Sitting Duck

Depends on gun, motor and if a MOSFET is used You can hit 30 on a 7.4v or 40 rps on a 7.4v DSG Have heard people reach 45rps on 7.4v but that is really really going some Lipo's pi$$ over nimah's but only available in 7.4 11.1 or crazy 14.8v LiFe batteries are at 9.9v but don't quite pack same punch as lipo imho. Nimah's in 7.2 8.4 9.6 10.8 or 12v are OK but old skool and seem to die we quicker or at least lose charge quicker But end of day use what you have to hand Though know this: S/hand nimah's often can be on their way out for holding their charge imho

Trigger can answer this better but lets say I found out that flat hops & maybe r-hops don't work ultra brilliant on tight bores I tried a 6.02 zci with prommy flat nub (bridged) blue I think and did f*ck all really in fact a longer cyma stock barrel n hop unit seemed better but hey ho maybe I fitted it all badly but learnt many use a normal or slightly wider bore with higher end hop setups

Ahhhh soz if I jumped the gun a bit - excuse the pun just didn't want you to start ripping open the box too soon yes what you seek is mainly down to the barrel/hop/bucking please leave box well alone for now - often it don't need touching until it starts to go tits up

if you are quite new to ripping aeg's apart then I strongly suggest you try to gain experience on a cheaper Combat Machine or something first especially if you bought a new £200-£250 WE 416 yes you can do this n that to nigh on any aeg but if learning - well we all are still learning tbh but if starting out - either start to rip apart cheaper guns first and learn from possible mistakes or really really read up loads and loads and loads - watch vids and open your first box inside a carrier bag (often your first gearbox opening results in $hit flying everywhere...) personally - if gun is ok but you just want to up your rof then maybe change motor to a shs torque but keep lipo to 7.4v should get you to say 18rps - especially if you go down the deans route no more juice or trigger contacts will burn out until you install a mosfet later on... once gun starts to play up over time - THEN look to open her up and replace bits as needed but try to resist buying a nice gun and thinking about ripping her open asap

been perfecting my cqb skills.... Like a pro - I'm gonna kick ar$e (mostly my own I think)

The more I see bad bitchy vids the more embarrassed I get that I play with toy guns.... Don't get me wrong I had one instance that I was 101% certain I could not be shot from enemy approaching. Some guy was telling a marshal I wasn't taking my hit but no way could he get me with a direct hit that bit I was 101% certain at the time... Now a marshal test fired me but I was sure it was a ricochet shot or two.... Was in fact the marshal hitting me and THEN the bb bouncing onto wood. Not the other way round as I was thinking... I was never firing at enemy not that this matters but was just peeking through a tiny tiny hole giving my team heads up on the enemy Anyway long story short.... I was f*cking pig sick guttec when it came to light on a timed team attack game. So much so I couldn't focus and quickly got taken out on the next two defends.. Which was the least I could do to possibly ammend for not taking my hit in first defend I say taking my hit but still to this day am pretty adamant that a player on the attacking team could not have got a clear straight shot at me. But the marshal test firing me I feel even worse about. Hopefully I would like to think he don't think I am a not hit taking cheater but I really felt gutted for rest of afternoon. Normally I have just called it, a guy at Epsom tunnel was sure he shot me at like 4ft away I said OK m8 but I'm sure I would of felt it but we shook hands back at safe zone. I just go for fun but bitchy posts and cheaters and lighting up players for fun or revenge is starting to put me off if people take this toy gun malarky THAT serious Soz for waffle - carry on chaps

Adjust motor height a little Small Allen key under pistol grip But turn clockwise say 1/2 a turn at a time Should only need a full turn Max What concerns me is if something broke causing a lockup to blow fuse. And/or some teeth chipped off. The pistol grip could have worked loose or motor plate in grip loosened causing motor height to drop But there is a chance something else may have crapped out. Your gun ain't turning over and them gears ain't meshing right. Don't keep doing that coz you will just mess up bevel & pinion gears. Turn Allen key clockwise say 1/2 a turn and see if she cycles and shuts up

Not bad.... But real mofo guru techy video Look for: Shut up gears !!! On YouTube By John Rogers That guy knows his stuff And if I could get a box to sound like his I'd be over the moon. Son't get me wrong - think John Rogers goes way too much into it tbh and even with his drilling holes in box there is still room for tolerances like if pinion hits some of the AR cams on bevel or not will throw out the max height I think your method of getting motor height correct by eye is just as good with pinion just engaging bevel 101% but instead of "guessing" the shims on top of bevel the dial depth gauge will give you a nigh on exact measurement then with a digital caliper in 0.01mm you can attain the exact shim required for the top of the bevel gear first time also at same time as measuring the bevel height to motor you can measure the total play on the spur & sector so that you can make up a set of shims that is just a 10th of mm under and swap each set of shims about to space correctly A sort of mixture of your experienced eye but using some measuring tools for the lesser experienced people (that includes me btw coz I'm not a shimming guru that walks on water) but if you get bevel - pinion set right that is where so many people go wrong guessing including me - sometimes I have been lucky or close - other times I have been way out (thinking wtf is all that schreeching coming from ffs) A bit of work but jeeez you see/hear the difference Plus a well shimmed box performs so much better Less friction and heat and more power being transferred Good vid all the same proving how important it is to get bevel to pinion as near perfect as possible

Not if I start shooting myself first

F*CK ME - I stand corrected http://ucap.co.uk/ucap-membership/ so sorry - thought that must be UKARA site but as Jedi said you can still be placed on database plus tbh - when buying a RIF the dealer/retailer just needs to ring site to confirm you are now a regular skirmisher 18+ well my site (though ukara site) was dragging its heels processing my ukara so they kept getting calls from LWA & Pro Airsoft Think in the end they got fed up and got my entry sorted - guy at PA said my site's shop sounded a bit grumpy.... Nope that could be the owner in one of his good moods tbh... Entry onto the ukara database is what I think most sites & retailers refer to as it is an easy way to check plus it kind of keeps the looney politicians that wish to ban our toy guns - sort of happy (though not all the time)

m8 - if you get next to nothing and on a budget some old army surplus stuff on ebay will suffice Sandpitt is a little more than other sites but is more serious side of things Read up Ian's guide to noobism on a budget - not calling ya a noob but contains a goldmine of info for starting or restarting out in your case it's in the sticky section new player guides http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ it contains a lot - no a LOT of sound practical info & wisdom that many including me wish they had read first when starting out you can get by with very little - bit of old surplus, decent eye-pro, half decent boots with ankle support etc.... all the mofo loadout can come when you get near to buying ya first rif by then you may decide on a particular loadout after speaking to others at site and try a few guns you like the look of get ya first game in asap - sooner you start the sooner you can get sorted and blow all ya money

you south east london and serious etc.... consider going along to sandpit dartford rent gun for 3 games in 2 months to obtain your ukara through the site sandpitt don't allow 2-tone or clear aeg's - RIF's only so that site should do you ok obtain ukara - buy RIF or rather first of possible others.... meet new people of all ages, backgrounds etc and shoot them - in a friendly fair playing airsoft way There are also a few mil sim places on MoD sites in Kent one or two players on here go to Also Russell on here does reenactment too - think WW2 Aussie atm with an impressive custom built mofo replica See we got all sorts on here

Thing is you need to chrono it and tbh if she shoots just a smidge over - the best thing is to just correct AoE as that will bring down fps 10 to 15fps nothing else - just AoE, use a couple of neoprene or rubber tap washers as you are still running her stock 2nd tooth on piston removed already - tiny file to reduce 3rd tooth 2 x neoprene washers with some super glue should do it (clean cylinder head first then glue on to space piston back) a slightly reduced piston stroke should give you a drop of 10 to 15fps - plus box or rather piston should love you a little for it ak2m4 has some mofo new xcortech ones in at under £70 I think give him a pm and he could do you a deal sounds a lot but it is something that people should consider if they own more than just the one gun if you suspect ya gun is playing up a quick chrono will prove ya fps has dropped badly or if working on gun will quickly show the fps & rof etc... rather than try to guess stuff If you bought it for say £70 and jack it all in in 12 months, I would reckon you could still get about £50 for it that £20 loss isn't bad as it saves you waiting to find out at site if gun is ok or rather it is too hot and can't use it properly or even at all if you can't bring her down a hairline smidge with hop on You could replace the spring and be exactly the same or higher (doubt it but some springs are a bit under rated fps wise) or pi$$ poor sub 300fps

Welcome to forum / UK age ? location - North - South London presume if 18+ you are gonna get ukara to obtain your own rif experience - airsoft/paintball/ or other stuff like this Anyway.... many on here have a laid back or fun approach to airsoft though there are a few who play more seriously/regular even mil sim games etc.... You don't HAVE to have a team as such, many just turn up and either on their own mostly or with a m8 or two - but in any case you turn up on ya own see a few regulars, banter with players & the one or two laid back marshal etc... Depends on your approach - yes it can be extremely competitive for the more hardened serious player Or it could be a load of blokes young & old running around the woods with toy guns falling ar$e over tit etc... But in general - just a bit of fun leaving our ego's at home and letting off some steam peew peew poww Me - I run a clan of out of shape over the hill saddo's who suck at this and don't really give a toss how many times I get shot to hell Gonna get some patches made up soon: The CRAP Clan.... Crappy Really Aged Players Yeah - we are bad - really bad at this, but wtf we are too old to care Membership is really restricted - I am the only one but we are growing - nearly got another player once but his wife wouldn't let him out no more - mine keeps telling to get out more Soz - silly posting, gis a bit more info and maybe some of the others might be able to point you to a local site to find ya feet a bit more

Gimp masks handcuffs and 5 hookers Can't bloody wait

Ahhhh that would indicate a high fps The DSG HC05 stands for high cycle To be honest sounds like that gun or the batch was destined for US I'd say coz gotta be like a m120 spring in it and a ssg to me. The gearing on STD FH's changed and they seemed to use an 8 tooth bevel so the gearing is like 22:1 nearly and many said it was a bit low rof compared to Top Tech launch model. But it should be pulling spring OK on that gearing.... Could do this n that change spring n gears or short stroke it but a new gun - forget all that and get them to sort it or change it for a FFR 2 3 round burst MOSFET mofo is what I'd recommend. Well I would get one but really trying to keep my new year resolution of not buying more stuff

Good advice though Trigger's discreet and subtle approach is optional (yes I think that was his best discreet & subtle approach tbh) let us know how you get on & the outcome of how this mofo may have come about coz it is rather hot for such a little gun

Ere just a quick thought... Didn't buy this from GunFire ??? They had a G&G shipment in recently and their guns are direct worldwide imports Plus they are usually a bit more pricey on G&G's than UK G&G's I've found Cyma JG plus some others yes GunFire n Taiwangun are places to but from with free downgrade But G&G they always seemed a bit more than what you can get combat machines for in UK But would explain such a hot mofo FH Edit - hmmm according to GF their FH's are 320ish http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152205604-Fire-Hawk-carbine-replica.html Yet quite a few of their other G&G's say 400fps Hmmmm the mystery continues......

Also that is a tiny little less fps drip per 0.05gms than expected... Normally I have found 30 to 40fps drop per 0.05 or 0.20 vs 0.25's but every gun is different Plus long or very short barrels produce odd fps gains or slight loss on short pdw lengths Is it your chrono or some site's chrono And what does same mag in the GC16 30th say ??? Soz just trying to check all possible things first Heck even quirky chrono or dying battery inside it or something. G&G's are "normally" pretty good in UK So kinda wondering how this hot momma came about

2nd one is the HC05 dual sector no semi firehawk and that is around 270fps in Germany to 310 max in UK box even says under 1 joule The muzzle velocity bit is kinda generic copy/paste from most of their guns...... (plus HC05 has 9mm ceramics - crap ceramics in there not 8mm bronzey bushing or bearings) To get a normal FireHawk at 378+ is going some - I wonder where you got it from ??? coz that has gotta a hefty spring in there to push that out on a titchy barrel I believe you but reckon that was an import for possible USA or worldwide sites On the box label there is about 3 or 4 boxes and exact model numbers I'd say you got a mofo m125 spring or something in there destined for yanks or something or they made a major major balls up at factory plus every seal is near as damn it etc etc..... I doubt if it is the HC05 - but put it in semi and see if fires one single shot if it goes full auto on semi it is the dsg hc05 but I think it is a conventional ssg fh for usa Sacarathe though has a slightly slighty hot CM18 from LWA but only a smidge over or TWA would not allow him to play Actually his MP5K is just a hairline over too Lucky so & so - most of my G&G's are 320-330 but speak to retailer or something.

f*ck it - pic says 1,000 words: poxy pic wouldn't copy over so had to upload to imgur crap others pics were a bit too far back and tappet cam could be starting to pull back tappet plate (bit of resistance or risk of damage - ics good design but not completely fool proof) maybe perhaps a tiny tiny bit more backwards but just a smidge to ensure last tooth is a whisker more clear of piston = perfection oh and make something idiot proof... Life then creates a better idiot as you guessed the teeth was starting to reappear so tappet cam was shifting to say 1 or 12 o'clock and as you clipped box back you was feeling the tappet or rather the tappet spring's resistance pulling the tappet backwards Wait until you open your first normal gearbox and springs n gears n $hit shoot EVERYWHERE !!!!!

You need to have the sector's gears at the bottom and the tappet cam/lug at about 2 o'clock (on a normal gearbox) But being an ICS m4 v2 gearbox is split what you should be aiming for is last tooth on sector gear dissappeared so that it has fully released piston - in this state the teeth on sector gear sit at 10 to 4 and cam for tappet is at 3 o'clock That way the tappet cam is nowhere near tappet at all..... Yes as long as no sector gear's teeth are showing you can clip the gearbox back together but if the teeth are just starting to come around again - say sector's teeth at 20 to 2 o'clock then the tappet cam is nearly at 12 o'clock and will be showing a fair bit of resistance so ideally get teeth showing - then you should be able to pull the sector's teeth backwards to rear of box until last tooth disappears This should be at 10 to 4 and as long as no teeth are showing upwards then the 2 piece v2 box will plop back together with no tappet grief uhm - hope this kinda makes sense - yes 1/4 to 3 will be ok too but past that point the tappet is starting to get pulled back This was probably a bit of resistance if you was say 20 to 2 o'clock

you mean this: https://www.justbbguns.co.uk/product/544/RECON-GUNS/448/2-TONE-BB-GUNS/2261/SRC-M4-RIS-RECON-AIRSOFT-GUN I bought that and though it wasn't quite a completely crap gun - the seller deffo is pure utter $hite btw I really saw a big difference when buying a G&G or ICS in the build quality Assuming you get ukara'd - you can ahem wear the 2-tone off a snakeskin vcra gun from airsoftworld quite easily I've been told a Zero One free 2-tone job is coated on there but does wear if you happen to spill by pure accident some Fairy Power Spray (though it don't wear that easy so a few accidents-leave to soak-scrub & repeat etc is required to get off Z1's coating but have done it) SRC - DEFFO NOT WISE Have bought many cheapy guns - many suck loads hence reason most of us push G&G Raider - plenty of rails and a pretty nicely built starter gun ICS are very nice too but their sportsline range isn't as as extensive as the common G&G CM range of guns Yes everybody has them but it is because they are good safe bet starter gun to start out with heck even to keep as a spare backup gun as people's collections grow Higher end G&G's - hmmmm there are other makes to consider but doubt if you could get a better gun for £150 new in UK Factor in shipping & customs from USA - which will happen - buy a new UK G&G is best advice

for a split second I thought it was gonna be another TH's G&G highly rated posting though running a stock gun on 12v pc psu is a fun way to wreck a gun need a long extension lead if gonna go skirmishing though

SMG's might be ok but very few will have any decent range/grouping with a 110/140mm barrel yeah you might get it shooting better with tweaks but not out of box ok for cqb but out in woodland in medium-long range gunfights you will find it won't perform quite as expected 230mm min barrel length imho if going outside I would suggest - eg: short raider or ak74 or g36c etc..... yup somebody will chime in in with a Glock GBB or something..... But in general I'd suggest for a first gun an aeg with 230mm+ barrel upwards rather than smg