Hatchet

Interesting. Slightly tempted to get one, since I assume the spare parts to convert your existing A5 won't be out for an age. Battery space should be better, but kind of hard to tell until we can get a look inside the handguard. I wonder if they've come up with an improved retention method for the handguard pins... Translation for the video doesn't seem to be up yet, but it looks like just a standard suppressor rather than a tracer unit or anything fancy. I did think perhaps they'd make the full stock version first, but I guess not. Any ideas on the accessories? Looks like a mag clamp (not a high cap as I first thought), rail mount, micro red dot and possibly dedicated mount for that.

It's a good thing really, otherwise you'd miss the hilarity of shooting people in the hand as they're standing there pointing at your position...

I'm with the "No Russian" crowd, but if it helps settle the drama any I've got a spare Bullgear 249 hop I can sort you out with.

I feel like there's probably at least a few other criteria here (left/right handed shooter, ease of use, weight, etc.), but you can do all that with an SRS for £400 new plus the cost of a spring change. Which is all of 30 seconds work. Yes, the stock hop is fiddly to set, but if you get that done right you can run it forever without breaking sears, etc. Something that can't be said for the VSR. I suspect the TAC-41 is similar. Ultimately you're still going to end up buying newer shinier parts in a futile quest for more accuracy/range/performance because who doesn't, but you don't *have* to. No experience with buying pre-upgraded/SSG10, the (apparent) simplicity of bolt gun upgrades always leads me to do them myself. And that's never gone terribly wrong...

It's not impossible. They use a copy of the Motorola HT port, just a different screw size (source). You can also get U94 style PTT's for them (although these cost more than the radio. I think the main selling point of the UV-9R's is the alleged water resistance, rather than the increased power, which was largely exaggerated in an analysis I read (don't have it to hand). Of course, you could achieve the same by putting it in a plastic bag, so...

It is, perhaps obviously, a hard no from me. I don't consider myself to be a particularly sensitive snowflake and I recognise the arguments that the world has always been in conflict so whatever loadout you pick you risk offending someone. The whole "Good/Evil is a matter of perspective and the truth is in the middle" only holds to a certain degree and right now, the lines seem pretty well defined. However, at this exact moment in time, we're talking about running around playing pew pew in the woods and laughing about it whilst 80 year old grannies are getting a crash course in using AKs in a futile attempt to stop Russian tanks and shelling from destroying and stealing their country. I don't know, but I just don't have the stomach for it. Suspension of disbelief is about making it seem real, and it's already more real than I'd like. Not to mention that, well, you know how people can be and there's guaranteed to be some clown on site who thinks its all hilarious or some marshall that thinks setting themed objectives around the current conflict is a good idea. As someone pointed out, the devs of This War of Mine are donating profits from sales at the moment to Ukraine Red Cross and there are *still* people on the comments berating them for it and saying they should "stay out of politics". I'd hate to think I'd accidentally gone and developed some empathy this late in the day, but it's kind of looking that way and I know I'd have a shit day out if I went. So, each to their own. If you're out this weekend have fun, but I think I'll give it a miss for now.

Looks possible, according to this video.

Gate don't recommend brushless motors with their mosfets/FCU's. Some reports of damage being caused to either or both components (possibly caused by active braking, but unclear). The brushless motors don't have a mosfet exactly but they do have an electronic control unit to make the motor work. I'm suggesting that, given that position and that the Marui is impossible to get spares for right now, is it worth risking buggering it up? The stock motor's an EG1000, so you should be able to pull anything you need to for UK limits without any problem. Might be fine of course. But, given the cost of the gun and the motor...

Think you have to twist it backwards almost then pull out. There's a full takedown video on Youtube that should help.

No. I probably wouldn't either on the basis that the stock response was fine (for me) as it was and not sure how their proprietary mosfet (you know, the one with no spares right now) might interact with a Warfet.. Happy for someone else to test it with theirs though.

I thought it was for the issue Camelbak (and have successfully mounted one), but I guess could be used more multiple things.

I'd say Lambda Defence MK48, but I'm guessing you mean battle rifles rather than just anything in that calibre. Silverback MDR... whenever it eventually gets released. Otherwise, Classic army do a 13" and 10" SR25 - http://classicarmyshop.com/proline/sr-25andm110/m110-10-keymod.html - slightly proprietary hop though (unsurprisingly).

I got mine, but it took raising a Paypal claim to do it. Belt quality looks decent, but would not recommend the company.

This can be a bit tight, but is doable without tools (at least on mine, and the stock tube groove sounds the same). For me, activate rear of lever until it's flat against the stock. Then, get fingers underneath front of lever (so, in front of the pin) and pull down. This will pull the pin further down and should give enough clearance (but can require a bit of pull strength in the fingers). No need to use tools or knock out pins, etc.

+1 on the Molotow, at least the black (which is the only one I've used). I've had some success with various other randoms found on the shelf at b&q, like Rustoleum. Their stove and BBQ black paint came up a lovely flat black and they had some sort of textured brown that gave a passable impression of rust for a post-apoc gun. Worth a look to see what's there if you're passing. Avoids the postage too.

This was not so much "this isn't worth the money", but more "I would have cropped the thumbnail images myself..." https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/20892-flyyee-gen-1-pc-m-l/

I bought a legit ops core bump years ago because nothing else fitted (this was pre-clones though). Had I been able to, I would have been quite happy running a skate helmet or similar, but being proportioned like the Mekon put paid to that. If it's any consolation, they're decent (even though it's just plastic and foam) and should last well, as well as having good adjustment. Mine's taken a few knocks here and there but is still good - helmet cover helps keep it in good shape and deadens noise from rubbing against stuff. Kind of wish I'd been wearing it a few weeks ago when I got mild concussion from running into a low door (in a woods!)...

Airlab sell that in short sections I believe. https://airlab.parts/collections/electronics/products/airlab-wire-super-thin-mppe Or you can just pick up a reel of it from RS or similar, but you'll have to pay a chunk up front (which is what I did). Just depends how much rewiring you see yourself doing.

I have one and there's essentially two different approaches to this. The first is the A10 brrrrrrrrrrrt approach, which works well in short bursts and for putting down a line of death that people can't run through. For me, mid 20's and higher is probably this. The other is the continual rain of long bursts onto a target, and I think around 18rps is good for this. As mentioned above it becomes about the length of time you can sustain the fire and how much ammo you go through. And of course, as usual there's the usual considerations around overkill. If you're using long bursts from a high ROF gun into either crowds or unsighted (because you're shooting into bushes/a window) the chances of someone getting grumpy because they've taken 50 rounds in the face before you've come off the trigger tend to be higher. I've set mine up for the slightly slower fire rate, but admit to being tempted by HPA purely for the ability to be able vary ROF (not power) based on the situation on the day.

First outing today. I only ran it for half a day, rate of fire was exactly where I wanted it to be, used maybe 600mah of a 7.4. Didn't do a huge amount of sustained fire, mostly bursts, but no issues to report. Now, just need to sort the accuracy, but that's probably not something I can blame on the motor.

That does seem a bit slow based on the method you outlined. I tried mine today with 18:1 and 24:1 and have opted for the 24:1 which in theory is just over 17rps. It *feels* about right (not very scientific, but I don't have RPS function on my chrono). The speed on 18:1's was good but too fast for sustained support, although worked well for bursts. Hoping to get it out over the weekend and see how it goes. I guess I could always ramp it up if I needed to with an 11.1 which I think puts me about 25rps.

Yup, agreed. That's the intention (although, arguably not the rule), but it's well known that people will get stuff, wear it, and then return. Your process was a step further than mine. I did look at the RPM, but didn't then work out based on ratios. Instead I worked it out based on the claimed RPM of the motor I was already using and roughly how fast that fired in my setup at the moment. How'd you arrive at that conclusion? I need to work out what 24:1 might give me... - the extra complication I have here is not only do I not want to fire that fast, but I'm not certain the box mag will keep up. And I can't make the box mag feed faster because it draws from the gun, so if I up the box mag motor to 11.1... hilarity ensues. Quoted for truth TBH. At some point this thread might even return to how the motor performs instead of customer service...

You've missed the section underneath that that specifically covers distance selling. "Online, mail and telephone order customers have the right to cancel their order for a limited time even if the goods are not faulty. Sales of this kind are known as ‘distance selling’. You must offer a refund to customers if they’ve told you within 14 days of receiving their goods that they want to cancel. They have another 14 days to return the goods once they’ve told you. You must refund the customer within 14 days of receiving the goods back. They do not have to provide a reason." Again, don't think this is correct (unless you can cite sources?). If I buy a laptop, it can still be returned once I've fired it up, had a play with it and gone "oh no, doesn't work for me". If I'd broken it during installation this would be a different matter. Perhaps so. I shouldn't have to though. I guess it's that old question of how much energy do I want to invest chasing this down.