Sitting Duck

pisstake aside see this http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/18-electric/ pics req so use imgur & read this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/26544-how-to-attach-pictures/ also you "might" get lucky flogging it on zero one forums main problem is you ain't got many posts so potential buyers may wish to know where you are to say cash n collect perhaps ??? maybe even take to your local site for final sale or something (just my observations - not knocking ya gun as I got a couple myself)

sorry - no offense but kinda warrants it a bit:

nah its the ott mofo special import version that fires mini bfg's note the cheddite blanks to be used as ammo in there I'm kidding btw

it is a light dusting - probably done with an airbrush I reckon considering the amount of toning they do yup they could give a couple of coats of blue but it may screw it if the 2nd or 3rd goes a bit crap if they varnish it then that is more crap to remove to get to the blue underneath (plus it may give it a gloss or matt - but still alter the sheen or finish of some of gun also bear in mind not many places have the 30th left anyway and £150 + 2-tone fee is still a good option to a Ford Raider (nothing wrong with Raider but the 30th is deffo a worthy consideration for a metal gun for such little extra)

if you want a REAL challenge get a 2-tone from Zero One those mofo's boat that green crap on reckon more 12yr old's will be hitting AirsoftWorld for 2-tone's now and lets face it - the snakeskin pattern was always gonna be a little dubious if it really 101% met the vcra guidelines - which imho it don't say IF at a split second glance well no way like a JBBG vivid dayglo orange/black gun

cheers - often the crane stocks have "about" a 20mm tube by "about" 125mm or 5 inch length for 2 sticks BUT it is so difficult to just say this or that will work for deffo unless I start digging through the exact gun type (which a number of my guns now have stubby's on them instead) some can go up to about 21 - maybe 22mm at a mega push - a cyma seems to a little larger & square rather than round space Nothing worse than buying a battery that you find out it JUST don't wanna fit - done that classic so where ever possible - try to make up a bit of cardboard/wood - anything a similar size n shape and see if that will fit plus a bit of room for wires etc....... a pig of battery gun mofo has to be the mp5k - its long thin tube that really has a max of about 18mm tube plus some stick batteries with a thick wire running down outside of the old skool nimh seem to stop many batteries that should fit reall pain in butt stock that gun for batteries

what one - that links to the list of their 7.4v lipo's any particular one you thinking of ?

read also this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ a lot of "upgrades" may not be an absolute must do first time around. often the piston o-ring is $hit and sometimes it can be real $hit - new o-ring is like 50p or a pack of 6 or 10 for £2 AoE is very rarely done - on the cheap neoprene rubber washers will suffice for most builds unless you are smashing high springs at high speeds stock gears, piston and perhaps piston head often are ok - if the gears don't skreech and piston ain't stripped just a better o-ring will suffice if anything an o-ring nozzle will help and if cylinder head is ok a few wraps of plumbers ptfe tape will improve seals (or maybe get a double o-ring cylinder head and see how a new head n nozzle fit together) any parts you replace from the few crap stock bits you might change like I said make sure you FULLY compare them side by side and check how nicely they fit together & mesh/operate sounds really easy - it kinda is but at first you tend to think all stuff will just drop in there and work just as good if not better the sad fact is the TM compatible crap these parts are supposed to be comes in 3 forms: 1 - yup goes in there lovely and no adjustment or tweaking needed - not as common as you might think 2 - goes in but is a bit long or snags a bit and a bit if file/sanding required to a lot of work getting it to fit (the more parts you replace very often you will have to check-double check everything every step of the way) 3 - bollox is that gonna go in there coz either the part is a duff pile of crap or the box you are trying to put it in is one of them weird not so TM compatible boxes - so it ain't going in there no matter what ya do to it the more you do the more you learn this first hand and you really need mainly 75% care and say 25% decent bits to get most stuff sining better than stock - even some old crappy spare bits n bobs reassembled in ya gun will give good results a couple of more times messing about in there and you will wonder what all the fuss was about think you might have started to run before you could walk doing a complete strip & high speed rebuild with some bits that maybe not quite working out all prefectly running together 101% without a bit of modding here n there. no worries - if you getting all stressed take a step back, look up some info or post up here we have all been there - don't be afraid to take pics - easy to figure out wtf that tiny thing goes loads of tips and methods you will discover on your own and also learn from others still learning - when I stop learning that is when stuff gets boring to me but for now keep the learning curve going upwards

plug in mosfet - usually are the burst wizards like avacado they do NOT protect your contacts at all !!!! (you still have a massive amount of juice being "switched" on contacts - arcing & carbon and burning away) only exception to this is the Kong burst mosfet BUT you MUST hardwire any fet in - including the Kong Kong will work 90% of features - need to work at nasa to fully ubderstand all the program features on that mofo it will work of a sort in plug/play mode but like I said it HAS to be hardwired like any fet to protect your contacts Mosfets are used to turn on/off the high juice without the contacts burning out they are fed a small current that turns on the fet and unleashes the higher juice to the motor the switch contacts are switching the fet on and off, so they remain in a much healthier state They can be wired in using a few different ways either splicing and using the old wiring or as I often do rewire it with better wire and a dedicated mosfet feed/return or supply/signal wires Unfortunately on V2 gearboxes you have to open it up to resolder the switch contacts- even if using most of existing wire (V3's can be "fetted" without opening gearbox up) But it is very wise to perform a little service anyway - Angle of Engagement, regrease, check/improve seals etc... these can be done whilst you have box open to solder in new wiring layout for mosfet. Your running 11.1v in say a reasonable stock ICS so my rough maths you are getting into low 20's on stock setup with 11.1v so it makes sound sense to look into all this for your gun to last and perform more efficiently FireStorm fet for £10 - gotta be one of smallest fets out there and has thermal fuse protection very good & cheap fet for people who don't wanna build their own 3034.... http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html however - the rest is gonna be down to you if you wish to take the plunge or take it to a tech to do - but if you can solder - or practice a bit first with a few old boards good solder - not crap from poundland, a bit of time and it isn't that tricky quick little service whilst box is open - taking your time you shouldn't disturb too much then she "should" go back together quite well with little possible dramas how the fet is wired is up to you how you see fit, front/rear wired you can splice and use most of wiring and if room looks tight on rear wired boxes you can just run a thin signal wire back to fet externally on outside of box (did this for my first fet but now I usually just rewire the whole thing with better wire and neater job I think) if you are new to all the gearbox malarky then I strongly suggest you research a bit on opening boxes first You are a little lucky in that the ICS is split gearbox so you can get the lower box open without too much of the box bursting open and bits flying everywhere like many first timers (inc mine) so yeah google up and do some research before you jump in and go nutz

honestly get a box of them mid caps they are the dogz nutz the picky 416 loves them and I may have to get another box they joy of unleashing bb hell without the winding/feed issue/winding etc..... you can get them from: http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp or if ya want 85rnd ones: http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-magazine-m4-m16-85rd-box-set-mag-grey-x-10-mid-cap-10475-p.asp not used the 85 rnd ones but if they are like the 120/140 ones they should be very good indeed if ya buy a nut/bolt or any other item - you get 10% off and delivery is free (my favourite price) bollox - seems like they have drpped the 10% discount and free delivery very recently used to be a 10% discount code but can't see where that would be entered on the site's recent update ah well they have dropped price as they were £55 free del so now the 140rnd box is £50 + £5 delivery so it kinda woreks out the same I guess - still good mags/price so it is worth considering grabbing a box and maybe sell on half on fleabay or something (shame they don't do say 5 of each and you should be sorted for normal skirmish or more serious low capicity mil sim sites) but if those M4 mags don't work in your gun then you gotta be trying them in an AK or G36 or something

yup some boxes have more allowances at back on full compression plus bearing spring guides & bearing pistons can add 5mm extra tension each from bearing The joys of shortstroking can overcome this on hotter springs to bring down higher fps but I ballsed that up first time also coz I went with conflicting guides saying from start or some said end of sector I went with last teeth on piston - correct and last teeth on sector as it sounded about right - WRONG it balls up the tappet timings shortstroking is done from removing the same off back of piston (leaving at least 1 metal tooth of course) and same amount of teeth of START or beginning of sector gear Personally think a bit of MadBull stuff is not quite as good as people think often there are very good and cheaper alternatives out there (a lot of people over at Z1 seem to love them but when I tried one it kept jammimg on a 510mm one) zci barrels I'm impressed with for value for money still trying out numerous cheaper pistons - I avoid shs blue 3 steel teeth - too soft and plastic teeth shred easy on higher speed builds thought they was perfect - really light and seem to run well but when pushed on the 3 steel pistons it just stripped quickly ACM grey 3 & 7 steel tooth cheapo pistons seem to be holding quite well in 25 - 33 rps builds so far but still early days not got around to using a really nice ASG/Ultimate piston but it is a bit heavy so maybe for a dmr build than high rof yup learning from our mistakes is one of best ways to learn - providing they don't cost us too much grief in the long run

shimming needs a smidge of side to side play or the gears will bind/snag getting them placed correctly takes time/patience and everybox is a little different to others had a mp5 that still sounded like 2 cats killing each other in there no matter what I did it is still a little smidge schreechy in my book but deffo got some play and now using a lightly used G&G gear set in there I'm still learning new crap on every box my first few builds had the bevel gear a bit too low - spun lovely but when motor wound in it was forcing bevel real tight against the bush/bearing on top not quite schreechy but motor/wire everything was getting warm-hot quickly from strain read this - a lot of info there and you don't need to go nutz to get you gun running a bit faster http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ forget the really silly stuff, stick between 20 to 30rps, your gun just dies quicker or wears out faster above 25rps you will need to shortstroke - again I screwed that up first time round too so like a lot of things go easy at first - most good builds and by that I mean the quality not speed most good builds are 25% decent - not awesome high priced parts and the rest is 75% attention to detail how well they fit together - often a bit of file/sandpaper etc.... youtube is good for some stuff but some videos are guys just taking apart a nicely built box and putting it back with parts known to work some of youtube you wonder if their results are really that good or genuinely that fps/rof on that weight of bb or voltage ? like many things - you can read & watch loads but in the end you gotta take off the stabilisers, roll ya sleeves up and just go for it you will screw up but you will learn from your mistakes and nothing is that boned or you just get another box if you can solder, then you can knock up your own 3034 mosfet, or buy a £10 FireStorm one if you get into 20's rps that is very good steady build for many first few builds - seeing that a little work reaps good improvements again for little money n time. Kudos for having a go, double kudos of knowing to get it sorted and try again next time is why I buy the cheaper stuff up to £150 - push it - break it - fix it or leave it until I have gained the experience to fix it (I have a few spare guns and that is all I will say - most work fine coz I haven't killed them all yet) no worries - we are all still learning and I have broken my fair share sir - hence I have a good box of spares (boned boxes)

where the hell have you been ??? glad to see you return hope all is ok

Nobody will be able to tell ya that answer - not even yoda average "may" be 330-340 on 0.20's so expect "around" the 300 mark on 0.25's but every gun will be different - even 2 guns the exact same can vary a little to a bit more end of the day - just ask the site before you sign in can you chrono it first - which usually done on 0.20's (I did the exact same thing coz one of mine was right on the 350 limit last week and they was fine with me chrono first & then sign in) soz I can't offer any more advice or guarantee - but hopefully it should stay under unless it was a hot imported model the UK retailer should of checked and brought it down if needed if it was running on higher US fps limit only one way to really know for sure - run it through your site's chrono first on 0.20's (don't try to scrape under chrono with heavier bb's - they can check by speed loading a few 0.20's in the mags)

If me n mrs split up I'm just gonna get my own boob job (see if it can fit a couple of small hpa tanks in there to use as akimbo secondary's) Whhooiaaaaaaa - f*ck me now this thread has got ugly with b1n0gHo5t's latest pic ..b

G&G's use conventional gears in the bespoke box other m14's use the special gears - think the spur/middle gear is the main difference in some like cyma 032's n others often these have the longer stroke cylinders/pistons to allow for more air on 550-570 barrels but also other bits like hop units are not so easy to come by or obtain as easily as the boring m4 or ak's with all the numerous variations on some of the m14 models when I looked into them I thought yeah I think I'll wait a while longer to see if I really need one as much as I think I might do and so due to the internal parts being like a lottery (yes you can always buy a G&G with G&G parts) I thought - nah, will leave it a while longer and stick to the normal stuff for now

Not trying to be a mum or referee here chaps but often me & Lozart have not quite seen exactly eye to eye sometimes mine and/or his posts could be interpreted two ways (and yes I will admit once or twice I could of - well have take it perhaps the wrong way at first) All said n done I'm the first and probably my own worst critic - I'll often play the dumb a$$ fool and get in to take a pop at myself before anybody else does.... I try not to take life too seriously, death is much more serious on the other hand I have options to accept comments and not take them too seriously I could reply with a bit of wit or accept them as a light hearted jest Or I can take them seriously - we all face choices like this in life again n again The trouble is often a light hearted joke or jest is very often at somebody's expense edit - removed the stuff I am worrying about atm

mellow chaps........ it will always be like that, they don't get us men and we certainly will never understand women dunno why our setup works so far for so long when many other couples have split up I work nights during the week so the only time we get pissed off with each other is at weekends during the week we got the perfect marriage we don't see each other much so we don't argue really it is just the weekends for some reason we piss each other off ???

sounds about right except I think snipers - bolt action go to 500fps but often aeg dmr's go to 425-450fps I think is my local rules (higher figure 450 think they allow if they trust you to know what a true 30m med is) that said 425 is only 75 over so I feel many could just get their normal aeg running as accurate as they can get (within sensible reason rather than spend $hitloads to gain a few metres for much more money) get ya gun running well increase the range and tighten groupings - then FULL AUTO THE F*CKERS !!!!! one of them should get the message across rather than eventually make a slightly longer greater shot then see it brushed off by some cheating mofo well that is my take on dmr's but maybe I might get a m14 one day or something as some places won't accept a CM M4 can be classed as a true dmr (its a toy gun ffs - but again it is just my opinion if they won't allow me to use a 450fps b500a1)

Also is same address as OnlyBBGuns 17 Willow Road - Slough iwholesales wanted my inside leg measurement as they don't sell to individuals etc (jeez amount of crap I've bought thought they would want to do business but wtf) spoke to a chap at Only about a RIF as Only do 2-tone - are they ukara retailer ??? and that was a major ball ache and little email response on that enquiry about face to face purchase of RIF So yeah a bit of a weird setup or connection to other companies BUT out of the 3 " BB " sites I do actually still rate Only as the better one still have to be careful about what you buy - there is still some crap on there and from experience forget trying to buy a RIF off them - 2-tone yeah not bad but forget RIF but weird - iwholesales will set you up an account maybe and sell you RIF's OnlyBBGuns sell only 2-tone stuff - no mention of UKARA I think ahhh forget it - I just carry on buying in bulk then

G36c - they are plastic/polymer in real life anyway A lot of good starter airsoft guns are plastic - best ones being G&G's M4's (they just seem beter quality/robust plastic guns than some other more brittle plastic) I actually like many "plastic" guns - have a full metal 416 amongst others but the 416 is weighty (deffo need a sling for all day shooting) the makes I said earlier Cyma JG & G&G do make decent value for money starter guns (some really really cheap makes of cyma & jg do exist that are real cheap $hite but most places don't stock them at all they are really that bad) either get a 2-tone gun probably from UK supplier, or rent a gun at 1 site a few times to obtain ukara then buy a black RIF. If you attempt to import a RIF from overseas without ukara defense then two things may happen 1 - it may not get sent until proof of defense is supplied. Many places are wary about sending them without defense as they can be seized/destroyed and customer hassle of claiming money back etc...... 2 - even if they do send it, and some places may offer to send a RIF in two parts in an attempt to get around this if one let alone 2 x parcels get stopped by customs you will get screwed over by Custom charges and Royal Mail admin fee (if both parts get stopped it will be a very expensive gun indeed) find a site, perhaps rent to obtain ukara or get a decent 2-tone IF is what many do but get a decent one then keep as a spare or sell it for say 2/3rd's of what you paid and will work out the same as hiring x 3 for ukara up to you but read up on ian's guide to noobism http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

aye but if ya think that is bad - wait until you got kids.... I was the last of 4 boys but my mum always said: "if you had of been the first - you would of been the last" (cheers mum) test it out a bit on a variety of bb's brands & weights - not just mess about coz the first lot of .25's or .30's shoot a bit weird Avoid FireBall 0.25's - these mofo's 1 in about 6 shoot pi$$ed or fall well short - "Jimmy's" as my son calls them think they a friggin' egg shaped or something - probably get better results shooting dried peas or something than those poxy things

cheap gas pistol - 2-tone in UK http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/bb-guns/gas-bb-guns/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VbJZe7Xp8i4 use RC10 and 10% off might still work there are other models but tread with great caution - get another mag and some gas not a £100 to £150 super blowback pistol but if/when it busts (often mag leaks) then repair/replace or chuck it in bin - good value for under £30 to get ya feet wet In general this is the slightly better of the 3 bb sites but still a LOT of crap on there - so don't just buy any old crap proper gun/rifle - JG G36c, Cyma AK or G&G M4 is what you should go for as primary

yes very common to put down stuff like a $3 toy trust me I have been on opposite end of this with importing rare gaming consoles from US & Japan If they don't see any real value of goods they will take the insured value limit as to final amount PLUS SHIPPING FEES !!!! now if a console is worth say $200 but the sender has insured it in the couriers price band of up to $400 + another 45 shipping so Customs take the item as nearly $450 - £300 value and slap on 17.5% VAT at the time + RM pay this on HM behalf then they whack on a f*cking admin fee on top that leaves this duck with £80 bill or I ain't getting my $200 or £140 console ffs ah well what you need to do is write to HM Customs with invoice from sender and a note from sender explaining blah blah blah Oh btw sir you got like 14 days to pay this £80 or we are sending it back to say those robbing mofo's have you but the short n curley's is a massive understatement as I am mugged by RM & HM customs The above is the worst one to date but after that I reduced the urge to import rare crap over the pond I absolutely hate them - the £28 import allowance has not or hardly risen in the last friggin' 20 years either ffs a f*cking con is what it all is and still gets my back up thinking back to them bastids having me over a barrel I did get my chance to tell them to poke it some years later.... bought a few old pcb boards from states with a very good expensive lcd chip on there was gonna rip old chip off to mount/use in a picaxe project I was thinking of doing..... all in it was a crazy price fleabay win of under a tenner... RM sends me a letter saying £32 please.... F*ck off its only £9.27 all inc delivery me thinks over the next week or so I got a few more reminders or we are returning to sender post it into outer space for all I care - you are not getting any more money out of me on that one mofo's so yeah lost a tenner but sod was I gonna give them tossers any more money - GGGGrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr In my experience - buying from US has a higher chance of it being stopped from HongKong it is about 50/50 depending on size of parcel Hence I'm buying my own vault of crap from EU before we pull out FTW - and I don't mean "for the win"