jcheeseright

552 uses AA batteries, 553 uses AAA batteries, 551 uses LR44 batteries. Of those the AAs and AAAs are cheapest/easiest to get and AAA are ligher/smaller. With that in mind I'd say the 553 is the best option although they're all functionally the same.

Got them on ebay for £80, the lenses were a complete write off but they're cheap enough to replace.

I use a 22 holster for my TM glock and it fits perfectly, less than half a millimeter of play.

sell/return it and buy a glock22 holster instead, your TM glock will fit perfectly.

.60 isn't something you'll be able to get... plastic only gets so dense!

either a 7.4v LiPo or a 9.6v NiMh, either will perform better than the 8.4v NiMh you've got at the moment.

second thumbs up for stitch me up, rapid service and reasonable prices.

The glow will be naked eye visible from directly in front of you, from the sides it'll be all but indetectable, it IS visible to someone who's been in the dark for a while though. As for the IR filter, I wouldn't bother; I tried it with a near-IR laser and because the filter only allowed true-IR through the output was massively reduced to the point where it wasn't even worth using. Filtering a visible spectrum LED torch is also relatively pointless, the output range of a 'white' LED is really narrow (they also tend to be towards the blue end of the spectrum) and very little IR is emitted to even get through the filter. Incandescent bulbs are another matter entirely, they kick out LOADS of IR and work great with a filter, but at the cost of brilliance in the visible spectrum. Sadly, even going high-end on IR emitters doesn't really help, even a surefire KM3 dual vis/IR head gives off a very dull glow in IR mode. For what you're after, especially the IR strobing (which will 100% mess with gen1 NVGs, less so autogated gen3) the torch you've got there will almost certainly do the business.

You'll really struggle to fit glasses underneath, prescription inserts however should be fine. The key to avoiding/minimising fogging is simple physics; moisture condenses on cold things. If your lenses are warm then less moisture will condense on them in the first place and the anti-fog coating won't have to work so hard. Put your eyepro on at the start of the day and KEEP IT ON, even the radiated heat from your face makes a difference. Beyond that, a fan assist to keep the humidity down inside your goggles and some good detergent (that's all anti-fog spray is) on the lenses will bridge the gap. ESS turbofans are what I personally use for indoor/close quarters stuff where I want a full seal and massive coverage. For outdoor/woodland/etc stuff I use ESS Crossbow glasses or Oakley sunglasses, depending on how sunny it is!

There's no conversation to be had there, the muzzle is the end of your gun, e.g. Where the outer barrel/suppressor ends.

JPC is probably your best bet, since the cummerbund can be adjusted for length by overlapping it at the back. Your absolute best bet is to get a real one sized for small plate bags, since you're 5'2" medium plates will be MASSIVE on you, the down side to that being that they're quite expensive at £200 ish in the UK.

Surrender/bang is not my style either. Even at point blank all someone's going to get is a little welt, so why deal with all the faffing about that shouting at people causes? Just put two in their arse/face and move on. Regarding eyepro, oakleys are fine as they're safety rated, I would go for a heavier style frame though like fuel cells or flak jackets. I personally wear a pair of fuel cells with prescription lenses in when I'm using NVGs as they're much lower profile than the ESS safety glasses I use during the daytime. As everyone else has said, a sniper rifle for your first gun is generally a bad choice, not so much that it takes loads of practice or whatever, more just that it's such a niche style of play that very few people really enjoy it. The range advantage to be had is negligible in real terms and the MED you have to suffer for that advantage is extremely limiting. For example, a very well set up sniper rifle can reasonably be expected to hit a stationary target (without wind/foliage in the way) at about 80metres. Lots of places enforce a 30m MED which means over a quarter of your total range is unusable! Add to that the fact that at the extreme end of your range that single BB is carrying very little energy means that people often won't even notice you've hit them can make it very frustrating. I expect getting a perfect one-shot hit on someone's medic pouch hanging out from behind a tree at 80m is really satisfying... having them ignore it because they didn't even register that it had happened would enrage me! That said, you know your own mind better than any of us know it, so maybe that style of play will suit. Have a go with a few rental guns first at a site, maybe ask one of the local bolt action guys if you can have a go on their rifle and see if it meets your expectations... 99% of the time it won't, especially if you've any experience shooting real firearms.

Having read many similar reviews of this event I'm seriously looking forward to their upcoming game at STANTA. It's a long old drive for me but I think I'll make the effort!

Anything from the top of your head to the tip of your toes.

How do you find it? I'm looking for a decent 19 that I can do some stuff with (RMR cut slide, tritium suppressor sights, threaded barrel etc) but if it shoots like a pig and only gets through half a mag before gassing out I'll have to get WE instead :-(

Believe it or not, that rail is the exact same length as the one the OP posted, just doesn't have a cutout for the front sight post. Seems perfectly reasonable to me, getting your peq/torch as close to the muzzle as possible makes sense so why restrict yourself by having the rail finish 5 inches from the end of your barrel?

Yes you will need to adjust your hop for a heavier BB.

Since they sell out every event anyway I'm not sure they need the press. I expect their motivation has come largely from (elitism inbound) wanting a better quality of player to go to their events. Been to a few stirling games that've been ruined by people turning up and treating it like a Sunday skirmish.

Tier1 do decent weekend games, Combat Airsoft Group are a new starter that've done a couple of events up north which have been well received.

But that's not an M4.

I use either Blue Force Gear tenspeed pouches (REALLY good!) or a Mayflower R&C quad shingle, depending on which plate carrier/chest rig I'm using that day. First Spear also make a good line of speed reload pouches for MP7 magazines. Of all of those, the tenspeed ones are cheapest, you can pick them up from tactical-kit.co.uk for a reasonable ish price. If you're looking into repro stuff, Semapo Gear make a good closed top pouch and Emerson/TMC make passable shingle type pouches (though I won't trust my £35 a go magazines to anything made by emerson or TMC!).

Most likely case is that you'll end up with a worse gun than when you started! Unless you buy an absolute pig (SRC M4 for example) then out of the box performance should be all round pretty decent and reliability will be very good. Start tinkering and reliability will go out of the window unless you know what you're doing.

A suppressor is just a hollow tube at the end of your barrel, it won't have any effect on muzzle energy at all. Best to get TWG to downgrade the springs before shipping it.

Can't see a BB getting through a bike visor. They're small round bits of soft plastic going not very fast.

All seems pretty sensible to me, I'd steer clear of ESSTAC stuff for an impression kit though, they're not issued and very few soldiers buy their own kit. The thing that'll set your kit apart though and really ID it as being Canadian is the gun. You'll need to get the C8 spot on.