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More than anything I'd think long and hard before commiting to anything, you've kinda gone for 0 to 100 extremely quickly. I've seen many do the same when it comes to HPA, see a (heavy editted) video of a RIF doing really well and leap into 'must have now' mode. I wouldn't want to tread that fine line of discussing others financial situation/commitments but please think long on hard on how much 'need' there is, I think many of us have fallen victim to impulse buys what with lockdown and everything. This isn't intended as a 'go away noob' reply, so apologies if that's how comes across. I just know how easy it is for that craving for a shiny new thing can take hold, so please have a good think before rushing in. Reapers seem to be a massive gamble whichever version it is, some just don't seem to perform very well. I don't know the in's and outs of why, my pressumption is largely down to feeding/being closed bolt but I can't say for sure. Ultimately it just removes of the option of full auto/burst should you want it, it's aimed at the 'milsim' crowd more than it is for your general skirmish day. As for the electronics side of things, anything anyone here would be able to interject is relatively moot unfortunately. They're swapping out the electronics on the 'Forged Series' compared to what is in the what is now known as 'Billet Series' which the owners on here have. Regretably you won't really know the ins and outs until units are in folks hands, I suspect initially you're going to see a lot of folks not having a great time trying to get the Phoenix hop playing ball nicely. Putting that hop unit in them from stock is certainly a brave decision. Edit: Jesus I've just seen the price on the 'Forged Series', definitely struggling to see what is justifying that price difference versus the 'Billet Series'.

The biggest element to consider when looking at moving to HPA is the cost of your HPA set up itself as much as it is the RIFs. First and foremost you need to consider how you’re filling your tanks. The cost of this can vary depending on the sites you tend to play at and if they offer refills. Assuming they don’t a scuba tank of some sort which filling adapters is generally recommended, assuming you have a dive shop locally that can fill your scuba tank. The cost of your tank(s), line, regulator and ‘filling station’ will vary depending on what exactly to get, but in my experience/the experience of others I know which have done the same those 4 components will tend to run you £350-£450. So not a small expense by any means, and that’s before you’ve got any toys for that set up to power. Add in a £600 MTW, batteries and mags... you’re cruising over the £1000 mark. As far as the MTW itself I’d tend to recommend the Inferno, especially to those new to HPA. Having spent a lot of time in various groups Reapers seem to be a lot more fussy especially when you come to wanting to swap out hop up components. The ‘MTW builder’ is essentially there if you know exactly what you want, and exactly what you want isn’t available from a ‘stock’ configuration. Say for instance you want a 10.3” outer barrel, but a 7” rail and a CO2 stock installed by the folks at Wolverine. They’re very easy RIFs to work on, I’d tend to advise just picking up one of the standard ones and figure out what you want to change from there. Length of the outer barrel/rail is largely down to your personal preference. Upgrades wise, as most will advise you, run it stock for a few games and if you feel you ‘need’ more out of it you can start messing around with the inner barrel and hop components.

I tend to see PayPal fees as somewhat of a 50/50 split given the outcome of them being paid protects both parties. Though generally the perception is that it’s protection for the buyer. With that being said I list everything with an ‘all in’ price because I just feel it saves everyone the headache. Though as mentioned on multiple occasions I do feel at times that the actual cost of PayPal fees is dramatically inflated to aid in the justification of what could be seen as a ‘high price’.

Aye, I’ve set it... at least I think I have. Truthfully the process seems significantly more awkward setting it for CO2 because you don’t have the gauge on the reg, and aren’t certain that the hop is set correctly. Don’t have the benefit of ‘somewhere between 60-80 will get me where I need to be’. Ahh, that makes a lot of sense. Hadn’t considered how much easier it makes thing when you have multiple RIF you may want to use during a day. Aye, compared to many I’ve had before it’s a really easy front end to take off... historically I absolutely hate barrel nuts but no issues at all here. It’s just an extra thing you need to which makes testing take much longer. Likewise, I’ve got an EdGI dual bore in my SRS which is lovely but I don’t feel I need a barrel that fancy in this. At least not until I decide I want to DMR it (which I imagine I will, just not any time soon). I’ve also never done anything with rhop, I tend to go for durable, well performing buckings and a CNC arm because it makes life easy when it comes to maintenance. I guess there is no harm in picking up an S+ for the time being, it’s one of those barrels that will come in handy for a variety of builds should I want to swap it out for something different on the MTW.

Very much appreciate the in depth reply! I received my MTW a few days ago and I'm absolutely enamoured by it, beautful bit of kit! Slapped the 33g stock on it, because I can't help myself. Seems well made and I've had no immediate issues following the installation. Only thing of note is that I don't seem to be getting anywhere near 500 shots out a canister, most falling closer to the 300 mark. I suspect that's down to either the dwell needing adjustment or the canisters themselves not being particularly great. I'll probably look into it more at some point but I imagine the CO2 will see more use during Spring/Summer, sticking to air seems like a significantly better option for this time of year... assuming we're even able to get back out on the fields any time soon. Definitely going to be picking up an Aero following the updated version release, as the name would suggest it's such a modular platform that I'd like to have all the options available me! Running through the different fire mode settings was certainly a costly mistake to make, probably should stick to doing that with air hooked up ?‍♂️. I've got the 'bog standard' Balystik reg that most seem to start off with at present and haven't really seen much of a reason to replace it performance wise. As mentioned in my initial post I don't really use full auto at all and I don't have the RPS set high enough to feel the refresh rate is ever struggling. Though the SFR mini and Storm might be something I look closer at if I want to take a bit of the bulk away. So the recommendation is much appreciated and taken on board. Mine came (second hand) with a Maple Leaf barrel (I believe a 6.01, it's not a Crazy Jet) and a Maxx hop unit installed. I haven't been able to do any range testing of yet but I suspect I'll be either slapping the stock hop unit back in or picking up a Phoenix. More for the convenience of barrel cleaning than anything else, though it's certainly not hard to do it's a bit of a blag having to remove the front end anytime I want to change/clean the barrel and/or hop bucking. I've ordered both the '1.0' and '2.0' arms from Silent along with the Maxx spacer, again just so I have all the options available to me. Then it's just trying to make sense of the various bucking, nub and barrel recommendations. My initial plan was to pick up a TNT S+ barrel, a pack of the 60 degree TNT buckings and run those alongside the stock chamber with the 1.0 CNC arm but I'll happily take advice if there is a wiser route to take (assuming it's worthwhile information, mine has an Inferno Gen 2 in it). I'd certainly rather spend more now than buy twice. Truthfully part of that confusion on my end comes from the G&G green buckings which seem to be considered as very good, but from what I can tell there are two different types of G&G green buckings... and I'm finding it hard to figure out which one is the correct one. Aye, that's pretty much my experience. Had zero issues with purchasing something in stock, but any enquiries go entirely unanswered whether they be related to availability or general advice.

Words to live by!

Seemingly unjustifiably high price aside, I cannot fathom what would have anyone leave their phone number open to all on a public forum. While I'm here, time to be that guy again. Classifieds rules police back at it again ? 'Also on the way is a Steel Buffer/Recoil Kit and Adjustment Tool which should be arriving shortly.' Forum Classifieds Rule Number 6: 'You must have access to the item that you're selling. You cannot be selling items that you do not own, are not able to post immediately or being sold on the behalf of someone else.' Such a strange correlation between 'questionable ads' and 'not following classifieds rules'. Who'da thunk it.

Not to be 'that guy'... while absolutely being 'that guy'. It's also a breach of the forum's classifieds rules. '7. You must include a picture of every item that you are selling. It is not acceptable to just show a box or use a stock images. Pictures must be visible in the listing (whilst we do allow links to other forums, simply placing a link instead of a picture is not permitted).' While aware the rules can be an inconvenience, they exist for a reason.

Many of my fondest airsofting memories are from Urban Assault (RAF Upwood). Certainly helped by the fact is was fairly local to me but it had a superb mix of CQB and more open outdoor spaces, and this was helped by general good use of the site as a whole during games. I think the latter was the ‘special sauce’ for me. There are sites that are a somewhat similar layout (Anzio Camp being an example that I’ve been to relatively recently), but I often feel the buildings are a bit overused throughout the day. Insisting they are used by having objectives in them, or points to defend rather than allowing the site as a whole to breathe a bit and allow players to use different parts of it. The site definitely gradually go worse as more of it fell into disrepair, but it’s certainly the site that got me hooked. I believe it only closed it’s doors relatively recently but I hadn’t been in years. Though they likely wouldn’t remember me at all, Frank (owner of Firesupport?) and Ian (I believe the ‘head marshall’ through most of my time attending, but I could be wrong) were both always willing to help when I was a young ‘un initially getting into the game. The more I think about, the more influential that site was on my continued interest in airsoft on the whole.

I'd assumed the bullet points were a fun diagram of BBs flight during a quick tap semi burst.

Aye, I've looked a few times. They have the 10" version in stock currently and I've nearly 'pulled the trigger' a few times but their pricing on the RIFs themselves is significantly higher than High Pressure (works out about £100 more before shipping). Pricing on parts seems roughly the same after conversion, so I'll heed your recommendation and head there for those. A tad weird that the RIFs themselves have such a large price jump!

Aye, never seem to answer the phone and I think I've tried every form of text based communication to get in touch with them... all fruitless. I begrudge giving them my hobby pennies truth be told... but I'm yet to find any other options over here. The line only tended to bother me because I don't tend to use slings because I like to have full freedom of movement and the ability to quickly lean my rif up against a tree/walk if I want to dash round a corner with my pistol, or pass it to a team mate when clambering through windows so on and so forth. Likely because I don't use slings even having played with a line for a few years I still forgot to disconnect it on ocassion. As I said in my intial post, not a deal breaker... but felt worthwhile exploring the options that are there. Unless others chime in I may well go with the CO2 stock for starters, with plans of grabbing the aero when the new version releases. I can also switch back to the line if I'm struggling to get the CO2 running as hoped! Though as mentioned at the top of this post, I'm someone reluctant to leave not a small amount of money with a company that can't really be arsed with customer service... doesn't build a huge amount of confidence that I'd be keep up to date with what going on.

Much appreciated, I'd suspected as much in terms of them making some tweaks because it's been forever since it'd be in stock on the Wolverine website. As for the CO2, the main 'issue' I've seen is from people using the 12g version and just not setting the puncture depth correctly with other issues seeming to stem from incorrect installation or just a lack of understanding of what CO2 is and isn't capable of doing consistently.\ Fortunately(?) I'm not in a mad rush, given where I'm located and the fact it looks like national lockdown mk2 is upon us I imagine I'm largely done with attending games for the rest of the year so I guess I'll set my sights on getting an order in (I imagine through High Pressure Airsoft, though I've been less than impressed by there correspondence or lack there of) so I'm at least in the queue. I guess that's the benefit of having somewhat of a monopoly on the HPA market over here as far as I can tell. Cheers, Alex

Hi folks, No idea if anyone will be able to assist, mainly looking for opinions. The TLDR is I'm picking one of these puppies up shortly so I have a nice quiet, reliable option to play more aggressively with while dressed as a bush. I don't use full auto, but this won't be set up as a DMR... very much a 'I can't be bothered with minimum engagement distances today' set up. Likely going with the Inferno Gen 2 as the engine. I'm not new to HPA, it's pretty much all I've run for the past few years (mainly using Polarstar systems) but something I hadn't looked into before was ridding myself of the tank and line.. or the very least the line. Though certainly not a deal breaker, if I could remove the line from the equation I'd be pretty happy about it. So that leaves me looking at the CO2 wraith stocks (preference being the 33g, but if there is a notable reason to go with 12g I'm open to it) or the AERO stock. From what I can gather CO2 would require a bit more maintainence (I'm assuming keeping o-rings in shape would be it for the most part), and if you go with the 12g version you need to be sure you know what you're doing when setting depth. The 33g is essentially just acting as a small tank which simply screws into the regulator which is built into the stock. The AERO appears to essentially be just a regulator with shroud designed around it to take 13ci tanks, with the main downside being the looks (which I'm not particularly against, most of my stuff gets painted and covered in tape/scraps of material anyway). Does anyone have experiences with either, know of any notable additional pros/cons or have a personal preference either way? Really struggling to make a choice between the two, and wouldn't be shocked if I end up with both eventually. Just canvasing for opinions as there doesn't seem to be a large amount of information out there, especially in the case of the AERO... or I'm just not looking in the right places. Truth be told the post in here by @lukeB is probably the most useful information I've seen to date! Cheers, Alex

I design board games for a living, so suffice to say the dictionary definitions of words often get muddled up with ones I’ve defined in rulebooks to mean something else from time to time! Momentum is very much one of the worst offenders in this case.

That's the one! Seems entirely reasonable, I imagine it'd carry a bit nicer on an AK SU (apologies if this incurs the wrath of the AK Gods, I'm not really an 'AK guy') of some description but a glorious looking chunk of steel for sure.

Aye, those thicc boys really throw the balance off when you're adding a heap of weight that far from the natural 'pivot point' (there is probably an actual term for what I'm trying to say) when handling the RIF. I've found a noticeable difference in how unwieldly the DTSS suppressors feel when used with the G-Spec length barrel versus the 16" and 22" outer barrels. Pretty crazy how the same amount of weight can carry so differently depending on how far from your grip they are.

In my case it would see more use at the very least. Lovely looking bit of kit bud! That the one with the tracer unit in it?

Hahaha, preeeeeach! I’ve found the best way of clearing out those bits and bobs (outside of offering them up during a game day) is slinging them in as freebies to folks that purchase something similar/related from me. Bought some mag pouches? Take a free ‘cheapo’ utility pouch. Bought some mags? Take a free speedloader. So on and so forth, I’d much rather things get used than sit gathering dust until they go thrown out and end up in a land fill.

I'm much the same, I've been through the 'trying to replicate actual military personel' thing carrying a whole heap of extra weight and had a great time while doing so... but as I've got older the less I'm carrying on me the better. Going back to basics, so to speak, while having enough playing experience to know what I do and don't want to be lugging around all day has definitely made me enjoy the game more. Not to say there is a right way to do it, but that's the right way for me.

I think it's a problem born by folks feeling they can't turn up looking like they're new to the hobby (there is certainly a weird stigma around rentals), and feel it's much better to show up 'all gear, no idea'. The cost can ramp up so quickly, especially if you start to go outside of the things you actually need. I think we're all aware that the return on our investments won't tend to be great, two tone only exaggerates that further. It's an easy to hobby to get carried away with and end up some real financial problems from if you're not careful, listings like that one are a pretty painful reminder. If Mr Horus happens to read this, I suspect you'd be lucky to get half of what you paid for everything back... but your best bet of being able to clear the lot would be individual listings. At the very least separating out the RIF and the gear.

Glad for your sake that it's turned out to be a decent optic, but these high quality clones definitely make me less and less likely to purchase second hand optics! Feels like it's getting so much easier to get caught out if you're not 100% certain on what you're looking for to verify authenticity.