Sitting Duck

Big Dragon M160 is one hell of a motor I often use or a shs torque (shs speed on lower stress builds) it is a bit faster than shs torque nearly as quick as a shs speed motor but similar grunt to a high torque mofo Hopefully it might be a picky motor rather than the ascu itself not that I've used any units but think many rate Spectre's over acsu - still seen the odd problem on spectre's

Think I saw you putting this mofo together very carefully on - ahem Z1 cough splutter..... - a lot of high quality in there sir, looks da bollox and I'm sure she performs every bit as good as she looks

It isn't the look of the FireHawk but friggin' noise of the f*cker that makes it a head turner But it gets on ya own nerves in a echo cqb environment Not a bad gun for close cqb The FFR would be nice but ETU let's it down Short Raider might be a good stop gap Or as a good all rounder the CM18 is damn sexy To be honest G&G or ICS starters to mid range Oh for what it's worth, the 30k Krytac is nice but there are better motors out there - might be flogging mine if anyone wants one... Go for a gun YOU like, it is your money As for mods, it is up to you but to me if you want a longer barrel gun, then buy one rather than ruin stubby's with a stfu barrel/suppressor that just looks wrong Oh and please ffs don't get the HC05 DSG Firehawk No semi crap performance for DSG and won't be able to use it for cqb if semi only coz you only got full auto Trust me - do not get one, think most places have stopped selling these models coz they are not ideal guns for cqb Last one I got for £100 coz for cqb it is about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike !!!! (luv BrickTop's dialogue) ps - the guy in the vid is a nob what he did to the FH - fixed stubby M4 stock is really all you need and maybe another flash hider or stubby suppresor if the thing gets on ya nerves... To pi$$ball about like the guy did - ruined it and waste of time/money but that is just my take on it

right - I thought there was a shim or two on the other half of the box now what you need to do is remove cylinder and tappet plate and start to check the shimming.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29767-hd-video-tutorial-bevel-to-pinion-for-aegs-gears-complete-guide-to-perfect-shimming/ I would try to leave the gears as they are in the left side of the box where the gears are sitting at present That way the rough bevel gear height "should" remain roughly intact them extra shims may need to simply go on top of the gears to finish the spacing out of gears.... bolt the box up and check that gears spin freely and slight movement side to side watch video and pay attention.... you shouldn't need to remove the gears and if you do ensure the shims go back as they are or you are gonna make the shimming & refitting harder shimming is very important and hopefully you only need to space out the top of gears and ensure they spin ok you don't shim too tight - aprox 0.5mm side to side movement and smooth running of gears spinning (ya finger in where cylinder window was and flick the gears.....) hopefully the gears can be stacked or shimmed back to roughly what they was like best of luck

Hmmmm - thought they were shims at first glance but unsure if they are washers that belong on the 4 small top bolts of gearbox The empty half of gearbox appears to have "shims" on the 2 lower of the 3 blue circled bushings these go on the spur and sector gears and is "probably" about right-ish for a basic shim job (at first I thought the sector didn't have any shims so the red items must belong on the sector perhaps) BUT - it appears on the other half of gearbox there are shims that belong on top of the 2 upper gears so I'm a bit stumped at the items that look like washers (thicker) than shims (thinner) I'm guessing the 4 top screws might have had washers if they were not countersunk like other longer screws in gearbox if this is a bit confusing I suggest you have a look here: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?64187-A-technical-guide-thread-VERY-picture-heavy (yes it is zero one but a bit of breakdown of what a v2 box looks like and how it is assembled with lots of pics) ps - yes #9 & #10 are STILL labelled incorrectly ffs don't they correct it when it was pointed out ages ago ffs #9 is the SECTOR not the bevel gear #10 is the BEVEL not the sector gear jeeez - sorry for slight inaccuracy, otherwise it shows a good deal of what is inside a v2 gearbox

what is she firing at atm ??? not being funny but if your gun is that katana with 13 teeth sector m100 won't be enough m110 - might be getting you to about 325 perhaps on average if your sector/piston - though piston doesn't need to shortstroked usually but if on average 3 teeth have come off then you are looking at a m115-ish spring to equate to about 375-380 minus 45 (3 x 15fps) = 330/340-ish you don't need to do anything really if your gun is hitting say 320-330 - even with the spring change system - 20 or 30 fps is nothing use 0.25's should help improve accuracy - a 9.6v if using nimah and that is about it could look at motor change at some point and if/when it drops then can look at opening her up for a few basic tweaks but that gun should be fine as it is - it is no cheapy starter gun and tbh you or me for that matter could very easily make it worse So she what she fires at and try to resist the temptation to tweak stuff you don't need to

you do love them L85's don't ya - quality Blitish Gun made in China ??? Good on ya - like to see other guns rather than the M4 Fords of Airsoft prefer to get my ar$e handed to me by something unique rather than that little 12yr old $hit with a JBBG that keeps owning me

NO NO NO NO NO is my gut feeling.... The low joules, the screwed together 2 halves receiver indicates a plastic bespoke v2 box that will shred ok it has peq box - silly launcher n wotnot but tbh - NO NO NO NO NO even for parts.... They had a spartac AK with plastic cover for 100 Euro reduced to 57 Euro last month which f*ck me I was tempted to get coz worth that in bits @ £45 but had to resist even at 57 Euro or £45 !!!! 100 Euro I would say G36c (JG I think over a cyma) AK - cyma 028 or 31 or something - avoid the spartac or cyma 5xx ak's as plastic cover (well you could get it at a push if replacing with cover with ris/sights at some stage) Cyma 515 - plastic receiver but good internals or something like that but receiver is a bit cheap for abusive skirmishing in long term they are the cheapy guns I would say consider if you are a real tight budget There are offers on G3 type guns - ergh uhmm about getting one with a v2 box in there but think it is not much different really to a G36c Which unless you gotta have to have something different - think the 3 options above are perhaps the best cheapo options to consider Shame coz I keep falling in & out of love with G3 SAS folding stock - nah G36 - nah G3 - nah G36.....

In a word...... DON'T you got a nice gun so go easy on it tuning or go faster stripes/neon lights underneath or just general pimping up ya gun inside is NOT EASY !!!! The sound advice is keep it to a rof in the 20's - honestly reason - it will break quicker - fact the mags that work ok very likely likely won't feed at silly higher speeds more speed on higher springs to avoid PE will generate more heat and wear more volts/amp/current or I just use the general term - juice, more juice will melt your trigger contacts As a rough guide to moderate boost.... 7.4v lipo to 9.6v without a mosfet on stock motor you can swap the motor to a shs torque but for trigger contacts keep her to 7.4v or 9.6v absolute max Don't use shs torque with 11.1v lipo - without a mosfet at some stage... I would run the gun for a while trying to get a rof of up to 20rps - that is plenty you won't have any real problem, the gun will last longer and mags will feed ok To anybody thinking of going much faster the gun WILL wear quicker, mags misfeed plus a jammed bb running at higher speeds can cause major failure everything inside the box has to run so damn smoothly and a lot of experience is required to even get close to this (which I have so much to learn) my own recent rebuild I am going to probably drop from 30+ on 7.4v to about 25-26 using a shs torque as it just seems to mesh better with gears (plus hoping the mid 20's will mean it should last a bit longer - but I'm still not 101% happy with it even after spending a lot of time on her) Trust me - as an expert in breaking more guns than I have fixed/bodged - Go very easy and read up a bloody lot You have a nice gun that wasn't a cheap Combat Machine or something - so don't f*ck it all up by trying to take the pi$$ like I have done so many many times

luckily it should be a quick spring change..... ooops - might not have the Spec Arms spring change system I pictured..... (my bad) but it has one anyway it seems: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152200031-Specna-Arms-SA-B02-carbine-replica.html shs m100 or Element m105 is my guess for what it is worth - welcome to forum sir (could of asked Gunfire to downgrade it for you anyway for free but lucky with quick spring change I guess)

SHS Torque or SHS/Rocket Airsoft Torque is a good all rounder see ak2m4.co.uk Think your gun might be short stroked a bit but lacking a mosfet but likely running on about a m110 to m115 atm if on 13 teeth sector: taken from TWG... A mosfet would be a wise upgrade at some point also then run what you like battery wise

uhm - gun is front wired so tbh, you ain't gonna improve upon it I feel without more money/time and possible rear wire or peq box I'm assuming you wanna replace it with a rail/keymod/up front... so your battery option(s) will have to be considered first I feel for a front wired gun - the handguard is pretty good, bit of room/length to get a variety of batteries in there comes with some mini rails don't wobble much at all - some delta ring RIS's and carbine handguards are as loose as f*ck by comparison yeah I like rear wired, but others say front wired guns are balanced better so guess it is what you prefer, but a stock tube battery limits your options if you think of rear wiring it I'd consider using it as it is for the moment, then when it needs a tweak/service/repair... THEN look at options of stripping it down and rebuild & rewire blah blah blah.....

Nothing wrong with them They are designed to serve a purpose and allow adults without defense to test the airsoft water Admit some colours are a little too vivid than others but without 2-tones I think less people would have got into it How many - don't know, but think less would of stumbled across it and took up peew peew to skirmish etc.... More people means more sites, market grows, bigger choice, better pricing etc...... To me, taking a bit of plinking a bit further got me into it and even though the JBBG was a bit pants - it was still good to plink around with Then a clear ICS - wow this is much better - ukara obtained...... My wallet has never looked so bare ever since.....

good player @ cqb site with a B500A1 would still kick my ar$e even with my Krytac from Hef yes good gun helps, but so does knowing your own limits and your gun's limit too (don't engage a sniper with a crap gun or try to take the whole team with a piggy - actually for some people that is their normal play style)

Great Player - kicks ar$e with just about anything Rich Poser - gets his PolarStar ar$e handed to him - goes home lunchtime not a happy bunny - gun must be playing up End of the day cheapo cyma's at £100 or £65 from TWG are very good value BUT for putting my name behind something I still say £123+ G&G as a safer investment - just Krytac at £300+ are a very sound build out of box - but at that price they should be actually - it highlights how other £300 guns are falling short Factor in a less common place guns eg: L85 and others and they will cost more than a £150 gun Still remains though - buy a gun from JBBG etc... - you will regret it is the general rule SRC starters do not beat Cyma or G&G Starters - I should know but a decent player can hold their own with almost any gun - it is player not gun that usually wins the game if you want cheapo guns - it is very risky but I can give you my own brutally honest opinion of some if you have to really know please don't buy the crap I bought when starting out....

Element m105 to shs m110 is my guess as it has 190/200mm barrel (actually go with shs m110 but not guarder as they tend to be a bit hotter than their ratings) current spring can be reduced correct AoE loses aprox 10-15 fps add bearing spring guide to add 15 fps Short Stroke option if 3 metal teeth on piston (1 tooth loses aprox 15fps) would be good to know what she is shooting atm - if just a smidge then AoE....

I think it is perfectly fine the way it all is..... Ireland - no ukara required - quite a bit of Europe don't need checks Australia - no airsoft at all Germany - lower and stricter guidelines US - sod it buy a firearm at Walmart in some states like Texas but Wine has to be bought in liquor store or seperate liquor dept ??? Yup - think UK's not doing too bad I think

What is "normal" ??? I love being weird / odd / unique - lets face it Anything us blokes are into - most of out friends & other half's/women will thing a bit strange Thank f*ck for being that bit weird / odd / unique I wouldn't like to be too normal anyway I like being unique or weird Airsoft - toy gun nerf upgrade outdoor COD, reliving my youth long gone by plus it is just another dumb ar$e hobby to spend money on according to missus - hmmmm I like messing about with stuff - always interested in how stuff works or what have I just broke better that pi$$ing it up down the pub, gambling, or couch potato etc.... Am I going to grow up and act my age - nope being a (skint) big kid is just too much fun

ICS has a weird mofo M4 stock tube mount too

don't run around - less rattle or if you like to sprint around a lot then your next loadout should be this: Olé

repair the E&L box if its w@nked normally the box that comes with gun fits the best or least hassle when you start replacing or mix n matching bits n bobs then a lot more attention to detail is required eg: fire selector plate or mechanism - well on AK's they can get a bit hit n miss to select 101% everytime start popping in other bits and you may find that can get worse - may have to use the E&L selector plate on cyma box or replace with cyma linkage for example if using a cyma box in a E&L AK (might be ok but the AK linkage "can" be picky or a little hit n miss at best of times) There are 2 nozzle lengths for AK's at least The E&L box should be better as I think it uses 8 or 9mm bushings or bearings Cyma - 7mm bushings This doesn't really matter but what with E&L is at the higher or mid-range of AK's so think I'd go with repairing the E&L box first tbh

^ this ^ is what I'm trying to explain to OP honestly it is not as easy or as cheap to build as you may first think

yeah basically - both is the answer mid caps also feed better at silly speeds though capacity means you can't spray and pray too much hi-caps - 1 mag lasts ya ages if you are travelling very light - like gun only - no pouches n not carrying the kitchen sink etc....