Sitting Duck

in short there isn't many places in the house that ISN'T my workspace kitchen table - dining table - even a big wide window sill Where are we gonna eat they say ???? MacDonalds ffs - don't touch my stuff it is all arranged in methodical chaotic order

deans must be done - that is main bottleneck - then thicker wire & ensure motor contacts are good and extra solder on the connector "bends" (g36 probably doesn't have the connectors bent over like on M4 V2 box/motor - they are probably straight connection to motor) heck if you are really power crazy you could solder thicker wires to neodym motor for ultimate connection but only if your a freak like me

9.9v life is the modern bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo but think life's are great for stock & mild tweak guns but don't have the raw grunt a 25/30c lipo has on a beefed gun depends on battery space available get a decent capacity 7.4v than a moderate 11.1v get the internals sorted and she will fire like f*ck with lipo's supplying as much juice as she can want in a nutshell it is mainly about decent wire/mosfet/deans and then making bevel turn quick & snappy

Scrap the blowback option.... http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?258993-G-amp-G-MP5-cracked-gearbox Seems like mp5's have this problem and might be wise to consider a normal box instead

I was a twat at first game - still am but a few like was that a hit, dead man talking etc...... mainly due to being so pumped up & excited at my first time Please be gentle with me - I was a virgin.... After a very nooby ar$ehole first game I got it sussed and understood the basic guidelines etc.... Also helps though it ain't an excuse, if you turn up for morning briefing rather than like me when I just showed up for afternoon walk on with little time for a run through on it all The biggest lie as usual is me telling missus - this is deffo the last gun I need to buy (along with the other lie - yes I am gonna sell the other one soon)

Yup - if playing with different barrels n buckings - it is wise to get another hop unit whilst you are at it if your old barrel/hop is ok-ish then just remove it and leave it, quite easy to tear the bucking/hop rubber if removing get the other barrel assembled with another hop up and bucking - simple swap over if results are crap you still got the old complete barrel/hop to fall back on all still ready to go Tight Bore Barrels can alter - well they usually add 15 to 20fps some hop ups work better than others in some guns and not so great in others buckings - new improved ones can get fitted badly and tear when you strip to re-assemble again hence a wise consideration is to mess with a new setup perhaps before stripping and making a mess of old kinda working ok-ish stock barrel/hop

another gun added to my "When I'm worthy..." list

I doubt it M4 wise and these are sold out at Zero One & Land Warrior Airsoft read the reviews at all websites - owners appear to be very happy could still get a Raider 2-toned free @ £123 from Zero One but this 30th edition is worth a look - the front sight can be removed easily leaving a completely clear top rail for scopes etc... (Raider front sight fixed on permanently) not loads of rails like Raider but you get 3 x mini bolt on ones for grips n stuff

blimey - I got a note from database saying mine expires in a months time 2hrs later I got another email saying I've been updated already guess my local site just did it there n then when they opened as they got their own small online shop to add to database last year I was moaning they were dragging their heals a bit but well pleased this time didn't go today - been well over 6 weeks maybe 8 but just wanted to mention a big fanx (next time chaps I'll be there helping to support my local site - fanx again)

rule of thumb if you are skirmishing with ANY gun... Know your gun's range/limits - no point opening fire on an enemy way outside you or your gun's range sounds obvious but myself included get involved sometimes in battles way beyond what me & enemy can hit each other If your gun can't reach that bloke then why open fire until he gets within range unless you are in range of his sniper/dmr/better gun then move your ar$e

agreed 2-tone G&G might be just a stepping stone if you get into it but if a newcomer stays or quits after 6, 12, 18 months..... Raider £123 plus battery charger etc..... (now if the battery/charger sourced seperately and say bought 2 x batteries - 7.4v lipo's could save money) But anyway - say for arguments sake £175 all in cost of gun n battery charger OP quits or gets ukara and thinks flog Raider..... £100 quick sale all in or maybe a bit more light skirmish use and hardly used ??? 3 x hire guns would of cost him about £25 a pop = £75 to get ukara'd now op would be f*cked with some "BB" guns - if they lasted that long but a Raider should hold up well and hold its value a bit or be worth keeping as spare backup gun so perhaps a 2-tone G&G is a worthy consideration even if user might get ukara'd and go for a RIF later on (well I think it ain't unwise - but another crappy aeg gun from BB sites is deffo not a wise long term investment)

G&G M4's are what you want Zero One & a G&G Raider - tough decision the long or short barrel version ? 2-tone is free of charge - most places charge for 2-toning or if you are one of those people that MUST have a metal M4 (even though the polymer abs G&G Combat Machines are the dogz nutz) http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html now you have to pay a bit for the two-tone but they do a nice snake-skin 2-tone on this full metal mofo Those are my 2 top choices for buying a 2-tone starter M4 if you get ukara'd as we say - then you can go nutz on an all black or tan Realistic Imitation Firearm.... But be warned buying these rif toys can get very addictive but there is 2 great 2-tone starters for you

You could use a 9.6v or a 9.9v LiFe Both will give a stock gun/motor a little boost But when you start tweaking guns nimah not so good And the LiFe's are seem to lose their zest on Highly tweaked guns providing very little improvement over the 7.4v lipo's I recently found out Stock and mild tweak they provide a mid range boost option between 7.4 & 11.1v lipo's But for some really weird reason it don't show up on really beefy wires n motor guns ???

Depends on how many fet's you need to buy/make/fit To make just one it may not be worth buying and making it, though whilst you solder in any ready made fetbthe iron is on anyway so a few more ttzzzssstt's ain't much more agro to put your own fet together. Hence if you got it all ready may as well make up 2 or 3 basic fet's I guess. The baby baby micro firestorm fet is worth considering basic non AB fet but £10 delivered ain't bad for a one off fet. As for bells n whistle fet's - guess it is up to everyone what they fit/use in the end

Good 3034 can be built for half that price -£2:25 if you buy say 10 genuine ones Avoid any mosfet's from fleabay China component sellers They are fakes and just melt under load £2:25 will cover gen 3034, diode, 2 resistors All you need is time - put a few together at same time Decent wire n shrink wrap Best basic 3034 is your own one if its genuine Failing that firestorm £10 baby micro fet is worth a look if peeps just need a good basic tiny fet

No coz most setups will not really really need them Plus it puts a minor strain on motor and the Rusty's guide has stopped recommending them but left info for reference only Got a few 4045's or whatever the position fet's are to go with my 3034's but as of yet if done correctly a high rof gun most likely not needed. It seems to be said a m120 & SS a couple of teeth is better way to stop double cycle and also help avoid PE Which an AB fet doesn't help when firing on full auto For most builds an AB is perhaps not needed is my feeling

The shs gen 4 gear sets are bloody gorgeous The bevel has plenty of tooth width when shimming to spur gear so plenty of room to shim bevel high and spur low etc..... runs smooth too - a very nice cost effective set of gears I don't think you can shorten the trigger pull too much even with a speed trigger, coz the switch has to go far enough to engage contacts and be in correct place for cut off to yank the switch upwards to shoot back on semi and the trigger itself has to come back far enough to relatch onto switch again..... what you could consider is to trim the trigger's spring a little to make the trigger pull lighter not where spring enters the trigger but the other end resting against gearbox shell to tension however you really need to trim that spring only a little at a time and go easy or you balls it up and will need a new trigger spring if cut too short to operate properly not quite the same but trigger will activate a tiny smidge quicker due to the lighter trigger spring (this is on a std M4 v2 gearbox - not done this on a v3 box btw)

std aeg hits say 13rps on 7.4v Mosfet on its own does f*ck all if using stock small tamiya and stock wiring (it is when the deans & rewired with thicker wire you get a 15% increase - the fet does nothing but stops contacts arcing) The fet in fact is an additional device that will take a few nano or milliseconds to trigger.... anyway deans fet & rewire will get that 13rps to say 15rps on stock motor on stock gears add in a neodym motor and that can add on anything from 10% on a slow torquey Big Dragon M140 (don't bother buying imho) to a whopping 50% over stock motor I've done this quite a few times recently to have a rough idea of what to expect recent DSG FireHawk went from say 22 stock to 27 nearly on fet deans rewire but was higher due to going from 18:1 gear to 16:1 (just under 10% gear ratio increase - actually 8% coz 16:1 is worst set out there @ 17.28:1 not expected 16.35 like 12:1 (12.65:1 actual ratio) from 27 it went to 41 with a BD m160 motor on 7.4v Anyway back to std aeg - now at say 15rps coz rewired etc.... add in a neo motor - pi$$ poor slow 10% to whippy 50% and you looking at about 17.5 to say 22.5 rps on 7.4v that output will be a decent improvement and won't double cycle at all or completely safe to avoid PE if using the stock ferrite motor it may not stop so quickly as a neodym motor with stronger magnets and "might" cycle twice if run at higher 11.1v reaching 22.5rps on ferrite with 11.1v lipo but I doubt it unless spring is worn or under m90 test each upgraded box on 7.4v first and then expect to see around a 50% increase on that figure when using the beefier 11.1v so with neo at 17.5 to 22.5 you could see 26 to 34rps on 11.1v neo motor setup on stock gears again the aprox 30rps figure should be very carefully considered as PE risk really increases at that point on stock boxes with full stroke pistons These are simply cautionary figures and warnings - as each box/build can be a bit different to my findings/examplesbut being I have smashed a few boxes up by pushing them too much I feel I need to just mention the risks of going nutz 20rps once fetted deans etc... and decent neo motor like shs torque or BD M160 when you change gears depending on what you use will increase further but the really higher speed gears will make the motor work harder of course so it needs to be up to it and not a weaker speed motor or it will run warm on doing extra work 14:1 could be to me a nice easy balance to increase ratio speeds and push up rof say 25% aprox without too many other PE or double cycle risks etc..... Bear in mind the faster you gun fires the increase in wear will likely arise and I firmly think a rof of 25 is nice figure or limit to hit without making more work when upgrading eg: shortstroking and higher springs There is a great additional thread full of wisdom but remember to not fully take it as 101% gospel as we in uk have much lower limits than the yanks over the pond with their higher fps limits so though they say this n that will be fine and use a m120 full stroke - that will put us well over limits @ 393.6fps and m100/105 is what our std aeg springs are or we go up & shortstroke a tooth or two (each tooth removed will reduce fps by aprox 6% of initial fps (or multiply 393.6 fps by 0.94) eg: 394 x 0.94 = 370, 370 x 0.94 = 347.8 if removing 2 teeth of rear of piston & START of sector gear anyway soz doing Open University maths bollox - the link..... http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/

A word of caution if building that spec box.... use 7.4v ffs NOT 11.1v to test fire it that spec build will be hitting 25 to 30rps on 7.4v 25c lipo You connect an 11.1v to that box without doing more work I will guarantee two things It will deffo double cycle on semi unless an AB mosfet fitted (may even start to double cycle now n then on 7.4v) As 11.1v is 50% more juice that 7.4v (3 cells rather than 2 x 3.7v cells) it will run at nigh on 50% faster...... eg: 37 to 45rps and at that speed your new piston will DEFFO Pre Engage and strip out say teeth 5, 4 & 3 PE can take place at around 30rps upwards on stock spring & piston (it "can" get very close to PE at 25rps but only if your piston is very heavy or sluggish (binding a bit inside the box)) Some torque motors are not much faster than stock ferrite motors - perhaps the ZCI one but can pull a tank Others are quite torquey but very quick too like shs or Big Dragon M160 so it is difficult to guess what your rps might be coming in at but I firmly believe it would be in the 25-30 range on 12:1 gears on 7.4v Having recently shredded 2 pistons by taking the pi$$ a bit I strongly urge you to go easy when testing that build An AB fet will stop the double cycle on semi but won't do jack to stop PE on full auto The last piston to shred on 11.1v was actually short stroked 2 teeth on a m115-m120 spring but at 45+ it didn't make the 2nd round on full auto 31.5 on 7.4v but smashed f*ck on 11.1v maybe 14:1 gears, m110 spring and the shs blue 3 steel tooth is lovely n light @11.5gms, remove 1 tooth off piston/sector up to you what you chuck in there but seriously test on 7.4v first and depending on results and how much you did your homework.... then decide if she might be ok to risk it on 11.1v with an aprox 50% higher rof

for the folding under stock you need a different receiver.... the one you might have has the hole/mounts at rear of receiver for normal ak stock or m4 stock tube the folding underneath stock has the other type of receiver without rear hole/mount and round holes just above pistol grip at receiver's sides for folding understock or a compact stockless cqb mofo http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152189393-JG0510MG.html what you could do is fit a m4 stock adapter on there and then a full size m4 fixed stock and shove in a 5000mah battery never have to worry about changing battery again - though Ian may ban you for life though - go on I dare ya

if all else fails refit old old outer barrel the new barrel could be pushing the hop unit a smidge further back so that the nozzle doesn't clear the magwell and allow a bb to enter hop unit (even 0.5mm difference will cause feed problems - heck probably 0.25mm would) if old barrel feeds then it might be a case of comparing the two outers and carefully filing the new barrel a slither to get the hop to sit correctly forward and allowing bb's to enter hop To far forward though and you lose a good seal from nozzle to bucking - it is a very fine line sometimes it could be a tiny little burr on the cut-out or grooves for hop unit or it could be a burr or slightly thicker lip or rim of the outer barrel that is throwing out the final position of hop unit end of the day it may probably need to have both outers - side by side and make very very close comparisons and I mean very very very close comparisons - your'e lucky you got only a small concentrated area to diagnose change a few bits at once or build something from scratch and you could be looking at half a dozen headaches coz you can't exactly pinpoint as they didn't all work together ok previously...... Hence now many of us have learnt when changing the smallest part you really really need to examine and compare first AND STILL I GET AEG MIGRANES yes follow Lozart's advice but if all else fails swap back outer barrels n see if she still fires

Right removed it all - the last grey start of barrel was a bit tricky to get off remove the front black lock ring and the start of the 3 piece outer barrel comes off looks to like a normal M4 outer barrel should go in there and do up with the black lock ring ris will bolt onto the front of receiver and seems pretty sturdy anyway (could leave off the fake silver gas tube as you hardly see it or refit) all that would be required is a way to perhaps secure the front of the ris but many of them are not fully secured at front though they normally have fixings at 12, 3 6 & 9 o'clock - but the raider's ris is not very long so it "might" be ok with being fixed at just the one end Now I have my long raider in bits - I can see about removing the 2-tone of the ris but as I work shifts I gotta hit the sack but given you a possible do-able idea/notion however look around on youtube or google up "raider" outer barrel replacement or strip down see if some others chime in that have already done this but looks quite feasible atm to me

Blow me - your right - my bad just check on mine and they are not held in like most other outer m4a1's ah well finally figured out how to remove the bloody front end off me raider 2 allen keys and the outer barrel front end slides off Ahhh - now I see what you mean...... can not say a normal outer barel or front end go on there without messing up how the raider's ris is mounted it should be do-able but I will have to look into this in more exact detail I'd hate to give you more incorrect info was sure at first glance it was like other M4's with the sight held on there but yes it is all part of the casting or welded on there even has the appearance of the pins but they are not real pins when you look in close detail my bad soz for incorrect info

Raider - Long barrel version - aprox 363 inner barrel front sight is held on by 2 pins underneath that need to be carefully tapped out or drill (very carefully) vids on youtube show how to dismantle the front end ris and replace if need an inbetween 300mm barrel (always thought Raider was either a smidge too long or a smidge too short but that is just me liking the 275/300 lengths as an all rounder size) you got a full m4/16 rear sight with handle on there so I presume you are looking at fitting a cheap pair of flip sights and/or scope of some sort yup do-able and compatible - me I perhaps remove and leave barrel lengths or go for a medium raider build perhaps I'd leave the ris etc as it is coz time you buy another ris etc.... it will still be a s/hand cm raider I think that is what you are after - removing the front sight which should just slide off front of barrel/gun after popping 2 pins heck you could replace it with a flip front M4 sight - same as what is on there but it folds down/up Ahh the joys of making your gun your own - so many options, but go easy as you can easily spend loads on a gun's accessories/attachments

What version CM16 - carbine / raider long short lite etc....... what exactly do you seek to achieve - it is do-able btw but how much/far do you go ???? What I mean is if you have a carbine - front wired and you seek to put on say a ris like raider or mk18 then you may need to rethink or rewire to rear battery or peq box up front plus if buying a ris probably metal version and new outer & inner barrel perhaps then you may just wanna consider getting a raider/mk18 and selling the carbine - that was what I was meaning btw or if you have a raider say long version and wanting a shorter version with flip sights etc..... yes you could sell the old m4a1 carbine front end for a bit but those are very common perhaps if you have a carbine look for maybe a ris handguard & peq box might be cheaper/simpler/easiest options if you enlighten us with exact cm16 model it would help and what you seek to make it into or look like