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Everything posted by proffrink
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It's best to e-mail Patrolbase too as they may have swapped it themselves. Krytacs have a quick-change spring so it's feasible for retailers to do that now.
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That rubber o-ring just provides a little backwards pressure as it offsets the hop unit and inner barrel from the outer barrel as well as holding the inner correctly in the outer. Just makes sure it's seated correctly and feeds properly. Should be a spring too. Edit In the current way you have it you've almost certainly lost your hop nub if you've not removed it before the barrel came out. This is a problem. Tap the hop unit and see if a small black tube comes out. To reassemble Put green rubber tube (your hop up rubber) on the end of barrel with the narrow end pointing towards the open end of the barrel Rotate green rubber tube thing until it drops into a groove underneath the barrel and can't rotate Turn the hop off fully Slide grey hop unit over top of barrel with the long end pointing towards the far end of the barrel Look down barrel and try to align the 'window' of the barrel so it's facing up in line with the taller part of the hop unit. Take your time with this Push the green plastic clip (barrel retention clip) onto the barrel. It will fit into the groove in the hop unit Remove the small metal retention clip on the second 'cog' Remove the second cog and the first cog - the first cog being the one of similar size Turn barrel upside down so the tall end of the hop unit is facing downwards (this is so gravity holds the nub in place) Pull green plastic lever outwards slightly until you see the groove in it Place hop up nub onto groove. Usually your hop up nub is a small black cylinder (about 4-5mm long). If you've lost it you need another Push green plastic hop lever up unto place and make sure that nub doesn't fall out Keeping the hop lever pushed down slightly, replace both of the cogs from before Replace the metal retention part on the second cog Look down the barrel again and press the hop lever down slightly until the bucking protrudes into the barrel. Double check that it's aligned properly like before as this is important in making sure your BBs fly straight Push the brass collar down into the hop unit (this stops the barrel from rattling around) Push the o-ring down as well (doesn't need to be tight or anything as it'll be pushed into place when you put the barrel and hop unit back There are a billion videos on this. Consult them if you're still not sure. Just put in 'airsoft hop reassembly'.
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Newbie looking to spend up to £150ish on a rifle
proffrink replied to the_hoopmeister's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Oh these guys. Yeh, avoid. I'd recognise that luminous blue logo done in Word anywhere. -
Airsoft meet for Sussex & the Mall
proffrink replied to Hef Legend's topic in Other Events and Meets
Just waiting on i3666 and Randymanpipe to get their payments in for the pyro. -
Just be careful with that clone red dot, Tom. A Tippmann will probably destroy it
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You're welcome AF-UK Newbie.
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UKARA membership isn't a licence - it's a way of easily proving a defence for buying an RIF. There are other forms of defence so please try to avoid calling it a 'licence' as it gives people the wrong idea. UKARA is not a government body. Taiwan Gun are well recommended. They have their own thread in the 'places to buy' subforum - it's always worth searching the website first as your answer is kind of in that thread already: They'll put your UKARA membership number on the outside of the box and Border Force will verify it upon entry, so make sure the address matches up with your registered UKARA one. So long as you've done that then you'll be completely fine. As for your second question: Well are the same everywhere so Poland is good too. Again, be sure to make the retailer put your UKARA number on the box. As a side note: I owned a Well L96 and it required a lot of upgrading to get it skirmishable; it's not as common to get parts for this became pretty expensive (had to get a lot of the upgrades from PDI, who are not a cheap manufacturer). If you have a budget and care more about performance than how it looks then perhaps consider a JG BAR as they're more documented and slightly cheaper to buy parts for. Also, quick answer questions like this have their own thread which tends to get viewed much quicker and also keeps the forum clean if there's no need for discussion: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/22692-quick-questions-simple-answers/page-39
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I think it's a hastily prepared and poorly written piece of legislature that doesn't do much for the players or regular citizen in practice but it does provide additional way of prosecuting people who use plastic guns to hold up Post Offices and the like. Edit That doesn't mean that as a player you can just ignore it though.
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What's your budget?
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You could throw an NPAS in it to adjust it to whatever you want. PM me if you need any help with the WA-based GBBRs as there's a lot of upgrades out there and an overwhelming amount of information too. I wouldn't sell it because you'd lose a fair bit of its value, and it's a £800 gun.
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I know you're kidding (at least I hope you are) but it's to do with the legal definition of what a sale actually is rather than VCRA itself. It's a little silly, but we're actually lucky in the UK to have such lax laws on RIFs - don't put that at risk by being silly. If you can come up with a better way of policing RIFs then we'd be happy to hear it. You're new to this sport so the nuances of how it's governed legally and the responsibilities that each player has may be lost on you right now, but you'll see as you go along that we have to be much more self-governing than anywhere else to make sure legislation doesn't creep in again. Public posts like yours are the kinds of things that could be dug up in years to come and read out in some civil servant's office somewhere so be cautious.
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Yes.
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It's fine. No one will care if you take it down to a site to play with. VCRA covers the point of sale and not ownership. UKARA isn't a licence - it's a way of validating your defence easily for the purposes of the seller; please try not to call it a licence as people get the wrong idea. Also, he gifted you an Ino M4? That's a very, very expensive gift. You lucky bugger
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Well stop love biting your biceps then. Seriously though - how'd you manage that?
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Like jcheeseright says, ideally in the future you want to move away from that SRC but you can keep the barrel and hop up bucking so that's fine. I'd just grab a decent bucking and fit it into your stock hop unit. Make sure the seal is good by using a couple of wraps of PTFE/Teflon tape, but really that's all you can do without fiddling with the gearbox. You could splash out for a new hop unit like the ProWin one, but they have some slight compatibility issues in certain guns and aren't always entirely necessary. Just work on getting the hop right and you'll be fine.
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Yeh, it's for this reason that I'd keep some in - what they don't want is some idiot gassing it up and it detonating inside their house. Pressurised vessels should stay pressurised if at all possible so the seals have no chance of warping out of shape.
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Also the obligatory 'don't buy from Evike or anywhere in the US unless you absolutely have to' - that $55 rail becomes $75 after shipping then $100 after you're taxed and have paid Parcelforce their courier charge. That kind of money can buy you a really, really nice licensed rail here in the UK. Redwolf Airsoft just had a sale on some of theirs. Not sure if it's still going.
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Oh god please don't be one of those people who chase forum titles - always results in crap post quality.
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Speedsoft. Shudders
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Like Duck already said: LayLax/Prometheus/First Factory/Nineball (all the same company), ORGA and PDI make the nicest ones. I'd recommend a 6.05 because you get a more consistent hop with that wider bore, but a lot of people vouch for tighter bores (i.e. 6.01) for slightly higher fps. Either way you'll see an improvement in accuracy. Bucking wise, Prometheus makes nice ones. Would recommend their softer AEG bucking and some decent ammo weights (.25g or .28g) for the best results without R-hopping or flat hopping.
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MP7. No semi on the 249 so there's no point in bringing it unfortunately.
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If you're still interested, the M249s are back in stock after Lunar New Year. They tend to sell out within a month of them being restocked.
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What's their reasoning there? It it better for the nade or liability issues?
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For number 7) There's the route of buying a 2-tone and replacing the furniture later on. CM-16s are great and quite cheap - a lot (most) retailers will spray the stock and handguard. Both can be replaced later for £30-40.
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Don't do it purposely unless there's no where else to hit them.