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jcheeseright

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Everything posted by jcheeseright

  1. Putting a tamiya to deans adapter in will be less efficient than just using tamiya on its own. Rewire your batteries, it takes about 10 mins.
  2. Depends entirely on the organiser, the site and the intensity of the game. If it's a stirling or tier 1 game you're very likely going to have to sort yourself out for everything, though if it's at somewhere like the sandpit depending on the side you're on you may end up living in buildings etc. All very situational, absolute minimum I would recommend is a good warm sleeping bag, rollmat/campbed, waterproof jacket (that conforms to the dress requirements for the game, no bright orange regatta jackets!), 2 sets of clothing, gun, spare gun, reliable RADIO. Stirling and tier1 both have fairly comprehensive kit lists on their websites, though again depending on the game they may be too comprehensive! One thing I won't recommend is ration pack style food, it's something I see every newbie doing; warming up their packets of sludge over a shitty old trangia stove (or similar). Just pack some sandwiches and loads of high calorie snack foods; I like peanuts and haribo for this. If you absolutely MUST have hot food then hotdog sausages heat up really quick in boiling water.
  3. An airsoft gun shouldn't pierce a can from 20ft, if it'll go through aluminium it'll go through skin!
  4. From impulse101, about 6 months ago but a friend put an order through for a SCAR stock catch about a month ago with no problem. Haven't ever ordered a part from echigoya.
  5. No cigar because you're not in Japan, same for Tokyo model company who are based in Hong Kong.
  6. Ukara is a database of site memberships, so you'll need to be a member of one site, if that one site is happy to accept stamps from other sites then you're all good but I expect they won't. There's also a requirement that the games are done in not LESS than 2 months, so doing it in 3 weeks is not feasible.
  7. Impulse101 order direct from TM using the parts request form in the back of the instruction manuals. WGCshop don't have a direct line to TM, they're in Hong Kong and TM only deal direct within Japan.
  8. https://impulse101.jp/ they'll sort you out.
  9. Have you tried it with another brand of BBs? I found nuprol ones to be really poor quality, bad enough that they jammed up a pistol style speed loader!
  10. Have a look at KWA magazines, KWC and KWA are pretty much interchangeable.
  11. I use an SRC hard case to carry my guns about. So far it's stood up to some fairly heavy abuse with absolutely no damage to any of my guns. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend one.
  12. True fact; condor kit is made in the USA and issued to UKSF. Edit: subtext to the above, it's solid stuff.
  13. Top tip: don't buy viper, it's garbage. There's loads of other brands that are better and often cheaper. Uktactical.com are doing a 10% off sale on warrior at the moment (stuff is pretty much bomb proof). Likewise flecktarn.co.uk do a good range of bulle pouches and rigs which are very well put together.
  14. don't worry about camo, at airsoft ranges block colours work just as well anyway, as long as you're not wearing bright orange you're all good. chest rig/plate carrier etc wise, budget and capacity are your two main factors here; with a molle rig you can tailor it 100% to your requirements or theres plenty of already dressed chest rigs that are really well arranged. Best bet is to give us an indication of how much stuff you're likely to be carrying and a rough budget, a 3x magazine and one grenade load is going to require a very different solution to 10x magazines, 2x grenades, bolt cutters, pistol, first aid kit, 3L camelbak, waterproofs etc... Oh, and a backpack for woodland games is entirely unnecessary, never ever have I had a requirement for one on a standard walk-on day.
  15. None of my AEGs vary by more than 5fps per shot, that's less than 2% difference in power output at the muzzle, which is not unusual. Your perception that HPA guns hit harder is 100% in your head, once the BB leaves the barrel the method that was used to push it out is entirely irrelevant.
  16. How do you work that out? 350fps is 350fps, doesn't matter what propels the BB. It could be flung by magical airsoft fairies hiding in the barrel and as long as it passes chrono it's exactly the same as a bog standard G&G as far as power goes.
  17. Contour attached to the side of the helmet with Velcro.
  18. The light on most peq boxes is rubbish, and lasers are 99% of the time useless for anything other than freaking out cats. If you're after gun-bling then the VFC PEQ15 is very well put together.
  19. yes, UKARA is just a database of site memberships.
  20. yes, there is no age restriction on the manufacture of a RIF, only sale and purchase.
  21. I generally tend to aim for legs arms or faces, even with full face protection a whack in the boat race is enough to make most people call it.
  22. leafgear.com are worth a look too, probably won't do much in the way of multicam black/atacs LE but they have a half decent range of stuff.
  23. SOPMOD batteries are shite, the gun itself is awesome. Get someone with a monster soldering iron to put a deans connector onto the contact bars in the stock (it's very simple with a powerful enough iron) and just use standard LiPo batteries. I use these: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-101mm-long.html They're a bit of a squeeze to fit in the tube down the side of the stock, but they definitely DO fit. I wouldn't advise getting any of the battery adaptors, they're all really expensive for what they actually do.
  24. cleaning rod with a bit of lint-free cloth on the end, first couple of pulls soak it in some kind of alcohol (I use cheap vodka if I can't get hold of proper rubbing alcohol). Just keep pulling it through until the cloth comes through clean.
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