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If all the parts you received are in those photos then you are short a few to be sure. I can't see selectors and their associated screws or the bolt release catch, though the bolt catch isn't required for function. The inner barrel also looks a tad long. As for was it good price; only you can know, as it looks like you have an unfinished project or someone's I don't know what I'm doing, on your hands. If the titan is in there and functional then you wouldnt be out of pocket if you parted it out I think. Having said that you have the parts which aren't pictured then you have the makings of a potentially good rif, if you can put it together.

Hello, welcome and you ccantbbe any old than the rest of us.

If you should be tell if there is a gate unit in the 308, its fairly obvious. If you have time and inclination a photo of the 308 pats laid out I could most likely tell if something is missing as I've stripped mine a good few times.

If the 308 internals which operate the stop on empty function have gone completely (gearbox gone) then its a little harder decision and it would come down to which felt better in the hand. Though I'd be tempted to go or the mod 2 for something shorter for cqb sites.

I know a chap who started playing with strobe and then sacked it off as its not much use in a practical sense. A weapon light with a momentary switch is what he uses now. I have always used a light with a momentary switch which can be used to push positions and corners but goes dark instantly.

I'd keep the 308 and the cyma. One stops on empty and runs a dmr caliber magazine. Ticks two boxes for me, giving access to some site dmr rules if wanted and it stops on in empty. Cyma AK, its a ak, why wouldn't you keep it. Prk, as much as I like rhe vityaz 9mm the prk isn't it and as much as like kwa feel, they dropped the stop on empty to put gate mosfets in.

Function wise mine was great. The only issue I had was finding an npas that fit, but that years ago, in the end I built up a new nozzle for cqb. I did come across some people who had issues with miss feeding but I know kwa changed the feed lips on the mags and there's a producer which makes single feed lips for the magazines as well.

Start with your ht leads, give them a once over with some wd40 or other moisture displacement compound. If the outers start to break down then they become susceptible to higher resistance due to moisture.

If it was me it would a copy of the finance paperwork, the only way I could get a setup like this. I'd love an nvg setup so I'm just green with envy.

I know you change your mind under distance selling rules but I think you have to returning it in an unused condition, if you have used it, then it would be warranty on faulty if it is faulty. Faulty doesn't cover user error/assembly error unfortunately unless the instructions are wrong.

The softened edges look good.

It's a good start, I wouldn't go any harder, it's much easier to a bit more than a bit less. I'd be tempted to give it an oil wash and wipe over to soften the contrasts. It's used and worked but maintained when possible.

Video from a shop reads as, use a smaller voltage so we have less hassle dealing with any warranty issue. If the manufacturer states use 11.1v lipo then use it. The motor will draw what it needs and you should use a battery that can supply that, using an under rated lipo next to tor face isnt a great idea. I use a 3s 1050 80c battery in my 308 and it stays cool and by the end of the day it's nearly back to storage voltage. In fact it's a much easier life for the battery than strapped to one of my fpv quad.

There's quite a few sites around Manchester, but I don't know any that allow under 13s to play, due to insurance I believe, best bet would be to find some local sites that you fancy and contact them directly.

Like you I use custom molded when I'm riding, and before that I used foams, I've always preferred helmets with lots of venting and the wind noise is killer long term. I do love the bang and booming of pyro and I'm surprised how many people I see playing that don't use hearing protection, I treat mine like eye pro. Once it's gone, it's gone kind of thinking. On the peltor front though I certain recommend the gel cups, they are so much better than the foam.

If your thinking about hearing protection then do it, either in or over ear. I've tried the in ear units and they work though fit is tricky, for me i couldnt get it to hold and seal easily, and wasn't as good as it could be when it did sit so it would work loose then eventually fall out. In the end I when with the over the head, peltor sporttac, and i also got two aux cables, one mono, lives hooked into my rpc and mic. And the other I use for work plugged into my phone for audio books and they are great.

Have a look at the arp 556, as Mr. No face mentioned its an arp internals but 556 mag well. There are two versions now, one alloy one polymer, other than the bodies they are the same.

I use the placard systems so for different loadouts I just rip of the front of my rig off and change it, usually I keep the appropriate panel in or on the case for the matching rif. If i had the dcs already I'd look for a placard adaptor. Tactical uk and hueys are a good place to start.

Nice setup fella. I do love my was rpc. The velcro arm bands, how wide are they?

I don't know the biro mod directly but I'd guess that it would refer to using the biro to pop the pins out of the connector block and swap them over. The issue with airsoft and rc is that they both use tamyia connectors but the position of the red and black pins are reversed in the airsoft batteries when compared to trafional rc, I have no adea why. If you can solder it's easier to sack of tamiya altogether for a better connector, deans are a common choice, I prefer xt style. If your not confident in doing that; use something thing to depress the pin retaining part inside the tamiya connector on the charger and swap the black and red around to match the airsoft battery, assuming you dont intend to use the tamiya charger for any other non airsoft batteries

Depending on the paint and the material you might need a primer or adhesion promoter. The tearing sounds like the paint might have been too thick and has skinned, with the other dry but softer material under the skin. Prep is always the key to success with paint; clean old coating, key and degrease, primer/adhesion layer, paint in thin layers so it doesn't skin and prevent cure. I'd clean it all off and have another go, possibly change paints to something more recognised, krylon etc.

I'd have hoped to have seen better from a retailer as well known as Eagle 6. Especially when it comes to the flippant response to the comment. If they knew that the had produced it legally then why would you publicly mock a potential customer and put of other potential customers with that attitude and conduct. If they have produced it not knowing definitely that it is legal its extremely irresponsible for them to have posted the video on a public platform, considering that ignorance of law is not a defence and their lively hood as a business would be at stake.

Bang on. Turn down a face a hair, get some finer shims, dress the gearbox surface, or bind the gears.

With that little bit of clarification of your intended meanings, to high being too tight, it could/would be cause of the issues you are having. A little play is nearly always better than binding, and a good tech being forced into shimming too tight, I doubt it, they should have found another way unless there is something odd going on in the gear box. Either open it up yourself or take it somewhere else unless you have a vested interest in the tech you've used.

How is the holster being carried? As dumb as it may sound I have great success using a maxpediton hook and loop concealed carry holder on my chest, or a double stanag pouch with either a bungee or flap. https://heinnie.com/maxpedition-sneak-universal-holster-insert