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Red Alert last weekend, first run out with my Arktis split front chest rig. Worked pretty well, knock off SPUD pouches were...OK. Fine for M4 mags but a bit of a struggle with G3 ones.

Finally sorted and got round to painting the Tanaka I bought just before Christmas. Looking sharp now, if I do say so myself...

Generally, i'll just reply with a "sorry mate, this sold ages ago you can tell by the "completed" banner" Typically that yeilds either no response or an "opps, thanks for telling me" Its a tricky one, on the one hand i can see how the whole "completed" thing might be missed by someone who doesnt take the time to understand how this forum works. On the other hand, its not entirely subtle how this forum works. My record is someone once paid me f&f for a scope thinking it was another listing, fortunately i spotted the amount error, queried then refunded him once we realised the error but it does make you think how easily i could have merely ghosted and kept the money. The moral of this anecdote is never pay f&f.....

Is the symptom a dead trigger after a few rounds of semi auto that can be cured by a burst of auto? That's a common v3 issue (well, most boxes have a similar thing but v3's are especially prone) caused by the cycle stopping at just the wrong point. If it's had an aftermarket motor installed, or has any active braking shenanigans via a mosfet that could be the cause as the box is stopping before the trigger has the chance to fully reset. Turning off active brake (if possible) will solve that issue. Its also possible given that looks to be a microswitch box that its something dodgy in the contacts, which might be the case if it's not got any mosfet and has been run a while (doubly so when lipo's enter the picture). This would manifest as the trigger feeling normal but it just not wanting to fire in both semi and auto unlike the above which is semi-specific and can be cured with auto. Mechanically, apart from what @strykerles mentioned about the trigger not being seated the only thing i can see in those pics is the trolley is raised with the black arm looking like it's going to miss the cyan microswitch button. That said, it looks like thats just how its sitting with the box apart and not how it'll sit once the other half of the case is installed. Nothing looks to be missing/broken, at least from what can be seen in those pics.

from the picture the part that is attached to the trigger isn't in it's correct place. it sits in a hole then it pivots to push the switch to fire when you pull the trigger V3 triggers can be a pain to place as they use a spring that has to go round the trigger and then you have to place the trigger and the other part into the holes then get them to stay there as you reassemble the 2 halves of the box. much easier with a QD box

Joined April 13th and hasn't made a single post. Even if he's not dodgy I doubt he'd be missed.

On the move at mo, I'll look him up shortly, scam or eedjit, it is the school hols after all🤣

I don't think it matters too much which battery, just that it has enough juice for it to turn over the AEG. Titans are normally pretty good but I've seen a few go wrong in the past. Most 7.4v LIPO's usually show around 8v fully charged so not much difference.

soooo.... 7.7v was probably enough for the NGRS to play up, It's not so much the voltage but more the current that the battery can supply. Fixing the semi-auto-back to semi issue can be solved 2 ways. 1. fit a high torque motor and this will stop it happening around 90% of the time. 2. fit a leviathan Mosfet and it will go away for good. Sounds like the ambi gears are worn and allowing them to slip and get out of alignment. I can't remember if there is a screw holding the 2 parts together but if so a bit of thread lock will stop the screw working loose and allowing enough room for the selectors to slip. The gear teeth are pot metal so will wear eventually so maybe trying to source a replacement might be a good idea as it could take a while to find one.

Gosh I made that terribly unclear didn't I? What I was trying to say was my first order sailed through with no customs or RIF declaration (also only parts, similar value) but my latest one has been picked up for both.

Assuming you're sticking to below 1.13j and not turning it into a DMR I'd say you're about right with .28 - .32g but unfortunately the only way to be sure is to give it a go. Try using whatever ammo you already have and go from there, you might find they work fine

Also running at 260fps. Assuming that's with a. 2 it clearly needs work done too

Hello and welcome from another regular Flecktarn wearer.

Ahoy and welcome back. And yes, flecktarn is best tarn.

Z-Bolt duel tail cap came in the mail. My front end OCD is at peace. I need to stay out of this thread to much influence to buy stuff. Edit: FFS under flash the light mount and hand stop are a different shade of Anodising. Back to the drawing board

Welcome back 😁🤚

Welcome

Had a work trip to california so hit up Evike's warehouse, a 511 store and bass pro shops, taking advantage of the weak $ vs £ at the moment... - Crye Airlite SPC plate carrier - Beez cummerbund for above - Crye back panel for plate carrier - MP5 metal body - MP5 flashlight forgrip - Vortex crossfire RDS - Cabelas 1-6x LPVO & Mount - Magpul MBUS front and rear sights - Magpul sling - P90 bespoke sling - Prometheus tightbore for the MP5 - Prometheus barrel r-hop patches - 2x 4uad buckings to try out - 5.11 Taclite trousers - 5.11 belt - 5.11 double mag pouch - 5.11 rolling duffle - 5.11 shorts - 3-4x 5.11 shirts and t-shirts - Bunch of cowboy shirts - Bunch of patches I shall be in trouble when the wife see's the credit card bill!

Don't see much Flecktarn around much these days, works really well in the images. Welcome to the party.

Hello. Welcome to the forum.

https://www.airsoft-hub.com/item/38161-m4-ar Non-descript M4 listing without a brand & model. Seller wants £200 where the only photo is an M4 being used at Skirmish Wycombe but nothing to hint the listing itself is legitimate. Bank transfer only because he's allegedly been scammed. Really confidence-inspiring. 🙄 In the words of Whitney Houston, "crack is cheap".

I've got the cyma socom, it's stock & even on .20's the range & accuracy has been excellent, & not fussy with brands. I suggest you wait till it arrives & test it with whatever you've already got before buying a load more.

Wrong stock, pistol grip and magnifier but it's a work in progress of the new Royal Marine MCX in 300 Blackout. Based on a VFC.

As suggested above, the old trades can be filled . Jim at LCs who does all my L119 engraving and machining work fills the old selecter markings first. Most recent A2 build Once painted

Click below to open the boxes. Mostly from WGCShop, who luckily had exactly what I'd been looking for on the tan T-2 and 20rnd PMAGs. I've settled on 4x ACOGs as my standard for pretty much all gats I'll use outside, but presumably Trijicon deployed their lawyers recently or something along those lines, because almost all the good replicas were gone from AliEx. Luckily many of the Ali stores just have their own websites under the same names with almost identical selections and pricing, so the scope is direct from SpecPrecision and the markings are *chef's kiss* (including the embossing on the right side).

Finally got myself a brain bucket that fits my oversized melon

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Keep a close eye on the grips, mine had a small part break off for no reason that I can think off. Not been banged or dropped, only fired one capsule so far.

FYI, I ordered from WGC last year and no declaration for parts, it sailed through. Placed another order last week and just had an email from UPS asking for my UKARA for parts! Filled it in, will update as it goes on...