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Recently bought an Oshiboom impact grenade but sold it before I'd even had a chance to use it because I realised just how useless it would be for the kind of woodland I play in where 6 months of the year the ground is far too soft to detonate it. I've set my sights on timed BFGs, but I'm not massively impressed by the offerings from Dynatex or SWAT because I'd like something with a little less bulk to it. I can't find any other timed BFG, but do any exist? If so, has anyone had any experience with them? Failing that, the SWAT VTG is what I'll probably spring for. If anyone has used one, how long is the 'break in' period (where it allegedly detonates after just 1.5-2 seconds, rather than the usual 3.5)? Thanks.

G&P red dot or UTG ITA 4.2 are good.

Fair enough - I know the rubberised bottom was meant for that purpose. I guess it's because I only bought a couple as low-cap backups for my M249 and to make cronoing easier, so they look strange.

The EPMs are very good. I've heard great reviews for both but sprung for the EPMs because of their 150rd capacity over the 120 of the Hex Mags. The EPMs do have a really ugly baseplate though, but are compatible with ranger plates etc. so replacing them isn't too tricky.

Just remember

I believe only the Pro Sniper is crimped - the GSpec is just pinned. If it comes to it then buy a cylinder from Airsoft Pro - ASPUK just resell most of their parts with a hefty price tag; I've never much liked their shop and I'm not sure why so many people use it. Convenience maybe. Here's the thing: Shizbazki found his ASPUK cylinder wouldn't fit the SDiK yet I found that my Airsoft Pro one did. Either ASPUK have a slightly different design being made by Airsoft Pro or Airsoft Pro updated their cylinder design or Mancraft updated the threads on their cylinder head. It's a bit of a mystery as it's been known for a long time that ASPUK simply resell Airsoft Pro stuff (so you'd expect them to work similarly). Either way, we know the SDiK fits the stock Marui cylinder and will also fit the nikel-plated Airsoft Pro cylinder so if you have an issue with your Marui one then pick up a new one from Airsoft Pro.

If the cylinder is pinned then look in to removing the pin first - it's threaded too so once the pin is removed you shouldn't have any problems. I'd look up a video or two on this though as plenty of people have done it. If that becomes a problem then you can always buy a new cylinder from Airsoft Pro for a decent price or just go on the Facebook VSR groups and source someone's old stock cylinder (plenty of people who are upgrading their internals on a spring build will be selling them). By the way, you don't need to quote the post if it's right above yours

Please do. Sounds like they were talking about a springer - the SDiK comes with its own guide rod and cylinder head. Removing the GSpec cylinder head means knocking/drilling through a ⌀~3mm pin. I've never done it myself, but from the looks of the video Shizbazki did - I'd PM him on here maybe. Edit As Shizbazki demonstrates in his video: The whole of the cylinder internals are removed. In the video you can see he's using a 90o trigger, piston, aftermarket spring guide and (probably) spring - none of these are necessary in the SDiK, but he was running a spring-powered build beforehand so rather than have to switch back to the old trigger he picked up the 90o SDiK kit. I imagine he either sold the piston, guide rod, spring, cylinder and cylinder head or kept them for another project. The standard 45o sear/trigger mechanism has a small surface area which is holds the piston back with until you pull the trigger. The point of the 90o sear engagement trigger/piston combination was to give more contact surface area and reduce wear on the sears - this is important for use over 1J in a spring-powered build as the Marui design was made for sub-1J use. Lots of people just go and throw a new spring in and 3 months down the line their sear rounds off or the piston snaps and their gun is broken. However, the SDiK kit doesn't use spring power - it has a very short spring that's actually about half the power of even the stock Marui one that the 45o sear engagement was designed for. This is because the job of the spring is only to actuate the valve that releases CO2 or HPA and isn't the power source itself, so it can be very small. That's why I say the SDiK route isn't as expensive as people may first think: You don't need a 90o trigger, piston, spring guide, spring, new cylinder or cylinder head, because it has no effect on the operation of the SDiK. Again, the idea of the 90o trigger and piston is to add longevity to a high-muzzle energy spring-based build. Here's what a 90o sear engagement looks like: Here's what a 45o sear engagement (i.e. a stock VSR or VSR clone) looks like:

Please use the search for things like this. It's been discussed to death. http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28710-fogging-please-help/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28399-the-infamous-goggle-fogging/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/27833-anti-fog/

Which forum was this?

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I think we might have to put up with a few lazy posts for a while but ultimately those sellers may turn in to forum members so I see it as a good thing long-term. Mods will stay on top of the crappy threads anyway I'd imagine.

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I don't get this whole thread. Is it an advertisement or are these amazing YooToobe personalities or what? I must be missing something. Seems like an incredibly lazy OP.

The SDiK is made specifically for sniper rifles. Your friend should look in to HPA-tapping his magazines but that requires a pretty costly regulator and tank - the SDiK can run off CO2 and has quite a cheap, low volume (but very small) regulator as it doesn't need a high refresh rate like you would for fully automatic fire. Here's the one I built: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29031-vsr-sdik-build-n-ting/ Shizbazki did a great video on fitting one and how easy it is to fit (also demonstrates what the kit really is): They're beginning to get a bit more popular now that people have realised how affordable it is when you factor in the cost of what you would have spent on a new trigger mech, cylinder, piston, spring, spring guide and nozzle if you were to go the spring route. Plus CO2 is absolutely dirt cheap if you buy the bulbs from the right place. Once that's done you obviously want to spend a lot of time on your hop unit and barrel as they're where you'll get the accuracy from - the SDiK is just a consistent power source.

How long have you both been running them?

Er no, but still wouldn't buy anything from the US unless you have to as the postage and duty will kill you. AliExpress and DHGate are like eBay for factories (and the cheapest place that one can buy from) if you're ok waiting 3 weeks for something to arrive. Just remember to change the currency to GBP before ordering. Failing that, look at mainland Europe as postage is cheap and quick (plus you'll pay a lower rate of VAT in a lot of countries). Edit Should say the majority of sellers on DHGate and AliExpress are located in China for obvious reasons - that's why they're cheap.

Visionking make consistently excellent long-range optics and are fairly priced. I'd look at them on AliExpress or DHGate.

Can't you read? He's wearing a night camo parka.

UTG 4.2 ITA hasn't broken on me yet and is rated for real steel so I'd recommend it. There are a lot out there but it's about what you're willing to spend and the ITA is about the cheapest properly rated red dot I've found (and it gets alright reviews from actual firearms owners from the research I did before buying mine so clearly it at least doesn't break immediately). http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UTG-4-2-ITA-Red-Green-CQB-Dot-with-QD-Mount-Riser-Adaptor-SCP-DS3840W/32330881383.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201644_4_505_506_503_504_301_10020_502_10001_10002_10017_10010_10005_10006_10011_10003_10021_10004_10022_10009_10008_10018_10019_9963,searchweb201560_2,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_6448&btsid=a86c0e1d-2b21-4b9d-a6f7-b22ebea7268c Obviously you don't need to have the same concerns with a short dot or scope (if you're needing this for a DMR) as anything will work really. It's the cheapo holographic 552 and 551-esque clones that tend to break quickly or at least start ghosting after a while.

This is discussed in a lot of threads so I won't go into detail, but you can change the muzzle energy to whatever you like, has a shorter and lighter bolt cycle (you can get shots off quicker) and doesn't require a lot of the upgrade parts like sears and trigger mechanism that a spring build requires. Can run off HPA or CO2 (with an adapter), which makes it cheap to run as well. Also, my point about the GSpec was the clones - the JG BAR, are slightly more upgrade-friendly purely because the cylinder isn't pinned. If you go down the SDiK route and are upgrading the barrel and hop unit anyway then it's not worth buying a Marui as it's a waste of money if you're stripping out all the good bits and the ones with pinned cylinders can be a bit of a pain to get open if you're not swapping the cylinder (which you wouldn't want to in an SDiK as it won't give any performance upgrade). Someone will probably come in any confirm this, but you may be alright anyway as I think the newer Gspecs have the cylinder just threaded anyway *shrugs*. If you have the money to upgrade now then go SDiK in a JG BAR (Gpsec) or similar. If not (or you want to upgrade to spring later on) then the TM VSR (Gpsec) is your best choice. Really this all boils down to whether or not you want to upgrade immediately (the SDiK giving the flexibility to shoot at 1J until you move, or by just setting up a springer with a weaker spring and then swapping it when you do more) or if you want to bide your time with the stock rifle for a bit, because the JG BAR is a good platform for upgrades and will save you a fair bit of money, but ultimately isn't much good stock like the TM is.

Probably not the BBs. Check if your muzzle energy is fluctuating first by firing a few shots through a crono. Anything more than 15ft/s in either direction is really going to mess with your hop consistency. Also it's seriously cold outside right now - GBBRs are very susceptible to the weather and any cooldown will be exacerbated by the cold.

Well at least you're not useless enough that you were shooting blanks for the first 10 minutes of a game because you forgot to release the BB tensioner after filling up one of your magazines.

I think I covered this earlier, but a barrels length means nothing in airsoft. Sure, you may get a marginally higher muzzle energy but you can just upgrade the spring to mitigate that. There's also the issue of a longer barrel costing more and having to buy a rail (Pro Sniper versions don't come with one, like Snakeeyes said). If you find the barrel too short then you can always buy a much nicer, longer one off PDI, ORGA, EdGI, AA, etc. in the future anyway, but some people just attach a suppressor permanently and run the inner-barrel through it (giving an overall inner-barrel length of up to about 450mm). Again - and I can't stress this enough - barrel length is not very important in airsoft. Also, look into the Mancraft SDiK kit. Discussed in other threads (use the search) but a reliable and surprisingly affordable upgrade route for the VSR when you offset its cost against what you'd usually have to buy in a springer setup but don't. One final thing: Most of the TM VSRs come with a pinned cylinder head that's a bit of a pain to remove for later spring changes and upgrades. You'd likely be looking to swap the cylinder later on if you go for the conventional springer route, but if you do like the look of the SDiK then that pin can cause issues as switching the cylinder to just a normal threaded one is mostly a waste of money with the SDiK. I say this because a lot of the clones - like the JG BAR - come with a threaded cylinder. If you come to the conclusion that an SDiK might be a route you want to try then reconsider buying a clone.

Ah, I see what you meant in the PM now.