Russe11

One of the simplest sets of props I have seen is wooden disks for mines and a broom handle with a larger wooden disk for a mine detector. It is usually used such that you have 2 designated engineers who are the only ones allowed to enter a minefield and they have to hold the mine detector over each mine for a certain number of seconds to clear the minefield. This presents a challenge as the engineers are stuck out front in the open and thus require lots of covering fire.

Best whisky I ever had was Glenfarclas 105. At the time it was the strongest Scotch you could get so when I found a pub that had it, I just had to try it. I have only really ever had Scottish whisky with one exception, Royal Canadian, which I must say I liked a lot. These days though I hardly ever drink spirits of any kind. As for what to drink with a cigar if you're teetotal, strong coffee should do the job. I don't know if Waitrose still have their cuban coffee as I no longer live near to a Waitrose, but that should do the job

If you want to carry the kitchen sink, you probably want a tactical vest rather than a chest rig. That way you will have molle space on your back for things like hydration pouches and radio pouches. It sounds like your games are more milsim like if you need to carry that much? Why not get a small backpack with space for a hydration pouch, that will satisfy all your carrying needs and you can drop it off somewhere safe when you need more agility? I believe that NZ only permits semi auto guns, so you could get by with some of the mags in a backpack as long as you remember to swap out mags to your rig when you have the time.

Even better if it had the more solid looking stock. 1st rule of airsoft: Never reduce the list of stuff you want to get http://www.evike.com/products/47790/ There is also this stock by WE which is another different look. It may be more restricting on battery space as you won't fit a battery in the front anymore. http://www.evike.com/products/44560/ Then you need the Handguard: http://www.evike.com/products/30585/ And then a suppressor. Not sure whether you want left or right handed thread, but you will probably want to check how it fits inside the handguard as well, so that might be best bought on a trip to a local store. There may be cheaper places to get the stuff, evike is in the US and I just used them as an example as that was the place I found that WE stock. Actually you would want a longer handguard such as http://www.evike.com/products/28870/ so the barrel ends partway along the handguard now I think about it.

If you look on taiwangun.com there are lots of different G36's with different looks. This will give you an idea of what you can do with a G36. I personally like the look of the ones with the longer railed fore-grip and suppressor that is partially inside the fore-grip. I would add a pic to show what I mean but am at work and this computer won't allow me.

The only reason to use a magwell converter is if you have an M4 as well and want to save on mags. Take it to a site and see how it chrono's. If it is in the 300-350 range and it manages to hit things at a reasonable range, then you're good to go. A mosfet can be a good idea with LiPo Batteries as the trigger contacts will last longer and some mosfets will prevent you using the battery up completely which is a bad thing with LiPo's.

5 meters of 4mm round leather cord in natural colour. This should make 2 pairs of boot laces. Dubbin for my boots. A 3ft by 2 ft Red ensign flag. Respawn points for a squad in ww2 airsoft are usually a flag in a backpack, you set the bag down and deploy the flag. Usually the flag is Stars and Stripes for the americans or the Union Flag for the Brits. The red ensign would be the correct flag for commonwealth troops. Olive green Dylon dye. I plan to make my Aussie jacket a closer colour match to pictures I have seen of the real thing (I may also do a pair of trousers to match).

Would it not be easier to use a waterproofing treatment, something like Fabsil?

I would suggest that unless you have a DMR or sniper, magnified sights are pointless. You are just limiting your field of view. Red dot sights are good for CQB but anywhere else, ironsights are the best bet (subject to how good they are on your gun).

As said previously the law is very unclear on what is actually a defence but it is clear on when you need one. You need a defence (such as is provided by UKARA) to import or manufacture a RIF, you need to establish that the buyer has a defence in order to sell a RIF. You have therefore broken no rules by buying a RIF and there are no laws saying that you cannot own it. From here on in it's common sense, don't wave it around and keep it hidden so that no-one reports that you have a gun in university accommodation.

Have a section to showcase the stuff you can get hold of on request. You cannot possibly hold stock of every possible gun, but have some way for people to ask about a particular gun they want to get hold of and get back to them with a price and how long it will take asap.

Why the motor?

Back when I used a tactical vest, I took the foam padding out after an embarrassing incident where I was tapped on the shoulder by a guy who explained he had been shooting me in the back for a while. Foam will protect you from hits, but it also makes it hard to feel the hits.

Enter here: https://promosimple.com/ps/616b

Baggy clothing ftw. Best protection ever would have to be WW2 British Battledress with Denison smock. When I get shot, I can usually only feel the movement in the cloth and hear the hit. I did however get shot in the ear on Saturday, that hurts and it bled a little. If you look at these trousers, there is so much loose fabric that bb's lose all their energy before they can hit flesh. Most modern tactical clothing is more fitted and therefore provides less protection. Best protection for the upper body is some sort of smock, the baggier the better.

Getting hit in certain areas hurts. None of these areas are the chest or back. Neck, Ears, face, head and hands are where it hurts. In terms of protection a helmet is more worthwhile than a vest as although a hat is usually enough protection from bb's, it doesn't prevent you smacking your head on branches, low beams etc.

I learned recently that Godfrey from Dad's army was actually a bit of a hero. He was badly injured with bayonet wounds to his left arm and groin, shrapel wounds to the legs and head injuries while serving on the Somme. This left him with a left hand he could not use and prone to blackouts. He was discharged on medical grounds from the army in 1916. In 1939 he enlisted again and went out with BEF as a conducting officer showing newspaper reporters around during the phoney war. He returned to England on the last destroyer to leave Boulogne. On his return he was discharged again due to medical reasons. Then he joined the Home Guard reaching the rank of Major.

To be honest, a vest is not necessary for protection. Baggy clothing will stop bb's just as well. The places that bb's will do damage are the face, ears, neck and hands. Do a search on amazon for childs tactical vest, it will bring up several options.

Try turning the brightness up on the red dot and then try it at different distances from your eye. I actually find it easier to use a red dot on my crap eye as that way the dark of the sight body is replaced by the image from my good eye but the bright dot stays superimposed on what my good eye sees. Using the same sight with my good eye, I see the sight body and my field of view is restricted slightly.

I am left eye dominant but right handed. I find that it works quite well to have both eyes open. The eye dominance cancels out my view of the actual sight but the bright dot is still visible. The red dot sight needs to be quite close to my eye for this effect to work though.

True, if the OP likes his vest and hicaps then there is nothing wrong with that. In another thread he does however mention that he has problems carrying spare bb's. If you add a sidearm into the equation, then theres a holster and pistol mags to carry. Reconsidering your load carrying, doesn't have to mean throwing what you have out. It may be that adding a molle belt or drop leg panel might work. Maybe a small backpack? Something small that can hold a camelback, spare bb's etc. Leave it in the safe zone for shorter games, carry it with you for longer games. My experience with ww2 airsoft is a bit different, but I carry a small backpack at most games and tend to leave it at the respawn point a lot of the time. When I get shot, I can then reload at the respawn, grab a drink and a snack etc.