What have you made?

[Enid_Puceflange]

6 hours ago, Druid799 said:

I do all my sewing with this 134yr old antique .

Is that Kevlar thread?

[Tackle]

10 hours ago, Druid799 said:

I do all my sewing with this 134yr old antique .

You owned it from new ? 😜

[Druid799]

2 hours ago, Tackle said:

You owned it from new ? 😜

Feck off ya twat ! 🤬

🤣🤣

6 hours ago, Enid_Puceflange said:

Is that Kevlar thread?

Na it’s just ridiculously strong bonded nylon (actually thinking about it it’s probably stronger than Kevlar !😂) as I discovered when it got looped around my foot and I went arse over tit and pulled the machine out of its mount ! 

[Speedbird_666]

Mk2 Drop stock with integrated buffer tube threads:

 

 

[HuttArmouries]

Aug hbar now basically done bar making the bipod pretty and building a whole lot of extended mags for it. Got the proper 3x scope now. Not bad considering that for £150 Ive built this and a second para carbine style aug out of what i got. Both working beautifully. Also very happy with how my use of spraypaint has improved. This gun used to be blue but I got a very nice finish on it. 

Also since we seem to be showing off antique sewing machines now heres a couple I have laying around in my workshop

Edited August 1, 2021 by HuttArmouries

[PopRocket123]

If we're showing antiques here's my mum's old one. Unfortunately it's non functional now because of a bent part so just a display piece now. Not sure exactly how old but the most recent patent date I could find on it is July 4th, 1874. 

[mightyjebus]

first trial of the glasses fan went better that expected. Ran it for the whole day on a power bank and started the day with 4 bars and finished the day with 4 bars so it's not very power hungry.

Didn't steam/fog up once and I was running around like an idiot for most of the day, so I'll call that a result. I had sweat running into eyes at one point but still no fog. Also worht mentioning that there is a slight noise when you wear them but people standing next to you can't hear anything so that's a plus.

 

Need to tweak the design slightly but now that I know it works I can get fancy with the design.

[HuttArmouries]

23 minutes ago, PopRocket123 said:

If we're showing antiques here's my mum's old one. Unfortunately it's non functional now because of a bent part so just a display piece now. Not sure exactly how old but the most recent patent date I could find on it is July 4th, 1874. 

Out of interesrt which bit is bent. I am a metalworker and I also know a sewing machine specialist

 

[PopRocket123]

41 minutes ago, HuttArmouries said:

Out of interesrt which bit is bent. I am a metalworker and I also know a sewing machine specialist

 

Not sure what it's called but the shaft that drives the needle. The whole thing badly needs stripping and cleaning as the old oil and grease has gummed everything up. 

[Speedbird_666]

54 minutes ago, mightyjebus said:

first trial of the glasses fan went better that expected. Ran it for the whole day on a power bank and started the day with 4 bars and finished the day with 4 bars so it's not very power hungry.

Didn't steam/fog up once and I was running around like an idiot for most of the day, so I'll call that a result. I had sweat running into eyes at one point but still no fog. Also worht mentioning that there is a slight noise when you wear them but people standing next to you can't hear anything so that's a plus.

 

Need to tweak the design slightly but now that I know it works I can get fancy with the design.

 

Result.

 

I would be inclined to reduce the size of your powerbank to drop some weight - it's a bit overkill for two tiny fans pulling ~0.06A each. You would be looking at ~120mAh, which would take even a cheap £2 Poundland 2200mAh Powerbank 16 or so hours to discharge.

 

 

 

[mightyjebus]

to be honest I chucked it in my smock pocket and forgot it was there. I've got a load of different smaller power banks so might run one of those next week

[Guest Mr. No_Face]

On 29/07/2021 at 14:36, Speedbird_666 said:

 

 To answer your questions:

 - Yes, I like to model the parts myself wherever possible, although you can find a fair bit of stuff on Thingiverse. I use Fusion 360 as my modelling software and Cura for slicing the model for print. If you want to design more 'organic' (such as your skull masks) I know people use software such as Z-brush and blender to produce the models, but I have no experience with these.

 

- That's a difficult question to answer, as there are several main types of printable plastic (PLA, PETG and ABS), and numerous sub-variations with additives and special properties. I'm using PLA+, which is less brittle than normal PLA, but at the cost of some mechanical strength. Normal PLA will catastrophically fail (i.e. snap or shear) , PLA+ is more likely to bend and stretch.

 

In the example of my drop-stock adapter, it's been printed in the least-optimal way for strength (the receiver extension for the buffer tube could potentially fail under enough force) due to the way that a printer lays down plastic layers on top of each other, but it was easiest to print it that way. In reality, the adapter feels more solid that the plastic G&G receiver it's attached to and there is zero flex, but time will tell.

 

 

I have an idea for the next version to make it a 2-piece design that means that the receiver stub will be printed in a different orientation to the rest of the adapter.

 

Current design print layer direction vs 2-piece design:

 

 - I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 bought directly from the Creality UK warehouse. It was on sale for £168 with free postage, but I think the price is back up to around £200 now. I'm running it pretty much stock with no upgrades other than a quieter fan for the PSU and yellow bed springs. I plan to add BLtouch (self leveling sensor) and some new bowden tubing at some point soon though.

 

Nice, So you do have modelling experience. 🤙 I'm actually currently using autodesk maya and Z-brush to model my next mask projects. I'm also about to purchase the "ANYCUBIC Photon mono X" which is a mid sized resin based 3D printer that retails at £435.  Looking to print in some kind of ABS resin or TGM-7 flexible resin, material as a solid base.

 

Who knows if the process turns out to be smooth I might start selling airsoft masks.

 

 

 

[Speedbird_666]

I'm modelling a reasonably accurate V2 GB (+/- 0.1mm) in F360 to use for an own-design receiver project. Took a few 1mm test prints to get the footprint measurements dialed-in

 

 

Progress so far - I won't need all the details (not bothering with bushings and screw holes etc.) but I will model the trigger hole, rear pin hole, grip frame slot/holes, and the selector area on the other side.

 

 

Edited August 4, 2021 by Speedbird_666

[Speedbird_666]

15deg stock adapter (apologies for those easily triggered by Speedsoft-type stuff 😜😞

 

Took a few attempts to get the scaling right, but I got AEG barrel nut threads nailed:

 

 

 

 

 

[TheFull9]

[Shamal]

7 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

15deg stock adapter (apologies for those easily triggered by Speedsoft-type stuff 😜😞

 

Took a few attempts to get the scaling right, but I got AEG barrel nut threads nailed:

 

 

 

 

 

Nice. How do you get the threads into the nut? 

[Stratton Oakmont]

Puts me in mind of this 

Edited August 10, 2021 by Stratton Oakmont

[Shamal]

9 minutes ago, Stratton Oakmont said:

Puts me in mind of this 

Just turn the pic upside down. Puts a whole new meaning into 'Is that a gun in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me' 🤭

Regards 

 

[Stratton Oakmont]

3 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Just turn the pic upside down. Puts a whole new meaning into 'Is that a gun in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me' 🤭

Regards 

 

Then with the hop you’ll get bb droop

[Speedbird_666]

2 hours ago, Shamal said:

Nice. How do you get the threads into the nut? 

 

Modeled in Fusion 360 (M32x1.5) and printed them - they needed to be scaled up by 2.5% to account for slight inaccuracies in the 3d Printing process.

 

So I needed to remove the proprietary barrel nut for the stock G&G front end - so had to design/print a tool to do it:

 

I knocked up a 'proper' barrel nut to check barrel fitting - y'know I think speedsofters have got the right idea when it comes to ergonomics, this thing feels super light, balanced and point-able:

(I know, I know, haters gonna hate - this is an exercise in curiosity more than anything else)

 

I intend to make a whole front-end using a ~40mm Carbon tube epoxied onto a 3D printed barrel nut, a printed outer barrel stub at the receiver end, a printed barrel stabiliser cap at the front, with the inner barrel free-floating in between.

 

 

 

[Shamal]

4 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

Modeled in Fusion 360 (M32x1.5) and printed them - they needed to be scaled up by 2.5% to account for slight inaccuracies in the 3d Printing process.

 

So I needed to remove the proprietary barrel nut for the stock G&G front end - so had to design/print a tool to do it:

 

I knocked up a 'proper' barrel nut to check barrel fitting - y'know I think speedsofters have got the right idea when it comes to ergonomics, this thing feels super light, balanced and point-able:

(I know, I know, haters gonna hate - this is an exercise in curiosity more than anything else)

 

I intend to make a whole front-end using a ~40mm Carbon tube epoxied onto a 3D printed barrel nut, a printed outer barrel stub at the receiver end, a printed barrel stabiliser cap at the front, with the inner barrel free-floating in between.

 

 

 

Mmm. So does this fusion 360 actually 'print' the nuts with a thread in them?

It's bit like the replicator on the uss enterprise. Lol

Regards 

[HuttArmouries]

10 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

15deg stock adapter (apologies for those easily triggered by Speedsoft-type stuff 😜😞

 

 

To be fair I think that looks pretty interesting. The only "speedsoft" parts I take issue with are the ones designed to abuse the semi auto only rule like blade triggers. 

[Speedbird_666]

8 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Mmm. So does this fusion 360 actually 'print' the nuts with a thread in them?

It's bit like the replicator on the uss enterprise. Lol

Regards 

 

Yep, Fusion 360 models the threads.

I send to model to Cura, which in turn slices it and creates the GCode for the printer.

 

 

[Shamal]

1 minute ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

Yep, Fusion 360 models the threads.

I send to model to Cura, which in turn slices it and creates the GCode for the printer.

 

 

Wow its clever stuff that's for sure.

Thanks for enlightening me 👍

[Adolf Hamster]

31 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

y'know I think speedsofters have got the right idea when it comes to ergonomics, this thing feels super light, balanced and point-able:

 

think it's less having the right idea, as more adapting to the requirements/limitations of the platform.

 

standard m4 ergonomics make a lot more sense when you need things like the buffer tube and gas tube for the gun to work and recoil is a thing.