Hatchet

I dunno, we're still talking about hideous damage to people's eyes, so...

Interesting. Price seems to be 59,800 - £388, but then I guess there's all the usual fees, etc. Basing that on this video at 36 min. No auto translate yet so I didn't get a lot else, but there was a lot of talk about the battery.

Well, since he hasn't grasped the difference between slander and libel, I think you'll be okay.

Another vote for OPs Tactical here. I don't have anything in multicam, but I've had various other patterns and items from them in the past (shorts, shirts, direct action trousers, helmet covers) and it's all been really well put together and is still going strong.

The feed system is the only way to have the magazine in the "correct" place. The other way is to use a feed blade like on the TM L96, but you risk jams/scratching the bb's I guess. This one you have to preload those 19 and then use the pressure from the remaining ones to feed through. Pros and cons I guess. If you need as compact as possible you're just going to have to suck it up and save the cash for the SRS. I have that and the VSR and the SRS sees all the action because it's just so convenient to be able to stick in a normal gun case (as well as the manoeuvrability in the field).

You could just wait and take a look at Silverback's new TAC-41. If it's built anything like the SRS it should be good and I think the RRP is looking at about $350..

Just rewatching the Youtube video and there are translations available now, which is worth a look if you're interested in that sort of thing. Here's my interpretation of YouTube's autotranslate. Original TM MP5 released in 1992 NGRS weighs 3.1kg, close to real weight (standard 1.9kg) Not sure on the frame, maybe die cast with some aluminium (trying to avoid front heavy) Furniture is all FRP Talks more technically about the paintwork, Magazine construction - how the hicaps are welded differently to lowcaps and will be cheaper. Mags are proprietary Fact that this is based on a 90's build MP5 rather than current Doesn't have 14mm threads, but a 3 lug adapter with a 14mm ccw thread is included so you can then mount whatever to it. New fire select system - magnetic with mosfet & FCU fitted. Voltage regulation and jam detection. Active braking based on sector gear detection. Auto-sleep to avoid battery drain. 300g recoil weight. Marui man loves the HK slap. 2 position stock, with very little wobble. Hop unit is behind ejection port (which reciprocates during firing) Method of attaching handguard is the same as the real MP5! (so no wobble and maybe opens options to use real parts) Release in summer, price still undecided.

A Top Dead Centre mod is where you have the pressure on the hop nub applied directly from above to avoid any misapplication of pressure (which can sometimes be caused with systems that use a side system to set hop, such as the VSR or the MK23). In most cases the hop nub is designed to be applied from the top, but changing the way this is done can give improvements. For example, on M4 hops or on AK style hops the recoil of the gearbox is on the same plane as the adjustment arm, which can lead to self-adjusting hop. This is why rotary systems like those found on the G3 can be more likely to keep their setting. In some cases you can just use a shim/washer to allow you to tighten things down a bit more, but changing it to a TDC application (using a grub screw or similar) can also help. Some guns are easier to do this to than others. With the MP5, the hop adjustment lever is exposed on the side of the gun as well as being on the same plane as the recoil, so it's not the greatest design. This can be mitigated to an extent by cutting the adjustment lever down and shimming. Both of these are easy to do and just require removal of the front handguard. A TDC mod on the MP5 would be technically challenging (unless you have crafting/3D printing skills or don't mind messing with the externals) Everything else on the MP5 is a pain to do because you have to disassemble the entire gun every time (including things like changing the hop rubber, etc). It also may depend on the specific brand - I think the Classic Army B&T models may have used rotary hop.

"Longer barrels are always faster"? Surely the cylinder is a factor here? If you're running an optimally volumed cylinder for your barrel, sticking a longer one on isn't going to magically make it faster. (Although, yes, if you're not it can). If you're moving to a barrel that short I'd expect you'd need to swap from a 3/4 cylinder to a 1/2 ported cylinder, depending on what you had in there before, what weight of ammo you're using, etc.

There are different versions I believe, which confuses matters. For example the AT2000 takes 4x AA's, but the AT2000R takes a single rechargeable battery and charges off a USB port. And then you have different outer shells for them just to further add to it. My 2000R is about 66mm which is about half the internal length of the suppressor.

Can't see why it wouldn't. I've got the version that uses the KAC style suppressor and the tracer sits in the front with a big spring behind it holding it in place.

So, anyone getting more details from this? From observation/listening all I got was Custom recoil gearbox with "M system" trigger (mosfet & fire control) - Safe, semi, 3rd burst, full auto fire group Not sure on magazine compatibility but there is a new mag - there was a fair amount of talk on this section so maybe it's backwards compatible but doesn't support all the features or maybe adapter needed. Upper receiver? Aluminium? Need to use the cocking handle/HK slap to reload on empty mags Hop unit probably under ejection port (couldn't see if it was rotary or not) Front handguard not all creaky (not sure if compatible with RS parts) Ejection port reciprocates during firing. Almost certainly to be followed later with other variants...

I have the Marui (well, it used to be a Marui) and the hop is one of the things I dislike about it most. The other being the fact you have to fully disassemble the gun to do *anything* to it. I have often considered TDCing it, but you'd presumably have to go in through the top receiver and the charging handle/spring. I have avoided doing so because I'd undoubtedly balls it up. You can obviously just set the hop and then remove the adjustment lever, but you still have the fundamental problem of the hop adjustment arm being on the same axis as the recoil (unlike rotary hops). I think the Classic Army B&T uses a rotary hop so that might be an option or go with another brand, but that's not technically "fixing" yours... It is a slight mystery to me why nobody has made some sort of 3D printed solution to this (ala the MK23 hop). Guess MP5's just not that popular.

Well, I thought I was making progress after some reshimming (which legitimately seemed ok to me before, but perhaps something shifted or I got muddled after the 200th takedown and put a shim back wrong). Fired out of the box beautifully. Got it to site and... jams, crunchy noise, etc. Currently in small pieces, again. Updates on state of mosfet to follow once I get the rest of the gun working again. F*** my entire life tbh.

Well now, I don't know that I'm saying that. I mean, a dirty little MP5k GBB? Tempting... I'm just thinking that, for me, if I had to pick just one then it's probably going to be the NGRS because... gas mags, full auto, winter, etc. If I had a local that was all kill house then expect a very different set of priorities...

In theory, the box mag is wired direct to the battery and also has a signal wire. It's got a manual feed button on the side (mostly for priming) but should fire when the trigger is pulled (per the diagram). I assumed this indicated a mosfet, however see previous comments about this not being my area. I also have no idea on the other info, I'm just going based on what the light flash diagnostics on the NanoHard are suggesting. I don't have any way to actually check the current that's being pulled. However, given the box mag wiring is about 20/22AWG I feel like it's not going to be that much.

It's the 16th April isn't it, not the 1st? Just checking... I can't see it on TM's site, annoyingly. However, I'm kind of undecided which I'd prefer. Probably a recoil, but I'm kind of expecting a GBB. The original AEG MP5 is so old now. I'm also reading far too much into a grainy picture, but that polymer grip looks way nicer than the old shiny ABS.

That's useful, thanks. I am out of my depth on this one. Well, Nanohard arrived and... same issue. Mnngh. I have removed the box mag for testing and currently am still getting cut outs. There does seem to be some diagnostics on the nanohard suggest low voltage/High Resistance and current too high. I'm just fully charging up a battery to double check, since the ones I've been using previously should be good, but I want to rule it out. The problem is still there without the box mag but not as pronounced (i.e. I can do a 15-20 second burst before it cuts out). I'm wondering if the draw from the box mag motor is enough to throw it off/trigger low voltage warning but I'm just speculating. Have made sure to set battery monitoring for correct voltage and will retest with fresh battery. Incidentally, is the wiring in the 2nd picture actually possible? I'm assuming the box mag also has its own mosfet within it and was trying to get my head round 2 mosfets being driven by the same signal wire.

Update on this. Got a response from gate that said basically "your wiring looks dodgy". This is probably largely due to it also being wired to run a box mag, per the second diagram attached. Running this setup didn't seem to work. I got no additional signal from the signal wire and my electronics is weak so I didn't understand why. Ultimately, there was a lot of rebuilding/rewiring anyway and during the course of this I changed the signal wire setup to dual wire on the switch rather than single + power. This was largely so I could swap out mosfet at a later date if I wanted. Unfortunately the X-ASR is single signal wire only, so I switched to an old Gate one from the parts box. Which also doesn't work reliably. Probably the same one I used last time. In a last throw of the dice I've ordered a NanoHard which definitely is supposed to deal with trigger bounce. I can only guess that might be the issue since the 249 uses a microswitch. If it's not that, perhaps the box mag is interfering somehow, but since it's now wired directly off the motor contacts so it triggers when that does (and isn't involved with the signal wires at all), I'm not sure why that would have an effect. Much head scratching. Kind of hoping this will resolve it.

On my TM MK23 mags I load from the bottom, angled top down, by hand. This ensures the correct stacking of the bb's to fit maximum amount in and that they'll all feed correctly. There's definitely a "right" way to stack them on these because the follower is slanted. I guess if I were using a GBB and in a hurry I might do it with a speedloader, but that's about the only time I would.

Are there any decent polymer/FRP ones? Or to branch out, best polymer body generally? Silverback SRS is great, anything similar for AEGS (not GBBs otherwise that Aug is meant to be pretty good)?

Original is here if anyone wants to peruse it. Seems crazy that indoor gyms can be open, but outdoor airsoft events can't. I wonder if the intention was to prevent indoor venues running.

Useful to know, thanks. I've emailed Gate and we'll see what they have to say. I have to say, if this is my 2nd bad experience with them I can't imagine dropping serious cash onto something like a Titan. I'm hoping a friend might be able to find the aforementioned Cheetah that's not being used so I can swap to that as it was always ultra reliable, but I'll update if there's any progress with this.