Sitting Duck

yeah - don't What I mean is a good number of CO2 pistols are too hot to use at most sites often on a fresh bulb you will be well over 500fps even near 1,000fps on your very first shot - but comes down to around 400fps after half a dozen or so shots but still way over so many people find they can't use them Now there are ways to lower the fps, valve mod, even hammer mod plus you can get a refillable bulb and fill with propane/Green Gas Plus some of the Dan Wesson revolvers can lower the fps with certain shells I think But quite a number of them CO2 mofo's are a bit hot like I said now if you are lucky and do some research you can get some guns that have co2 mags but also a GreenGas mag option too Still - a bit of a pain and many just use GreenGas or propane/coleman gas with a drop of silicone unless you are up north and extreme cold GG guns should be ok a few degrees above freezing though some prefer the plastic lighter mags as opposed to metal that may be more prone to failure in cold weather Other than that Electric - but few get much over 220fps Sorry but there is a catch with most types - but often people prefer GreenGas over co2 pistols

Indeed, even if on full auto in woods You can give the trigger a quick flick to take out somebody but still have the option of returning a burst of fire if his team mates over there start letting rip in your direction. All in moderation.... Double tap or 1 or 2 burst is all you need unless you aim is that $hit. In that case improve your aim or hop not rof Is down to the players themselves to help reduce the bell-end ratio

The whole pain factor varies greatly.... Depends where you get shot for a start Back, face, fingers even the crown jewels Even then it can vary so much also You can drop a solid glass ashtray on ya nutz and it barely hurts, then drop a matchbox or something so light and wriggle in agony. Police have been lifted airbourne almost by thugs yet have given chase and restrained the person. Minutes later collapsing in agony Kidneys are a much more accurate reliable area to strike as it will drop almost anybody if done correctly... What I'm saying is it varies so much from different places and still the same place can be agony or just a slight tap Just pisses me right off when some peeps say it don't hurt Most of the time it don't, but now n then the odd single shot stings like F*CK !!!! On top of that, a high rof is OK if used in moderation Eg not empty a mag in seconds but single shots or small 3-5 round burst when suppressing so teams can move up.... It is all about how people conduct themselves You could have a stock 12rps gun and be a bigger w@nker than a guy with a 30rps gun that just wants controlled quick response with a short burst now n then Then the 12rps hire noob fails to take hits keeps shooting you on auto at close quartets yet will tell his m8's where your team is as he walks to respawn dead zone Not having a go at new comers just used the above to demonstrate a difference in players attitudes Chill, go easy, love your gun's rof/rps/make/colour whatever you want - just remember if you was really that f*cking good you could still kick ar$e with a crappy JBBG But yup sometimes just a single shot can f*cking hurt Yet a 10rnd in the chubby belly means little discomfort

Ian uses them in AK's and yes it is still a bit tight - poxy mp5k's do NOT be tempted to get a twin stick version it will be that bit fatter once you lay the 2 haribo lipo sticks together they do a small 1200mah single stick one but think the 166mm long mofo one linked to is the one many go for just wish they made that battery tube just a smidge bigger just a smidge to say 20mm tube - make life so much easier

get a mosfet in there asap - luckily v3's means the fet gets fitted without having to reopen box like on v2's Lipo's really offer $hitloads more grunt which you will need on 13:1 gearing and the motor will draw as much juice as you can give it so for sake of contacts in the trigger get that fet fitted sooner rather than later http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html is one of many good small fets out there - gate pico or airfet plus others (could make your own but for 1 or 2 guns it really ain't worth it) Lipo link was for HobbyKing EU search around the UK HobbyKing now sells them "airsoft" batteries normally buy from UK or EU HobbyKing as quicker and no chance of import duty be careful very easy to click and end up buying stuff from HongKong so ensure you click UK or EU warehouse apart from shipping costs - nobody should be paying silly money for batteries and nobody should spend £20 for a nimah you will need a new charger a B3 or B6 type but yeah lipo's depending on type/style/format/cells you should easily get stuff under £10 on normal M4's it pays the measure your battery space and use HobbyKing's battery finder Then you can see loads of options If people got a fixed stubby or full stock they can fit really cheap block lipo's in there you should buy a lipo with at least 20c - I'd say 25c tbh if lipo says 25c-50c = 25c is what its real rating is I've been told Turginy, Zippy are good brands of lipo's the one I linked is a popular coz it is a nice stick lipo for AK's as well under the dust cover you do not need a 11.1v lipo - your motor & gears should be hitting 26rps+ once fetted & rewired etc... your spring in a 110mm - 140mm barrel is likely to be about a m110 if hitting 330-350fps so you should not be getting overspin or little go down 11.1v you will hit near 40rps and smash f*ck out of your gearbox with Pre Engagement so unless you are a real nutter speed freak keep it in moderation and coz of extra work involved many keep guns firing into the 20's twenties is plenty as they say yes you can go nutz - but faster guns need a lot more work and simply fail quicker could waffle and repeat $hitloads - do a search on here for one of my war n peace novels on lipo's n warnings but the real answer is drop nimah and go lipo (with mosfet)

It is kinda going backwards in the end not being funny but yes it would work though I'd make sure the cells are same type/capacity and if possible same make would be a right bollock-ache to change n charge but all cells should be charged at same time mp5k I would suggest: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idProduct=84544 change motor to long shs torque fit the mosfet up in handguard with hop unit fit actual mini deans as these still offer less resistance than small tamiya - and are very compact connectors fit the battery ar$e end first with thin alpha eco wire and wires should squeeze in ok with connector near rear of v3 box This is the type of stuff I'm looking to do on my Galaxy mp5k (in bits coz keep looking at other stuff & mods) & the poxy G5M mofo with ris that has to be removed every time to change battery (the ris Galaxy mp5 is a REALLY crap design) I haven't done it myself yet but that is what I'm looking at doing - jeez the mp5k's have crap battery space I know Gun would seriously kick ar$e then and at £5 a battery - why pi$$ball about with nimah's

ultra long barrel is out the window for a start DSG's can only provide enough volume of air for about 275mm (tbh I'd say 250 that is why most dsg's are either ak74 G36c or short M4's) DSG's are really for poops n giggles project - they really ain't used that much in UK I feel we don't have to inflate our ego's or rof as much as some others..... plus I don't wanna be know as that w@nker (I'm known as some w@nker but not THAT w@nker) If you go down the short stroking route I'd say ya barrel max is gonna be 400mm ish tbh keep it at 365mm M4 size that should allow you to SS 4 teeth if most of the above makes little sense - google some tutorials up http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ BUT KNOW THIS - your gun will crap out quicker your mags probably won't feed very well at 30+rps and you will be called a dick if you spray n pray or light people up with overkill Many on here go down the more sensible route on getting into 20's 21rps on stock gears up to say 29rps on 12:1 gears but there is more work to be done with higher speed even high 20's The best players often just use semi only having a slightly faster gun only for trigger response than actual high rof on auto watch a good player at work and see how they often switch to pistol - gas blowback but nigh on most are single shot only as they switch to pistol they glide and really is an awsome sight site to watch from the dead zone it is the PLAYER - not the gun that wins the game I have broke loads taking the pi$$ and learnt a lot - still learning so the last thing I'd advise anybody to do is simply go nutz unless you really like seeing the errors of bad teching and simply just taking the pi$$ too much ease up - tweak a stock gun to 20 to 25 and it will last, your mags should feed ok and you won't look like a w@nker

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/11381-ics-l85a2/ they say his ics auto locks onto targets & shoots on its own think any info you need will be in there

Another ukara vcra war on the horizon......... I think technically you can't remanufacture an IF into a RIF somewhere in the vcra it states that but does not clearly state that even if you have a defense/ukara you are allowed to turn an IF into RIF yeah kind of sounds daft but sure it reads something like that in there pages and pages etc...... so we have various posts/wars on the exact word for wording of the vcra how this will all be policed and implemented remains open for question Plus most sites won't care too much if you posses a RIF or a repainted IF you could have obtained the gun before 2007 or been gifted it even if you are u18 From a Law point of view - you are not allowed to remanufacture but where this may lead to if you have a defense - ukara is only one type of defense blah blah blah if you are a regular skirmisher then you have a sort of defense so you have some sort of reason to possess a RIF - how valid this is remains open for questioning but all the same you would have a reason or defense to be in possesion of a RIF Another factor is if the prosecution could prove that YOU actually remanufactured it or did the 2-tone ahem wear off so to speak..... The easiest answer is cover with tape at your site remove tape when you leave = IF still it - the vcra is not quite so crystal clear in every detail and can be read a different way or interpreted slightly differently I will sate right here and now I myself may have got it so very very wrong and in no way am I saying yes it will be fine It is down to you to determine exactly where you stand on a legal side of things.... I'm no barrister - no way.... The most important thing above all else is to ensure that don't be a dick drawing attention to yourself gun in bag and act responsibly on & off the field - thus drawing little attention to yourself The police tbh - won't really give a toss as long as you ain't a dick and can prove your defense/ukara/skirmish site etc... (most of them won't even know the full vcra and where airsoft fits in anyway) As to spraying the gun - keep the 2-tone parts well away from Fairy Power Spray as this can remove or erode the paint away (so I am lead to think) If after all this we have have another ukara/vcra bloodbath - just remember, YOU started it

it is a good idea that G&P implement.... until you want to swap out a m120 motor for something better on v3's with motor cage I could solder if I wanted 101% contact but tbh on v3's with cage/frame the connectors are straight so don't break so much On v2's with pistol grip cramming it all in there it becomes an issue Anyway - there are a number of options available its your gun - use what you feel best

is balance board connected correctly ?? other than that watch this vid - ALL OF IT !!! (OK first 1:30 mins the bloke is dicking about a bit but watch the rest for sure) and CAREFULLY start charging to get it above the low voltage mark then it should attempt to work ok note your charger seems to be similar to B6 type but this is best I can offer - be careful and charge in a safe place on worktop in garage or deffo not on floor/bed etc.... hope this works - be careful I know there is a way to force charge lipo's for when some chargers/lipo's only take 90% charge and people top up to near the max 4.2v per cell BUT that is for people who know what they are doing What your lipo's have is a charge below its limit and in vid it will force some juice into them Then it should no longer get error and hopefully charge up normally on lipo program Other than than it is gonna be a case of getting dean-s.tamiya so you can use yours (or fit deans to yours but only if you can solder and cut+solder ONE WIRE AT A TIME)

What charger and have you used this charger/battery before ???

All springs will lose a bit over time..... chrono's will vary a smidge - some more than others - but usually xcortech's are pretty much accurate as possible Though at TWA it was just on borders of 350 - 352 now it could be starting to break in now - no offense but I probably did more shots in morning than you did all day Mall is max 340 I think.... what you could do is leave gun precocked pop rear pin, slide top receiver forward on CM18 you should see the blue cylinder with a hole/port in it - one left/right side pull trigger and watch for piston going back past the port leave it in this precocked state overnight re-test Saturday - bet it would of dropped a bit more to be absolute honest if somebody's gun was a smidge smidge over on the Mall's chrono I ain't gonna worry about 5fps it is people shooting like dicks overkill etc... that pi$$ me off more than 5fps what is ya mp5 shooting coz that was on borders of the Mall you said so compare the two guns and see if they are similar or the chrono you got might be say 5% or so out... test ya mp5 first and see what ya get before doing owt if it ain't broke - give it to me I'll f*ck it up for sure

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100PCS-2-8mm-Uninsulated-Female-Right-Angle-Crimp-Spade-Terminal-Connectors-Hot-/151312487428 OR Shape the connectors - but re-enforce them with blob of solder at the bends NOTE - hold connector up/wires down whilst doing this as if excess solder runs into spade connector itself - ya f*cked to get it on later so any excess solder will run back - what ya doing it strengthening the elbow joint also giving it more conductive connection too as had these weakened connectors blow on me like a lame bladed fuse Only time I have ever soldered direct to motor was on a v3 with AK motor frame at least I can easily remove that - but a v2 M4 - pain in the ar$e if soldered either of those two ideas above should get you good connection and little resistance not much behind the die hard solder everything for least resistance and max response mofo's

Think that might have been most of your team it's fine - just their way of saying - We are right behind ya - OUCH

From the sounds of it, you got a SR25 G&G front end on a normal M4 So it looks DMR but without the bespoke hop nozzle bollox So you got easy to replace/upgrade basis with a "My M4 is bigger than yours" looks Sounds a good price to me

Damn it - read the title and thought it was a post about ovens.... Gas is what pro's use Electric - some of the newer ones have fan assist as for airsoft - aeg rifle for most people gas pistol (blowback nigh on most use/have)

Never used them or Gunfire no wait - oh those sods who made me buy more n more n more n more yes theyr'e sound 101% as long as you got ukara once you got that - kiss your wallet goodbye first order might take one or two days extra whilst they run a paypal check (sure both my first orders at TWG & GF were a bit slow but after the "few" other orders flew through) Rate TWG slightly faster shipping than GF - not much but Monday orders usually arrive by Friday from TWG Gunfire - hmm little hit n miss if they arrive Friday or following Monday Gunfire have bigger selection and when they have sale on prices go really mental - gimme gimme gimme But often TWG do stuff a bit cheaper than GF but limited range of spares I live at both websites - but keeping to my new years resolution of not buying any more guns - just spares now n then Don't care if we come out of EU now - got enough crap to last me for yonks

inside the hop is a little bit of plastic - the nub don't loose that ffs it goes in the arm and presses down on bucking... uhmm ergh I didn't quite mean strip down the hop completely I mean see if looks shagged but there is no spring on the hop unit pushing it back to box like I said M4 type - short version of your hop: see the spring - well you will need more than just one little o-ring that little o-ring is more like a stabilising o-ring or one used to steady it in a tube barrels are shipped in you have the brass collar used to steady the barrel at hop unit end but that o-ring I'd say is not gonna do much to push hop unit backwards not that the spring is that brilliant - see if you can find a similar spring maybe in a clicky ball point pen or something or add more o-rings whilst assembling bucking/hop a bit of ptfe wrapped around bucking - but very thinly done you can't wrap metres round bucking or she won't go in the hop but helps to stop leaks around bucking/barrel in hop google this mod and also the cylinder head mod - ptfe is very good for stopping leaks if done with care Also I did say make a fresh post to help attract other clever mofo's (mofo = motherf*cker but used in lighthearted terms) a good posting place would be: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/27-electric-guns/

agreed - length doesn't always mean more (I keep telling Mrs Duck that one - but she still laughs at my excuses) Sometimes you can feel a strong short spring when closing up box but often that means only a rough rough guide reason I say that is one time I was fitting a m105 and thought wtf this is a bit beefy.... turns out I grabbed a m115 and wondered why I was shooting 380fps - ahhh the m105 still inits packet but missing m115 spring enlightened me to one of my many many foolish mistakes

F*ck me that is $hit !!! you got air pi$$ing out eveywhere on that one if it was some lame ar$e spring you'd be going 10 to the dozen even with a lame G&G motor now the GR25 uses or should a long metal mofo hop unit and a mega long mofo nozzle too How old is the gun and if you bought new ?? just saying speak to retailer if quite new if old then see if still has the spring on hop unit pushing it back to gearbox to seal it (they can come adrift or just dissappear) separate the 2 halves of gun and look at hop unit/barrel - check spring is there on the nipple/lug pushing it back to box to seal Also check nozzle condition - plastic mofo length - could be chipped or cracked it's a long bastid like the friggin' hop unit - normal v2 box but some bitch decided to use bespoke hop/nozzle ffs an Aug type nozzle "might" fit as they are quite long but this is still a silly guess at best (replacement nozzles can be sourced from Z1 or LWA + others) check whilst you got the 2 halves separated - see if bucking looks ok though it may look ok but could be damaged/torn/worn - see if the bulge from the nub pressing down is working at least you could have a torn bucking or probably a couple of issues so see if owt looks iffy then try to cycle gun - leaving nozzle fully released - max nozzle showing (this may have to be half cocked or nearly ready to fire coz moment piston fires by the time cut off lever kicks in the nozzle is starting to retract again to load a bb) anyway try and get nozzle as far forward as possible right up against the front of gearbox now place the hop against the box and you should feel the nozzle sealing - should feel a bit of resistance and suppose you could blow down barrel with hop pressed against box - should seal pulling barrel/hop a smidge away - and I mean a smidge - you should have about 1mm before you lose seal I'm trying to give you some ideas where to look for such a big leak before you go nutz and rip box open - a fair bit of loss is likely to be hop related could be also inside box but reckon 75% is going to be outside the box (though cracked nozzle - cracked piston or damaged o-ring is going to need opening of gearbox) the piston head on G&G's is crap imho but not that bad to lose that much compression especially on a long barrel where you would expect if anything a bit of creep or slightly higher fps than shorter barrel guns conduct numerous tests and examinations on the hop sealing against box - it could be badly aligned causing nozzle to seal off centre often the box can tip backwards and nozzle rides high, rubbing on hop at 12 o'clock - but usually you would see some tell tale signs marks on nozzle or bits of black where nozzle was rubbing..... look at gearbox sitting in receiver - if pulled backwards & upwards you can begin to see the lines may not be true to each other also where the trigger is underneath a gap appears in front of trigger - another indicator the box was gone backwards and up at front How does the box sound - trying see if something has broke inside box like piston/spring even but still think most is going to nozzle/hop area related let us know any history of this gun - anybody ripped her open before and bodged it up how old is it etc.... and if possible take some pictures - I'm not an expert on G&G 25's - don't own one but maybe others might have had one and can shed some light on their common faults a bit do some basic checks like see how the hop seals against box etc.... yes some ptfe will help to stop or reduce some leaks but only if they need them and it is easier if you know where the main fault(s) might be don't think it is a blowback box - the G&G pbb boxes can crack a bit easier than the normal non blowback boxes but you will see quite quickly if box is cracked at front.... My money is on the nozzle & hop not meeting that they are nigh on divorced let alone seperated the spring can be missing - but some small o-rings infront of hop can help push the hop back to box and seal properly I am not a guru on these long nozzle long hop and long cylinder head mofo's so I am not the best person to advise - not gonna fill ya with bull$hit in an area I know f*ck all about (shut up the rest of ya) What I do suggest is you run some tests and examinations yourself post some pictures up in a new thread so the experienced GR25 chaps out there can concentrate on helping you further a quick searchy brings up pi$$ poor seals could be inside the box on the weird long mofo cylinder head http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?256875-Urgent-G-amp-G-GR25-DMR-help but check that hop unit seal first - then move onto testing other areas like inside box afterwards do some checks - post some pics I'm sure it is a daft $hit seal causing this drop

http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html if you got ukara then you can get good cheap G36c & AK's at TaiwanGun & Gunfire G&G's are best bought in UK as they are no cheaper elsewhere really plus UK retailer if owt goes wrong most guns can be upgraded if you wish and go as easy or as nutz as you like the GC16 30th is metal and is a very worthy consideration but most of the G&G guns around £150 are pretty decent it is all down to what looks you prefer they are all the same inside - just not easy picking just one (so true my bank balance says)

On a stock weak ferrite motor, to pull heavier springs over the m100 to m110 normal rating you may/will need torque gears with ratios above the normal 18:1 gears used in most stock guns otherwise weak ferrite motors may struggle on m120+ springs Note not all ferrite motors are that weak but they do not have the raw grunt/speed/response that neodym motors have On higher torque gears your trigger response will be lowered and do not even consider 32:1 gears crap at all - way too lame and will need a half tooth rack on piston it just ain't worth the hassle.... In fact even the helical cut 200:100 & 300:1 gear sets are not worth it Lozart and some others tried to use them - one of them is about a 23:1 set and think the other is about 27:1 but can't remember which is which - to be honest unless you are gonna try and pull something really daft eg: 600 fps upwards with a m180 spring or something you will be fine on stock gears but use a high torque neodym motor Most DMR people will be sticking with m130 to m140 springs so 18:1 gears will be fine though cheap nasty cheapo stock gears should be replaced if going nutz Higher speed gears help in increasing rate of fire & response but not quite as much as you might expect a 12:1 gear set should offer a 50% increase in rof but in reality often this is say 45% at best as the motor is having to work a little harder especially at from standstill I think your G&G 25 uses just a conventional v2 gearbox - not an extended v2 or v2.5 but don't quote me 101% - sure the G&G m14's use std piston/cylinder and think the sr25 use normal cylinder/piston lengths too if this is correct do not be tempted to get a great bit long STFU barrel longest you can go is around 450/469mm - ak size length but tbh numerous DMR's stay at 400mm or so long barrels mean little over this length - most stuff is all down to bucking n hop n a good clean barrel all set up very well What you need to decide is if you will use this as a DMR @ 425-450fps locked to semi or AEG @ 349.999fps and keep full auto Now according to G&G it comes as a 510mm barrel on the GR25 Sniper or a slightly shorter 465mm on the SPR version Shorter barrel would probably be best if turning into DMR as you have a normal V2 box yes you could just scrape by on volume on a 510mm barrel but if trying to shoot heavier 30gms then I would be looking at a bore up kit for piston cylinder and possibly only half correct AoE to try and ensure a decent amount of air volume is created for the mofo 510mm barrel Some say it will be ok - but it is pushing it on that longer barrel on a normal v2 gearbox Your accuracy comes from bucking/hop/barrel - roughly in that order unless something is badly out of whack Your fps, rof & efficiency & reliabilty comes from the gearbox (and a decent motor to pull heavier springs) plus good wiring, mosfet, lipo on deans etc...... The list is quite long and a classic example of where do start/stop You need to decide what type of gun you want improve the bucking area - see what you gun is shooting at fps wise increase spring and service gun with a few minor tweaks to improve seals and after that then go from there..... Not everybody likes the DMR role of hanging back, 30m single shot, doing less, crawling around but providing good overwatch & support can make or break a game but not as easy as many think, often many choose to forget this for a game of soldiers and go back to getting stuck in If you get your gun shooting well out to 50 or 60m as an aeg - that is pretty bloody good and can kick ar$e in most situations However getting accuracy is not quite as easy as slapping in a madbull barrel n crap get your gun @ 349.99 fps with good bucking/barrel and see how you go gearing if you wish 16:1 is a minor improvement that std guns will pull no problem when you want to go faster there is a bit more homework to be done as going above 20rps will lead to over running or double cycle if say above 25rps on m100 setups So I say to anybody decide on what you want, how far you want to go and do it stages at first very easy to screw it all up - done this & still doing this so if you want it to work & last then go steady and see each improvement bit by bit rather than replace everything - make it go like f*ck and wonder why she smashed herself to bits so quickly bucking - maybe flat hop, clean barrel or replace with a decent barrel if yours is crap but try just cleaning the stock barrel first and fix any leaks - see how she shoots - then decide on next stage Also try experimenting with different bb's - at least 0.25's up to 0.30's on 350fps aeg's (there are some inbetween weights like 0.23 & 0.28 but usually many use .25's at least for woodland) note some makes are great and some are crap - plus some guns hate some makes but other guns love them decent ammo helps but what weight & make - you will have to have a go yourself and see what works/doesn't Jeez - am I on a bollox roll today now I understand why my keyboards break quicker than my guns soz - got carried away - again