Hatchet

+1 on the Molotow, at least the black (which is the only one I've used). I've had some success with various other randoms found on the shelf at b&q, like Rustoleum. Their stove and BBQ black paint came up a lovely flat black and they had some sort of textured brown that gave a passable impression of rust for a post-apoc gun. Worth a look to see what's there if you're passing. Avoids the postage too.

This was not so much "this isn't worth the money", but more "I would have cropped the thumbnail images myself..." https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/20892-flyyee-gen-1-pc-m-l/

I bought a legit ops core bump years ago because nothing else fitted (this was pre-clones though). Had I been able to, I would have been quite happy running a skate helmet or similar, but being proportioned like the Mekon put paid to that. If it's any consolation, they're decent (even though it's just plastic and foam) and should last well, as well as having good adjustment. Mine's taken a few knocks here and there but is still good - helmet cover helps keep it in good shape and deadens noise from rubbing against stuff. Kind of wish I'd been wearing it a few weeks ago when I got mild concussion from running into a low door (in a woods!)...

Airlab sell that in short sections I believe. https://airlab.parts/collections/electronics/products/airlab-wire-super-thin-mppe Or you can just pick up a reel of it from RS or similar, but you'll have to pay a chunk up front (which is what I did). Just depends how much rewiring you see yourself doing.

I have one and there's essentially two different approaches to this. The first is the A10 brrrrrrrrrrrt approach, which works well in short bursts and for putting down a line of death that people can't run through. For me, mid 20's and higher is probably this. The other is the continual rain of long bursts onto a target, and I think around 18rps is good for this. As mentioned above it becomes about the length of time you can sustain the fire and how much ammo you go through. And of course, as usual there's the usual considerations around overkill. If you're using long bursts from a high ROF gun into either crowds or unsighted (because you're shooting into bushes/a window) the chances of someone getting grumpy because they've taken 50 rounds in the face before you've come off the trigger tend to be higher. I've set mine up for the slightly slower fire rate, but admit to being tempted by HPA purely for the ability to be able vary ROF (not power) based on the situation on the day.

First outing today. I only ran it for half a day, rate of fire was exactly where I wanted it to be, used maybe 600mah of a 7.4. Didn't do a huge amount of sustained fire, mostly bursts, but no issues to report. Now, just need to sort the accuracy, but that's probably not something I can blame on the motor.

That does seem a bit slow based on the method you outlined. I tried mine today with 18:1 and 24:1 and have opted for the 24:1 which in theory is just over 17rps. It *feels* about right (not very scientific, but I don't have RPS function on my chrono). The speed on 18:1's was good but too fast for sustained support, although worked well for bursts. Hoping to get it out over the weekend and see how it goes. I guess I could always ramp it up if I needed to with an 11.1 which I think puts me about 25rps.

Yup, agreed. That's the intention (although, arguably not the rule), but it's well known that people will get stuff, wear it, and then return. Your process was a step further than mine. I did look at the RPM, but didn't then work out based on ratios. Instead I worked it out based on the claimed RPM of the motor I was already using and roughly how fast that fired in my setup at the moment. How'd you arrive at that conclusion? I need to work out what 24:1 might give me... - the extra complication I have here is not only do I not want to fire that fast, but I'm not certain the box mag will keep up. And I can't make the box mag feed faster because it draws from the gun, so if I up the box mag motor to 11.1... hilarity ensues. Quoted for truth TBH. At some point this thread might even return to how the motor performs instead of customer service...

You've missed the section underneath that that specifically covers distance selling. "Online, mail and telephone order customers have the right to cancel their order for a limited time even if the goods are not faulty. Sales of this kind are known as ‘distance selling’. You must offer a refund to customers if they’ve told you within 14 days of receiving their goods that they want to cancel. They have another 14 days to return the goods once they’ve told you. You must refund the customer within 14 days of receiving the goods back. They do not have to provide a reason." Again, don't think this is correct (unless you can cite sources?). If I buy a laptop, it can still be returned once I've fired it up, had a play with it and gone "oh no, doesn't work for me". If I'd broken it during installation this would be a different matter. Perhaps so. I shouldn't have to though. I guess it's that old question of how much energy do I want to invest chasing this down.

My belief was, under CCR you had 14 days from receipt to effectively just change your mind for no reason. Limitations on this include something that deteriorates quickly – like flowers or food an item that was personalised or custom-made anything from a private individual rather than a business a CD, DVD or software, if the seal is broken Pierced earrings and other items that are unhygienic to resell but that doesn't seem to cover motors. Same way you can return clothes, etc. I'd imagine there's some stipulations on them being undamaged. Putting that aside, it should be relatively easy to test them on return to see that they are, indeed, still working. They've probably had more usage going through initial QC... Additionally, they give a year's warranty on it which makes you think it's pretty robust... I did, but it was medium which isn't up to the job (to be fair, they mention recommending Red as a minimum, but I was using generic threadlock described as "medium"). In the meantime I have ordered some Green. Which does mean I'll need a heat gun if I ever want to take it apart again.

Well, not much to report. I am trying to see if I can get it swapped for a Standard speed instead, but apparently they (Warhead) won't do swaps if it is "used". This seems strange given the videos found on that there Youtube promoting how robust/indestructible they are. I could understand if it was sent back on fire with all the tabs snapped off, etc. but would have thought that's pretty easy to test. Don't really want to go down the route of Consumer Contract Regulations (formerly DSR), so I'm hoping they'll have a change of heart. I see the new Ronin they've built switches out the connectors for pre-wired, which looks like a way of avoiding the tab snapping problem, but don't think it would work at all on a 249 sadly.

Urgh, kind of wish I'd read this earlier. I'm about 3 weeks into an order that was "in stock", so we shall see what happens.

I've started using those as well. Went with XT60's for ages, but I find deans easier to re-use. The Amass ones are easier to grip but they're also easier to pull apart anyway (but still hold well). I still heat shrink the connectors though. My soldering skills are massively crap too (as in, "how is the table on fire and the connectors have melted but the fucking solder is still a solid!"), but an adjustable temp one has helped a bit.

I'll add Reaper's Airsoft to the list. You will need to use subtitles and translate (unless you're a German speaker), but the level of depth is really impressive. Pistol reviews regularly an hour long, etc.

I had the same with my Guarder one (which looks identical). As far as I can work out, the length the flashhider sticks out beyond the lugs is probably off a few mm. It might be possible to file down the front of the flashhider to get it to fit, but that's not something I fancy doing. From the disassembly video I watched, the flashhider and front sight are a one piece, so if you significantly arse it up, that's what needs replacing. Internally, my suppressor has a metal disc that prevents it being pushed too far on. I suspect this isn't very thick and nothing good will come of trying to thin this down.

Filed down the gearbox, fitted it ok. I have the high speed (which is the middle of the range). It is ridiculously fast even on standard gears and I should probably have gone for the standard. Well, it was fast, until the grub screw on the pinion unscrewed and started gouging the gearbox shell... Back to the drawing board, and also the shops to get green loctite

Was it Redcap again? (I may be showing my age here)

And, whilst you don't get quite the same benefit as you would with a semi-spamming build, having a motor that runs longer without getting hot and is more power efficient isn't a bad thing. In all honesty, it's curiosity rather than a specific need that's prompted me to get one, but we're here now, so...

Well, it turns out it doesn't fit the M249. The position of the spade connectors relative to the back of the bell housing (I might be making these words up) is different and it won't clear the gearbox shell. Fortunately as I was being super careful for once, I discovered this without snapping anything off. There's not a huge amount in it, so it might work with some filing of the gearbox. A job for the weekend I suspect. One benefit I have enjoyed already is not having all my screws/tools/belt buckles fly towards it whilst installing like they do with the current motor.

As said, the PTS EPS gives you a lot of options. You can get a 7.4v 2900 35c brick in there, or pretty much any stick type battery (will fit 11.1v titan too).

What he said. I usually run a couple of HSGI's on the belt and top up from chest rig. The emdom MM dump pouch has always worked way better for me than the standard flappy ones. If you really don't want to go down that route then HSGI's do still meet the original objective of being easy enough to put mags back into, but it's an expensive way to do things and will take up a lot more real estate.

From what they're saying the performance on the BASE won't be as good as the Black, but still better than standard brushed. I guess it's comparable to the upgrade from HDD on PC's to SSD's. Even the slow SATA SSD's are better than the HDDs. I'm not entirely sold on the Titan batteries. Some articles seem to suggest they're not up to the job. But if they work for you, fair enough. I always favour the largest brick with the highest C I can get in there, but Ak's... not a lot of choices I guess.

As an alternative to ammo boxes, these Bat Safes might be worth considering. I've got one, although obviously I've not put it to the test (and hope never to have to).

This video on it is very interesting, particularly the amp draw and energy efficiency parts. Spoliers, 5800 shots out of an 1000mah battery on the Warhead, vs 1000 on a Lonex A1...