better prices. Certainly look at army surplus for your clothing. DPM and MTP can be had cheap if you are just looking at a BDU, Shirt and Trousers. Once you start to look at webbing and tactical equipment DPM is pretty much always cheaper than MTP. For batteries and chargers ect have a look on Hobbyking. Just be warned - Tamiya and mini tamiya battery connectors in arsoft are wired backwards. So if you are looking to buy batteries make sure there airsoft ones and not for other hobbies. Hobbyking have a dedicated airsoft section (it's in the lifestyle tab). Chargers are all the same (we just swap the charge leads over on the charger if it's needed). You'll pay about half of what patrolbase want for the same batteries. Read up on lipo safety if you go that route, but typically using 2 batteries and swapping at lunch is good practice to stay safe. M4's will generally want a battery that looks like this. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2000mah-2s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html?queryID=&objectID=31062&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products And a charger for those will look like this. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger-uk-plug.html?queryID=&objectID=74217&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products_hbk_price_stock_1_group_0_asc It'll also need an adapter for the charge leads. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-tamiya-to-t-connector-battery-adapter-2pcs-bag.html?queryID=&objectID=27753&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products So you'll have that cost to add to any gun - but once you have it batteries and chargers will last years if you take good care of them. And you will want to get batteries, and charger at the same time as the gun and some ammo (ASG blaster 0.25g or similar) so you can have a play. It gives a typical outlay of: Gun £125-150 Clothing (not essential) £40 Batteries £20 Charger £35 Ammo £10 So at the very least £200 ish.

I'd be careful with that one. I think it's a full sized tamiya connector not a mini... Most airsoft guns use the mini adapter... This is the mini tamiya adapter to Deans. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-tamiya-to-t-connector-battery-adapter-2pcs-bag.html?queryID=&objectID=27753&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

At 1C a battery should take 1 hour to charge. So I agree If you are using 2-4 batteries then a second charger isn't needed. Unfortunately for me most of my guns use different batteries. So the AUG's use the same, and I'll have 2 charged for them, but then the M4 and G3 are different and I'll take 2 for each of those. If I'm spotting some mates rent free games then the AUG's need 4 batteries. And I can suddenly find 8 hours of swapping things about - With the 4 channel it's 2 hours and done before drinks. Added into that you can always guarantee your mate who shoots turns up with kit covered in mud from the last game, and needs to charge 2 batteries as well.

There's 2 schools of thought. If all your batteries are the same then you can use a single high output charger and multiple breakout/parallel boards. Parallel charging is common in RC, Less so for airsoft as we don't have the same protection circuits that cut out at a specific voltage - Meaning you would have to piss about discharging before you could start to charge. Or there are loads of 4 channel chargers that can do all 4 channels separately, meaning you can charge 4 different batteries at the same time. I've had my eye on one of these for a while, but haven't pulled the trigger. With 2x 10 amp and 2x 5 amp charge circuits it's more than enough to do 4 different batteries. I can't recommend it tho as I've left the research that long the market might have moved on. The advantage here is it doesn't matter what the voltage state of the batteries is. You are in effect using 4 chargers that are in one box. https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/skyrc-q200-quatrro-4-channel-200w-ac-balance-charger @TomFarrington97Adding a cable like this should cover all your bases with the charger and your batteries. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-9-in-1-multi-connector-charge-lead-w-4mm-banana-plugs.html?queryID=&objectID=85942&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products You Just have to remember that when using the tamiya connectors you need to reverse the red and black banana plugs... For Deans (T-connectors) airsoft uses the regular polarity.

That one comes with the wrong cable. This is the UK plug variant. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger-uk-plug.html?queryID=&objectID=74217&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products Those chargers are decent enough. Better than a basic charger for sure. And If you are only charging 1 battery at a time it'll have more than enough amperage. The only thing you might also need is a couple of extra cables for whatever batteries you use. The JST connector is universal, but you might need a bannana plug to tamiya/Mini Tamiya (These connectors are revered for airsoft so black goes into red on the charger), Or bannana to Deans.

Aye up bud, Avoid the nuprol. They have a microswitch trigger but they don't protect it with a mosfet. Pretty much means if you don't add a mosfet with a rewire then it's the trigger that will fail, and that can be accelerated with lipo batteries that are almost industry standard. Brands to look at would be: JG, G&G, Specna Arms, Cyma. Metal bodies are generally better than plastic ones, but the G&G CM Raider is a well respected plastic bodied gun. Gearbox wise, Basic triggers have less issues than ETU triggers - And don't suffer with electronic failures, For a beginner gun you want either a basic trigger, or a basic trigger with mosfet protection. Anything more than that is an added cost and that money is better spent on getting the rest of your gear sorted. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/g-and-g-armament-combat-machine-cm16-carbine?pv=5071 As for playing in Yorkshire it'll depend on your location, Yorkshire is pretty big . I live in Coventry now but come from York. There might be more sites locally if you give your nearest City. If you have not done so already, Or have never looked into playing and owning/buying an airsoft gun you might want to have a look through the UKARA rules. Loads of airsofters will go on their own. Once you get chatting you'll probably find everyone very friendly. Ask about the guns but don't touch unless you ask. Generally most airsofters think they have the best gear in the world, and love showing it off. Equally were all pretty invested in our gear and absolutely hate people just picking stuff up. So just like with any hobby talk and ask questions, even ask for a shoot.. The very worst someone will say is no. Listen to the site marshalls, Ask a million questions, If they know you are new and alone most marshalls will help you a fair bit and give good advice on where to go on site, or who to talk to... They also generally keep all the hires together in a group, so even tho you might be alone, there is a good chance there will be a small group of hires that you will be a part of from the get go. Take sweets - Bribes work well, And take drinks because even if the site provides them you'll need a drink on the way home.

Your barrel is wrong then. Let me guess you've shimmed the barrel so it's locked in place, or the hop unit doesn't move freely on the sping system (or all the way back). Do not shim the gearbox you'll crack the magwell plate. I'll add more to this later but I have to go to work now. For the minute just look at the hop, and the plastic parts that connect the hop to the inner and outer barrel. Either a retention screw is touching the inner barrel, or you've shimmed the barrel and it can't move. It's the movement of the hop that locks the gearbox in place. You may have also put the brass ring in the wrong place when you built the hop, so it's not allowing the hop/barrel assembly full movement. Edit time Right that's a lonex style hop unit, I used it for the image simply because it's not all black, the plastic Black one you have should be identical. First thing to do is check you have all the parts. The gearbox spacer is vital, It locks on in a pretty loose fashion and if lost then the gearbox will not engage the hop correctly. This part fits on the hop after the hop adjust dial and just sits on 2 prongs and locks with a 90degree twist. New hop units usually ship with this part so if lost it's less than £5 for a complete new hop unit. You should also have a brass ring that is not in the image. People more often than not will put the ring into Position A. This means you have less space for the screws that hold the hop assembly into the outer barrel. Often if built with the ring in position A you will find the hop will not move on the spring, The screw slot is what holds the barrel and hop in place not the screw touching the barrel. It's a common mistake. The 2 screws that hold the hop should not touch the barrel at all, and should allow the hop unit to move in and out just on the spring pressure. Personally I cut my Hop rubbers down a little and put the Brass ring into position B. This gives a little more space for the Screw slot screws. And doesn't affect the hop performance if you are careful with the cutting of the rubber. You will need something thin and moderately flexible to get the ring into the hop A little gentle poking about and it should sit just nice. Make sure the ring is fully hidden so it doesn't upset the C-Clip. The C-Clip should sit flat in the Hop unit. Badly fitted rubbers will cause this to be very hard to get in position or even try to pop out a little. If this is happening it's your choice of rubber causing the issue, or you have trapped the rubber lips. If it's not sitting flush then this will also stop the hop assembly moving correctly and cause problems with the gearbox. With the hop build right, The unit moving correctly, and the spacer in place you should find the gearbox is pushed back correctly. As it's the spring at the front of the hop unit that provides the pressure to keep the gearbox in place, and provides the pressure to keep the take down pin in the middle of the AUG tight. When you assemble the upper to the lower you should be able to feel the hop touch the gearbox, then have to push a little to make everything seat. If the AUG just slots together with no pressure then you can guarantee the hop unit is what's causing the problem. Hope this helps

The POM silent heads are quieter then the Alu ones. The Alu ones have significant slap the pom ones it's more of a thud. All that is for nothing if you can't deaden the gearbox and insulate it. I have a silent AUG build. To the shooter it's still loud, but to anyone a few meters away you can still hear it, but it's muffled, without a pop and very difficult to locate. There are almost as many modifications to the body as there are to the gearbox to achieve that. Outside of 10-15 meters it's as good a silent. The gearbox is lower on power (315fps), POM silent head, A solid brass spring guide, Greased mainspring with very heavy grease. Well shimmed. Heavy gearbox shells, Bushings, heavy gearbox grease. Brass thick walled cylinder (I think it came out of an old Cyma). The body is stuffed with closed cell foam, it has a big silencer with the foam modified to create pockets internally. The silencer makes up a vast amount of the sound removal taking any piston slap pretty much out of the shot. It also has a 340mm inner barrel (should be 509mm) Creating even more volume and break for the suppressor as the sounds can be pushed back into the outer barrel. My second aug has the SHS silent head set (it's actually a bore up set), No internal foam, No suppressor, QC spring guide.... It's nosier than a stock AUG. So you can make a gun quiet but you need the correct base gun to do it. Something with volume round the gearbox that can be filled, and you want as much mass as possible in the gearbox itself. Think of a tuning fork more mass is a lower pitch, Lower pitches travel further, but are harder to pinpoint than quiet sharp sounds.

The Aug can in theory be modded pretty well to remove the trigger issue if you wanted to do that. The trigger detents can be moved. You just cut in new ones and fill the old ones, In fact you could cut in multiples, so you have a fake break. Then using a titan and a bit of tweakening convert that into a very decent trigger. You could even have different feelings to the stages - The aug uses 2 sprung detents one either side of the slide on the upper trigger - you could make one significantly harder with a bigger spring. Giving a medium feeling break to solid stop. The AUG Para/Commando is about 340mm inner barrel. As for the weight if you see one on a site ask for a shoot, The weight and balance will surprise you I think. Back onto this one - Without seeing the internals and how the trigger is done I'd be hesitant. The linkage is the weak point on bullpups, And there is a lot that can be wrong with those triggers. The AUG/P90 avoid it by having a linear trigger, but a rotating trigger requires either a secondary pivot or a long trigger with a high pivot and you can get a hell of a lot of slop, or worse a trigger that feels like it rubs. That spring at the back of the trigger also worries me a lot. I suspect what we are looking at is a dual contact gearbox with the selector been a drum with dead stops for Semi and Safe. The rotational direction of the drum looks suspect. And with a hard trigger pull or worn drum this gun may be prone to selector switching from safe to semi to auto. Probably the Tavor gearbox on reflection. So it's not got a drum it'll be rod controlled selection with a safe lock on the trigger itself. Safer that what I thought, but that design of trigger is still horrible. I'd have to see one to make a judgement of what it's like to use.

If it's not the academy then it might be a springer, It's the only way I can account for the plastic body.

24.75 (shs) 24.79 (asg ultimate). I've used both and both have worked in APS and JG based augs without problems. I did try some quite a few of the cheaper ones like big dragon ect and all were too short. Asg ultimate is supposed to be a direct clone of the TM stock and they do seem to be right, It's also a plastic style nozzle so you can file back if you are getting poor feeding. I've not had to do this with mine.

Yes uppers can be bought, getting the one you want at the right price however will be very difficult, and potentially quite expensive. An A1/A2 Upper is normally £30-50, Add in a hop, bucking and barrel, outer barrel £30-50, Fore grip £8. (£68-108) A complete A1/A2 upper can be almost the cost of a new gun if you can find one. It means that the best action is probably to get a cheap AUG and just own 2 of them. You can get the snow wolf commando (JG) variant for £125 from bespoke airsoft. Meaning the rest of the gun is only £17-37, That ends up a pretty good deal when you factor it against the parts. https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/snow-wolf-aeg-aug-short-black-sw020t

Looking at the age and setup I think It might be the academy plastic bodied SA-80. It's a pretty rare gun, but I don't think it's collectable, since more realistic metal bodied SA-80's have been about for just about as long as that one. If it is the plastic bodied version they were sold as budget guns back in the day. Roughly half the price of the Star/Ares metal bodied version. Realistically I don't think it's worth a lot, Some collectors might want one for the novelty value, but new SA80's start at about £160ish and that is with a fully metal body and standardised gearbox.... This might not be a standard gearbox due to the age. You don't need a licence to own or sell it. You do need to ensure the person you sell it to has valid defence. Ukara membership is the easiest way to tell, A typical airsoft player will have a code and you can just phone any airsoft shop to check the code is real. Firesupport are very good for this. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/ I don't think I could price it for you... It'll be sold untested, It's not a current make, and it's of a construction type that is not common. So realistically it's a wall hanger to a collector. So £50-80 would be my guess but I could be very very far off the mark with that.

And that's the issue. Take a £100 purchase from GF. £20 is VAT in Poland. Therefore the same purchase should be £80 from GF + import + VAT (UK). GF simply can't sell with a margin that low. The profit on the sale should in theory be the same. In actuality the £80 price isn't possible, because as a business the quarterly VAT bill to the polish authorities was bogus. The UK home prices have always been higher than GF/TWG for good reason... And it's not because the Chinese sell them the guns significantly cheaper. Most web-store software has native VAT accounting. Even the receipt from GF/TWG has VAT listed, and that is done automatically. It's only a few selections in the software to show prices with and without VAT. The problem is this forces them to actually price correctly.