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Bang on. Turn down a face a hair, get some finer shims, dress the gearbox surface, or bind the gears.

With that little bit of clarification of your intended meanings, to high being too tight, it could/would be cause of the issues you are having. A little play is nearly always better than binding, and a good tech being forced into shimming too tight, I doubt it, they should have found another way unless there is something odd going on in the gear box. Either open it up yourself or take it somewhere else unless you have a vested interest in the tech you've used.

How is the holster being carried? As dumb as it may sound I have great success using a maxpediton hook and loop concealed carry holder on my chest, or a double stanag pouch with either a bungee or flap. https://heinnie.com/maxpedition-sneak-universal-holster-insert

I've found the muc off anti fog to be very good and I'd be tempted to drill small holes in the helmet for increased ventilation, more heat you can take away from the lense the better.

Sold day at anzio for the battlesim on day. Objectives rolled out and wave reinforcement type spawns worked well. Other than the odd few trying to make up their own rules as they went along, including a bang bang rule, it was great.

Flip the fire selector until the mosfet enters the setup section then use the trigger to set desired setting within the category you are in. Then flip the fire selector again, just one and only to the other fire mode, not safe and the mosfet should change its led colour to the new category colour. Again its trigger to run through the settings/levels. Regards the fire mode. That is a little trickier as it is the setting you're in when the mosfet enters setup mode that gets changed. I found starting in semi and toggling from there meant semi was selected. Then starting from auto meant by the time I'd done the required flips to enter setup it was back on auto and it was the auto setting that was selected.

Id start by droping the gearbox out of the receiver and then offering up the motor mounted in the grip. If you have a window in the gearbox watch how the motor meets the gear. something is too tight of not sitting where it should. If it were the spring being too heavy id expect excessive motor heat before horrible noise.

It would depend on the stock you are running as some have more length beyond the locking pin. So it would most likely be time for tape measure and then checking the length of the batteries you want to use.

You could build that mockup you've drawn out of a g&g 308. It uses a v2 gearbox so it's really easy to work with and the extra length of the receiver is delt with by using a longer length of outer barrel inside the upper.

As a secondary to the t10 in game. I'd say it's too big, it's an smg sized primary and I'd guess the only difference between the t6 and mod 1 would be the lower for different magazines. If you wanted an smg as in indoor smg sized piece then the t6 would share mags with the t10. Though I'd also guess that the t6 is only 4" shorter than the t10, if the T relates to series and the number is linked the the barrel length.

That's a good point, my brain is mush today, it's just not picking these things up.

I hadn't really thought about pme on auto. I'm a semi auto kind of player as I've been using gbbrs mainly so it didn't pop into my head. I still have either find a new motor that's better with 3s and doesn't over spin or buy more lipos then.

I like that, the pattern on the grip, love it.

The whine is a post cycle completion winding down noise but only on 3s, more voltage being more ram etc, so i'd guess that the motor is coasting to a halt after being spun up rather than stopping once the power cuts. It already has an electronic trigger so I'm not worried about contacts burning. It has a "high torque" motor as standard but as we all know non labeled high torque can questionable, so I either have to buy more 2s packs just for the backup or fund a motor that likes 3s I think.

It's the correct format battery for a crane stock, one cell each side and one in the buffer tube, but that size cell is likely to be too square to fit into the spaces. I found the 1450 sized cells are about right for the slim type stock but if you want to run larger batteries or non airsoft batteries something like a pts stock is a good shout. I run a pts stock and run tattu 1050mah 85c 3s packs or 1450 25c crane types. If you purchased through amazon you could try a refund/return but if not then its a sell it on or change stock.

Morning all. I need your help in making a decision in regards to a back up aeg that needs some love. I have a g36 which has been a faithful backup aeg for along time and other than an anti reversal latch failing it's been solid. The batteries that I had been using for it have finally had their day and have so much internal resistance they aren't able to supply the draw required and barely hold a charge 24hrs. However the predicament is that I now only use 11.1v lipo in main aegs and using an 11.1 in the g36 sends the motors whining post cycle like its been sent spinning into space. So I need to find a balance, do I buy more batteries for the g36 that only gets occasional use and have to care for them, or swap out for a motor that likes 3s lipo and share batteries? Motor options seem a little limited at the moment, so it might be an xt high torque 28tpa being used or an shs 16tpa.

The bat safe boxes are really good. I use one for charging larger batteries indoors, rc and fpv along with airsoft means all shapes and sizes of lipos. Having seen larger packs go up it makes sense.

Used guide is two thirds of retail, ish. some things hold more value than others and condition plays a significant part. The tech who mentioned not chasing fps is on the right track. I've seen stock TMs perform better than cheaper rifs with all but the kitchen sink thrown at them. With the TM you know all the parts go together well and you should be able to lift a .28g bb consistently, though you time to target will be a little longer, although that matters less at closer ranges. the higher fps does mean faster but it doesn't mean control. in terms of what to go for I'd suggest you try and get hands on with rifs you fancy and go from there. If you like the feel TM recoil and function then rails, grips, stocks etc can be changed without performance changes.

You could try an e clip too. It's a three quarters of a ring with three tab tooth parts to bind with. I find they last a bit longer when they are removed and then replaced.

Visually the delta recon is the most similar but if you want an m4 opposed to 416, the mk18. The kwa has harder kick than the tm, and will have higher power out of the box, though it might still need a rubber change for our climate. The tm has the stop on empty function whe using the correct magazines.

"Smile on your face...." that's right in the money as tonwhat counts. I'd so second the steering clear of vfc unless you want to git something and start again internally.

Kwa used to have the last round stop function and recoil but they drooped the cutoff feature to free up the space to put the electronic triggers and mosfets into their gearbox design. The g&g has the stop function but it is only in the tr16 g2 models, which off the top of my head, are the 308 variants and the knights sr series. They don't have the recoil function though in those ranges. If recoil is a must have then I'd look at adding the stop function to the kwa, it's not the hardest thing to do but would require patience and opening up the gearbox; fitting a leviathan mosfet, setting it up, possibly an external control if you wanted that or having somebody do it for you. It would be something a few hundred quid to do.

Of the rifs you listed in the opening post last round stop is only a feature of the tokoyo marui and the gbl. It can be added electronically to the other using a leviathan mosfet and external input system to the rif and setting it up. Doing this would require that gearbox is opened and doing so often voids any form of warranty, if you wanted one. I mention it as it seems you would like the same sort of setup I use which is very a gas system style but would like the ease of an aeg. I use a g&g tr16 308 as I moved back to aegs from gas rifs for a slightly easier setup, now I'm balancing life and get to play less often, but some of the g&g rifs that use the new type g2 gearbox have the stop on empty and now I have that on an aeg I wouldn't be looking to not have it at any point.

Another vote for skyrc chargers, I've been using one for ages. I also use a idst charger which is even better but it requires an external dc supply.