Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Might just be the placebo effect but holy fuck this little thing is good. Noticably better and consistant hop. Getting much flatter trajectory. http://imgur.com/MzvM6dZ Hop up is stock with antiflex plate mod and pdi-w hold. 15 euro shipped,purchased direct from AirsoftPro.cz. shipping took about 10 business days to ireland. Upgrades like this are always nice. Good to get you stoked for the next outing.

Comms upgrade for the big game in August )) Baofeng UV82 and UV-5R 2000UAH / 58 British Pesos from a local distributor,QC'd and pre programmed. Not too bad I hope.

RIP KLMK Onesie 2012-2016 The trouser part was torn to shit and too small for me. Had to do a good amount of stitching at the bum flap and the torn back pocket. Also added velcro instead of using the shitty buttons. Done this ages ago but just dug it out of the closet.

Doing my test mid-January,but since my provisional is still valid that gives plenty of excuse to be chauffeur for ma. Driving a 1998 Volkswagen Sharan MPV. Old school diesel,400,000km on the clock. Autotragic which is a shame since the engine has a fair bit of go. Plenty of room for airsoft kit and mountain bikes ))) If I have to get a first car I'd deffo like a small panel van,Like a VW caddy or something. Insurance is cheaper and I need space. I also refuse to be forced to drive a small french death trap. My brother's first car was a standard Clio and it was terrifying to be in. And I've driven/been in Ladas and a fucking Zaporozhets! http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--HyBBNjA6--/18s06l4wjb71ajpg.jpg

Yep,had the idea to do it from the asf but never bothered since my mags always dropped out nicely. Now they don't due to wear I guess. If I had the time,patience and a non blunt drill bit,I would deffo recommend drilling and looping paracord. I had to melt the nylon lace ends to a 'plastic' form,then lightly sand the mag indent to actually bond it properly because otherwise it came off with a little bit of force.

Some nylon shoelace for like 50c. Made some mag pulls because I found myself throwing my gloves off to reload too often. Used glue because drilling volatile plastic without a bench drill sounds like an awful idea to me. https://imgur.com/ILL0gDF

Swedish M90 is a killer in the Summer. Italian Vegetato is also extremely effective bar the browner winter months. If you want something nobody else has,and have deep pockets,Check out Prof1Group's 'Varan' (Lizard) Camo. http://p1gtac.com/catalog/verhnyaya_odezhda_5_?color-varan-varan-camo&min=0&max=6815&orderby=1

I dabbled in this mod quite a bit after digging up an old airsoftsociety thread I personally prefer using epoxy to shape the new nub as I find the pencil eraser is inefficient and can cause curving issues at long range I found it jammed up the whole gun when applying too much hop. with epoxy or some similar filling you can file it to shape similar to a Dangerwerx arm,the parabola is way better(in my experience) Of course,the inefficiency problems using a square eraser nub are only with standard buckings,a W-hold in my case,with R-hop or G-hop where pressure is applied differently the M-nub is better I've been told. Maybe I have been doing something wrong using a flat eraser bit or maybe it's because of the way the W-hold works. Every bit of performance is worthwhile and if yours works then no bother at all.

I think it would be a good idea to have a VSR-10 master thread/sticky on this forum section,fair amount of sniper posts coming up nowadays.

Welcome to Irish sniping I've talked with a couple of lads to reddit to update myself on what's best and it seems not much has changed. What I run is quite a budget build with a lot of DIY stuff but it can all be replaced with shelf parts. First thing's first,you will pretty much have to play at AEG ranges so be stealthy or quick . Small 3x or 4x optic is good,no point in a massive 3-9x40 like I run. Adding inertia is a good idea,as long as the gun is balanced. PDi-W hold is probably the better bucking for 1J VSR builds. I've been told the Maple leaf has the best sealing quality but is rubbish on it's own. The Laylax buckings have had spotty QC,needing material removal but are still good,though,generally people seem to like the 'split' buckings. I run .28s and .30s,the latter being the max weight for the W hold in my experience. If you want to keep the Stock chamber,you will have to do some work to the adjuster mech as it bends and causes uneven hop pressure. Very trial and error job. Consists of making thin metal spacers and sticking them around the adjuster and arm to increase rigidity. taken ages to get mine right and there's still a tiny bit of curve. Also you will need to invest in a dangerwerx Type B arm or the airsoftpro one to get the best out of the stock chamber. Right now the Action army hop chamber is very popular. If you want absolute accuracy I recommend this. Pdi chamber is a bitch to adjust and the laylax one is expensive. Good barrel always helps. PDi are the best option for Bolt actions. 6.05 bore Steel ones are good. Barrel spacers of course help,you can make them out of masking tape,no different to bought ones. An extreme mod some american lad once did is pouring wax down his outer barrel to seal in the inner. On the plus side,you can save some money since you can stick with the stock trigger mech. I'd replace the piston with one that has a steel catch like the AA or laylax one. SHS or PPS sear set is my choice. I'd chose the SHS piston sear as it's made of softer steel and is the cheapest and easiest wear part to replace. Finally,goes without saying,standard sealing jobs are an absolute must. power output has to be as consistant as possible. The cylinder is an easy job. I am getting 100% full seal using PTFE tape,Stock Marui O-ring on a Laylax piston. Cylidner polished and lightly greased,head tapered and nozzle crowned. The Action army chamber should have good seal. PTFE tape and maybe some gasket maker around the hop bucking and barrel joint is also a good option.

PDi W-hold rubber,from Xfire. 4.40 euro. They had free shipping,and mine has begun to wear out and has been damaged(Left the gun in the damp,cold attic,with a little bit of mud,dust and water contamination ) I find it offensive that small cast chunks of rubber cost me 10+ euro,PDi ones are much more lighter on my wallet

Had the pleasure of using a Scar-L at a game recently. Very good performance. Especially at 1J,the Irish legal limit. Shot pretty much better than any other ootb AEG at 1J I've used,2-3 round bursts were hitting pretty much everything in average engagement distances of 30-40 meters,even through foliage. The recoil just makes it a bit more satisfying to use. It's cool to have. While it's nothing near a GBB,has good passable feedback for every shot you make. When firing in small full auto bursts it's much better,single fire it's 'meh'. For me though,the biggest factor is the bolt stop. Yes,you can rig up a system on a bog standard AEG but the Marui system works very well. It's very much the most practical part on these guns aside from the good stock performance. I found it much more fun and much more efficient because of the bolt stop. Now the price- they are overpriced. That's the case with pretty much all marui products. Mags are pricey too and are often out of stock,though if you're lucky you can grab them when japanese and asian online shops have free shipping for good prices I've been told. Personally,if I had the money I would definitely get one,I'd avoid the AKs and the G36 as they lack bolt stop,and the AKs have some external durability issues. If i'm paying high money for a recoil I'd get a model that has both advertised features.

They're tempting me too. This seems what E&L should have gone for during release,cornering Dboys and CYMA with better quality externals. Deffo on my next buy list.

Those Forcecore/E&L AKs on Gunfire seem like a solid deal,almost too good to be true. 180 euro for an AKS-74U,full steel and looks like they just have the old generation E&L internal parts which are by no means bad. Is there a catch to them? That's Dboys money and E&L quality is far higher.

Remember to have appropriate footwear! http://ak-hdl.buzzfed.com/static/enhanced/webdr02/2013/2/26/14/enhanced-buzz-10938-1361906540-5.jpg or if it;s winter: http://s1.womanjournal.ru/sites/default/files/imagecache/body-590x/article/87559/images/poloski_na_botinkah_specialno_k_shtanam_podbiral_aga.jpg

Cool,VFC/real style takedown AK that's not a china clone and 100% steel Sounds good. VFC AKs are getting harder to find and the cyma/dboys clones aren't as sexy since they use some pot metal in key areas(which fucks with RS style pinned takedown) I expect it to be sub 1k price since AKs are cheaper to make than ARs (pressing steel is much easier than casting/forging and milling alumi) but being a TW,you will probably still need hundreds worth of parts to get it perfect (how reliable/moneysink are celcius TWs anyway?) Bah,what am I blabbing on about. I'm fine with my china clones and will still await a lord and saviour to clone VFC AKs without using cast dogshit

In stock,54 JPY excluding shipping https://impulse101.jp/?product_cat=vsr-10-series

Russian winter gloves are a good option. Can definitely depend on keeping you warm(Talking about the OD mitten with the red palm area). However,if you want something more dextrous also check out the german army goretex winter gloves,yet to use them in winter since I haven't had a chance and will not have a chance to try them out this winter in Ukraine,but for Irish winter,they're perfect. If you wear one of those fabric liner gloves from a cleanroom it's even warmer. On the gas- I'm reading and hearing two different things- That WE Nuprol 4.0 is indeed slightly better than other 'green' gases (regular propane with silicone mixed in, and the other,that it's just regular propane and silicone mix that's jacked up marketing and price wise. If there's anyone that actually learned how gases work,what is there that you can do to make regular propane more efficient? I can pop down to the local shop and read the 'ingredients' on it if you want What I do for winter,is just throw on more layers. Long Johns,more shirts over the telnyashka, and grand. Austrian M65 jackets are fantastic for water resistance and cold winds. As long as my feet are dry,I'm fine with having soaked and cold legs since I can warm them up more easily by running about. For boots,just warm them up and slather them with regular old kiwi polish. all those waterproofing sprays I've used on previous and current boots do shit all compared to polish. Sno-seal I've heard fucks up the breath ability of the leather. Also,cotton socks are the devil for wet and cold weather. That's all I can really offer.

The VSR Gspec,as it is meant to be