proffrink

PM'd you regarding upgrades a few days ago but you've not opened it. On a PC go to the top right and click the envelope. On a phone go to the top right and click the four little squares then the envelope.

Not bad at all. Some buckings are fine with it but If you get a problem then look there first.

Hey Mokey. Welcome to the forums.

That's a little powerful to run in a stock G18C - comparible to Nuprol 3.0/4.0 and Guarder Powerful. Maybe switch to a less compressed gas after you're done with that can. It doesn't take much to make that plastic slide really snappy Don't run .12g as they have no range because they shed their energy early during flight and don't hold the inertia of the hop as long. In fact, you should invest in some quality .25g, not .20g - part of the great thing about Maruis is they shoot slower due to Japanese laws but go super far because they have a decent hop out of the box. Dialling in some .25s is a good idea as you'll get 35+ metres out of it that way. Remember, remove the slide and use the hop wheel. Turn it to a very low setting, shoot it, then if the BBs dip too much (which they should on the first try) take the slide off and turn the wheel a little before shooting again. Rinse and repeat until you get a flat trajectory. If your BBs curve into the sky then you've put the hop on too much.

Yeh, that's the real issue with R-hopping apart from the install: If it's not working then you've probably got to remove and replace it (which is a huge ballache).

Yeh, that's what I mean and I certainly jumped to conclusions in my first post because I never even noticed the recess on my own ORGA until you said about it - I've seen a lot of people not bothering to remove it (on a standard barrel) and then just getting it crimped inside their hop unit. There are some posts on the Sniper Forums about it in VSR chambers :S Also seen talk of just using a straight forward Maple Leaf but right now I still swear by R-hopping for the airseal that it gets alone (plus the fact that you completely bypass shoddy mouling jobs some buckings have). If anything is wrong then I only have myself to blame and that's great because I can usually do something about it, heh.

Fair enough. I asked the question - Trigger answered and we talked about it. Surely you can see why a moulded bucking - uncut mind - may have an adverse effect on someone's hop performance with a flat nub. It's all in good jest, but I can see you've missed the nuance; when I say 'put to rest' I simply mean the differences in material. Not whether or not it splits. As I said before - and if you check - you'll see both the purple and blue buckings are both rated 'extra soft', so I'd be interested to know. Looking at two right now I can't see an obvious difference in thickness. Again, I know Nineball/LayLax/Prometheus/First Factory have been struggling over the past few years to keep up the consistency of their products (could be down to dyes getting old etc.) so it's possible there's more to it than just a design issue. I've said it before and I'll say it again: Saying things like 'people use what they think is best' isn't really an argument - it's always the case with any hobby like this. Unlike some other forums we get that these are just toy guns so no ones sole opinion holds that much weight and I'm very much aware of that as you should be too.

And as we also know people will use whatever the person before has told them to use as well. I've e-mailed them to see what material the blue uses so we can put this to rest. I know they've had bad batches in the past with their VSR buckings. Maybe it's the same case, I dunno.

Man that's weird. Hope it's not the engine itself.

BBs do vary in airsoft, but with most AEGs at most ranges just some half-decent stuff yields similar results. When you start talking about sniper rifle and DMR ammo that's when subjectivity plays a big part. Also different batches of BBs get different results (Nuprol are pretty well known for their terrible mid-production batches from last year).

Heh.

I get that too, but some people have said they don't even file down the mound.

Yeh, but most barrels don't have the plane that the ORGA has for the mound so you're going to get air blowing out of the barrel and to one side. That surely can't be good and is what I'm trying to get my head around. Also yep, those Firefly ones seem great. I'd still go the R-hop route, but it's a faff the first few times.

Yes but my understanding is people swear by the prometheus purple because the mound is quality as well as the soft bucking producing a great airseal. Don't get me wrong, I think it's an excellent bucking but I don't know why people are using flat hop nubs with it because that's absolutely not what they're designed for. I'll go easy on the talcum powder, thanks.

I know there have been issues with all their line of buckings recently due to poor QC - even some of their gas routers I've had to send back etc.). Maybe you were unlucky? I've run two blue ones now (both were later R-hopped though so maybe that's why they didn't break) and not had issues. They were bundling the blue ones with their barrels at one point - like you say, they seemed identical. Your strange predilections in that other thread make me think otherwise.

Hm, they're both classed as Prometheus' 'soft type' material - are you sure you're not talking about the VSR purple vs. the AEG blue? I should e-mail them and ask.

Again, why use a flat nub with a mounded bucking? Those things don't mix as you'll be putting pressure further forward than you'd like. This is a genuine question - I must be missing something if you're not rotating it (but even if you are, why not use their blue bucking which is meant for flat hopping?).

Sniper rifles don't use anywhere near the same air volume as a P* though. What regulator are you using? Mancraft? The refresh rate on those is not really meant to be very good.

Exactly this: It's more about keeping the seals lubed for the next time you use them. I do think it's a plus just to have some sort of positive contact between the seals that means no dust or moisture is going to creep in, but I'm not sure I accept that 50-80psi is deforming the o-rings.

Leaving them full is dumb, but I was always under the impression some should be left in just to keep the seals held against one another and stop any moisture getting in - the o-rings can't dryrot in that kind of environment. I get the bit about deformation, but that's a 20 minute fix by taking the o-rings out and leaving them in some silicone overnight. Moisture and oxidation inside the magazine is a bit harder to get rid of - same reason why it's advised to leave a little pressure in Scuba tanks when storing them. At least that's what I've been led to believe - I'll check out that link soon as you can find it.

That's a fair point. Do a full auto burst and watch the needle - see if it's failing to refresh properly.

Sorry, I read it like you were looking to build that not buy it. Looks like an alright setup to build off.

Ah, I don't mean consistency - mine was consistent, but consistently low. On the DG with 500mm of barrel there just wasn't the air to get the BB down the barrel

I have an ORGA 6.23 (actually selling it because I can't get the compression I want) and I know of the second groove for rotated buckings. Thing is I've never been convinced that you'd get an ideal airseal with this so I'd change that anyway - even with the offset recess for the mound, but obviously that's not the problem. You should try and pick up a Prometheus blue when possible. They're cheap anyway. Sorry for not being of more help