Sitting Duck

The wire I'm using is thicker than 16awg turnigy by my calculations it is close to 15awg's conductive surface area silver plated copper wire eventually run as 1 wire for positive direct to motor negative - only break was at fet and had its own dedicated fet supply & signal wire which is run in shielded twin core ptfe or something there are no extra joins at all in the final wiring to account for any additional resistance the AK was the fastest 18:1 going from around 22 to 24.8 I mainly think from soldering direct to motor v2's are soldered at the elbows of motor connectors as they do weaken when bent at right angles solder applied top & bottom of connectors to maintain good connection/conductivity or whatever you wanna call it So I really can't see how I can make the wiring much better than the above Unless the 35c lipo's are really really holding me back - but saw ittle improvement between 25c & 35c 7.4v and LiFe's just lost any real middle ground they gained as a filler between 7.4v & 11.1v

I do enjoy the times we don't quite see eye to eye but we all know it is when it is all done properly the response really improves I'm gonna leave it as is for now coz I'm trying to work out where I'm going wrong atm

That device is f*cked I said that before the absolute best best best I have hit with 18:1 and 7.4v is 24.8rps that is with meter tails soldered direct to motor on a v3 so for 35 to show up on stock gears and 7.4v and full stroke even with slippery as f*ck modify ceramic bearings & Lonex motor that just rewrites all my findings........ unless you have got a mofo super frankenspeed motor or a dsg setup The HC05 dsg hit 41rps on 7.4v so I'm finding it hard to swallow a regular gun can get so close to it my recent 12:1 setup hit 33rps on 7.4v - so if your gun is beating that then I really really gotta get me some 60c lipo's asap

you are getting 40rps already ??? and the gun still lives ???? - let alone feeds ok if that gun is cycling at 40rps on full stroke piston with a stock spring heck even with a m120 full stroke I'm doing something very very wrong coz I've had numerous smashed boxes taking the pi$$ like than on full stroke I'm finding that very hard to believe that she is still living at that speed - harder to imagine than the response/switch on time of the mosfet On a full stroke piston you would need a mofo spring to get a piston to return quick enough before the sector tries to grab the piston again Not tried it myself but reckon getting to say m140 min but probably still close so reckon m150 to avoid PE on full stroke pistons but only on guns like AK47 & 455mm+ barrels would you need full or fullish stroke rather than SS for say 400mm barrels & below with a full stroke - forget the cylinder porting the full stroke energy being released on m140/150 would place your gun at near 500fps plus the extra strain on motor would reduce that 40rps Can't get my head round 40rps if not full stroked unless mofo spring in there like I said Everytime I started to take the pi$$ it ended in tears very very quickly 40rps on 11.1v would indicate a 27rps on 7.4v so to achieve that figure alone you are running a neo motor with 13:1 gears 27rps is starting to get close if still using a m100 full stroke setup so I can't get my head round it that you can hit 40 unless you already have SS or dsg or mofo spring etc....

Not gonna get into a debate on it but fet is an additional device with additional wiring often sited further backwards.... then the current would flow from the fet to the motor after the fet's own delay or switch on time even in nano/milliseconds it prevents trigger arcing/carbon which would cause resistance etc in switching but like for like as you wouldn't fit a mosfet when the trigger contacts were shot you would replace switch - but on clean good contacts under stock conditions at least the fet does not in my mind improve trigger response.... as stated above additional device, additional wiring and has its own delay or switch on time burnt out contacts are different - the point I am making is that many people assume the mosfet is improving trigger response it on its own is not - it is safely allowing the use of higher juice to the motor using thicker wire/connectors take two exact brand new guns and a soldering iron........ fit just a mosfet to one gun and to the other fit deans instead of small tamiya to other gun & battery Then dean's gun will show trigger response than the mosfet only gun maybe in time as carbon builds up on deans gun this may get so bad in terms of resistance the mosfet gun triggers faster but like for like new clean contacts the mosfet will not show any improvement in my mind like I stated above trouble is even if it did provide a smidge more, then often people would take it that most of the response must be down to the fet it is not it is when all the items are upgraded and the fet operates to prevent additional resistance building up at switch that trigger response is improved and maintained through the larger wire/connectors with little resistance The mosfet is there as I said to prevent resistance taking place - on its own it does not in my book when fitted improve response over time it helps maintain trigger response - I will admit that but I can't see how on its own with new contacts the response will be improved in the fet Vs deans gun scenario

word of strong advice.... test on 7.4v first - especially if a neodym motor is in there (or high speed gears - if using both neo and 13:1 then I advise ordering up new parts anyway - even on 7.4v coz that could hit 30) whatever she is firing at - BPS app or record sound and count spikes on pc etc....... then get a rough idea what rof is on 7.4v first 11.1v will be 50% more..... if hitting 20rps on 7.4v you will expect to hit aprox 30rps on 11.1v Warning 25+ very slight risk but 30 good chance of PE (depends on spring strength returning piston faster/slower and also weight of piston - lighter is faster return/ swiss cheese crap etc..) if you used a plastic toothed piston it will just strip but all metal rack - no weak point to shred and it will really go bang due to all metal teeth gears etc..... you could smash your piston to f*ck AND YOUR GEARS AND YOUR MOTOR PINION GEAR IF ALL METAL ON 11.1v no $hit - it can happen if you go too nutz without homework on stock m100 or m105 springs luckily I learnt the hard way but with plastic teeth shredding, now I have a rough-ish idea what to expect so I got a reasonable idea of when I can and when I can't use all steel piston rack (built up a collection of boned pistons to attain this knowledge of what NOT to do) faster n faster stuff at 30+ has to have shortstroking and M110 - m120 is safer with 2 teeth removed I got a rough maths table I think that works out about right - will know more as I build n bone more

Stopped using Royal Mail for 2kg's+ as they just took the pi$$ on Spec Delivery up to 2kg was say £6 a few years back over 2kg it jumped to £18 !!! so an adsl modem router I was sending a m8 in desperate need for next day went in 2 boxes.... as it was the psu that was heaviest & router thingy went in proper box with cables disc etc.... Right Mr Postal counter - explain that to me.... 2 x parcels £12 & 2 tracking crap numbers.... 1 parcel @ £18 simple easier to process etc.... Since then I use Parcel Pete / UK Mail / iPost Parcels 98% of stuff gets there very next day - trackable with 1hr expected delivery time plus drop off Friday afternoon and they try for Saturday delivery at no extra charge the odd discounts codes pop up on various sites like hot UK deals etc..... Ffffforget Royal Mail bell ends

me thinks not - go for 60c instead - jeeeez I'm content with 25 to 35c performance atm plus sticking to 7.4v and squeeze out every last drop (without the pips or pulp)

Capacitors ???? nah that is old skool way of boosting ya charge on crappy nimah's really don't think anybody still does that - they just fit bigger and higher burst lipo's (some yanks go nutz on 14.8v - jjeeeezzz how fast ya need to go chaps) if ya got lipo you got plenty of mojo a lot of these guides are old but the fet malarky is still in use often many still use 3034 as best airsoft fet the capacitors - like for holding charge is obselete with lipo's now being the norm they can unleash juice quicker tha you can rip open a carton of Del Monte or Ocean Spray

I'm no expert - far from it well even further from it when you see how the real techy pro's can fit these basic 3034's inside their gearboxes: yes I am but a humble trainee apprentice noob actually still think fitting inside a box is not a very wise option if I wanna change out a basic to AB fet or even a prgrammable one at least I don't have to open gearbox up but maybe for some compact guns - even AEP's people have managed to squeeze in a fet in the tighest of places clever mofo's out there - G&G fet dept should take note

it is to prevent any back surge of current or something so the fet bible says..... I got an alternative spec tvs diode coz could not locate exact model but similar spec bollox - makes it a bit bulky but like I say I often use stubby fixed stocks for good size cheap block batteries in M4's v2 will need box opening to install wiring for fet v3 can be fitted without needing to open up gearbox like in V2's major decision is how thick the wire you can use and where to locate the fet itself on its own the fet does jack $hit except protect the contacts on heavier juice it is an additional device to switch on so in reality I guess it adds a few nano seconds in a normal stock gun it does not imho give you faster trigger response or make you more attractive to women etc..... it is when you rewire with thicker wire + deans that the fet comes into its own and it is the other bits that give the faster response not the mosfet - the fet just allows us to safely switch higher juice for heavier loads on juicy motors etc.... That is where the trigger response comes from - not the fet itself the fet just manages the bigger juice safely keeping your contacts looking good rather than deep fried

linky for the way I do it: http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?7516-Rusty65-s-MOSFET-building-guide and also same stuff here: http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/08/26/how-to-make-a-basic-mosfet-switch/ diode is a pain but they use one - so who am I to argue if you are making one - make a few.... for what it is worth - the #6 bolts equate to our M3.5 bolts yes M3.5 - M4 is a bit too big to go through fet eyelet and M3 is a bit thin M3.5 is the bolts used is electric socket/switches in ya house but you need a m3.5 nut spring washer That is the usual basic fet gospel, some use other mosfet's but the 3034 is said to be one of the best ones available well that is the way I do it.... only minor difference toi Rusty65 is that I wrap the resistor across fet - leave resistor wire excess for now... position the diode leg the right leg where it goes - then wrap the excess around diode leg to hold in place & solder same for signal wire resistor - fitted by wrapping the excess around it & solder just a bit extra help holding it all together when soldering them to fet legs get the bits ready & shaped - wrapped together - ttsszz ttsszz - fet done repeat for other 2 or 3 fets - sorted

RS are cheap for 3034's if you buy 10 they are like £1:52 or something... http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet-transistors/6887204/?searchTerm=IRLB3034PBF&relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D49524C423330333450424626&sra=p Is where I bought mine from Cheaper than farnell and free ship on £30 or something like that Get some wire n some other bits, maybe get a m8 to go halves with ya etc.... People think it's a lot of messing about, best thing is make a few at a time once you got iron up to temp. Not much effort really, besides you gotta do same amount of soldering n care when fitting a pre-made mosfet

Yeah you gotta go £100 for decent gun s/hand But tbh you could get a gun on its last legs £123 Raider is best option 99.999999999% cheap guns are $hit I have found

Firestorm fet £10 with thermal fuse delivered Baby mofo fet if you don't wanna make your own 99.9% fet's blow from bad fitting The decent ones I mean Cheap snides fail no matter who fits them

What is underneath basic fet ??? And F U C K ME them 2 neg wires are close hence tab Middle n right legs jeez lots of shrink on them Curious as to the underneath bit thingy Coz looks thick something or a flat TVS diode?? Soz for commenting, my soldering ain't perfect I use chunky TVS coz in stubby stocks I got plenty room Stock tube might be different

You got a link to this "double tap" MOSFET ??? Tbh it looks like a normal 3034 one without a TVS diode Which many use even though a 3034 has some basic protection. By the way you should use the tab for negative motor wire Keeps voltage well away from 2 outside wires plus the tabe handles much more current Think it's Rusty's guide or something I based my stuff on But same meat different gravy £2 to £2.50 per fet cost if you buy say 10 or more Just make sure you get GENUINE ones The snides from fleabay just melt

Ahhhhh - now see then it will drop to nearly 200fps on Sunday as it is a day of rest no it won't, slight deviation on chrono to chrono but they should be bang on near enough I found at my home/site over time the spring can lose tension - btw when you finish firing - remove mag & fire two shots on semi to clear gun this is to prevent your pooping out your 50" plasma TV or somebody's eye always have to do this when exiting the combat zone - all mags out & guns cleared when entering safe zone Dead zone is NOT safe zone - safe zone is where peeps don't have to wear eye pro so all guns MUST be safe flip side of firing 2 shots on semi apart from ensuring gun is cleared.... gun should come to rest with spring not compressed or only slightly starting to compress store gun half cocked and spring will lose tension very quickly also empty mags or at very least release the any bb's under tension in high caps you guessed it - mag spring loses tension and over time mag won't feed well or feed very few bb's before loads of winding needed

think they allow an absolute limit of up to 340fps but though I went it was only for a recent show the quick games I was looking forward to playing didn't start by late morning and thought wtf I'm off hiome yup we got a few spares, always handy and lent the a team mate one when in past when they got no juice left it is horrible only playing 3/4 of a day in the beginning, especially near the end when everybody goes nutz at end of day often full on TDM infinate respawn or Terminator or crazy games get played then or some fool who went skirmishing near their birthday is being lit up yeah bit of a bummer sitting out near the end coz ya got no mojo left in ya gun

I started out with a bit cheaper guns - plinky guns or just a tiny bit better that broke after a trigger happy full day skirmish or two tried to repair but often they ain't designed to be repaired just bin/replaced (my noobish tech skills were dire then but at least I broke stuff that was already semi-boned) Learnt a bit from them nightmares and really appreciated better quality guns later on ICS & G&G pi$$ all over cheap SRC's and other cheap makes from JBBG note SRC's were Gen 1 - Gen 3 are better I'm told, well couldn't be much worse Yes I broke my G&G CM18 - first AR latch failed (weird never had that happen since to any gun) then fixed snapping pickup tooth off - not once but twice off piston This is why you do AoE and a good reason not to just chuck in a neo motor and 11.1v Wow this is great - BANG, bollox no it ain't Since then I have got a little better - at breaking stuff but I have learnt to not take the pi$$ so much on stock guns out of box with a bit of work inside Seriously advise people to just get some use out their guns and only look to mess with it when the GUN needs it - not the OWNER I admit to most of my screw ups loads of time so people fully understand the risks of messing about or pushing any gun too much too quickly. Gladly share my success stories and numerous failures I've done (still doing plenty of them) I can blow up stuff as I have the odd - ahem "spare" but others with one or their first aeg should tread carefully Just get it - use it & enjoy it, many think they are gonna do this n that & build dsg etc... - over rated imho A good player can kick ar$e with almost any gun, good performing guns help but it is the good players not the good guns that win the games To me it don't matter $hit I just go to blow up guns and have fun

Anybody who looks down on 2-toner's must also have a low opinion on renters too to me it is all about the fun factor - £ for £ I bet a 14yr old with a £125 Z1 raider is having more fun than a snobby middle aged player with expensive toys getting the hump being shot by kids Actually that sounds like me a bit but I really accept I get ar$e handed to me without new players starting somewhere it can get very stale and even risk of site not continuing due to regulars giving up I pay little attention to people's guns - it is the person not the gun I like or dislike - forget what toy they are holding Fine clothes do not make the gentleman - as my late father used to say (we are/were both scruffy sods but besides that fairly decent blokes)

If it ain't broke don't try to fix it is best advice with lots of guns.... For starters you need to see how any gun compares and G&G are very often ready go out of box Most G&G's are 330fps they are fine for any site Their value for money, the moment you pick it up after holding other plastic starter guns - it feels much better Inside is good tried n tested internals - yes they are the Fords of airsoft but inside is a good Ford Pinto engine I don't think they use 6.04's - likely their higher end Top-Tech guns use a 6.04 maybe but not the CM range I think most new owners should just get out there, use it and get to know their new CM ain't gonna hit 80, 90 100m but most likely 45 - 60m which is still good just make sure you pull the trigger when target is in range as many blame the gun instead of the owner not knowing his gun's abilities Hop is good - I'd say better than most plastic hops in starter guns Green bucking is regarded as very good for a starter gun as well Owners should be using these for many months without any thought of needing to upgrade anything Any upgrades can improve but also even high quality upgrades can be fitted poorly and performance can be worse No aeg will beat the accuracy of a sniper - well TM vs JBBG sniper but you get the idea it is a toy electric gun that pew pew pee pew plasic balls out the end but is a very good starter pee pwew Perfectly fine as is imho - to break them as good as I do takes skill - or rather lack of it

Almost any decent M4 mag will do n feed ok in a G&G when finished shooting it is wise to empty mag or at very least release the tension from wound spring on mag before storing this is to prevent mag losing spring tension being stored fully wound resulting in weak spring - basically you will find you will have to wind it more n more as she will fire only say half a dozen shots before dry firing and need more winding etc etc...... before you ask - dunno how many shots per winding - it varies maybe 20 or 30 but to be honest I have never bothered counting - if its very little I know its a crap mag/spring

I dunno - there isn't much in it, it is all down to who has stock/price inc shipping and how quick you need stuff as always there is a "slight" risk of paying duty from Hong Kong if stopped but 2 small boxes arrived ok without charge when I wrongly ordered from HK instead of EU you have numerous locations/options - click open in new tab if you like to explore all options end of the day won't make much difference what you get as long as it fits/works it is a lot cheaper than buying batteries from Airsoft shops like Zero One etc.... £20 for a 2200mah nimah old skool crane battery + £16 or more on old skool smart charger £36 or £56 if 2 batteries bought !!!!! yeah right - fffffforget that but loads n loads add to cart and a cheapo raider @ £123 jumps to £200+ very easily

0.20's and 0.25's for slight better range on most guns should of grabbed a bag of BAW's @ Airsoftworld - they are pretty decent I found other than that buy small qty's if trying out different brands - local site's bb's are usually ok (otherwise players would be saying - Oi these are crap bb's)