matas17

Ive never put anything on my parcels only time any one finds out anything is if the postie asks then I say it’s one of those toy BB guns , never had a problem.

Got parcel from NI the other day with ParcelForce48, no issues whatsoever. Sender didn't write anything on it.

PF sports equipment.Never write on the outside but if the post office asks.

@ShamalI rather pay little bit less since i don't have a job atm and income is limited.

Ok.hope someone can help.👍

You wont be able to get them separate brand new. unless you go for the upgrade part which is more expensive. 

You can get them from WGCShop for £17 shipped. 

https://www.wgcshop.com/products/tokyo-marui-parts-for-next-gen-hk416-aeg-416-24?variant=24056016404561

@Cr0-Magnonbeen on a phone for 40min with HMRC and they are contacting customs on my behalf to get that sorted and I also gone send out the notice of claim to them tomorrow.

Something to be absolutely clear on: until the goods are in your hands, they are the property and the responsibility of the seller. That's not your rail that's been seized, it's theirs.  It's been seized because of their decision to mis-declare it. It's their responsibility, not yours, to get it into your hands.

So I'd get on to them and tell them you'll be needing them to do that, or to refund you in full and immediately.

When they inevitably refuse and lie to you about it being your problem, or simply ignore you, then initiate a chargeback via your payment processor.  No need to get into the details with them, just "ordered, not received, seller is refusing to resolve, money back please".  Consumer forums have information on how to do a chargeback, including on debit cards, not just credit cards.

Do this in parallel.  It's better for you to have the rail and your money, than neither.

This is not your fault, it's theirs.

@Rogerborg sent out letter to Border Force with request to get my rail and atm in talks with a seller to get my money back. Funny how the seller is so unprofessional and said "Customs is not my problem" like wtf but he declared it wrong not me.

My z-tac sordins (and many others) are a bit shit. Mine turn off with a slight bump/knock. I can't comment on earmor but at the same time I've read enough not to bother and instead going with a set of howard leight impact sport with audio running from a shoulder mic. I have heard better things  (but not a great deal) about the FMA RAC helmet-mounted headset, but that is nearly £100. 

I have a set of earmors and they're fine. For helmet mounting ditch the ones that come with it and get a set of FMA FARA mounts (or splash the cash and get the actual Unity ones).

Yeah, found this out the hard way last night. Know what the deal is? The update was just saying "recognizing" and seemed to go back to standard V2 gearbox as default (rather than NGRS). Now it's completely dead. 

@Cr0-Magnon contact Gate on facebook or by email to sort that out. But mine worked when i downloaded "Gate Control Station" not "Gate Control Station for TITAN with GBU" but the first download and then i installed beta software for titan. But gate sent me some beta software via email for me to be able to sort that out but that might work for you.

Probably best to send an email to Eagle6 or Camoraids.

https://www.softairgames.net/en/outer-barrel/9416-outer-barrel-inner-barrel-1575-for-tavor-tar21-aeg-umarex-um-set-tar-1575.html?search_query=Tar21&results=11

For that kind of money, Id do a monetary-backed trade. Essentially, you both buy each others guns. Paypal protection is in place, and everyones happy. Only real downside is that high value items sometimes can't be afforded by one or both sides.

I only have the two scopes so don`t really know much about helmet mountable options but just pointing out that for the price difference some decent digital nightvision are usable and you don`t have to worry about light source damage.  Sure they won`t be as clear and you will really need the ir illuminator on for them to be affective but they are an cheaper option and are usable at closer ranges without alot of heavy foliage.

What lid are you running? I'm looking at night vision down the line, but I knew my first purchase had to be a proper helmet. Didn't fancy hanging £3k off the front of a £50 Chinese repro!

I'd go with a FMA helmet (Maritime) as I bought a Norontos Mount, which fit on the helmet perfectly.  (I've since bought a airframe clone but the helmet shrougd was crap and the Norontos mount wiggled..I just took off the FMA shrough and bolted it to the Airframe.  **Norontos is a the metal mount which attaches both the nightvision device and helmet together.  Bungee cords you see on helmets are used to attach to the night vision device to remove any loose play when it pulled down and in front of your eye. 

 https://www.scottcountry.co.uk/night-vision/monoculars/ These guys are very popular in the community and they offer finance deals on most of them.  (Though they don't have much stock atm...)  https://www.reddit.com/r/NightVision/ This reddit is mostly American but a lot of uselfull info can be found here...there are UK people who post on here as well.  http://www.nightvisionstore.co.uk/tubed-c102x2376934 Another UK nightvision source, but unsure if they offer finance.  https://www.nightvisionforumuk.com/index.php UK Nightvision forum...can be helpfull.    

https://nighttec.net/ EU shop and have a lot of NV stuff..but expensive.  Facebook groups can also be handy as a lot of people selling NV devices or associated bits...like J-Arms & mounts etc.  "Real Steel Advice and Sales"   "Tactical Kit and Accessories Sales Uk (Real Steel Only"   I hope this above can help you on your NV journey... 

The trick is not only buying a device, but finding a way to mount it to a helmet.  For me personally... I bought a Armasight Sirius SD Gen2.5+ monocular for £1300 on finance with ScottCountry.  (They don't sell them anymore)  Problem I had is I bought a Norontos mount and J-Arm.  The mount fit into the NV shroud on my FMA helmet perfectly.. I could not break it away and it was locked in solid.  The J-Arm (Which attaches the mount and device together) was designed for a PVS-14 monocular and the mounting rails were different.  I didn't want to buy the Armasight (Now FLIR btw) mounting kits etc...as they were very expensive and had shit reviews.   

I did find on google a company who made an adapater so I could mount my NV monocular to the J-Arm and bosh..it's was sorted and is running strong to this day.   A lot of people these days buy the Aluminium FMA G24 mounts with the dovetail...but as you research more into NV you will find out what I mean.  Have a butchers at the HERESEYGROUP on youtube and look for their NV vids..can be informative about the basics.. 

Don't waste your money on GEN1+ devices...better to save up for a GEN2+ or finance it.   Good Luck!

https://www.uktactical.com/p-12398-nexus-sf-m3-helmet-with-rails-nvg-shroud-boa-dialler-tan-size-medium.aspx  Oh...these helmets are real steel and are priced quite well and also have the highly regards Team Wendy Helmet retention system in them.

Honestly the best thing to do is just to put the mag in And out again , as many times as you need until it loosens up. Might take a bit of effort but eventually it will get better

@Alpha.s1 its not that they are not loose that rubberized material is sown inside pouches which makes it hard to pull out mags.

Ive used them in the past, and ditched them in favour of the bfg style , with EPM’s my teammates use them and their feedback was that it will get easier, I get that their not loose, but thats just my poor description skills😂

Triple ones?

https://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/blue-force-gear-ten-speed-triple-sr25-mag-pouch-15303-p.asp

Look up the part number on the diagram then search for it.

Or email them they’re very responsive and helpful.

wow some waiting time lol

STD v3 stuff inside, nothing bespoke I think

what kind of mosfet does LMG gearbox take if you have any idea?

right now trying to find a way to make trigger contacts extend to the front of a guy to reach the trigger.

I mean, you can probably wire one right in. Not sure why you couldnt...

It is a SHORT motor

basically it is an AK type gun internals with a linky trigger

So you will have a good bit of long trigger pull coz a two piece trigger becomes 3 piece with trigger link

There are two types only difference is where battery goes:

v1 - battery up front with a long stick typebattery

v2 - for last couple of years so more common model is rear wired and battery at the back

Strip down:

http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html

@padraigthesniper i shot it with 7.4v lipo since i never use nimh batteries. Mainly use 7.4v or 11.1v .

@Sitting Duck thanks alot now i will know what sort of motor to buy and i reckon id be able to do some sort of mod to reduce trigger pull like i did on my mates a&k vector. It had long trigger pull, shortened it by around 20% .

@Sitting Duck you know what kind of internals APS UAR has. like what version internals. Or is it all v3 inside and no v2?