Sitting Duck

Really - I've got one 11.1v that is a bit puffy but not noticed it on my usual 7.4v's one of them got run really low that gun failed to cycle but still works which I was quite amazed at - thought yeah that lipo is shagged I mean they come charged up - to what actual volts I don't know probably 3.7v-ish per cell What I will say is that a cheap B3 type balance charger was deffo over charging a bit - maybe 4.25v+ per cell and that may not have helped Also if anybody gets a LiFe battery - well don't coz think they ain't that great DO NOT USE A LIPO OR LIPO SETTING as these are 3.3v cells if you charge a LiFe up to 4.2v it will damage the LiFe battery some chargers have a LiFe function or setting - so use the LiFe setting for LiFe batteries - not LiPo settings

You do understand that nozzle retracted is nothing to be alarmed about in operation on its own.... By the time the first tooth on a 16 sector gear engages the pickup up tooth, I would say the tappet is already drawn back 90% - at least 80% of its travel already. By the time the piston is released - the tappet cam is at about 3:30 o'clock, meaning it has only one quarter revolution before it begins to retract tappet plate again. A little overspin - piston being retracted is fine but if after doing various tweaks you still are not happy then an AB Mosfet should reduce it - but I wouldn't bother myself If the gun is firing ok then the main problem is sorted Nozzle retraction will happen in nigh on most guns - stop worrying about nozzle see if piston is over well over half way retracted or double firing in semi - then you are running present setup too fast stronger spring + SS if possible if that was the case Gun fires - problem sorted - no worries Think you will find your gun very likely retracted the tappet before you opened it up unless AB mosfet that slows/stops the motor very quickly or you run it very slowly rof like 10rps the box will run on a bit and retract tappet anyway As said by the time the first tooth on sector gear engages the piston (AoE corrected btw) and just prepares to pull piston The tappet plate is already @ 85% retraction As guns cycle quicker with higher volts/juice, stronger motor etc... this over-run will increase if you are pushing a stock gun into 20's you will get some over-spin and piston itself getting a little pre-cocked If gun starts to fire twice on semi - you are pushing too much 20rps is fine with a tiny bit of over run or pre-cocking 25rps starts to over run a bit much & double fires 30rps deffo double fires and danger of Pre Engagement so keep it moderate - to save storing gun with spring compressed or pre-cocked use a lower/old/used battery that ensures the gun parks without piston /spring compressed the tappet plate will be retracted in nigh on most guns unless AB or very slow speeds

search button helps http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28401-moving-to-lipos-whadda-i-need-to-know/ not typing all that crap again discharge - nah sod that - remove lipo and as long as they stay above 3v per cell they will charge fine as long as they don't charge above max 4.2v per cell that is fine in a perfect world cells balance perfectly - but hey ho if that don't always work use a bit of common sense - if they look puffed or damaged then replace a little puff is fine - don't puncture them or you will regret it like I did

safe as houses....

Think BOT with CM = polymer receiver The BOT with Skull = metal receiver There are numerous models out there so look at a number of them and check/ask loads tbh G&G polymers are fine - nigh on most of mine are all polymer G&G's all I'm saying don't think a metal Combat Machine is a MUST have be all & end all type of thing Bot is 200 or 205mm barrel CM18 is 275 I think - perhaps best looking classic polymer Combat Machine M4 that looks/ticks most boxes - well for me anyway

Whooaaaaa - easy there fella - these youngsters hate history (keep telling my son - don't worry about your history test results too much - it's all in the past anyway) But when I see an ol' classic Ford or rare TR7 still running - miracle for TR7 coz it just rusts away after 10 years let alone 30-40 yrs But yeah JambWow & Dom @ BBGuns4Less should be flogging these as Zombie G&G's nah - probably not, it would make their other stuff look really realy crap btw in our first flat we did a "trendy" blue like the other Raider - Blue & Yellow bathroom Thought it was very modern - nah looking back it looked like a Little Tykes Play House bathroom I guess

Sell it as Rare Zombie Outbreak Edition thought you was getting a receiver or did that fall through on here ??? end of the day it ain't that bad - bit of cammo tape should help or if playing indoors - uhm cammo don't work that great anyway unless you go for all black ninja style and keep to the shadows Yes you could flogg it as is if that is bother ya too much or wait and see what gun you want next.... Still can sell it at some point as a 2-tone gun but really it isn't as bad as you think bit of cammo tape is the most I'd go, easy to remove if a bit sticky alcho wipes or washing up liquid but still look presentable rather than start creating an abortion of a spray job that will only chip off over time - unless you boat it with loads of varnish/laquer Most important is if it shoots ok which it should do in fact people love to run with pinky's stop worrying and save ya money I think for another gun

back on topic rather than what may or may not void warranty.... Is it painted and where - is it a solid blue polymer receiver or just over painted G&G did do some colours and a clear receiver too for the Carbine and some others but seem to have dropped these or retailers are not buying the coloured receivers any more AirsoftZone though do some odd 2-tone guns with white CM on them so wonder if they actually buy these coloured receiver G&G guns: http://airsoftzone.co.uk/airsoft-guns/two-tone Kinda think the blue one is best - well better than zombie green edition as some JBBG might bull$hit ya Rare G&G Raider - Zombie Outbreak Edition - lol Think I've just given JambWow another money making idea to sell to new players (best gun evvaaaa) post a pic - look inside magwell etc... see if it is solid colour or black underneath (perhaps a small scratch inside magwell will confirm coloured or painted receiver)

Think re-shelling a gun would perhaps void warranty or certainly infringe upon it yes the sticker on gearbox would remain intact but I can smash the gearbox to f*ck without opening it up high voltage, bb jam, keep firing gun - BOOOOM even with a fuse protection still there

where is the stock tube mount ? charging handle has to be swapped over from old receiver plus selector etc..... like I say a complete full receiver should be available for about £50 but tbh it is up to you

300 BOT Supposed to have a mosfet but does not metion the flawed ETU If you look carefully the ETU pictures at airsoftzone actually show a new type receiver as fitted to SR FFR Predator's etc.... The 300 BOT is a normal CM receiver - so the pictures shown with ETU are incorrect Also on G&G website there is no mention of a mosfet at all http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_300BOT_manual.pdf http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/gc16_300bot.php?lang=en note look at either the CM16 300 - polymer receiver or the GC16 with skull metal receiver version None mention the mosfet nor an ETU that usually found with 3rd burst dairy lea mosfet that works/don't work depending on battery or time of the month (thank f*ck) I have noticed a few innaccuracies on G&G site FFR2 A2 is always listed as having a 260mm barrel but must be same as BOT's 205mm barrel coz that is what I measured it as Retailers say it has a mosfet even a youtube review says mosfet though no mention of 3rd burst so presume basic std mosfet http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?cPath=268_318_403_494&products_id=4398 So - unless you get some better clarification on the BOT I wouldn't bother but get a CM18 instead is my personal gut feeling As for your Raider - spray/fairy it - sod buying a new receiver - even one for about £50 tbh it is a Raider - it will never be a TM - well yeah you could go nutz but it will still look like a Raider Nothing wrong with that - think I'd customise it a little but sod reshelling it No offense and it is just my opinion but just use it as it is and maybe some tweaks/service don't go nutz though - that money should be put towards another good gun sadly not all G&G's are highly recommended by me - but that is just my take on them it is your money and your choice but be careful about what G&G you buy next is all I say

Sigh, the important thing is to keep barrel clean..... yes silicone will assist bb's to slide down the barrel with nearly zero drag BUT if a tiny tiny drop of silicone mist of gets on that bucking in hop - you are gonna notice the crappy effects and until you totally strip that hop down it will remain like that for quite some time So the general advice is for people to NOT use silicone until you have gained experience in barrel cleaning you learn exactly where your hop is and keep a good inch or 25.4mm away from it at least Cleaning the barrel with alcho wipes is the main thing - cheap and easy to use The cleaning rod that you use - mark it where you feel the hop unit is cleaning the barrel first of all crud that builds up to stop the bb dragging on this crud will help maintain performance so do that just with alcho wipes for a good while..... if at a later date the you wish to polish it with silicone then you are aware of the risks of contaminating the hop rubber or bucking It does help to reduce drag but like I said get it on your bucking and you won't get the backspin you should be getting So bb's or their range is actually worse and you are screwed - complete strip down or replace bucking THAT is why we do not recommend silicone for barrel cleaning tbh it is good really but ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND UNDERSTAND THE RISKS !!!! only a very very small amount is needed and you buff it with a dry cloth to polish it - well away from hop unit If anybody is thinking this is way way OTT try this....... apply a small tiny amount of silicone on your kitchen floor..... polish it up with dry cloth - now you see how slippery it is as your nearly break ya neck walking on it if that is your bucking - it is f*cked !!! now get some hot water, washing up liquid, lots of bubbles/lather, get on your knees and try to de-grease that silicone before you have a bloody accident ACTUALLY - don't put it on floor - polish say a worktop as you will avoid breaking your neck or others that use that kitchen It is very very slippery stuff but can cause more grief if used improperly..... So just clean barrel with alcho wipes - that will do wonders on its own Silicone if used needs very very very very careful application in the most smallest of amount and polished and polished dry Spraying, pouring, soaking the cloth in silicone - that is just a waste of time and you may as well start stripping down the barrel/hop now Think that should get the message across to most people - hope so coz I'm done on this

measure old battery - uhm cheap plastic digital caliper gauge for a few quid is brill for stuff like this but if not try and measure it with a ruler - just caliper mesures stuff very quickly especially the diameter of cells etc... then armed with dimensions go to component shop or http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/multifinder.asp?t=lipo see what is about, and what your options are best bargains will be the "block" type but as HobbyKing are RC mainly connectors will be deans or XT-60 you probably will need small tamiya so options are resolder or buy adapter component shop should sort you out with correct connector lipo already chargers - 2 types really, B3 that charges through balance lead - a little slowly or the bad boy B6 type charges anything as fast as you like buy genuine or good make chargers, follow common sense charging tips and don't forget to factor in a bit of extra space for wires/balance connector etc..... don't get the absolute fattest battery you can squeeze in - drop your max size limit a couple of mm or you might find you can't quite squeeze that battery in there like the 9.6v you are thinking of using

link to gearbox ??? Thought G&P weren't exactly $hit hot internally Lonex boxes seem to be built more precise but not cheap - think they use 16:1 gearing SRC guns "can" be a bit qwirky - but tbh that could be said for a lot of so-called TM compatible badge SRC gearboxes come in 3 gen's or types - you could have a cheapo 1st gen with 6mm plastic bushings or a 3rd gen with 8mm metal bushings/bearings in I personally buy say a £50-£60 box to see if that works better if fully 101% compatible then strip and service your old SRC box - normally the box that came with your gun if ok is the one that should work best or best fit/operation nozzle lengths, box shell thickness even, everything all perfectly lining up 101% is stuff we all take for granted but numerous factors and different boxes can be a nightmare or headache to sort if there are differences between two gearboxes A lonex box is reported to be a very good sound box for people seeking a great drop in replacement but not cheap - over £100 - £135 (dunno if I'd ever pay that much myself) could get a £50 one from Hong Kong but they might come with a high spring could get a quick change spring gearbox but some of these use micro switches and can burn out trigger contacts on higher batteries it will be ok for a while on 7.4v or 8.4v but no more tbh whilst that is in your gun you can look at servicing your old box Or - maybe just send it to a tech coz so called "upgrading" is not as easy as we all think and often make an ok gearbox worse if you don't take great care £100 is nothing in upgrade terms - a £50 box with £50 upgrade parts is really only as good as how they were fitted and only as reliable as the weakest component inside

Funny thing is - reckon about 25% of hits to your back is your own bell-end team shooting you with friendly fire love that one - friendly fire, Oi - colour you tw*t uhm I can talk - think anything from 10 to 20% of my kills are of the "oooops sorry m8" kind I need new glasses and message to self - think ya daft old sod before you pull the trigger

Let's hope you get it sorted ok it is Easter but still thought people would of picked up today being Mourndy Thursday

http://www.justcauseairsoft.co.uk/index.php?route=information/contact Ring them ??? Not sure if it was these guys but was a place I stumbled across that looked similar Run by ethusiastic players and stuff but a fair bit looked like they was bulk buying from poland like iwholesalers do But this place looks quite ok at first glance - dynatex dominators and stuff that poland don't sell me thinks FaceBook has a bit more info: https://www.facebook.com/Just-Cause-Airsoft-233763853308370/ give them a bell perhaps - think it might be more inexperience web site or retail experience I would like to think always like to give people benefit of the doubt - then if that fails I'll f*cking slate them as well - lol soz, just like to moan about most stuff but like to give people a chance first when things go a little squiffy pre thanks to Lozart for his wise words of wisdom, as per usual they do look ok to me, think it really is like a place run by players maybe not ultra perfect in retail experience or website etc..... but deffo reckon they should be decent chaps when you give them a call

CM18 is one of my favourites - but as Trigger says - all G&G's are the exact same - just tarty front ends mainly.... Raider - Long, perhaps a bit too long I think at 357 The short version is "supposed" to be 233 but tbh I don't trust G&G's own measure measurements at all lately Think I'm gonna have measure the short raider coz really think G&G might have got measurements wrong like on ffr a2 barrel specs The front M4 sight can't be removed - looks like it can but can't is is cast into the outer barrel - if you fit optic or other stuff Then the front sight might still obscure unless a slightly higher mount - probably won't obscure but it might pi$$ you off a bit Hacksaw is what some have resorted to - a bit of a drastic bodge imho but to replace outer barrel n stuff is going some for a Raider The dust cover don't drop down - Oh no, it isn't a proper M4 - bollox my B500A1 drops down but the Raider pi$$es all over the BullDog / Bull$hit gun So big deal if dust cover down drop down - ffs it is still a great starter gun for £123 CM18 - sexy 2-tone RIF effect but if buying a 2-tone IF - no it will kill the look of the gun more than say Raider - in effect a 3-tone or something It just looks so damn wrong - normally I do not scoff or look down on 2-toners at all - we was all in the same boat BUT - imho you DON'T buy a 2-toned or 3-toned CM18 Mod 0 if you can help it - it just kills the look of it Soz this is just my opinion - people can do whatever the f*cking like - it is their money & their gun - just it is designed to look black/tan or tan/black Anyway other pro's con's of the gun..... Con's - imho Mag - hmmm G&G mid-caps can be a bit picky and think they should of just included a 300/450 hi-cap instead but still there ya go So you need a speed loader to fill the mag - G&G think about it and maybe consider chucking a loader in or a f*cking hi-cap so people can just use it Front flash hider - hmm bit G36-ish and the screw on suppressor type - woohoo, well some of the suppressor's I had don't fit on that great but that is probably coz I only got cheap $hit quality made in china ones - sod it fit a normal suppressor of another flash hider instead Pro's - imho Flip - well actually folding sights - and they are very nice looking ones too as fitted to FireHawk Perfect already to slap on optics etc.... but good iron sights on their own - £27 to buy these sights btw Nice black/tan or tan/black colour - stands out from other guns in that range The RIS though plastic looks like an expensive metal RIS with allen key bolts etc..... - it just looks a nice gun imho Barrel length 275 - nice length to sit well for woodland or CQB, not too long & not too short Yes we go on about barrel length not really mattering for distance but the 275 is a nice size and really short 110mm barrels - you are going to have go some to get really tight groupings but in effect most stock guns will spread a little no matter what barrel you got in there out of box usually 250 to 350 or 300mm aprox is what many use in most M4's That is it on those first two guns - don't have the CQB Mini - and not likely to bother with it I don't rate or care for blowback, more crap to go wrong and just a gimmick for me as I don't do mil-sim I know these are toy guns, I don't need the clackety clack crap or shakey shakey malarky - I shoot for $hits n giggles I personally have never loved the thread ring on some RIS's - the allen key mount looks more uhm ergh manly beefy tactical - uhhm gun-ified I guess but that is just my opinion and looks to be honest really means f*ck all, it is what the owner likes so don't take my opinions or tastes as set in stone If getting a 2-tone the raider long or maybe short is a great option to get you going if getting a RIF then CM18 as it just looks a little wrong painted but suppose some Fairy Power Spray and a lot of elbow grease though the crane stock if painted is a bitch - I gave up on a Green Raider Crane stock - really embedded into it way too much even for Fairy There isn't much in any of the G&G Combat Machines - they are all basically the same inside - just tarty outer front ends really My take on blowback is just my opinion - a number of people use G&G blowback's - just on these if you starting pushing them to silly speeds Well it isn't that wise to build a 30rps blowback as bits tend to wear or fly off when going nutz Blow-backs do add to realism though anybody will tell you it isn't like a gas blowback and even then still nothing a real gun (I fired a Desert Eagle on a range is US and one word: F U CK or 2 words more like: F U C K M E - crazy $hit )

try an ASG / Armalite 120rnd mag - somebody at a site must have one of them £50 for 10 and feed nigh on in most guns or you got a problem

it depends on each individual person and gun battery space and how beefy you wish to go really along with what batteries you already have to hand 20 up to 33rps can be achieved on just a 7.4v SSG with neodym motors (later figure is with higher speed gears & SS) 40rps - heard somebody got 45rps on a DSG on 7.4v but dunno what final fps was The figures could be nunged up some more if you choose to run 60c mofo lipo's Then add in nearly 50% if you replace 7.4v with 11.1v and you got a stupid hose machine that is just beyond stupid End of day - for most people:

Oi - behave, well yeah kinda understand it a bit with recent "new & not so improved" G&G's In my case that is the broken/faulty gun aisle, but hope to finally assemble this 90% SHS & 10% G&G mofo shell back together for weekend unless I find anything other "made of toffee/dairy lea" G&G quality engineering....

The SPR will be fine if it shoots 410fps - gotta be m125 in there so will slow the gun quickly... it is when people take this pi$$ (like moi) when people take the pi$$ on std uk stuff this "can" get risky still looking for the pixie dust though - can this be bought through Krytac dealers actually forget the dust a sec - the words dust and dealers may attract the wrong people to this thread - my bad

Think you can get a very good rof/response with just a 7.4v if done well but I got say 75% 7.4v's in my lipo collection - usually 25c smaller, cheaper etc.... Anyone know the gearing used ? - 18:1 or 16:1 like I found in a VFC 416 box I think it was normally found that it is about 25rps + that serious over-run & double firing starts to take place on m100/105 setup If that gun starts to over-run or double fire on 7.4v - you would have to be an idiot to try a similar 11.1v in there = CRUNCH Think tbh with a 7.4v & 30k you can't be hitting much more than 20rps or @ 30+ on 11.1v you will get problems If however Krytac have their own Fairy or Pixie dust in there like TM - can somebody tell me my nearest stockist please (All the dust I bought on fleabay looks like it came out of somebody's vacuum cleaner and just clogs up the gears)

It was the bit: Doing the job properly - well better Echo take JG n others and improve upon them And meant Krytac = job properly as well well better - meaning always room for improvement Eg mk2 and could use 30k, m120 and SS like TM Hi cycle But yeah kinda understand 20k a bit to prolong life a bit if nutters wanna run 11.1v on STD m100 setup etc... Also I'm sure if UK specs were running quicker than US some may not like that too much

They got 2 rooms at the Mall - one could be gun room but be bitch to drink a cup of tea with full face on - lol anyway on public days it would be heaving so they need both rooms anyway if using the toilet with full face mask on think it would get pretty steamed up squeezing one out Sorry couldn't resist lowering the tone and derailing threads as per usual - uhm carry on with more constructive comments