Sitting Duck

May I ask what loadout you was using today

 

fires lasers then shoots all over the place...

 

Hmmm Stormtrooper jokes inbound...

 

I know it is the Hungarian phrasebook

but think Monty Python needs to compile a

Polish>English one for TWG perhaps

 

 

actually they might already be using it perhaps

If your gun works at home perfectly

but screws up on site

 

make your own CQB site in your house

never have an issue with your gun again

 

might have buy a new TV, mirrors, lights etc...

but your gun will thank you for it

If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only

& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps

 

Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly

If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely

eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector

(or as little as possible)

 

Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust

BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself

 

Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase

on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot

Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th

 motor much quicker than a ferrite motor

 

On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer

The neodym motor slows much much much quicker

In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both

But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box

So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps

 

A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor

 

 

YES with AB off the motor spins more

BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does

This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster

But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would

 

Now as said, ON THE BENCH

In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily

So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is

between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps

 

But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB

to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less

 

AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock

or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly

 

When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof

 

If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)

then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB

 

I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself

(than reversing the polarity at the motor)

 

TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can 

Just the spur/step/middle gear usually...

 

Bevel has 10 teeth still

(Usually)

Spur is very very slightly different with an extra tooth or something

 

18:1 is actually 18.65:1 or something

 

16:1 is actually 17.25:1 in most cases

Think a VFC 16:1 set/spur comes out at 16.5:1, but most 16:1's are 17:25:1

 

It is just the spur that is slightly different

 

You can use the 16:1 spur for a SR25 keeping the 19 tooth sector

or use a 16:1 spur in a DSG setup

Yeah people use the bevel in the set to ensure smooth compatibility, but essentially they are the same 10 tooth bevels in 12, 13, 16 & 18:1 sets

 

Well unless they contain the 9 or 8 tooth bevel type of thing - it's the same bevel, just spur alters in a 16:1 set.

16:1 Sector is same or compatible with 18:1 sectors

 

The rof doesn't alter much, coz the actual ratio doesn't change that much @ 17.25:1 instead of say 16.5:1 you was expecting.

 

TLDR

 

Yeah it is all compatible

Bummer, 22rps should have been OK

 

Stock piston must have been made from DairyLea or quite old & worn if still original stock one

 

Yeah magnet on sector for Area ECU sensor

If using 16:1 set, the sectors are same in 16 & 18:1 sets

 

How was the game playing with the cheaters/cheetah's ???

Told you it was fucked (if 16rps on 11.1v)

 

Commutator badly worn with a deep dip in it, you'd struggle to recut

Brushes, barely anything left - maybe even on second set ???

Copper/carbon everywhere below motor in grip - ok you cleaned it up maybe

But that motor was very worn

 

Either commutator/brushes gave it up

Or

A winding burnt out

 

But by the 11.1v performance you was getting it sounded like it was on its last legs/windings