Clanktank

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

Finished the stock mod for my ICS CQR 'Orion'
 
Fits battery size H21.5 L115 W34mm
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/spektrum-2200mah-3s-11.1v-100c-smart-lipo-battery-ic3-443852
 
What I forgot to take a picture of is that you need to chop about 3 inches off the buffer tube. The stock is still completely stable without it. I had to get my black n' decker out for that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some gear and shim holders for when the gearbox is in bits. Made from old bearings, brass hook stubs, and some wood offcuts. Can't have them lying around and getting mixed up. 😉

Mk5 Thunderflash holder to go on the front of my chest rig. Velcro backed - it'll have a loop of shock cord to provide tension.
 

 
 

don't really think there's a particular term for it, it's just a partial overspin.
 
when the cutoff lever trips, and assuming there's no active braking from a mosfet, the motor just shuts off but the mass of the rotating parts, the gears etc are still spinning so they just keep rolling until something stops them, which will be a combination of natural friction, the strength of the magnets in the motor (eg a strong neodynium motor will slow down quicker) and, when it hits the piston again, the energy to pull back the spring.
 
overspin usually isn't commented on unless you have a fast enough setup that it can not only pull the piston back a little, but all the way to roll over to a second shot (which is the double tap). as mentioned it's the same effect as you're intentionally trying to acheive if you're using a mosfet with precocking, which will run the motor intentionally a little longer so when it stops it's nearly all the way back, idea being the time between pulling the trigger and the shot actually firing is much shorter without the need to have a really fast motor/gear combo.
 
it's genuinely nothing to worry about, indeed depending on the setup you actually want it to happen a little bit, as if you stopped the motor too quickly (eg by using active brake) then it can stop quick enough to have the cutoff lever still engaged and lockup the trigger.

It is called momentum.  A moving object will not stop dead unless a brake is applied to it; it will come to a halt once it has been slowed sufficiently by friction or another form of resistance.

It does not have a name in airsoft; it is just something that happens.

Issue 1 is not really a problem and will probably be non existent once you put the heavier spring in. It really helps with trigger response without paying for a pre cocking mosfet if you want to look at it that way! 
 
Issue 2, as above. You need to put it in the receiver and install the stock tube. 

so issue number 1 is very common, and not really an issue per-say. essentially the motor and geartrain still has momentum when the cutoff lever trips and will roll round until stopped. it's basically free precocking, as all precocking does is intentionally run the motor a little longer so it stops near the end of travel. a mosfet with active braking will remedy this (although sometimes can go too far and stop the system too quickly giving lockups on semi), a better solution would be a mosfet with precocking which will let you intentionally control where the box stops.
 
issue number 2 i'd say is happening because you're testing it outside of the reciever (going by the picture), assuming this is going to an ar derivative (the sr-15 in your profile) then when you put the gearbox into the reciever and bolt on the buffer tube/stock, the bolt that threads into the back of the box will go into the spring guide and hold it tight to the back of the box, stopping it from tilting.

OK, so the lower is done. The Cowcow internals and GM trigger are in place.
 
The trigger is almost a direct fit but a little adjustment was required to allow it to pull back far enough to release the hammer. You can see it has small extra protrusions to limit over-pull after the release.  One possible downside with aftermarket triggers is you do lose the safety.
 

 
I Modified the auto sear to match the original.
 
 
 
I also took some pictures of the mods I made to the nozzle. You just need to cut/file the rear profiIe to match the original and trim the side guides by the smallest amount (about 0.5mm) to allow it to slide smoothly in the bolt/BBU.  Just shave a little at a time until it moves freely like the original.
Before

 
During

 
After
 

 
I found that the Cowcow hammer roller caused a very sticky slide so although this picture has the silver Cowcow part this has now been replaced by the original. All fires nice and smoothly now.
 
 

 
 

 
James

So, I was just browsing for "airsoft skins" and found this chap that does Camo Wraps for the AAP-01 (plus a few others). He's based in France though so not sure what the postage cost would be. He sells both the pre-cut templates below and also A4 sheets of the wrap. ...I guess the wrap could be bought over here and one could do similar. Anyone had any experience of wrapping RIFS?
 
https://en.airsoftskinzone.com/aap01
 

 

You should have got a parts diagram with the pistol that should give you some idea.
To me it looks like a simple philips screw inside, take out the silver arm, and it should come off. Looks like a spring and ball-bearing in there as well, so just be careful they don't ping-fuckit into oblivion.

Empty box for a tenner?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-G-ARMAMENT-FULL-AIRSOFT-GUN-M4-BOX-CARRY-CASE-CASING-TRAVEL-TOP-FIVE-ENG/324280256265?hash=item4b809c0709:g:5JkAAOSwwgRfTmZ1

Empty box for a tenner?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-G-ARMAMENT-FULL-AIRSOFT-GUN-M4-BOX-CARRY-CASE-CASING-TRAVEL-TOP-FIVE-ENG/324280256265?hash=item4b809c0709:g:5JkAAOSwwgRfTmZ1

Empty box for a tenner?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-G-ARMAMENT-FULL-AIRSOFT-GUN-M4-BOX-CARRY-CASE-CASING-TRAVEL-TOP-FIVE-ENG/324280256265?hash=item4b809c0709:g:5JkAAOSwwgRfTmZ1

Few from some sites
 
https://www.defconairsoft.co.uk/product/tippmann-recon-aeg-carbine-14-5-tan/
https://www.defconairsoft.co.uk/product/gg-co2-gas-gm1903-a3-springfield-real-wood/
https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/a-and-k-m249-mk1-skeleton-stock-and-sound-drum-magazine?pv=8502
https://www.socomtactical.net/50-off-all-viper-products/
https://jdairsoft.net/cart/sale/ics-cxp-concept-rifle-black
https://jdairsoft.net/cart/sale/np-delta-series-ak21
https://jdairsoft.net/cart/sale/12/a-k-stw-sr15-urx-iii
https://jdairsoft.net/cart/sale/24/vism-gen3-mark-iii-tactical-3-9x40-scope-p4-sniper1
https://jdairsoft.net/cart/sale/36/nuprol-romeo-recon-alpha
https://www.bztactical.co.uk/e-l-ak104-pmc-e-aeg-platinum
https://extremeairsoft.co.uk/shop/new-just-in/snap-bangers-thunder-snap-box-of-15-bangs/
 

My "stuff" was getting everywhere, so I picked up a cheap secondhand bookcase and turned it into a Airsoft storage unit 🙂 

Nice one, just ordered some through them. Discount code REGLAZE10 gets 10% off as well. 👍

If by any chance anyone reading this wants to switch to glasses to combat the fogging from goggles but held back due to using prescription glasses under your goggles, I recently went for some glasses that came with an insert for prescription lens and was expecting to pay through the nose for the lens at vision express etc, but found a decent place online.
 
Here's the topic I posted about it.
 

So this is the solution I went with if anyone is interested. £12.95 from Amazon, and seems pretty okay with a nice layer of firm padding.
I'm pointing to where the pacemaker is located in the second picture.
 

Usual rule of thumb is 1 mah for each BB. so a 650 mah cell will shoot around 650 BB's
 
Normal days skirmish is around 3000 BB's at our sites

You should have got a parts diagram with the pistol that should give you some idea.
To me it looks like a simple philips screw inside, take out the silver arm, and it should come off. Looks like a spring and ball-bearing in there as well, so just be careful they don't ping-fuckit into oblivion.

You should have got a parts diagram with the pistol that should give you some idea.
To me it looks like a simple philips screw inside, take out the silver arm, and it should come off. Looks like a spring and ball-bearing in there as well, so just be careful they don't ping-fuckit into oblivion.