Sitting Duck

aye - oven cleaner Fairy Power is best Mr Muscle at a push but only if its on offer - otherwise save ya cash & keep searching for the Fairies

Massive guess@ 7 to 7.5 inch possible suggestion on say a 275 to 300 inner barrel with say a 11.5 outer..... if that G&G outer is usual 3 piece one with "tube" in middle hack off the front sight - I mean really dremmel that mofo off so the last piece fits inside ris then with the middle TUBE @ say 5 inches reduce that by say 3 or 4 inches as required custom bespoke outer barrel for next to nothing Or if you are really clever and wanna play safe - measure the dimensions of TUBE buy a 2 or 3 inch piece off fleabay and keep original TUBE as it for spare part obviously this won't work out that well if you got the longer barrel model as flashhider/thread would be 4-5 inches in front of sight but if you got a 275-300 barrel G&G this could be an easy quick cheap option to look into AT YOUR OWN RISK - IT IS JUST ME MAKING A POSSIBLE SUGGESTION (your gun is at risk if you don't keep up common sense checks or any other mods performed upon it) Terms and conditions apply- see www.dontblameus.com for more details

wouldn't lay the whole gun in any chemicals - might chew rubber bucking and clean off grease where needed in gearbox major pain in the ar$e even an easy to strip paint job as often remove all painted pieces and then chuck in bath (plastic ice cram tub - missus hates my toys but she prefers her own toys at bath time like a buzzing yellow rubber ducky)

Asda, Wilkinsons, maybe Morrisons & Sainsbury's Asda are cheapest @ £2:98 normal rrp is £3:50 Last Fairy Power Spray I got in Tesco's Extra super store last week was hidden away though They had Mr Muscle oven cleaner half price @ £1:75 but I knew it ain't quite as good Hit it with Mr Muscle first for a few hours soak - loosened it up a bit but not brilliant Then went nutz & mega ott on a mission to get that thick as f*ck Zero One Green crap off Jeeez - even inside the ris rails they f*cking painted and reckon is was more than just one quick coat I reckon at least two - maybe 3 quick coats was applied in quick succession coz it was one mofo to get back to black Plus many have said how Z1's 2-toning felt tacky out of box....... Finally got it to where this ultra fussy mofo is happy with it 99.9% removed - minor specks and I mean very very tiny minor specks but most are on the underside rail so I'll live with that best advice - get ice cream carton, spray it everywhere nice n foamy, leave it for few hours 2 toothbrushes - normal and a mini kids toothbrush for nooks n crannies.... wear cheapo rubber gloves - yeah I know we are men and f*ck all that crap but palms of your hands do start to flake a bit after a while - oooh heck If it is like Z1 paint job - you won't get it off real quick - reckon with a foamy covering - scrape foamy covering leave to soak - scrape, foamy covering leave overnight - scrape more foamy crap etc...... Yeah reckon that is best part of a weekend if you are ultra fussy like me yes it is fine to leave overnight 24hrs - think mine was about 36hrs soaking in total (actually forgot about it) - still got all the white number digits on rails maybe a slight wear of the satin black finish - but then that could be from my mental akimbo toothbrush attacks on the bitch still got crane stock to de-green but most likely fit the usual stubby fixed M4 stock in there as per usual Yeah wot a bollock ache - but it is do-able, not quite as easy as some others might be - poxy Z1 Raider

I'm a pratt who sucks at airsoft therefore I am often one that will throw myself up or attract their attention whilst my team assault (well that is my pathetic excuse) Kill - Death bollox ??? Only Kill I worry about is if my team decide I must be on the enemy side Only Death I worry about is if my gun will last the day As long as I don't mess up and cost my team the game - so what if peeps take the general skirmish sites too seriously then they should put down the toy gun and get out more If people are really worried about K-D running around with toy guns..... There is no MOAB in airsoft - well unless PT247 is on your team

indeed the whole list of guides is in this section.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/

https://www.swindonairsoft.co.uk/ might be able to help but I have no experience with them could be motor angle rather than shimming that caused screeching previously now motor spins but no gun fires - so could be gear knackered or something.... but all of us guessing and saying this n that is little real use as we haven't got it in front of us won't hurt to get a second opnion

sounds like fuse is current issue so do a quick process of elimination test..... check fuse with a torch/bulb circuit or a test screw driver multi meter continuaty thingy majig is gearbox locked - remove motor frame a smidge so motor isn't engaging box/gears pull trigger motor spins or not no spin fuse ok then trigger contacts could be burnt out so connect battery or some psu to motor etc..... etc..... etc....... - basic trial error stuff to narrow down present issue It may be a blown fuse due to increased strain on motor if wound in too far but might be a locked box - hard for anybody to say 101% exactly as we don't have gun in front of us but a few basic checks will narrow it down a bit and once that is done it will be easier to at least suggest possible solutions to original issue or cause of dead gun if you still can't determine if fuse is blown or not..... You could but I am not recommending anybody does this or at least not without removing motor from gun.... you could wrap some silver foil around the glass fuse or jam in a bit of foil to short a blade fuse BUT FFS DO NOT DO THIS WITH MOTOR IN BOX - ONLY DO THIS WITH MOTOR REMOVED SERIOUSLY DON'T F*CK ABOUT WITH 11.1v LIPO's & BITS OF SILVER FOIL SHORTING OUT ETC...... I am only suggesting this to somebody who has an A level in common sense as an absolute last resort fall back test and I mean TEST with motor out with a split second to see if motor turns on its own I'm making this as absolutely clear as possible it is a quick last ditch BODGE TEST that should only ever be used for split second If anybody blows their gun or battery or themselves up I am not responsible - they do this at THEIR own stupid risk I have done stuff like this, & I'm sure many have but we kind of know what we are doing in a basic last resort 1 sec test as well as we know we are being possible dickheads but we use extreme caution & common sense Honestly a meter or test screwdriver is much quicker, easier and above all much safer a 7.4v lipo battery if shorts out can really pack a hell of a punch arcing like f*ck I shorted a lipo once even though I was fitting deans one at a time and I $hit myself with the vivid arcing and zaps that followed On 11.1v it is very f*cking dangerous so I strongly advise to anybody is don't bodge stuff - full stop no really don't think it will be ok - it is f*cking dangerous even if you really think you know what you are doing

Exactly all the above In fact try to set motor height on lower 7.4v if possible and then retest on 11.1v Why - because screeching is much more noticeable on lower speeds than on very high speeds sounds bollox - but it is true the pitch/tone is deffo easier to hear on say 20rps than 30rps and a gun might not sound that bad on 11.1v but sounds worse on 7.4v There's a couple of vids on youtube about this and it is true - the screech is more noticeable on lower rps This might be due to lower tone/pitch of screech over the motor whine instead of higher pitch screech and whine of motor sounding similar dunno exact reason but deffo more noticeable I have found on lower rps also v3's you have the option to check motor frame/angle get motor running quietish then if still not happy loosen motor frame and see if adjusting the frame you may get the motor angled more true in line with bevel that slight twist or shift may make reduce any screech even further but this motor adjustment should be done with a bit of care & common sense noting any results good or bad plus people should not need to keep pi$$balling about with it too much either or keep winding motor inwards that will just force bevel tight against bushing/bearing generating more heat n wear etc.....

They are all CM16's really - just with different tarted up front ends CM18 is a CM16 like the Carbine Raider FireHawk GC16 or 26 etc...... To me the CM18 is stretched FireHawk front end without the amplifier - even has the same flip sights as FH but in contrasting colours then they add a bit of tan/black mix which makes it stand out a bit The ris ladder covers can be removed, the contrasting pistol grip - well when your out shooting wtf is gonna notice the contrasting crane stock - replace with a black crane or me have used a black fixed stubby stock on there other option is a Raider or GC16 30th the CQB or the BOT 300 is getting over £150 for a polymer gun MK18's are nice coz of the contrasting look out of box failing that get the metal GC16 and then later on consider changing the front end/barrel to your choice

KIllflash - just looks the nutz as long as it can take a bb that is main thing but I ain't one for show or looks malarky but I gotta say killflash don't matter if eotech has a dead battery - it just looks the nutz and you can get them quite cheap from Taiwangun I think I bought mine from

Really - is that all stock or with another beefy neodym motor in there ??? no way would a stock gun be hitting that on 7.4v either that or I'm doing everything wrong or buying the wrong guns Android BPS Meter is quite accurate as long as gun "sounds" properly and has barrel etc all assembled (gets weird results just testing bare box dry firing on just the nozzle) Can't believe a stock JG G36c is hitting that on 7.4v - 13 yeah on 7.4v or 20 on 11.1v/shs motor/12:1 gears something is giving that mofo a 50% boost on 7.4v even then small tamiya would be choking it a bit either something ain't quite as I'm lead to think or that app is way out

You could just drop in a mental quick motor - SHS speed or torque go from say 13 to say 18rps - wow this good on 7.4v lets try 11.1v - christ that is nearly 27rps - woo hoo Yeah it didn't last when I first did that - the initial pick up tooth on piston just snapped off Aaaaahhhh I think I should done AoE after the second piston just snapped off you can get a gun to near 20 or just over 20 with a mental motor but that includes the wires, fet, deans which must be done at that speed if you want a little more a LiFe battery will bridge the gap a bit between 7 & 11 lipo's but on using thicker wire and beefier motors the difference seems to drop Going past 25 other problems may/will arise - deffo 30rps will start to risk PE without more work a stock box running well AoE seals shimmed fet etc... will be fine to take a beefy motor and a good boost over 13rps this will last longer than a crazy 30rps+ gun, so a sensible 20 - 25 can be achieved on nigh on stock stuff most of the time 20 - 21 but on the ak12 I hit 24.8rps on 30c 7.4v but mega thick wires used and soldered direct to motor not a real option on a v2 box but v3's with motor frame/cage you can remove cage from box and work on shredded piston or gear shimming plus v3 wiring is external so you don't have to file out a box to get much thicker in there like on some v2 boxesso see about some decent wire that you can route through the gun going for 16awg or silver wire to unleash battery hell when you pull triggerw hoa - that was yet another ultra quick note - soz just check your 7.4v speed first before dropping in a 11.1v

How fast do you wanna go - really and how far do you wanna go - really as its a v3 you can break into 20rps easily with nearly all stock internal box then just rewire, fet, deans etc... on stock gears - fir shs or other beefy neodym motor test it all out if she is good with motor connectors, then cut n solder for extra boost wire in fet etc with dedicated wires motor to battery - neg to fet to battery then the positive switch wires on their own thinner wiring. All this equals next to no join or resistance points for max power flow to motor (often speed freaks will forgo any fuse but only if you have common sense and know your gun) inside the box just cheap service like AOE, new piston ring, o-ring nozzle, ptfe tape on head or new cylinder head if you wish and bearing spring guide perhaps You do not need to replace everything inside box - std piston & gears will be fine for a decent upgrade More higher rof will require more work and crap out quicker with more additional problems eg: Pre Engagement, double cycle/firing, feeding problems at higher speeds etc etc etc....... for easier life and less stress stick to a reasonable upgrade - service the box & rewire with fet then drop in a decent neodym motor - that is where you should spend £30 on inside the box maybe £20 or so but no more than £25-£30 really then spend about £20 for basic £10 fet, decent wire & some deans etc.... Not a massive amount but with motor, service box and mosfet it is about £70 still people buy loads of bits n bobs - hi speed gears and lonex steel pistons n heads etc... but as long as seals are good stock stuff is fine for most people sure if you are shortstroking you want more steel teeth to remove But you don't need to go nutz inside the box either get the aoe and seals done, shim it as best as you possibly can grease it where needed, nozzle n spring guide - box done fit the mosfet if possible if funds allow - leave motor until next month gun is sorted and motor drop in as n when you got the dosh keep her 20 to 25rps or you will have more stuff to do The most you should spend is time

in short there isn't many places in the house that ISN'T my workspace kitchen table - dining table - even a big wide window sill Where are we gonna eat they say ???? MacDonalds ffs - don't touch my stuff it is all arranged in methodical chaotic order

deans must be done - that is main bottleneck - then thicker wire & ensure motor contacts are good and extra solder on the connector "bends" (g36 probably doesn't have the connectors bent over like on M4 V2 box/motor - they are probably straight connection to motor) heck if you are really power crazy you could solder thicker wires to neodym motor for ultimate connection but only if your a freak like me

9.9v life is the modern bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo but think life's are great for stock & mild tweak guns but don't have the raw grunt a 25/30c lipo has on a beefed gun depends on battery space available get a decent capacity 7.4v than a moderate 11.1v get the internals sorted and she will fire like f*ck with lipo's supplying as much juice as she can want in a nutshell it is mainly about decent wire/mosfet/deans and then making bevel turn quick & snappy

Scrap the blowback option.... http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?258993-G-amp-G-MP5-cracked-gearbox Seems like mp5's have this problem and might be wise to consider a normal box instead

I was a twat at first game - still am but a few like was that a hit, dead man talking etc...... mainly due to being so pumped up & excited at my first time Please be gentle with me - I was a virgin.... After a very nooby ar$ehole first game I got it sussed and understood the basic guidelines etc.... Also helps though it ain't an excuse, if you turn up for morning briefing rather than like me when I just showed up for afternoon walk on with little time for a run through on it all The biggest lie as usual is me telling missus - this is deffo the last gun I need to buy (along with the other lie - yes I am gonna sell the other one soon)

Yup - if playing with different barrels n buckings - it is wise to get another hop unit whilst you are at it if your old barrel/hop is ok-ish then just remove it and leave it, quite easy to tear the bucking/hop rubber if removing get the other barrel assembled with another hop up and bucking - simple swap over if results are crap you still got the old complete barrel/hop to fall back on all still ready to go Tight Bore Barrels can alter - well they usually add 15 to 20fps some hop ups work better than others in some guns and not so great in others buckings - new improved ones can get fitted badly and tear when you strip to re-assemble again hence a wise consideration is to mess with a new setup perhaps before stripping and making a mess of old kinda working ok-ish stock barrel/hop

another gun added to my "When I'm worthy..." list

I doubt it M4 wise and these are sold out at Zero One & Land Warrior Airsoft read the reviews at all websites - owners appear to be very happy could still get a Raider 2-toned free @ £123 from Zero One but this 30th edition is worth a look - the front sight can be removed easily leaving a completely clear top rail for scopes etc... (Raider front sight fixed on permanently) not loads of rails like Raider but you get 3 x mini bolt on ones for grips n stuff

blimey - I got a note from database saying mine expires in a months time 2hrs later I got another email saying I've been updated already guess my local site just did it there n then when they opened as they got their own small online shop to add to database last year I was moaning they were dragging their heals a bit but well pleased this time didn't go today - been well over 6 weeks maybe 8 but just wanted to mention a big fanx (next time chaps I'll be there helping to support my local site - fanx again)

rule of thumb if you are skirmishing with ANY gun... Know your gun's range/limits - no point opening fire on an enemy way outside you or your gun's range sounds obvious but myself included get involved sometimes in battles way beyond what me & enemy can hit each other If your gun can't reach that bloke then why open fire until he gets within range unless you are in range of his sniper/dmr/better gun then move your ar$e

agreed 2-tone G&G might be just a stepping stone if you get into it but if a newcomer stays or quits after 6, 12, 18 months..... Raider £123 plus battery charger etc..... (now if the battery/charger sourced seperately and say bought 2 x batteries - 7.4v lipo's could save money) But anyway - say for arguments sake £175 all in cost of gun n battery charger OP quits or gets ukara and thinks flog Raider..... £100 quick sale all in or maybe a bit more light skirmish use and hardly used ??? 3 x hire guns would of cost him about £25 a pop = £75 to get ukara'd now op would be f*cked with some "BB" guns - if they lasted that long but a Raider should hold up well and hold its value a bit or be worth keeping as spare backup gun so perhaps a 2-tone G&G is a worthy consideration even if user might get ukara'd and go for a RIF later on (well I think it ain't unwise - but another crappy aeg gun from BB sites is deffo not a wise long term investment)