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Firstly why are you using a Tamiya connector with a 11.1v LiPo??? They are not good for a decent connection. Use Deans or XT The key to soldering is using flux which helps the solder flow but I understand you might not want to buy some just for occasional use. Using 11.1v means a lot of power (relatively of course) so I suggest re-heating the welds until it all melts together properly and doesn't have blobs sticking out. You can hold the iron on for 10-20seconds to get things heated properly (hold the plug with pliers) Its also important to insulate each connection properly because if they touch you'll get a fire or explosion. Shrink wrap tubing is cheap and easy to use (remember to put the piece on before soldering)

Thank you sooooooo much! Thank you sooooooo much! OHHHH I really would have ordered from this dodgy site if you hadn't warned me. They even sent me a stock back notify email today, just after I clicked on the restock alert yesterday. In retrospect I'm really glad I had your alert. Thank you so much! Thank you very much for sharing the details! I'm now looking forward to the gun I'm about to get my hands on! Have a great day!

Hi all. After a crappy two years of stressful life getting in the way, I'm coming back to airsofting in 2025 and also to these forums. I took out my stuff and gave it a good once over. Nice to see everything is working nicely. Really looking forward to 2025!

Meanwhile I take my stuff out to give it a once over after like 2 months of not using and somehow everything's exploded, set on fire, sold itself on prefired for 30% of what it's worth and exploded again. Lucky for some I guess

There's no objectively right answer. I have great fun running 4x+, 2x, 1x, iron sights, and sights hacked out of pieces of EVA foam. Everything works, and whatever makes you smile the most is the best for you.

It depends how good/bad it is. If its OK then it will be fine but if its not making a good connection then it will heat up as mentioned above. Worst case is it heats up enough to come apart and cause a 'short' (plus & minus touch) then you get fire. Fire 10 bursts on full auto with a few seconds between each burst. Then feel the cable and plug around the solder point to see if anything gets warm. If it does then re-solder it.

It should be OK imo, I've rejoined wires with as little as a windproof lighter and some solder on a field before, the issues it could cause however are as follows, a bad solder joint can increase the resistance in the wires it's on which can cause the solder joint to heat up under full auto and potentially break the connection, the increased resistance can also make your gun run slower sooner as the battery's voltage decreases, this shouldn't be a massive issue though as it's not likely to destroy the gun or make it explode, if it feels like it's dying quicker than normal consider refreshing the joint, the best way to rejoin them would be to tin both ends of wire with solder (use high temperature solder with a flux core if you can), then using the iron get them both nice and hot, (I often use clothes pegs to hold the 2 wires stable whilst I do this) and once hot. Dab a little more solder on to flow the joint nicely, finish up with a good blow, some heatshrink or sparkies tape.

I went through a stage of ditching everything & just using iron sights, but I've found myself drifting back to various sights on almost everything, not because they work better, I just like them to look pretty 👌 Like me😘

Hi @bradleyj Fwiw, I play woodland, but have tried out cqb (it’s just to far to travel to my closest site to be a regular haunt) I have an unmagnified red dot fitted to all of my rif’s Ive tried magnified (an Elcan Spectre clone) and whilst the magnification is great for spotting, the eye relief and reduced field of view are a drawback when actually firing. I used it for one game, and went back to a red dot. I prefer using both eyes open so as I am able to use peripheral vision whilst lighting up my chosen target.

If in doubt, re-do it. You'll only get better with practice. I'd stick with 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin flux cored solder. Brands can be a holy war, I use Stannol, but they've discontinued the 60/39/1 wire that I preferred, so sod em.

Hey all I hope I find you well. Some of you will know me some not. Many of you I have met. I'm somewhat of a dinosaur now. I spent some time hunting 80-90-2000s spring guns. It became quite an obsessive project. I never thought I would get rid of any of them but I've come to realise much of the thrill was in the hunt, and I let one go and it was nice to let it go to someone else to enjoy. I'm not sure what I want to get rid of some of you will have watched as I amassed it. There are so many it's very hard to list. If there's anything anyone is interested in do give me a shout.

Yeah, they gotta look pukka too 😉

That's a good point, you're essentially introducing a fuse into the circuit. The only real hazard I could see would be stalling the motor out and locking up the gearbox.

I've never been a big fan of CYMA. Always found them a bit meh. I picked this up recently and it's actually a bit good. It's a CYMA Noveske Infidel for those that are interested. Comes with a eshooter mosfet as standard. I even like the midcap as it holds 190. Only thing done to it was swap out the stock for a Magpul slim profile one and replace the hop rubber with the 4Uantum friction Pro as I'm finding them very good.

That's correct, the limit for autos & shotguns is 1.3 joules, the limit for semi-autos or single shot is 2.5 joules. So an airsoft pistol could legally run up to 2.5 joules assuming it's semi-auto (1 shot per trigger pull).

Welcome. I'm guessing you've not played yet. If so then I'd stick with just the red dot for the moment and see how you get on with it. As @Tackleposted with the ranges we're dealing with a red dot site will do.

I run a belt setup for longer games, found it doesn't restrict my breathing like a chest rig does when climbing steep hills or hiking many kilometres. Plus it's velcro lined so it locks onto my trousers preventing any shifting. It's based on the Templars Gear PT-4, pouches are a mix of Templars Gear, Helikon and Baribal. Here's a picture of me wearing the thing along with a 15l backpack at October's National Finals, 4 rifle mags, two small utility pouches and a larger one at the back, GPS pouch and a dump. I'm now considering building a second "speedsoft style" belt, much lighter with just 4x rifle mags and a dump pouch, will probably use a HSGI belt instead of a PT-4.

Fyi, don't buy from Tokyo Marui Airsoft. That's not actually TM. They're using TM's name without consent. Pretty dodgy. Plenty of UK shops. Or WGC Shop, Boom Arms etc in HK. Impulse101 in Japan.

custom gbb workshop colt mk18 mod0 US NAVY VFC V3 gbb airsoft m16a1 lower m16a1 grip KAC style RIS handguarder steel kac style qd flash hider steel FSB F marking steel 10.3" out barrel steel bolt steel magazine catch steel satety CQD style Rear Sling Mount LMT style stock stainless steel buffer

Well gentlemen, what a painless process that was. A week after making contact with BF via email and requesting to speak directly with the officer associated with my case, my GHK Glock 17 Gen 5 has arrived. Can’t thank all of you enough for your sound advise, it’s been very much appreciated and will endeavor to help anyone in the future as you have all helped me👌🏻

A few initial thoughts on the S&T no. 4 after owning it for a week or so, albeit not yet using it in anger. Finish - pretty good. Wood tone isn't too 'cherry red', although there are a few blemishes where the finish hasn't been applied too well. I wish they had bothered to get the saw dust out of the grooves in the top piece as well, before immortalising the dust by being forever set within the applied varnish. Rearmost wooden top piece does move about a bit. Metal work is nice. Action - adequate, but not great. Mine chronos at 400fps on a 0.2, and the bolt is significantly harder to work than my 2.3j L96. I understand that this is usually down to a poor spring that is distorted out of the box - and can be rectified with the addition of a TM L96 spring. The rear of the bolt was also wobbly upon receipt - I needed to remove the fake cocking piece, then access an allen head bolt hidden inside the back of the bolt in order to tighten it up. The cocking piece doesn't reliably cock back on every cycle of the bolt - if the rear of the bolt is lifted as it is returned forward. Accuracy - actually, not bad. Very consistent at circa 50m with 0.32s. The only problem is, it is shooting low and left - and there appears to be no way of adjusting either the front or rear sight on the no.4. Plans for it - Jaeger Precision spring guide and piston on its way to me. I'll pop a thrust bearing on the back of the spring guide, and team with a L96 m150 spring. The spring guide, bearing, and better spring should sort the bolt pull out, and with the heavier piston, I should be able to propel heavier BBs better. I'll swap a Maple Leaf Autobot bucking in, and I'm currently investigating the best barrel to pop in there - internet wisdom seems to be that the very small cylinder volume (6cm of piston travel) means that you need to go shorter than the 570mm stock inner barrel - I'm thinking of a 400mm male leaf VSR cut barrel (which I might then need to internally shim to get it shooting straight in the absence of adjustable sights!). At some point, I will inevitably sand the wood down, re-stain (light oak might be nice), and oil - but given how good it looks to me at the moment, that's not high on the list. Not having owned a VSR - am I right in thinking that for this (loosely) VSR compatible platform, I need to specifically seek out a VSR cut replacement barrel rather than any GBB cut barrel?

Now with correct bipod, modified (lowered) scope mount and genuine HK navy lower.