Sitting Duck

if you are testing water or starting out then I can vouch for these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Osprey-6-Pc-Pad-Combo-Set-Guards-Protection-Quads-Inline-Skateboards-Bike-ADULT-/190995531478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2c783886d6 heck I know they are a full set but suppose you can give adult elbow pads to a younger player perhaps often it is hard to find large adult osprey - most of time they are large kids or teenagers which ain't the same they slip on ya jeans/trousers as well as velcro straps top/bottom of pad the result is they stay up better than some others that end up sliding down round your ankles like a tarts knickers

deffo looks to running slightly downwards to me I'm no scope mofo but have a fairly good eye for straight/true/balance as I work in print Plus I have very very serious ocd on crap like this - lol deffo looks to me to be tipping downwards no matter how I look at it, well maybe... - no it is tipping downwards take a pic of the other side - must be a way of packing a washer between something/mount/part of scope I'm no mofo on this maybe the others can help or Ian if he has had one of these scopes must be able to adjust something on scope/mount/gun or something giz a pic of other side but I will let the more experienced mofo's carry on with ideas of what needs to be done

Minor small update........... (well small update from me) Fitted the King Kong 2 burst wizard mosfet - I'm impressed Finally got semi - good old single shot back, took a bit of messing about with settings Yeah it took a little while to figure out and get the hang of it but kinda made sense in the end (Thank f*ck they got a reset to default option coz screwed it up a couple of times and don't know wtf I was altering but got all sorts of crap) She is firing one shot very well - but due to ooomph reqired she don't like 25c 7.4v's to fire on single needs 30c or above to work properly on semi or she only part compresses spring/precocks (had a go at a few settings in #7 but had to settle for 30c battery) Good thing is it can be used for close up engagements but must remember to release trigger after single shot or she full auto's @ 40rps - mind you could be handy for reminding non-hit takers (delay time can be adjusted but seems about right on default) Pity G&G dropped semi and had to use this mofo for single shot Yes it is a fet - IRL3034 and is wired in, clipped the small tamiya and replaced with deans, then fitted the trigger signal wire It has loads of features - once you get your head round the programming. All I did was change the burst option #2 from default 3 to 1 single shot then adjust the timings in option #7 - had to go to 18 but got here to fire single very nicely at last Cheers to Airsoftworld - they sell these and on some guns you get crazy offer to buy one of these at under £10 You would be mad not to take them up on this offer - even if like me you had it in ya spares box for a while It does seem to work, but does need tweaking especially if you change to different batteries on tweaked guns unsure if everybody will benefit from it at full price of £35 aprox but all the same if you grab it at £9:95 offer it will be worth it in my book Finally finished it all, no longer the VS02 stock, now has a fixed stubby stock on there inside is the KKII burst fet and a 2200mah 7.4v block type lipo 30c atm, but looking about for max capacity/burst options

Cheap 416 by D-Boys, no trademarks but cheaper than WE 416, needs a tweak but @ £140 I can't say no did have one but lost it, found later in my son's armoury - bloody kids

usually lipo's tend to come in small tamiya, deans or XT connectors it is the older bigger cell nimah's that tend to use large tamiya's or stock guns with big fixed stocks On large tamiya to small tamiya conversion - be careful some cheap adapters that go from large to small can have the red/black ar$e about face coz from memory the "round" plug is different small tamiya - round plug is red/positive & square is black/negative but large tamiya - round is black/negative & square is red/positive some of the cheap pre-wired adapters out there have them incorrect - no biggy on the adapter you use pin and pop the wires out and swap over but you are still using the small tamiya and that is what chokes the flow of juice - especially when you tweak them a bit if you can solder - look up some guides on you tube - cut & solder each wire ONE AT A TIME, don't cut both at same time = short = BANG dead lipo with that alone you should gain 1rps on stock - aprox 8%, and tiny better trigger response don't sound like much on stock but big difference if you tweak it more later - honest

7.4v would be wiser than long term 11.1v use (trigger arcing/carbon build up over time) an added little boost can be obtained if you converted to deans T-Plug from small tamiya plugs

Nice one, but don't think that camo is working on that table I have a Bi-8001 on its way but was very tempted to try a biggy 25

G&G mid caps are hit n miss at best - which they should not be for the price some iffy or under performing mid-caps can be made to feed better - stretch spring, washed bb's, magwell tape etc..... I would not buy G&G mid caps again, but am more of a hi-cap wind up merchant But whatever mags you get there are a lot of crap ones out there too I have bought a couple of boxes LWA's Dytac Bravo Hi Caps and been very pleased with them alas they are out of stock now but best cheapy hi-cap I have come across so far (loads of crappy hi-caps that feed 5 or 6 then wind like f*ck)

Probably more SNP in Parliment - they didn't get every seat As for other leaders resigning - they just following the example set after the Scottish vote I'm done - like I said most of UK wouldn't want the goverment we got - The public UK or Scottish are thick as $hit A bit of a shock to all the so called experts - jeez should of put a bet on I reckon - would be the most I got out Cameron for a while Seriously - it's done and I'm going back to more serious stuff like peee peee peeoww with my toy guns

I was impressed with them on stock guns but tbh I recently found out their 20c rating let them down a bit on tweaked beefed up guns Either that or they are crapping out on me - but deffo didn't provide the expect bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo's They deffo did provide the gap on stock guns and mildly tweaked guns eg: stock gears & neo motor and silver wire gun 7.4v = 20rps 9.9v = 25rps 11.1v = 30rps this is rough figure of a fet'd deans CM18 with SHS motor etc..... BUT on higher build guns with thicker wire and seeking more juice (which thicker 15awg wire would supply) like the FH HC05 total stock wise it was hitting 22 & 33 on 11.1v - but when tested the Life 9.9v it wasn't much more than the 7.4v ???? the lipo's were 25c the life was a 20c but didn't hit the expected say 27 but nigh on same or +1 over 7.4v 25c I mega tweaked the DSG and got 40 on 7.4v and thought leave it there and forget 11.1v and knew the LiFe would really struggle to supply real oooommmppphhhhh now when it wasn't quite cutting the stock dsg demands on short stroke m160 spring in there so yeah I am not so sure about LiFe's now on more juice or burst demanding setups as they only go to 25c - usually 20c is norm stock or mild setups yeah they could be a good option to not cane your gun/contacts if not fet'd beefier setups - ergh no, do it properly and use/try 30c 7.4v lipo's is my feeling/findings at this moment in time Think lipo's have improved and I haven't yet burnt my house down just yet Think LiFe's were mainly thought to not suffer the possible damage risk like lipo's if you run them out of juice on LiPo's if they drop too low volts they can die - LiFe's are not supposed to do this if they get drained I was lead to think but never leave any battery unchecked and charge them on a worktop/bench not on bed/carpet & pop out up the road/shops

Gonna try an angled foregrip soon as some say they are really comfy & very steady in use (the way I shoot, I need all the help I can get)

lol - don't tell me, you bought up some of their old nimah's when they upgraded to lipo actually we do still use the 9.6v nimah's, hence me bought a few LiFe's @ 9.9v but recently found out the LiFe's have limited range of size/shape and only go to 20c or 25c max LiPo's - bloomin' loads n loads of types/shapes/sizes/ratings to choose from

agreed - its the service as well that also counts and if they swap battery then they got extra kudos points from all on here too just saying if you was thinking of buying/upgrading yours & ya m8's nimahs at some point hobbyking are worth a look if you club together

Hobbyking - end of What peeps need to do is get a few of your m8's to club together Hopefully you can order up some of the same beefy types that fit in ya guns coz if you go onto that page - wait leave page and discount offer pops up - aprox 8% offer but if navigate away the offer won't come back - well it will if you reboot pc or use other pc this offer may work on 1 type of battery discount - if ordering 3 types of lipo's you may only get discount on 1 of the 3 types anyway they ship mainly from 3 places UK - but they don't seem to stock crane/nunchuck/ or "airsoft batteries" Airsoft or nunchuck seem to only come from europe or worldwide - usually hong kong depots Look carefully at link/stock locations - worldwide is cheapest but shipping is more/time to arrive UK is quickest of course but prices are highest per battery I ordered what I thought was Europe batteries but order was placed in hong kong and took over 3 weeks luckily it got through ok - phew no duty paid to robbing bastids RM Also it seems UK & Worldwide has shipping weight bands of up to 1kg then shipping jumps a bit However - Europe/Netherlands the shipping don't jump - heck I made up a 6kg+ shopping cart and shipping was still same as 950gms (no I didn't buy that many batteries - jeeez) Europe might be best option for AIRSOFT stick/nunchuck batteries as UK don't do them it seems won't get clobbered with chance of importy duty from hong kong - should be ok but still a chance with china stuff plus shipping from europe is say 5 days instead of 3 weeks say from hong kong PAY VERY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO DIMENSIONS - use a digital micrometer/gauge to suss out what may/may not fit get a m8 or a few m8's to go in with ya to split shipping - then you can get some mofo batteries very very cheaply test out a few of your m8's 7.4v 25c lipo's first - no need to rush out and go nutz on loads of lipo's just yet see the results for yourself and go from there - if they got a 25c 7.4v I think you should be happy with the results if gun wired up nicely

Nope - could always ring them and see if they can exchange or part ex it say you really thought your gun was fully lipo ready and ordered it in good faith but it busted my gun..... they may then consider swapping it for one of their 7.4v's rather than no way it has been used/charged so warranty void etc..... worth a shot failing that keep it or ebay it try n see which of their 7.4v's would fit/work with best C & mah ratings in your gun's battery compartment (or other gun's battery compartment) then give them a bell - can only ask I fit them stubby stocks on my M4's as it means I can then shove in almost any block type batteries These block batteries are cheaper than the more bespoke "airsoft" nunchuck/stick type batteries plus have a massive choice of size/shape/ratings to choose from as well as less fiddling about changing them at lunchtime if you try out a 7.4v and are happy with results then run with 7.4v if/when nimah's start to get old or sell on the nimah's anyway if you are happy with 7.4v's then there would be no real need to go nutz short stroking on that gun if she is ok (if it ain't broke don't try to fix or tweak it is the motto we all should remember) But if you end up keeping the 11.1v then maybe your next gun upgrade can use that and look into short stroking another tweaked gun the results would be a massive difference eg: old gun you broke hitting 27rps on 7.4v next gun leave in stock gears but 11.1v & neodym motor = 30rps say or 40 if you do 12:1 but doing 40rps means paying for new set of gears, new piston with 3 or half teeth plus more modding all to go from 30 to 40 and pretty sure possible shorten the life span a little at that high 30 to 40 speed (that is dsg performance and those dsg boxes don't last as long as decent stock boxes no matter how much you spend on building it)

check your mags can feed at silly speeds - remember faster rof = shorter life (usually) trigger response & rof "kind of" go hand in hand though YES THEY ARE DIFFERENT - before anybody flames me but they are "kind of linked" in the way a 40rps gun will fire/respond much quicker than a 20rps Good decent lipo's piss all over the old skool - them nimah's don't have the ooomph that decent higher burst lipo's have when you pull the trigger mental techy's go for 40-60c+ lipo's but for a tweaked gun you should aim for 25c min, pref 30c should be fine for most a good lipo - check the burst or C rating will ensure she is supplied with enough juice off the trigger and if your wire is upgraded it will keep chucking juice to that greedy motor and run much better than 8.4v - honest I have bought some 11.1v's and also some 9.9v LiFe's too but if I tweak the gun properly I can't see me using the higher batteries that much when good 7.4v's provide great results, plus can get the 7.4v's cheaper and coz they aren't so fat as 11.1v's I can get higher burst/amp batteries in same space/price range as 11.1v batteries your gun is fluctuating a bit though 330 - 370 maybe 38 - you mean 380 - that is quite a bit check all seals - especially piston's o-ring & cylinder head is mega good 370 or 380 - yeah that ain't no m100 in there

Go with two teeth first as all gun builds are different, if you really really want to short stroke if you are just a tad tad over say up to 360/365 then you "could" leave her cocked over weekend to lose a bit of tension then you "may" get to 350 after she lost some spring tension perhaps to remove 3 may be a tiny bit too much and you can't put teeth back on also each spring and deffo each gun is different - shs m120's may be more like a m125 brand new out of box I also think unless you are sure your G&G spring may not quite be hitting 350 especially if it was still old stock G&G spring (usually they hit 330 out of box and drop a little more after a while) to remove 3 teeth you gotta get a half steel/plastic one - and you know not to get a full metal tooth piston I gotta ask this though: How friggin' fast do you want to shoot ??? Are your mags gonna feed ok at near 40rps ??? plus there comes a point when you won't notice such an increase eg: 15 to 20rps - deffo notice but 35 to 40rps not really easy to notice the difference me personally get a 3 metal piston and get gun working on nimah's see if you can try out a 30c 7.4v for a while - maybe that would be safer nearer 30 than mental 40 with all the work and possible mag feed issues, plus if you stay sensible then you can just pop in new piston and get going again without all the extra work for higher speed Higher speed builds - especially the more crazy stuff will require lighter pistons and plastic pom piston heads lose piston bearing & swiss cheese (in moderation) - this all reduces weight to help piston return quickly me I avoid piston bearings - they can come undone but also that is about 3.5gms saved by dropping bearings use a bearing spring guide instead to avoid spring twist - same as piston bearing but means piston is lighter avoid heavier alluminium piston heads in very high speed builds as they can weigh 6 or 7gms on the double O-ring kind a full complete piston can weigh 15gms to 30gms on full metal piston with bearings & double O-ring piston head, all that extra weigh gained/lost can make quite a difference to how quick the piston returns so unless you want to do more homework and all that - I'd try a 7.4v 30c battery first perhaps And if you are sailing that close to wind or PE you do NOT want a full metal piston half/half would be max - especially as we both are still learning you must have a weak point in your box - the plastic pick up & first few teeth at least if she PE's you do minor damage usually just to piston full metal & PE = MEGA BAAAAAANNNNNNNGGGGGGGGG yes higher speed builds can/do use metal for strength and long life piston but they have well n truely short stroked or using only half the teeth like 8 steel teeth on DSG's - but they know what they are doing Us noobs learning by our mistakes or rather breaks are not so talented and clever techy mofo's so best play safe I know I do talk bollox most of the time but trust me I have learnt a bit lately by making many mistakes too especially when taking the piss a bit

Good cheap brands is what does work really well Lots of crappy cheap brands out there if you make an unwise decision

If you was local I'd lend you mine m8 when ya ready to do final test TBH - that setup you got/had will give out aprox 27rps on a decent 7.4v lipo (not just from maths but Sp00n did the very same setup with 13:1 fet/deans etc... on 7.4v) if anything I know it sounds bollox but very few instances would absolutely demand 11.1v you could hit 30+ on 12:1 with thick wire/deans/fet and also extra solder on motor connectors at the "elbow" Then with that there would be very very little resistance in the wiring so max juice is ensured to motor best fet install is to do the wiring in one wire from motor to battery deans on positive then only time negative breaks is at fet, fet signal supply spliced from positive so the wire loom is as full & unbroken/least connectors as possible I feel if you got a good say 30c 7.4v 3000mah battery you would of still got an improved rof without shreading piston you went from say 18:1 stock gears of 20rps with fet/motor to 27 on 13:1 though on old skool nimah you may not of hit this and got only 23 (nimah's don't have the same burst or C or oooomph that lipo's can have) then the extra cell took the 27 you would of got on say a 25c 7.4v lipo to 50% more = 40rps = bang !!!!!!!! Also what we all need to remember is that your box will have a probable life - just like car eg: 100,000 miles or shots - this is just a rough figure but lets say 100k by firing at 40rps and driving a car at max speed screaming through the gears you will hit that xxx figure much quicker Well in actual fact your gun/car may only reach 60 or 70k if you take the piss It is most likely not a super duper cnc reinforced box so it ain't designed to be pushed that far for too long anyway especially as a starter box shoots at say 15rps - you start to get the idea now that going too fast may not be wise in long run get gun working again with another piston (plastic 1 metal or 3 metal max) go to your site - chrono and shoot away at lunch as a m8 if they got a good 7.4v lipo on deans etc....... can I just borrow that 25c/30c 7.4v a sec please...... pop that in your gun and I'm pretty sure you will see/hear a slight increase in response/performance over the nimah if happy and she don't break - then perhaps get a good juicy 30c 7.4v instead of 11.1v your gun will love you for it and should be a nice long loving relationship with less chances of breakdowns

No real other way I'm afraid for higher speeds I have found out the hard way like you what happens Is why I say 25 to 30 unless you do your homework Any battery can be pushing 1 or 1.5v fresh off charge Your spring will lose tension also in 6 months So if you get away today you may not scrape by in 6 months and a fresh battery can just PE anything over 30 is close IMHO And it "may" need a bit of work 35+ is deffo taking the piss US forums can say yeah use 120 spring But is too hot for UK sites Soz

Do 1 tooth removal first on m120 You can always remove another if she is way over Think m110 and 1 tooth might still be asking for PE

Buy 3 steel piston remove last 2 teeth so you got only 1 steel left Then remove the FIRST 2 teeth from sector gear NOT LAST 2 or you mess tappet timing Fit m120 spring, might be m115 but try 120 first

1,000,000 shots on semi no problem Or 50 shots on full auto = BANG it ain't one single shot it is piston not returning in time for shot 2 3 4 5 etc on auto Can happen on semi if she double fires but still not as quick as full speed auto Be grateful you had plastic piston, all steel teeth piston could have a much bigger BBBBAAAAAAANNNNNGGG and gears even motor pinion could have gone bust

Update saw high speed gears So hitting 27 on 7.4 then near 40 ???? On 11.1v Yeah that is fully taking the piss To run that quick you gotta short stroke 2 teeth n use m120

Yes Looks like deffo PE to me My guess you hit 23 on 7.4 and then near 35 Piston didn't fully return and stripped 5 4 3 gears Or pistons are n pitch was not good was a few bad batches of SHS pistons a while back but my main guess is too fast & PE happened