Sitting Duck

For what little it is worth...... Gear ratios are never quite what they say on them and often the 18 is a 18.65 or 12 is really 12.65:1 ratio 12:1 & 13:1 gears are little too much imho - they increase your fire rate by 35 to nearly 50% but it is more work for motors to run through especially from start due to fact 16:1 are in fact more like 17.25:1 they offer less improvement that first thought (often an expect 10-12% turns out to be 8% improvement not much but still mugged) for that reason I think a 15:1 - which I haven't seen around or a 14:1 set might offer a balance of about 28%-ish for performance wise but still it seems to common or popular options are stock 18:1, 16:1 or 13:1 (or must have 12:1's for nutter speedsters trying to over compensate for something) End of the day if stock gears are good ones then very often leave them in there along with a few other stock bits like piston new bits to help seals like ptfe, or new cylinder head, o-ring and o-ring nozzle plus aoe is what will help possible wire in fet - use deans and perhaps good wire and when ready a oomphy neodym motor will sing no problem Gun doesn't go too fast to crap out too quick and owner is happy for very little work/money in the end Yes 13:1's on higher speed setup's but a bit more work involved getting that to operate well is needed faster n faster on m100 spring and she double cylce's etc.... risk of PE may get closer plus gun will wear more 13:1 nutter builds when you start to push it will deffo need short stroking past 30rps thicker wire mofo batteries etc............... on stock stuff/gears you can get to 20rps on 7.4v and 30 on 11.1v but as I say at 25 to 30rps more homework is needed the above figures are on fast torquey neodym motors - these can be anywhere from 10% to 50% over stock motor's performance so don't flame me if you don't hit the exact figures I quote coz builds are very different and I always use thickest wire and deans/fet etc....

Another possible consideration and correct me if I am wrong here.... On your G&G it probably was just a "service" or replacement of a part or two However you have replaced the stock gears with another set and so it could be shimmed a little incorrectly Specifically the bevel could be too low and when the motor is wound in the pinion is forced hard against bushing/bearing This creates a great strain on its own when cycling and is not good for your whole box/motor This was my mistake (along with others) when I was having real grief on my first few gearboxes A GENERAL RULE OF THUMB - note general rule of thumb not a gospel to follow but along the line of what you can expect.... middle/Spur gear a thin shim behind it if using bushings - medium shin behind it if using bearings bevel gear - hardly anything on top of it - thinnest possible shim maybe 2 or thin medium shim if using bearings BUT OFTEN VERY LITTLE ON TOP OF BEVEL GEAR Bearings will need more shims than bushings btw as they are thicker sector - shimmed as needed rough guide on hand closing box you should see sideways movement on all gears of aprox 1mm when tightening box up - I'd say nip screws using just finger and thumb on screwdriver to avoid going nutz and stripping threads when box is tightened up this 1mm play will reduce to 0.5mm - aprox I always hold the box and 2 out of 3 bearings - shake box and should hear the 3rd gear click as it moves from shaking repeat on all gears to hear and check by pushing through with screwdriver but sometimes you don't notice it vividly moving always the spin test on gears too - just I like to hear the play sound so to speak numerous things or tips I do like backing off a screw at a tiny bit at time to pinpoint any tightness on which gear All of this means f*ck all if the gears are not "stacked" or arranged correct height to each other Oh there's loads of little things to say/do & test and thie above is not a complete guide or list on how to shim but it is very important not to shim bevel gear too low or even slightly low

7.2v or 8.4v nimah ??? I've run 8.4 & 9.6v nimah on a shs high speed but that was with stock 18:1 gears in a G&G your ratio/speed has increased by about 36% more work though (18.65 divided by 13.65 = 1.366) so yes that could be pushing it, not gonna say it is like having a m130 spring in there but reckon about a m120 easpecially at start standstill another matter might be if piston is bottoming out on spring guide or full spring compression but this would normally happen is bearing spring guide and bearing piston/spacers ott and some springs with thicker wire/coils won't compress as much as other thinner/weaker springs daft thing but spring is fitted correct way round - it can make a difference charge up battery or see what you got for more grunt but careful you don't blow fuse just a quick test or two to see if she will cycle with a bit more juice what motor in there - neodym ??? if motor has the oomphhhhh, and no mechanical lock up on piston travel/spring compression then most likely weak or not fully charged nimah could be issue As you already did a lovely to work on G&G I will assume it wasn't down to bad fitting of them components but all the same that may need to be considered if its the v3/g36 type box in your ump - at least you can test it a little easier than with the G&G v2 putting it back in receiver etc....

I say consider getting another hop and assembling the new unit so it is an easy swap over - especially for first timers often - myself included the used bucking doesn't fair well on removal and can tear well my first one did but it could of been torn or started to tear causing issues in the first place but was shagged when I stripped the hop In an ideal world owner would have over time aquired a reasonable "spares box" of stuff to try and fall back on I also wasn't impressed with madbull tbb when I quickly tried one - kept jamming but that could of been incorrectly fitted hop or catching on hop lip doubt it coz same hop/bucking on a zci tbb fed perfectly when swapped over and not tried the 510mm madbull since but wasn't impressed with a brand often over rated to say the least..... Also in relation to cost of madbull and a new bucking - another decent hop is worth considering imho..... YES there is a chance that another hop unit may actually be worse than the stock hop - but there is a chance also it could be better (some hops can feed better or seal better as well as worse - nozzles may operate/seal better/worse etc.....) As Tom Jones would say - "it's not unusual.... ooommm chah oooommm" - soz back on topic it's not unusal to end up having that bit paired with that bit along with that original bit you started with The end result could end up being old barrel, old bucking washed in soapy water, new nub and new hop coz old hop was crap You buy another hop in my mind, a couple of decent cheap rubbers with nubs (bet you lose one of them sods if not careful) get the other unit assembled and gain a bit of experience - with a spare bucking on hand just in case Then a swap over and test - might be miles better or might be $hit if not gone according to plan..... No biggy - you got stock working unit to fall back on..... Oooh that looks all crappy, quick clean of stock unit as is and she fires like new it could/can happen but cleaning barrel is very first you should do....... or ooooh hang on a sec - that bump looks a bit pi$$ed as you look down into hop, minor twist and bucking aligns - dooohhhhhh The stock hop unit might not be holding its setting very well and winding off, yes some shims can help but them threads can strip easy if ya go too mad and then you could be boned if no spare a day or two before game day soz for ultra long waffle but it would be lovely and perfect if problems dissappeared straight away when you fit a new part the reality is that new parts can also also cause more problems if fitted incorrectly or not installed with care...... Very very often some high end parts do not solve the issues or show great improvements that noobs like me think they will If you got a cyma ak then chances are it will have a good solid metal hop unit and will be fine But I often will consider getting a spare of most things I have - just in case or to try and see before I dive in thinking the very usual - yup it has to be this or that causing the problem/issue...... new barrel + new bucking, me personally would consider getting another hop unit practice or get new complete barrel unit assembled - if you have a nightmare at this point your gun still operates atm rather than spend the evening looking for nub or last ripped bucking if you are really clumsy etc........ if new unit is fitted well then test and it probably will be a great improvement over old worn barrel/hop/bucking If not - at least you have a number of options to consider to try out and a spare of everything like I mentioned.... new barrel, new bucking - 2 could be wise sometimes madbull sell buckings in pairs plus a new hop could be worth considering if you don't have one to hand - could be a faulty hop - unlikely but just saying That is what I personally would do or consider having to hand before I steam in this is just my own personal take on the matter though but as Lozart said about me working with crappy guns - they often could benefit from a number of better parts too

hops are different to each gun type and sometimes certain makes of gun can be bespoke eg: ICS M4 has its own M4 hop & rubber bucking but usually most guns are TM compatible and an AK hop will do fine in AK's & regular M4 hop will work in most M4's well usually they do,, but in practice sometimes they need a slap or in some cases a punch your tactical AK will very very likely be ok with the usual cyma or shs AK hopup unit & general aeg bucking (you don't say exact make of AK but could likely to be cyma or jg or a rebadge of these brands) some cheapo nasty JBBG guns and even some really horrible nasty cyma/jg/double eagle ak's are made with weird parts 901c has a bespoke hop & barrel in it - poxy thing but would think a regular run of the mill ak hop will be inside your gun - so cyma or shs one should be ok if possible go for a metal one for not much more than a plastic hop unit softer 50/60 degree bucking and watch some tutorials apply a little grease carefully to assist in fitting bucking/barrel to unit

Leave those alone ffs Expensive $hit mags You wanna consider these mofos http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp Order a nut or bolt and you get 10% off order plus shipping is free - my favourite

I am a bit trigger happy but Reckon 2 x 1300's will deffo see ya OK Or you need to check your sights or eyesight

4 pins is 11.1v 3 pins is 7.4v So yeah just need adapter

Is that a 11.1v balance port on charger Looks like it might be 4 pins n 4th pin hidden by angle of shot

loads of cheap chargers for lipo's but most go for the B6 type with faster charge options Usually lipo chargers will require a 12 to 18v seperate psu to operate the charging unit with an amperage of 1a to 5a output at a push you can scrape by with very cheap lipo chargers and longer recharge times I have 2 smart (might have a 3rd somewhere) & 3 cheap - bloody cheap like under £7:50 chargers for lipo's and just leave them trickling away, some say very low recharge might not good for lipo's but so far all still ok you can pay £30+ for a top of range lipo charger or £3 from hongkong pile of crap trickle 750mah lipo charger Some are 240v like B3 AC but watch out for clones - got one of those B3's and was buzzing like f*ck yeah right chucked that in the bin like cheap iphone chargers you gotta be very careful on cheapo nasty fake $hit that might pose a risk of fire that is charger not the lipo itself, coz lipo's are so dangerous that IS terrorists have started to use them (no I am being silly as per usual - not had a lipo explode on me - yet) just saying there are cheap & very cheap stuff out there but you need to be careful if buying on the cheap or buy from a good UK retailer to be sure of getting a safe charger that conforms to our safety standards

AEG wise - 3 no question on that one think its a 330 barrel length, front wired but solid handguard with a few mini rails to bolt on for grip etc removable front sight to leave clean top rail for scope if you so wish I'd buy another black one as its metal and make a full metal CM18 or some other project but I am trying to cut down CM18 is nice too but the mid cap mag is crap plus don't like the CM18's stock flash hider G36 type with thread for quick fit silencer I changed my CM18's flash hider straight away and left mag in box - but 2-tone black/tan looks sexy the first 2 - hmmm not for me The BOT is still a polymer one with basic fet and over the £150 mark I think for a polymer gun SRL - not sure how good the idea of bespoke components are from newer G&G's arriving now I haven't bought any higher end G&G's so can't comment just how good value the more expensive guns are I can only comment on the cheaper starter guns as I have/had quite a few of them This is the area that G&G shift loads n loads n loads of them coz they are such good value alas many G&G CM starters are common as muck and everybody has one or owned/used one in the past DMR - can't help ya on that issue I like running around, sweating loads, and squealing like a girl as I shot to f*ck

G&G CM Vs ICS Sportline or 2 very good plastic/polymer starter guns..... Fire rate out of box - ICS seems a bit faster imho Build quality - G&G imho win due to conventional hop, I think the G&G receivers are better than ICS (G&G 8mm bearing/bushing ICS pretty sure they are 7mm, G&G bronze bushings wear a bit quicker I feel) yes ICS split gearbox is good for spring change but often if gun breaks it all has to be stripped down could go on loads of fors/against so the 2 above it is neck n neck so to speak.... But deciding factor and why I feel G&G just beat ICS is down to choice of gun styles in the £120 to £150 range ICS just seem to be the same as G&G carbine M4a1 in the sportsline/starter range - often just loads of different stocks needing to go up above £150 to get some nicer looking models Where as G&G seem to offer a bit more choice with rails n stuff Watch out though on new revamped G&G's with new style CM receivers CM16 SR looks nice but has the start of their "module" stuff they was on about sounds good some of this plug in stuff until you realise you gotta use G&G spare parts coz it is bespoke and not TM compatible http://www.popularairsoft.com/news/gg-armament-cm16-sr-series-released the electronic trigger unit could cost a bit if she fails along with other "new" innovations like quick swap motor redesigned bb loading system with no tappet plate - hmmmmmm plug in module batteries and more electronic crap - not G&G's strong point in past Time will tell how the new CM stuff runs but I'm old skool - that is just my take with regular CM just beating ICS sportlines well for now - if newer CM fails then my money would be back on ICS for clever split gearbox but not ott that it costs loads to service/repair

ahhh ok - then the bottom one in your list like most have said as you have a crane stock & rear wired

in my book it will be fine - under 10v is nothing to worry about

what ics gun are you thinking of getting ?????? damn it - just beaten to it, but seriously do you need nunchuck twin stick or will a single stick/block battery go in there nunchuck's are for the crane stock's - some front wired guns can take a single block type if dimensions are observed I can get a cheapo 2200mah 7.4v lipo in ICS-42W front handguard and a jumbo battery in the fixed rear stock where it is wired to on 42w http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZIPPY-Compact-2200Mah-2s-7-4v-25c-35c-Lipo-Pack-UK-Seller-Fast-Dispatch-/131212457347

welcome but try ebay.... read this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ real sound advice and all in good down to earth easy to get ya head round english all high end stuff can be bought as you replace the good starter stuff in there (all depends on your budget and how much you get into it but no point in going completely nutz from day one) best wishes & welcome once again

He can't make up his mind but only has £300 (I used to indecisive - but knowadays I'm not so sure) we all know as soon as you buy something, you think maybe .......... £300 is £300 - if he had a grand then go for all of them mofo ones he listed instead of cyma's but to say they are worse than his SRC - ouch that's harsh - lol edit - wow this must be a really rare post that I never mentioned G&G in damn it - I knew I couldn't supress it for too long....

trust me if it feels a little tight at first it will be digging right into you before half time have a look at some bolle stuff at your local screwfix or other places at least if they are not suitable you can easily return perhaps for another pair yeah some are a bit chunky but check the ratings and if needed fire a bb at them if they fit ok some are designed for people wearing glasses plus you can see reviews on how they stack up or fog up etc......

£300 ukara - sod it buy a load of 'em and always have a spare.... (story of my life) http://www.taiwangun.com/en/jg0448a-au-1g-jg?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-028a-tactical?from=listing&campaign-id=19 http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-060b-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 those 3 should get ya free shipping about £225 in our local non greek currency £75 on mags - sorted ask for free downgrade (hopefully they remember) as many are a bit hot out of box for our 330-350 sites oh and your G36 - probably just needs a tweak/service Gen 3 are better - the other Gen boxes are built like real $hite

Serious site in Dartford - Sandpit google up: "sandpit dartford airsoft" vids n stuff - no 2-tones allowed - runs on Sundays real serious airsoft - I've not been myself coz I just pi$$ about with my toy guns Tunnel site in Epsom - google "epsom tunnels airsoft" one word - DARK actually two words - F*CKING DARK gotta be experienced I would say - a bit full on but reckon you must go there there are others like my more cheap n cheerful one but not for the pro's Mall in Reading is a bit far from East London but in centre of Reading right by train station so it can be experienced and reached by train very easily google "the mall reading airsoft" yup Sandpit perhaps if you want a serious game maybe, but deffo tunnels and mall as they are 2 very different sites to normal woodland ones

hope you can bring in your stuff ok - if you have any membership of local club best bring it with you maybe somebody in legal area can help but 18+ to buy any aeg/airsoft weapon but not illegal for under 18 year old to own one so if you think that is confusing.... Even we don't always fully understand our airsoft laws/rules/regulations where abouts in London - North or South - give us a rough location and perhaps we can give you some local sites but unsure if you can bring your own stuff over due to our strict UKARA & VCRA laws I'm sure there are ways to get stuff into UK without smuggling it in in boot of car or baggage but unsure so I am not gonna advise coz I know next to jack $hit on this subject

9.6v nimah or 9.9v LiFe are around the max I would go to before needing a mosfet the zero one battery is a 3 stick crane - the middle stick can be a little fiddly to get in there but does go in, you need to probably have the stock back a click or two to fit it in there charger is ok - it is a smart charger meaning it won't keep charging or over charge the battery it stops charging once it is done - old types you have to calculate the charge time and keep checking it ain't too hot still need to keep an eye on ANY battery charging - never charge on bed/carpet but on a worktop normal common sense stuff if you are going to a full day skirmish you might get by with a 2200mah battery but depends on your gun & trigger happy etc.... many get two and change over at half time to save running out of juice halfway through afternoon newer option is lipo but all batteries will need owner to check dimensions thoroughly before ordering (lipo/life have different chargers to nimah's or you can get the more expensive "charge anything" mofo chargers)

I have said about both sides of the coin.... if we didn't have noobs it really can get boring talking about finer details of loadouts or a few about ultra high end guns than most will only dream of But it can get tedious repeating very very similar answers to very very similar questions again & again Yes every noob question can be answered with G&G it seems or ffs no to 11.1v on a JBBG you should not have bought or uhm no I don't think a DSG 60rps+ is really gonna happen as your first build This place is really a great balance and quite tolerant usually for newcomers (honestly there are a few other places out there that seems like they got their heads so far up their ar$es they never see the light of day) but catch me on a bad day and I can be a little stroppy - even though I still think of myself as a noob By all means ask questions - gets really boring without discussions - its a forum not an art gallery or book club but just have a little insight into research - heck even if you include a link or two to possible things you are considering.... Then it don't look like you - I say you but not all directed at you.... Then it don't look like the poster is a lazy f*cker who expects to be spoonfed and quite often we are left wondering was it just a tyre kicker (or bb kicker just dreaming about stuff they will never build or own or worse never even read or say fanx for replies) We got peeps on here at both ends of the spectrum - serious players and pratss like me expensive mofo guns or cheapo starters that I like to break n fix n break etc....... Usually without the growling and barking - but like I said we all can get a bit grumpy - well I can from time to time be noob by all means, but don't be a nob and not do some of your research - think that is what many were meaning (no offense to any of us out there)

welcome sir.... anybody that knows about searching is very very welcome there's loads of info - some bull$hit too though not ALL THE BULL$HIT is by me read up a bit just proves you are willing to learn - we are all still learning btw play fair, take ya hits, don't get too stressed out there it is just big kids playing with better toys guns really welcome to our big kids playground

mp5k - Galaxy as I only have cheapo guns anyway mp5k's use v3 with a weird adapter bolted on bottom of v3 and a long motor like used on v2's then you got the bigger mp5's with v2's and long motors - jeeeeez it gets confusing