Hatchet

Looks possible, according to this video.

Gate don't recommend brushless motors with their mosfets/FCU's. Some reports of damage being caused to either or both components (possibly caused by active braking, but unclear). The brushless motors don't have a mosfet exactly but they do have an electronic control unit to make the motor work. I'm suggesting that, given that position and that the Marui is impossible to get spares for right now, is it worth risking buggering it up? The stock motor's an EG1000, so you should be able to pull anything you need to for UK limits without any problem. Might be fine of course. But, given the cost of the gun and the motor...

Think you have to twist it backwards almost then pull out. There's a full takedown video on Youtube that should help.

No. I probably wouldn't either on the basis that the stock response was fine (for me) as it was and not sure how their proprietary mosfet (you know, the one with no spares right now) might interact with a Warfet.. Happy for someone else to test it with theirs though.

I thought it was for the issue Camelbak (and have successfully mounted one), but I guess could be used more multiple things.

I'd say Lambda Defence MK48, but I'm guessing you mean battle rifles rather than just anything in that calibre. Silverback MDR... whenever it eventually gets released. Otherwise, Classic army do a 13" and 10" SR25 - http://classicarmyshop.com/proline/sr-25andm110/m110-10-keymod.html - slightly proprietary hop though (unsurprisingly).

I got mine, but it took raising a Paypal claim to do it. Belt quality looks decent, but would not recommend the company.

This can be a bit tight, but is doable without tools (at least on mine, and the stock tube groove sounds the same). For me, activate rear of lever until it's flat against the stock. Then, get fingers underneath front of lever (so, in front of the pin) and pull down. This will pull the pin further down and should give enough clearance (but can require a bit of pull strength in the fingers). No need to use tools or knock out pins, etc.

+1 on the Molotow, at least the black (which is the only one I've used). I've had some success with various other randoms found on the shelf at b&q, like Rustoleum. Their stove and BBQ black paint came up a lovely flat black and they had some sort of textured brown that gave a passable impression of rust for a post-apoc gun. Worth a look to see what's there if you're passing. Avoids the postage too.

This was not so much "this isn't worth the money", but more "I would have cropped the thumbnail images myself..." https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/20892-flyyee-gen-1-pc-m-l/

I bought a legit ops core bump years ago because nothing else fitted (this was pre-clones though). Had I been able to, I would have been quite happy running a skate helmet or similar, but being proportioned like the Mekon put paid to that. If it's any consolation, they're decent (even though it's just plastic and foam) and should last well, as well as having good adjustment. Mine's taken a few knocks here and there but is still good - helmet cover helps keep it in good shape and deadens noise from rubbing against stuff. Kind of wish I'd been wearing it a few weeks ago when I got mild concussion from running into a low door (in a woods!)...

Airlab sell that in short sections I believe. https://airlab.parts/collections/electronics/products/airlab-wire-super-thin-mppe Or you can just pick up a reel of it from RS or similar, but you'll have to pay a chunk up front (which is what I did). Just depends how much rewiring you see yourself doing.

I have one and there's essentially two different approaches to this. The first is the A10 brrrrrrrrrrrt approach, which works well in short bursts and for putting down a line of death that people can't run through. For me, mid 20's and higher is probably this. The other is the continual rain of long bursts onto a target, and I think around 18rps is good for this. As mentioned above it becomes about the length of time you can sustain the fire and how much ammo you go through. And of course, as usual there's the usual considerations around overkill. If you're using long bursts from a high ROF gun into either crowds or unsighted (because you're shooting into bushes/a window) the chances of someone getting grumpy because they've taken 50 rounds in the face before you've come off the trigger tend to be higher. I've set mine up for the slightly slower fire rate, but admit to being tempted by HPA purely for the ability to be able vary ROF (not power) based on the situation on the day.

First outing today. I only ran it for half a day, rate of fire was exactly where I wanted it to be, used maybe 600mah of a 7.4. Didn't do a huge amount of sustained fire, mostly bursts, but no issues to report. Now, just need to sort the accuracy, but that's probably not something I can blame on the motor.

That does seem a bit slow based on the method you outlined. I tried mine today with 18:1 and 24:1 and have opted for the 24:1 which in theory is just over 17rps. It *feels* about right (not very scientific, but I don't have RPS function on my chrono). The speed on 18:1's was good but too fast for sustained support, although worked well for bursts. Hoping to get it out over the weekend and see how it goes. I guess I could always ramp it up if I needed to with an 11.1 which I think puts me about 25rps.

Yup, agreed. That's the intention (although, arguably not the rule), but it's well known that people will get stuff, wear it, and then return. Your process was a step further than mine. I did look at the RPM, but didn't then work out based on ratios. Instead I worked it out based on the claimed RPM of the motor I was already using and roughly how fast that fired in my setup at the moment. How'd you arrive at that conclusion? I need to work out what 24:1 might give me... - the extra complication I have here is not only do I not want to fire that fast, but I'm not certain the box mag will keep up. And I can't make the box mag feed faster because it draws from the gun, so if I up the box mag motor to 11.1... hilarity ensues. Quoted for truth TBH. At some point this thread might even return to how the motor performs instead of customer service...

You've missed the section underneath that that specifically covers distance selling. "Online, mail and telephone order customers have the right to cancel their order for a limited time even if the goods are not faulty. Sales of this kind are known as ‘distance selling’. You must offer a refund to customers if they’ve told you within 14 days of receiving their goods that they want to cancel. They have another 14 days to return the goods once they’ve told you. You must refund the customer within 14 days of receiving the goods back. They do not have to provide a reason." Again, don't think this is correct (unless you can cite sources?). If I buy a laptop, it can still be returned once I've fired it up, had a play with it and gone "oh no, doesn't work for me". If I'd broken it during installation this would be a different matter. Perhaps so. I shouldn't have to though. I guess it's that old question of how much energy do I want to invest chasing this down.

My belief was, under CCR you had 14 days from receipt to effectively just change your mind for no reason. Limitations on this include something that deteriorates quickly – like flowers or food an item that was personalised or custom-made anything from a private individual rather than a business a CD, DVD or software, if the seal is broken Pierced earrings and other items that are unhygienic to resell but that doesn't seem to cover motors. Same way you can return clothes, etc. I'd imagine there's some stipulations on them being undamaged. Putting that aside, it should be relatively easy to test them on return to see that they are, indeed, still working. They've probably had more usage going through initial QC... Additionally, they give a year's warranty on it which makes you think it's pretty robust... I did, but it was medium which isn't up to the job (to be fair, they mention recommending Red as a minimum, but I was using generic threadlock described as "medium"). In the meantime I have ordered some Green. Which does mean I'll need a heat gun if I ever want to take it apart again.

Well, not much to report. I am trying to see if I can get it swapped for a Standard speed instead, but apparently they (Warhead) won't do swaps if it is "used". This seems strange given the videos found on that there Youtube promoting how robust/indestructible they are. I could understand if it was sent back on fire with all the tabs snapped off, etc. but would have thought that's pretty easy to test. Don't really want to go down the route of Consumer Contract Regulations (formerly DSR), so I'm hoping they'll have a change of heart. I see the new Ronin they've built switches out the connectors for pre-wired, which looks like a way of avoiding the tab snapping problem, but don't think it would work at all on a 249 sadly.

Urgh, kind of wish I'd read this earlier. I'm about 3 weeks into an order that was "in stock", so we shall see what happens.

I've started using those as well. Went with XT60's for ages, but I find deans easier to re-use. The Amass ones are easier to grip but they're also easier to pull apart anyway (but still hold well). I still heat shrink the connectors though. My soldering skills are massively crap too (as in, "how is the table on fire and the connectors have melted but the fucking solder is still a solid!"), but an adjustable temp one has helped a bit.

I'll add Reaper's Airsoft to the list. You will need to use subtitles and translate (unless you're a German speaker), but the level of depth is really impressive. Pistol reviews regularly an hour long, etc.

I had the same with my Guarder one (which looks identical). As far as I can work out, the length the flashhider sticks out beyond the lugs is probably off a few mm. It might be possible to file down the front of the flashhider to get it to fit, but that's not something I fancy doing. From the disassembly video I watched, the flashhider and front sight are a one piece, so if you significantly arse it up, that's what needs replacing. Internally, my suppressor has a metal disc that prevents it being pushed too far on. I suspect this isn't very thick and nothing good will come of trying to thin this down.