Sitting Duck

if it ain't philips it must be an allen key or torx....... the bolt thread size should be M5 thread that goes into the spring guide of gearbox so I am gonna guess 4mm allen key might be required Not saying for absolute deffo this will work but cheap if you are gonna do any work... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolson-28429-51pc-Screwdriver-Bit-Set-Handy-Tool-Kit-Set-Diy-Work-LOW-PRICE-/231521944023?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e7c881d7 HOWEVER - depending on how far down the bolt is the screwdriver may not quite reach without an extension as some buffer tubes mount very close to rear of receiver and others a little closer to stock there are at least two positions in various buffer tubes and the above screw/hex/torx kit may or may not quite reach on its own Still for a fiver delivered it could be worth a look - heck I might get one as I keep losing some bits in my tools

you do realise you are leaving yourself wide open for Airplane Johnny quotes...... I can make hat or a broach or a Pterodactyl..........

I'm not ultra fussy on pin point long range accuracy I tend to have a few sounding targets up my garden..... old metal dustbin - for when I can't hit a barn door @ aprox 65ft old 4pt plastic milk bottle near the bin I think maybe at 70ft I got a tall aerosol can to go for once I think its set up well you can tell by the sounds if you are hitting your targets rather than keep walking back n forth to inspect shots/groupings the deep TANG of dustbin, the THUD of 4pt & the TING of the aerosol can - if I can hit that I'm doing ok in my book (Garden is a awash with funny white wildlife dropping I tell my other half - think I'm going for a gravel path up the back of garden - must use bios)

NO it looks cool and sexy but unless you do cqb I would advise Raider Short I'll explain why as I got or had most budget G&G's...... FireHawk has a battery in its stock tube - $hit battery options and still fiddly to install a 7.4 thin lipo you will be changing battery a bit more and stock has to be removed completely each time.... very short barrel - 110mm ok for short medium fights but really not great for medium & longer fights fps seems to be lower on very shorter barrels so I presume they stuck in a slightly slightly higher spring all the same they then changed the normal FireHawk Gears from regular 18:1 to around 22~23:1 This means the std FireHawk fires slower rate of fire than the other Combat Machines out of box yes you can use higher voltage battery but again where battery is located in stock tube you are screwed a bit FireHawk is loud - sounds good but gets on your nerves all day especially in echoey buildings/tunnels (also gets on ya team nerves but also good when you signal the start of advance - its distinctive n loud) it is more expensive @ £140 and ffs don't get the crappy HC05 DSG version coz that ain't got semi only full auto @ £155 my personal favourites would be either CM18 but has crappy midcap supplied - pure junk over the G&G high caps on other guns or Full Metal GC16 30th edition at Airsoftworld for £150 - not free 2-tone but very sexy snakeskin 2-tone service The CM18 is nice in tan/black but if getting it 2-toned you would ruin it so if not ukara'd perhaps forget CM18 That is just my take on it all - Raider is best cheap budget starter option @ £123 free 2-tone from Zero One GC16 30th - imho better than the G26 30th @ £150 plus 2-tone fee if req CM18 looks nice but only if ukara'd tbh FireHawk's are nice but perhaps not best suited for longer woodland fights imho - more tight cqb/urban skirmish Up to you - nigh on all the same sturdy stuff inside - stay away from sites with BB in their names

For a few quid more get the raider perhaps the short version long version is fine - makes little difference but short is a little more easy to use in tight spaces if doing cqb Reason I say £6 more for Raider is coz it has rails/RIS to attach stuff to like grip etc..... Many get the carbine - great gun btw & Zero One do the slightly shorter "lite" version but then they find out they wanna add bits but no rails on carbine.... Hence the Raider is the most popular G&G starter gun and worth the extra £6 imho Yes everybody has them - but so what if they are common as muck or very popular They are good value starter guns at the end of the day

Fairy Power Spray is about the best safe paint stripper out there Stripped off the thick green 2-tone from a Long Raider RIS and got 99.9% off and still kept the white number markings on the plastic RIS (very very minor specs here n there that you have to really look close in nooks/crannies) But it didn't fly off straight away - it needs a good soak for hour or two and stubborn areas - jeez Zero One really boat that paint on not just outside but had a a good covering right inside too ffs stubborn areas will need more work or even a soak overnight It is safe - I actually left it in soak for 36hrs coz I forgot about it but was fine People use it on loads of stuff - repainting plastic models etc...... But though it is very good it isn't a straight away immediate stripper and won't strip off really thick multiple coats straight away Moderately strong but delicate is what I'd call it about £3:50 at Asda Tesco etc.... - it is an oven cleaner but only get this - Mr Muscle or Dettol oven cleaner is not as good and grab a toothbrush - little baby kids one for tight nooks n crannies - get those from ya local poundlandshop will take a bit of time if you want good results - but that goes for anything in life I guess.... Most of your stuff could be metal so you could just use sand/emery paper to get the worst off But if you got or may still get some other 2-tone stuff it might be a wise consideration to grab a bottle for use on delicate plastic areas - well it not at least you will have a sparkling clean oven

put your hand around the standard M4 flash hider covering them little vents and it deffo makes a louder cracking sound

you will need a torch if you get lost in the darkness saves you running risk of going nose plant into a wall/barricade in pitch black often it is kind of just about ok in gloomy darkness but a few places it can get really pitch black nothing like it though

You have been watching that master of mag filling JambWow - jeez what a clown Today we will be using BULL$HIT bb's available on our website and you simply fill the mag like so.... Oooh f*ck..... way to go chubby - best place for them - on the floor Truth be told I didn't find them BullDog's that bad, FireBall 0.25's jeeez that was absolute dire egg shape bb's reckon 1 in about 6 came out a Jimmy - falling way way short & off course

one of my many things I'd like to do or finish off trouble is I take so long I often get distracted not just on here but start on something else I come across when I look into spares box or whilst browsing for bits OOOooohhh - there you are - right you was supposed to go in that other mofo and so it sets off a chain reaction of guns in bits and stages of tweaks/rebuilds

Just nigh on finished my on/off Raider project..... A while back I looked at short stroking and was reading up wrong info on some sites to take off BACK teeth Armed with this incorrect knowledge I cut of 2 BACK TEETH and was getting weird mofo results effectively by removing the teeth off back it was running fast on a lovely SHS 12:1 set of gears but nozzle didn't have enough time to seal against hop/bucking..... Crap - just boned a nice set of gears up and 12:1 gears are different to normal gears so can't just use an old 18:1 sector So they sat there reminding of yet another one of my failings, screw me taking the first bit of info as gospel... Anyway after another full stroke piston stripped I thought about trying those 12:1 boned gears with bits n bobs and stuff I had learnt from the HC05 DSG so to speak..... I need to get trim up the tappet plate to release earlier so shortened the length of the tappet plate fin but to ensure she opened long enough to feed bb's at higher speed a delay clip would be wise Last week or so all was working but a plastic/steel piston rack stripped at 45rps dry firing straight away - damn it 2 teeth removed btw on piston....... So I used same all metal teeth rack like on DSG but took off 4 teeth and a further 2 teeth on sector at START of sector where it should be removed..... learning by mistakes is good but costly and annoying sometimes To compenstate for 2 more teeth being removed an additional 5mm spacer was added - mainly coz couldn't be ar$ed to look for a m130 or something..... The idea was to build a SSG G&G that would perform faster on 7.4v than the stock HC05 DSG does on 11.1v and it does hit 33rps but that is with some seriously thick mofo wire and a mental neodym motor... it does fire on 11.1v at 45rps but it struggles to feed - well hardly feeds at all due mainly to 2 things.... The tappet plate timing would be better if I hadn't screwed it up in first place for ultra higher speeds plus On assembly I noticed the tappet spring itself was maybe a little lighter than other boxes so that won't be helping at silly speeds But I did what I set out to do and got to make use or good one of my earlier gearbox balls ups I will probably drop the motor to a slightly slower torquey motor and perhaps settle for say 26/27rps for more sensible lasting fun yup it was the horrid green 2-tone one I got cheap a while back - jeez that was fun stripping that off the raiders ris (well technically that box is still stock this was another CM with stripped piston but same meat/gearbox) To get to this stage meant I screwed up LOADS of times but have learnt not to go too nutz like I say will probably drop a slightly slower torquey motor in there to keep her at 26rps ish and hopefully last a while

ooooooh ya cow..... tell ya what when your Krytac breaks I lend you my B500A1 if I had just one good higher end gun to hand people would really see how bad I suck at this malarky

I've only been once last summer but do intend to pop back as it warms up - it is nice & cool down there so I don't sweat quite as much full on and very dark - but is deffo different and the Tunnel Rats are in a league of their own but very very good sports I found... not everybody's cuppa tea but should be experienced can't go tomorrow as I'm baby sitting my youngest but maybe in the next month I might return to be lit up again

Think I will keep raider as is for now if a GC16 front end comes up a cheap price but no biggy if not its got the rails but tbh I mainly keep my stuff stock externally atm it is a puzzler though - where do you start & where do you stop ????

yeah I found the funnels or some spouts were crap and my fingers and a bit of care worked best had a few like 500 or 1k bottle with poxy spouts that dribble half a dozen, clog, shakey shakey, oh ffs.... might try the robinsons bottle maybe - them fruit shoot ones but will make sure they are empty & clean etc.... but my fingers or hand cupped around mags to guide the pouring works well enough most of time

then just a cheapo plastic/polymer pair on top rail will suffice I mean it is just a CM plastic toy gun at end of day slap on a scopey thingy and all that but don't spend loads n loads tbh remove rear sight - fit cheapo ones as long as they ain't too wobbly and be done with it

Don't them sticky wet bb's clog up in ya barrel ??? soz just being a bell-end as per usual

Not me - I'm in it for fun and all that.... Jay83 and some others go into it a bit more seriously maybe Surrey/Kent way but think it is 18+ the stuff the more serious lot do.... I'm a pratt but my 15yr old kicks my ar$e around (not that difficult) but alas he is just a pup to play in the bigger boys league atm

you got long or short Raider coz not sure exactly how that fits on the present barrel that is the sort of front sight on GC16 30th - easy to detach I was thinking if not mounting flip sights on raider's top rail then perhaps these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Barrel-Mount-with-4x-5-slot-20mm-Picatinny-Weaver-Rail-Free-Post-in-UK-/171387341608?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27e77b4b28 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-cm-Length-Universal-Single-Rail-Barrel-Mount-KHM-Airsoft-/221518546059?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339388c48b jeeeez they are taking the mick: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-profile-Quad-rail-Gas-Block-for-75-19mm-Barrel-for-Airsoft-/291311450182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d383f846 then add flip or detachable front sight as needed only thing - not sure if any of those mini rail mounts are maybe too high for detachable sight and most likely way too low for flip sight

I store mine next to the oven by the TNT, drums of petrol & 9mm blanks not at my house - at my in-laws

yes but up unitl a week or two ago I thought it was held on there like most "proper M4's" but it is cast or welded on so gotta be cut off now there are mounts that could clamp on outer barrel and fit a stubby removable sight but likely you will fit just the usual flip ones if fitting a scope or something else on there Shame its welded on there coz was hoping to remove sight at front and fit a folding M4 sight on there http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ArmyCode-41-B-Style-Front-Folding-Clamp-On-Iron-Sight-for-M4-M16-AR-Airsoft-AEG-/281307488120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item417f3b9f78 but alas the Raider sight is welded on there so that pi$$ed on my firework too

7.4v will be same as 8.4v nimah's really 11.1v will be - f*ck me that is good but need to watch it ain't too crazy on stock gun 9.9v Life is happy medium but range & choice is very poor compared to lipo (plus I really think life's don't have the flow through of juice on really beefy upgraded guns that lipo's can deliver) may not notice much difference if any on 7.4v but you will later on if you need some upgrade grunt from your battery The B3 or B3 clone is just a plug n charge - there ain't much else to it they are ok, some clones can fail and only charge one cell but not others All the same - welcome to next gen of power cells Now how am I gonna get the USS Enterprise's Dilithium crystal wired up to that mosfet in time for next game She'll no take it captain - the grip is hotter than the suns of vulcan (God bless ya Scotty)

whatever scope works ok or a bit taller to get over a fixed sight up front if your M4A1 has one still still using old iron sights but then my aim is crap so its my excuse if I fail to hit big barns etc...

charge them on a worktop not dining table/carpet/bed eg in a utility room where washing machine might be located or in a safe less used area of kitchen not on carpet or bed - not just lipo but any battery or charging stuff due to possible heat if you mark the oak or mahogany dining table don't blame me formica worktop/bench in garage or something - old dinner mat at a real push but proper kitchen worktop is best durable option I think to withstand marks n heat etc.... as always - keep an eye on anything charging store them in a nice shady area with picturesque views listening to soothing music awaken them gently from their slumber asking them nicely if they feel like going airsoft today just anywhere away from heat - but not the fridge freezer - general common sense I guess once charged they are primed so they must be used within 180 seconds or they explode - kidding most charge them night before game

some cup or lid thing is best to use on filling hi-caps but always use my hand at back of m4 mag to act as a human guide/funnel reckon on 99 to 100% success rate if I'm not rushed to go back out depends on mag's opening tbh - some are more friendly to fill up than others its all a question of choice n preference and what works best for you.... Ultimate quick refill the night/morning before game... big bag or sack of bb's, the mofo sack I mean, - drop mag in there and is filled in seconds mags filled, now a big cup/measuring cup - top up a resealable 5k bag & speedloaders for mid caps Job done - we bought a big sack of Elite Force 0.20's from LWA ages ago they are not bad, but prefer now to use 0.25's