Samurai

They are cheaper. The problem is when there is a problem. All in all, if everything is fine then it's cheaper, but if there is something wrong, it is more expensive than UK retailers. So in the long run, it's about the same price. Ordering from the EU on the other hand... that's just cheaper.

No need to r-hop. It's very hard to do it right and when you do get it right, there is no real difference to a good normal hopup rubber. Most normal rubbers can lift 0.30 in an average aeg.

Don't go any further on that path. You won't find skirmishable gun below £100. Anything cheaper looks ok, but is actually crap. A good choice was to ask the people here because they do know what they are talking about when it comes to airsoft and will advise you to not to spend your money on unusable things. Now just listen to them. Airsoft guns shoot 6mm plastic BBs.

Yes. Blue streak is a good site and they have recently upgraded their shop too.

I don't know if it's legal or if it is then is it allowed to use in a game. I have thought about it, as I'm designing things for 3d printing and couldn't reason £80 for a grenade. Impact version is easier to make but timed is not that hard either if you have lathe. It's just the timing precision that's not easy to do. I don't really like the impact bfg with that weight pushing the pin. It doesn't go off on soft ground. The tornado's impact is much more reliable I think but way too complicated to set it. The timed ones all work on the same principle: there is a piston that has a spring in it and it moves in a cylinder that only has a tiny hole to allow air in or gas out. This way the piston moves slowly when the pin releases it, and when it reaches the end of the cylinder, and slams into the primer or just allows the rest of the gas escape instantly. The problem here is that timing depends on the lubrication of the piston, the temperature, the dirt, etc. Custom mechanic timer would be too complicated to make. Custom electric timer takes up lot of space with the batteries and is easily damaged.

http://www.airsoftmap.net/Skirmish/

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/

Here are the maths: http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/07-b-06.htm Heavier BBs fly further, get there faster and are more accurate. Also they go through bushes easier and people tend to feel the hits better.

Not really. If your main gun is cqb compatible, then you probably won't use the secondary.

Looks fine to me too. What's that wire though?

Try the cyma then. It's the real sword's copy and not that bad. The numerous VSS Vintorez or AS Val replicas can also be good dmrs.

You know how these work. Any Marui compatible should work but there might be slight differences.

M9 lips do work. If it's indeed the spring then any spring that fits will work.

I know a guy who uses 0.40 in his GHK AK. I use bio 0.28 in anything below 350 fps. Same consistency as the normal 0.30 of the same brand. If they would make 0.30 bio, I would use that.

A&K or Cyma M24 are the best value rifles today IMO.

Don't reinvent the wheel. Even airsoft mechanics with tremendous experience don't make inner barrels. Those should be very straight lengthwise. If you turn it and work on it that way, it can be precise in diameter but it still can be wavy. There is a lapping tool someone makes that polishes the barrel lengthwise, but it doesn't make much difference. The high end inner barrels are very good and I don't think they can be improved in a workshop. Also bear in mind that inner barrels don't contribute much to the accuracy. Even if you have a normal chinese gun, and change only the inner barrel, there won't be much improvement. If the original wasn't faulty (scratches or bent) then the difference is not noticeable. Precision barrels are one of the worst price/value upgrades. When you get the gun, check the inner barrel if it's straight, and polish it maybe.

M14 is very front heavy. Famas is way too old. Don't go bullpup because of the barrel length, so you have much more choices. AK is not an M4 and is a good choice. You can go full tactical or oldschool too.

You don't need long barrel for accuracy.

Not all v3s use short motors, but most of them and this one do. Sigs for example use medium motors.

Everything is fine. That sound is because your bevel gear has 4 teeth that the anti reversal latch can catch into and when it starts to reverse, it can move a bit until it catches. If you want to get rid of it, there are bevel gears with 6 or more of those teeth.

As far as I know it's not the player who is insured. The site is insured. If you get injured you still won't get anything. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I wouldn't trust boots though. However there are many ways do disinfect them on google.

No. Rubbing alcohol / isopropyl to clean the barrel. Silicone grease (not oil) to lube the cylinder. Some thick lithium grease for the gears. Soapy water to clean the rubber when they are out of the gun. Teflon based spray or dry silicone for GBB internals.

Nope. It would be too embarrassing to all the others. JK

Does it matter? Since you already bought them. The beta is a bit short for proper woodland accuracy. Apart from that, it's ok.