Samurai

Siting Duck is right. That piston didn't return in time. Maybe it didn't move free enough, or the o ring had a bit of resistance moving the other way, or it's simply too heavy with bearing inside, etc. Short stroking a piston takes away a lot of fps. The ports' size on the cylinder doesn't affect the compression. Well, bigger ports let the compression build up quicker, but that's already nominal on the normal ports too.

There are a lot of factors affeting the fps. Even with perfect airseal. If there is bearing on the spring guide or not, bearing or weight on the piston head or not, etc. You can get very different fps from the same spring in different guns. Especially with a used and possibly up/downgraded weapon. The only thing you can do is to try different ones. :/

Only use the spring tension release at the end of the day. M100 or M110 should get around that fps depending how good the airseal is. Or cut about 2 coils off the current spring.

If you have any specific question I might be able to help you. I did some arduino coding.

I'm not sure about the M4 flash hider but on some other, similar flash hiders it's a wire cutter for barbed wire. It keeps the wire in position to shoot it.

Increasing the barrel length is also only for the looks.

Customs check it. I had my own gear "imported" and the package has been opened, and the letter with my ukara number on it was missing when it got here.

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/892-holy-grail-building-your-dmr-aeg.html

A longer barrel won't bring you accuracy. What BBs do you use? Use 0.28g high quality BBs, that's where you get the accuracy, if the gun is OK otherwise. If you don't measure somehow how your gun shoots you won't know if it shoots fine or not. If the only measurement is that you get shot more than you shoot others that's not the gun. That's your skills and the gun. Between rounds find a suitable target, shoot it with your gun (using proper BBs), then borrow the guns of others and shoot the same target a few times. This way you can see if it's the gun indeed.

This plate has the big adjusting screw, it doesn't need that intermediate part.

I usually get seriously wounded, then medevac'd and patched up, so I have no problem telling where the enemy is after regen. I'm not a character, I don't like the LARP element of airsoft.

If they are speaking then they are in game, so shoot them until they are dead and behaving properly.

IMO get a T-1 with a removable raiser. You can use that on anything.

What did it came with? I've seen a similar front sight adjusting tool.

Woot. Instructions complete with X-ray vision and amazing paint skilllz.

There should be a screw in that hole on your last photo. Pulling that back, releases the bipod. http://www.khmountain.com/airsoft/images/OY021.jpg

The motorola 2.5mm jack is different to the normal 2.5mm jack. If there are adapters for it, make sure you get the one for motorola.

Or get a red dot that is for small caliber rifles. The used ones aren't expensive and way better than the airsoft ones.

Don't put floss or anything under the O ring of the piston head. You can put it under the o ring of the cylinder head if it is too loose.

You can't really test it that way. You can have good airseal if you can't push the piston in, but you can have good airseal if there is not much resistance too. It still can seal on the high speed it normally moves. There are also few cases where you have good airseal with this manual way, but "too good" on high speed. There can be too much space between the piston head and the cylinder and on high speed the O ring is pushed so much into it, that it slows down the piston. Oh, how I hated that gun until I found that this is the problem. So usually if you have good airseal manually, it will be good in normal use, but not always. Try different O rings or piston heads or cylinders. And always use a tiny amount of light grease like silicone in the cylinder.

If they sat collecting dust then the battery is most likely dead, or nearly dead now. Get a 7.4 lipo and a charger for it. Imax B6AC or B3 from ebay.

That's an A&K. I would choose that over a plastic G&G.

Teddies and toenails distract me.

Galaxy is the cheapest one but good value for the money. Only they make that, it's not the same as JG. JG has metal body too. The current cymas are awesome, but heavy as a brick - of course, they are metal. TM is very good but expensive and full plastic. IMO they don't worth that price. The old Cyma 027 are plastic, pretty good, light and well worth the price, but those are mp5, not mp5k. I don't know if G&G, ICS or other brands make mp5k or not, I never had those. So if you need light weight, and it's for CQB or secondary, get a galaxy one IMO. Clean, reshim, regrease it, and put a new hopup rubber in. Put a deans connector on it and use 7.4 Lipo. Don't change anything else. The motor is weak, but fine with the factory spring, the bushings are plastic but they are fine, metal bushings are not needed here. For a primary gun I would not use anything without a stock.

If you do CQB or night games, then torch too. If slings count here then a good 2 point, adjustable sling is very useful.