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Picked up an Action Army T11 recently, thought I'd give a a paint job to cover up the boring old black. 👌

Load outs aren't usually my thing but been getting a western kit together.

The MWS is done, not spending another dime on it ©️! Next to that I still have some bits and bobs from the MWS left, and some parts from my Block II FSP build, if anyone is interested, send me a pm, everything is going relatively cheap

did a commission 3d print of an MWS outerbarrel/collar (for ultralight builds) and i really liked the concept, so i made one myself for my pdw build. also a new 3d buffer tube arm brace, and tanker style muzzle device. this thing has RECOIL!

I have the upgrade kit on my ARP and it's great.. Haven't really played with the settings, I have AB on and occasionally turn on binary trigger, which puts a big fat smile on my face when I'm playing cqb.. It's one of those overlooked bits that can greatly improve your gun without ripping everything apart.

Most likely. They're shit. The trigger board is fine but the fcu unit is abysmal.

Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps

golden rule of airsoft- be very wary of anything that's "likely an easy fix" because the question then becomes if it's an easy fix then why doesn't the owner want to fix it? in this case it looks likely to be poor air seal, something someone confident in tech work is probably going to be tinkering with on any gun they buy anyway (even brand new), however it could also be something more sinister, like stripped teeth or a mangled spring. also potentially worrying on a high speed build that looks like it's taken a fair few names. on a side note this is also one of the stronger arguments for anyone wanting to learn tech work, takes a lot of headache and worry out of secondhand buying if you have the confidence to know that you can deal with any hidden problems.

TM GBB MP7 is finished. just need to repair my mags then it’s off to Geartech for a paint job