Sitting Duck

show me any that you find - often you need a 10v to 18v psu with correct plug at end to power many lipo chargers - most of them are like this some like a ParkZone one are designed to run off car cigarette lighter socket but no bigger you could wire up a 12v psu and have it for use at home/car many do allow a variable voltage of between 10 to 18v as the modules internal voltage regulator allows for this but all of them may differ so I ain't saying jack $hit a few models run on 240v like the B3 types - but as with all chargers especially really cheap ones beware of unsafe copies/clones you can buy a cheapo £3 one from china and use an old adsl/cable modem psu at 12v I got one like that plus a B3 240v but I kinda understand stuff a bit more - no offense to you or any others out there so it might be best to get a proper charger off the self rather than a Blue Peter diy thrown together bodge up one like mine

not really unless they do cheap lipo chargers in EU store UK don't and the really cheap chargers come from Hong Kong / International warehouse take a look by all means but you have to do seperate orders for UK or EU or USA or International etc..... failing that check ebay but make sure you are really buying from a UK seller loads of china sellers appear to be in UK but are not - cheecky sods

The GC16 is NOT a crane stock and is FRONT wired in handguard Both the 30th GC16 & G26 and the Carbine's are FRONT wired Rest of CM range are rear wired - I'm 99.999% sure of that except for confirm any other new/older models most rear wired ones have the crane rear stock for the twin stick/nunchuck batteries in the crane stock (has 2 thin tubes at back) twin stick or nunchuck or crane style batteries - call them what you like but the twin stick batteries are designed for crane stocks but can be used up front or anywhere they will fit you can shove these in a jumbo full size fixed stock and a couple of mars bars as well I guess batteries go anywhere they will fit - and then there are external batteries mounted on rail in a PEQ box but don't worry about that.... The GC16 is front wired in a slightly longer hanguard - you have some room from bottom of handguard to outer barrel this is aprox 18mm max height or thickness of a block battery width wise it is about 35mm might be 36 at a push length of battery could be up to 170mm but due to ridges or parts of barrel meeting this full depth of 18mm will only be maintained for say 150mm so you have a space of 150 x 35 x 18 - this figure I would go for slightly under if possible 16 or 17mm as lipo's may slightly puff a tiny bit in use and most of all just to be on safe side of things most 2200mah block batteries are gonna be 110 to 125mm long and most will be 32 to 36 - do not go over 35mm width it is the thickness you need to pay close attention to 16 to 17mm - max 18mm - 20mm+ - no chance closing up handguard.... due to many block batteries being used for mainly RC stuff - many won't come with small tamiya connectors but xt60 there is an adapter which works well - some adapters from Hong Kong came with incorrect polarity no biggy to unpick & reverse pins/polarity - hopefully a reputable UK seller will have the adapter 101% correct (long story short it gets confusing coz large tamiya's BLACK = round socket are wired different to small tamiya RED is round socket) Anyway - due to the pi$$balling about with just one adapter in gun needed but hopefully correct polarity and measuring/checking double checking all dimensions BEFORE you order etc.... The twin stick batteries from HobbyKing Europe at a fiver will go in there no problem, not as big capacity but no messing - small tamiya, goes in there really easy with loads of room - heck you might even get two sets in there coz when I tried it they went around outer barrel at say 9 & 3 o'clock so you could put in another set and have a combined 2600mah 7.4v or 1300mah 14.8v NOT A GOOD IDEA TO WIRE IN 14.8v in a stock gun - well any gun really coz most on here stay in single volt digits seriously just put one set in there coz if you wire it up in series/parrallel - you will get 14.8v on series - BANG and besides 2 x 7.4v 1300mah do work but is better to have one bigger capacity if possible or just run them one at a time Soz for Open University bollox - there is the option/space - but don't bother imho Hopefully you got this now - either block option if you measure/adapter or the long twin sticks at a fiver each the warning was to others as being these sticks are about 166mm long they are way too long to fit other rear wired crane stock guns (work fine in AK47's top cover/battery, still crap for mp5k's as they are smidge too wide - poxy mp5k's) So anybody else thinking I'll get them for my Raider - ergh the arse will be hanging out of rear crane stock so don't anybody start bitching to me if these don't fit All of us need to take care and double check any battery will fit - I'm sure I got my measurements right on the GC16 but all the same I ain't getting sued if stuff don't quite fit 101% as first thought If I don't win this months Golden Ladle Award then I wanna know why coz I will be considering legal advice

nearly all places will require you to play at one site for ukara (tbh I can only see them allowing this if and it is still an if - if they had more than one site under their names) makes it easier and more importantly your ukara entry on database is linked to you local regular site half days do actually count - suppose you could book pay go out then go home done that once or twice when my gun broke I went home home with the right hump stomping off about my toy broke Waaaaaahhhhhhhhhh - its not fair wwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

are you 18 and ukara'd ??? don't care if not coz the ICS was ahem "gifted" by other bloke just if you are then Taiwangun or if not and have to 2-tone there are UK places

One of my ICS-42W's blew a fuse just like that (Tommy Cooper) and Lord Metile had to have his motor replaced I think but he still got an ICS MP5 later on the fuse is a crap blade type and I think the wire is still quite thin and I stand by stock ICS's are a bit faster than stock G&G M4's so who knows if the motor is drawing too much current - if it has thinner wire for more TPA it could be getting worn the windings if really really thin wire used - have heard windings blow like fuse but that was usually being pushed to hell atm the gun ain't running right, the guy has offered to sort it which is better than usual "sold as seen m8" see if he can fix it properly - he might have generally thought it was sorted but alas maybe not I've been there myself - well still going there sometimes just as you think you have got it sweet then the ar$e falls out elsewhere or something...... if still no joy I'd just gut the thing and start over myself - but then I'm no expert and probably fix one thing and balls something else up

remember if you don't wanna pi$$ball about with adapters you can get this: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44687 now that is still dirt cheap and does go in my gc16 30th - tested it but UK warehouse don't do airsoft batteries for some reason ??? so make sure you click on european warehouse and wait 5 minutes...... eventually a little box may pop up and offer them at a small discount 5 to 10% max - it varies on each battery buying from Europe/Netherlands will be faster - by end of week rather than 2 or 3 weeks from International Hong Kong shipping might be a little more than buying from UK but cheaper than Hong Kong and waiting.... also there seems to be no real limits on postage tariff rate - I filled a basket with 4kg's of stuff and was same price it seemed as just buying a couple of bits from Europe ??? (i didn't purchase a ton of batteries but was being f*cking nosey) anyway - you got some options to think about anybody else thinking of buying those cheap nunchuck batteries..... THEY ARE TOO LONG TO FIT INTO CRANE STOCKS !!!! but they do fit in longer gc16 handguards up front

if you get zippy compact or others like that a lot come with xt60 connectors for use in RC cars n boats.... hence the adapter for xt60 to small tamiya on airsoft guns - most including G&G will come with small tamiya (some other guns might come with large tamiya or higher end guns deans but 98% will be the small tamiya) if you buy AIRSOFT nunchuck or stick batteries they will already have small tamiya connector on there but often cost a bit more (mention airsoft battery in a shop and they will bump up prices) best places are RC shops to buy batteries from - most will have a small selection of AIRSOFT batteries but like I said depending on the gun's battery space you can use the RC block batteries also with bigger capacity etc.... Normally we cut off the connectors - ONE AT A TIME or you short by cutting both together - you WILL get a f*cking shock trust me BUT it ain't worth messing about soldering/fitting new connectors unless you really want to just use an adapter - only need one to leave in gun and maybe get 1 or 2 block batteries with xt60 connectors the zippy compacts are good ones - got some myself - turnigy, vapex plus others are all decent makes just you need to pay attention to connectors or get adapters or resolder/crimp new ones on if you want to get best value for money you can just buy proper airsoft batteries with small tamiya already on there as well - just that the GC16 can use the block type ones within the sizes I told you about - be careful you don't get one too big and can't fit it in - done that before oops (crane stock guns can't and need the correct nunchuck or twin stick batteries in them like Raiders & CM18 etc...)

It is my primary address tbh.... so it seems it had a history or ongoing problem - could be wiring or maybe faulty motor/fet or something else causing fuse to blow Well at least the guy & tech bloke will know what they have done/tried/not tried so far rather than any of us keep stabbing in the dark etc.... we could try new motor/fet/connectors etc... run a meter over wiring but most likely if no joy it may need opening to replace any possible short wiring but we ain't got it in front of us and if the previous guy sorts it out then alls well that ends well lucky - lots of horror stories of people palming off problematic guns onto others fingers crossed and keep us informed

you don't need a mosfet for a stock gun on 7.4v higher voltage 11.1v yes or when you upgrade the motor/electrics etc... yes but for stock gun - nope charger - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Absima-LC-1-Lipo-Charger-UK-Version-4000031UK-/261912415786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cfb324e2a battery - listed some options and gave you dimensions 18 x 35 x up to 160mm block types - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZIPPY-Compact-2200Mah-2s-7-4v-25c-35c-Lipo-Pack-UK-Seller-Fast-Dispatch-/131212457347?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e8cdf3583 HOWEVER a lot of block/brick type of lipo's do not come with small tamiya connector so you need one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MALE-XT60-TO-FEMALE-MINI-TAMIYA-LIPO-BATTERY-CHARGER-ADAPTER-FOR-RC-CAR-BOAT-/251538674995?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a90df9533 it don't matter to most of us if we are resoldering new deans or T plug connectors on there in upgraded guns but as the GC16 30th is front wired a moderate but higher cheaper capacity battery can be used carbines, GC16 & G26 are wired up front rest of G&G's are rewired and many use crane stock - 2 x small thin stick type batteries yes you can buy/use the crane/nunchuck/stick battery in the GC16 but you can also use the better bang for buck block/brick type batteries if gun's battery compartment allows (which it does on GC16 30th) up to you what you buy - but posting this stuff on zero one won't get you many open choice replies As Zero One being a retail shop don't like people posting links to other stores/sites that Z1 sell in store Hence this place is more open and can speak/link to other sites's offers etc.... Hobbyking is good but to really save money you need to buy 2 or more batteries - then you get lipo's very very cheap (especially block type ones)

he thinks he may have a fet in there already but maybe if it is an active braking one then perhaps swap it out for a firestorm or f-storm fet not an active breaking fet AND it has (they say) thermal cut out protection so fit that £10 cheapy micro baby fet and bypass/remove fuse google firestorm mosfet or airsoft mosfet thingy soz but Duck support line is down for the moment - I'm off out for a beer - jeeeeez

what I was saying you may be able to get block batteries in the GC16 http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8933 these are out of stock atm but you get the idea - a couple of those batteries should fit also reckon battery dimensions could be 33 x 18 x 160mm but for sake of easy fitting drop a few mm to say 30 x 15 x 155mm block type battery dunno what connectors are on them in the above link I normally fit deans on there but just pointing out you won't get that cheapy battery in a crane stock I normally run with rear wired fixed stocks and shove ANY battery up to nearly 5000mah in there - get my lunch in them big stocks though I usually stick with a short stubby fixed stock on most guns - just easy cheap batteries up to you - have a think but don't rush out just yet until you have thought it through like most hobbies it can get expensive especially at start - but once done it costs little just a few thousand bb's - under a fiver and charge ya battery you should consider renting and trying it out first though before you jump in it is fun but you should look into it a bit before just buying and commiting to it all straight away

Either will do, I think most on here may opt for GC16 as the 30th edition is metal for one reason (not the normal GC16 - the 30th special editions were made with the metal receivers normally found on £200 G&G's) Raider is still excellent gun to get going with ok - where the f*ck has my Sunday gone ??? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44687 right that battery above will NOT fit in Raider as it is too long at 166mm but it does fit in the front handguard of the GC16 fine - which I was surprised as is my usual AK47 battery Raider battery like most crane stocks will take up to say 127mm or 5 inch stick lengths and deffo won't take block/brick batteries coz the 2 x tubes have a max diameter of APROX 22mm so you need a square stick probably about 18mm x 18mm square peg in a round hole so to speak I don't know what other ones will fit atm but understand I ain't gonna go through loads n loads but I will try to assist a bit depending on what you decide to buy a cheap B3 lipo charger can be bought on ebay for about a tenner but buy from a reputable UK only seller dodgy clone chargers etc..... - you can pay £30+ for stfu chargers but SAFE £10 ones will suffice to get you going

Airfet - mosfet but I do hope it ain't an Active Braking one coz they add a bit more strain to motor when you release trigger the polarity is reversed stopping the motor quick to stop overspin however this would only come into effect when releasing trigger - then a bit more load is placed on motor not a massive amount but still a bit more load/heat "can" be generated jury is still out on if they are good or bad but I don't use/have any AB fet myself but others use them on here no problem I'm gonna go out on limb and hope if/when that was fitted the wire was upgraded also and thus there should be very very few points of resistance So if all the above is done then depending on gun setup it could be a short taking place or a great load from bad shimming/motor height causing stuff to heat up if still blowing a 30amp fuse when fitted I would get into contact with the previous owner first and at very least get him to explain exactly what was fitted and how as you are maybe a little unsure. There could be a short or strain taking place for example and if you don't know exactly how sound the shimming/wiring is the last thing I would say is bypass the fuse how warm is the wiring getting - silly question coz your own definition is gonna be different to my own definition So it is gonna be hard if not impossible for me or anyone to say this or that will help/cure it and unless you know wire/shim is sound then ffs don't think of bypassing fuse at all 11.1v lipo 25c+ is f*cking beefy $hit - trust me I've seen a 7.4v arc and that was some mofo sparky crap this ain't 5v 500mah usb lead - even so just look at some them faulty usb charger fires out there Not wishing to scare monger you but seriously get in contact with the chap or drop to 7.4v perhaps don't ffs take chances - quite likely it will need to be fully checked out by somebody if she keeps happening The blowing on full auto to me seems like something ain't right or up to the job - and bigger beefier fuses or worse remove/bypass the fuse is not the way to go - not until it has been fully and completely checked out

everything in life comes down to Airplane my drinking problem.... and when everything is going ultra pear shape at work/life etc.... Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit smoking/drinking/sniffing glue in the offical top 5 of funniest films - surely it should in the top 3 ? (stop calling me Shirley)

Ahhhhh - yeah she fire quick on that mofo 30amp blade fuse but she still might blow tbh She should really have a mosfet on there - if she ain't bet them trigger contacts are sparking n arcing a bit you could have resistance from carbon building up another thing to check is the motor contacts are snug but be careful they don't break off at the right angle bend onto motor - they can be like little fuses themselves and can weaken & blow/snap all these joins fuses connectors are weak spots of resistance that can add to the fuse blowing some remove fuse as itself is yet another resistance point in high stress/speed/fps guns.... BUT I AM NOT RECOMENDING YOU DO THIS AT ALL !!!!!! it is there for a reason and it could very well be blowing for a good and valid reason - especially taking the pi$$ on 11.1v without mosfet there could be a slight possible short in there so I deffo do not advise removing fuse at all and 30amp is usually the most fitted, I will not say go to 40amp without getting wiring/motor checked and perhaps thicker wire and mosfet installed Jeez I use mega thick wire - a bit thicker than 16awg slicone wire and still it warms up a little when going nutz

buy lipo's if possible - you could get cheap block type 7.4v's and a cheap charger they are better than old skool batteries - most have switched over to lipo's on here they ain't much different to old skool in normal guns but are more efficient and eventually old skool nimahs will hold you back you can buy old skool nimahs if you like or find a good deal but personally don't bother unless they are dirt cheap price Lipo 7.4v all the way - is like old box type TV's vs LCD HD TV's

Try a 30 amp blade but no more normally all the crap heats up more on semi when you are spamming single shots loads (its one of the basic tests to see if a mosfet can take the strain of semi spamming - 120 semi shots in 1 minute) yeah bit weird it doing it on full auto, but them ICS motors do run faster than G&G's but I have had that and think a ICS by Lord Metile burnt out under warranty on him so they might have thinner wires in gun or in the armeture of motor winding that could heat up some motors have blown in the windings on the motor my guess is thinner wire used to allow for more windings but this might blow or heat up more this is pure duck theory bollox so don't pay too much attention to to me - nobody else does what volts or battery are you using 9.6v nimah or 11.1v lipo ??? is it still under warranty or you been messing with it ??? could be a dodgy bit of wiring or motor on its way out or some strain on box but would lock on semi I would of thought once it is running the load isn't so great keeping it firing rather than fire - stop - fire - stop like spamming on semi

not at epsom for sure.... spent ages getting my red - a lot places deffo don't like green lasers spent ages getting my red laser bang on but got told NO @ Epsom Tunnels they said they used to allow red but recently - last year just said no to all lasers tbh I think more n more places have just said no full stop whatever colour so no chance of damage if blinded by one

hmmmmmm - it is a close match between a raider from Z1 painted free and £10 delivery = £133 or GC16 30th painted + delivery for £168 - it is still £35 more than the Raider..... But if you can afford it think most on here would say go for GC16 then source batteries as cheap as possible coz "airsoft" batteries cost a bit In fact the GC16 is front wired and has 3 mini rails to mount on it so it ain't rail-less like carbine and I'm sure you can get slightly cheaper block batteries up the front where as on Raider you need twin stick or single stick nunchuk batteries in the crane stock these can be slightly more than the block/brick type batteries used on others (yes the GC16 can use crane/nunchuck/twin stick batteries but some moderate block types should fit in there too) so maybe yeah sod it - GC16 if you can afford it but don't get swept along too much buying loads of stuff if money is tight YOU WON'T GET BATTERY/CHARGER WITH ANY G&G - so be careful before jumping in and buying loads of stuff if anything maybe a pack of BAW blue 0.20gms bb's but there is still lots of stuff - well a few bits you will need if getting into it like eye protection - no crap - if you go skirmishing naked - very brave/stupid - at least have some decent eye pro read ian's guide first just before you take the plunge - I'll happily answer all your questions but you gotta realise just buying a gun is only half the initial investment when adding clobber/eye pro/mags/battery(s) charger/boots etc... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

based on the above info.... I don't feel so guilty then not regulary supporting my local site as often as I first thought i should still feel lazy but wtf I have no stamina as well as no guilt now

nope you won't find it better anywhere lese and if from airsoftworld... nobody does that unique snakeskin look either if/when you get ukara you can buy stuff cheaper abroad but those places don't do G&G cheap Even in US where everything is bigger better cheaper they don't have screaming deals on G&G Think it is like Apple Ipod/phone etc.... - you can't get these really dirt cheap coz they just don't do mega bulk discounts Cyma's JG and others - yeah mega cheap offers but not seen any cheap better G&G deals than what we get in UK Also most other places have sold out of the 30th's GC16 & G26's a while back so I really really doubt if you can get these in many places Though Z1 2-tone for free, there shipping is bit more expensive than others like AirsoftWorld & Land Warrior Airsoft so it ain't that steep it is a nice metal mofo m4 that will do you proud out there in my book without vivid white CM on the side telling eveybody you have a Combat Machine (so f*cking what I say - my first car was Ford - big deal) soz - good gun to get started with - well them G&G's are all good decent guns imho whatever you run with

Be interesting to know but reckon all sites may have slightly different guidelines Thought it was some thing like 3 games in 2 months to qualify and something like a game every 2 to 3 months I might have heard coz some people working overseas or others let it lapse and had to get ukara again TBH - think it is all down to club/site/retailer as what they themselves deem regular airsoft player I know I need to play more - think it was getting to nearly 3 months over winter I hadn't played and been a month or more since my last game - lazy sod deffo next Saturday coz I got some guns to break

buy that kit I just edited if you ain't sure you will have hex/allen key and also torx - god damn torx bits so if that driver is long enough - which it should be unless you are really really unlucky to need an extension it should do proud for almost any work on your gun an extension is probably a couple of quid or might have a small extension from another kit/tool box but reckon it "might" just about be long enough as the driver seems a longer than the one in my set (alas that one atm just doesn't quite fit but wtf I'm ordering a set anyway)