Khyber

Nowhere near as jazzy or fancy as half of the bits in here, but if it works it works 🤷🏻‍♂️.
 
Made use of an old tracer unit, dremeled a bit of length off, added some o-rings and now it might actually see some use.
 

Seethe and cope, this is what peak performance looks like.  That whole thing is put together to invoke screeching from purists: there are no Assault-Rifle-16 variants with a solid stock and short barrel, and yet it lives.  
 

Just bought a scorpion evo to add to my collection. Filled a great space I had in my case. £220 with bag, 6mid caps and a high cap! Bargain in my eyes. Will be selling the bag and high cap on as I have no need for them

What are these 'shadows' of which you speak?

Inforce WML mounted at 12oc right at the front of the rail. Ambidextrous and low profile 👍

Nice work dude.

Managed to re use an old plug and solder a longer length of wire to it, whilst I was at it I threaded it through the handguard and also made my Unity button into a momentary switch as I prefer that to on/off. Had to disassemble the tiny button and basically super glued the 2 'clicky' parts together to remove the function and make it permanently momentary. If you ever wondered how clicky pens worked as a kid and took them apart to find out like me, It's the same mechanism. 😂

Managed to re use an old plug and solder a longer length of wire to it, whilst I was at it I threaded it through the handguard and also made my Unity button into a momentary switch as I prefer that to on/off. Had to disassemble the tiny button and basically super glued the 2 'clicky' parts together to remove the function and make it permanently momentary. If you ever wondered how clicky pens worked as a kid and took them apart to find out like me, It's the same mechanism. 😂

Managed to re use an old plug and solder a longer length of wire to it, whilst I was at it I threaded it through the handguard and also made my Unity button into a momentary switch as I prefer that to on/off. Had to disassemble the tiny button and basically super glued the 2 'clicky' parts together to remove the function and make it permanently momentary. If you ever wondered how clicky pens worked as a kid and took them apart to find out like me, It's the same mechanism. 😂

Managed to re use an old plug and solder a longer length of wire to it, whilst I was at it I threaded it through the handguard and also made my Unity button into a momentary switch as I prefer that to on/off. Had to disassemble the tiny button and basically super glued the 2 'clicky' parts together to remove the function and make it permanently momentary. If you ever wondered how clicky pens worked as a kid and took them apart to find out like me, It's the same mechanism. 😂

These ones....
They almost look like coaxial plugs.
Have managed to salvage one from a switch as the wire is too short so can add my own length to it. But would be nice to be able to buy a few so i can make pressure switches the right length and hide wires inside handguard etc..
 
 

I don't think I've ever seen one being used, although I've seen one being sworn at in the safe zone, which I understand is their default condition.  Thus the "servicing" obsession.
 
The seller's posting history here suggest that he's not a throbber, and it doesn't look like a deceptive advert.
 
Of course, you'd have to be loopy to pay that for one RIF that might shred its internals at chrono.  Far better to do what most of us here do: spend that much on ten RIFs, hang eight of them on the wall, bring two, and have them both crap out on the day.  
 
Alternatively, send Luke at Negative £3K in cash and a bottle of wine, and await the results.

Just seen this in my feed. Think he put too many zeros there... 

You'll certainly see a difference between mounting at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, let us know what you think though!

No shadows thrown here 😂
 

"This is quite possibly the most German thing ever created".
 
 

As a right handed shooter, I've always mounted my light on the right hand side of my guns. This is mostly because of thing I read about how your opponent will usually aim AT the light pointing at them so if it's outboard of your body then they're less likely to hit you. Seems to work so I stick with it.

Cheers for that, really interesting, I’ll check later which is the better sealing one, but agreed, could definitely be an update, Marui seem to be really good at that 

Hey, so I'm making this thread purely for discussion on where and why you mount your torch on a rifle. At first I was mounting mine on the right side of my rail as this is what I saw everyone do. I have since moved mine to the bottom for, which for me, is a good reason. I noticed when it was mounted to the right the shadow from the barrel obscured the light and when 'pieing' doorways etc that shadow were quite often in the way and hiding what I was trying to illuminate. Since mounting to the bottom I find this has eliminated this and sent the shadow way up above my point of interest. Though now I have an after market longer rail, I have noticed the shadow is much smaller as the torch is further forward. How do you mount yours and have you experienced such hindrances? Is there a reason you mount it the way you do or is it just from mimicking. Curious on thoughts.
 
 

I had a look at that but where I got 'P-Chan' at a really good price, there's no chance I can get the VP for less than £300. 😒
She'd see right through it and know I really bought it for myself. And what should be a "Cheers honey. That's really thoughtful." would probably become a "You spent HOW MUCH? On a pink toy gun?!" 😆

when i do hobbies, i spend a lot upfront (within reason, if £640 so far is reasonable XD) to make sure i've got things i need, and then expand upon it later.

would you believe me if i told you i already have that mask in my basket, im just looking for goggles now, so ill be gettign a fast helmet too... wanna cover as much of my face and head as possible, the rest of my body wont hurt as much as the face lmao

Welcome. You look like your taking a pretty sensible approach. I use one of these mesh masks and personally I think it's great.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07953M6Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_dl_5YXMAX5TEEC47GCHD7DX
 
Has flexible cheeks so cheek welding and looking down optics is no issue and also has ear protection. As you imagined in your earlier post. It is no fun taking one to the ear so these are great and will work with most standard goggles or glasses. I'm using it with a valken goggle, cant remember which one now but they are fairly chunky and marry up with the mesh lovely.
 

Welcome. You look like your taking a pretty sensible approach. I use one of these mesh masks and personally I think it's great.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07953M6Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_dl_5YXMAX5TEEC47GCHD7DX
 
Has flexible cheeks so cheek welding and looking down optics is no issue and also has ear protection. As you imagined in your earlier post. It is no fun taking one to the ear so these are great and will work with most standard goggles or glasses. I'm using it with a valken goggle, cant remember which one now but they are fairly chunky and marry up with the mesh lovely.
 

Don't listen to anyone shitting on your ideas and goals.  Just do it legally and safely.
"InCamera" is a very good youtube channel.  It really shows what you can do to get the effects you want in a creative way.
Hope it works out well...

Thought it wouldn't be much different. I have an NPAS installed so all good there. I use zeroone gas which is made by abbey so silicone free. Uses UPL instead. So I'm used to dry gas and lubing my rubber 🤦‍♂️😂