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I’ll take a mount that looks like a giraffe if it means a more comfortable shooting position any day of the week. I very much tend to land on function over fashion these days when it comes to attachments (and gear tbf) especially stuff that can take some of the burden off my neck, wrist and shoulders… those specifically because of previous injuries which still niggle at the tail end of game days. The main aches largely coming from hunching over to get a decent sight picture I suspect, it was definitely weird to adjust to at first but I’m not sure I could comfortably go back to absolute or lower 1/3 (the latter being my preference) at this point in time. My current all-time comfy height being a T1 repro on a Zenitco B-18 on an AKSU, just seems to match my proportions perfectly… but I say all this while aware that optics/optic height is very much a personal preference (and weirdly something I don’t think folks play around with enough to even realise how much more comfortable it could be). Speaking of which, finally got around to throwing a butt pad on the CAR stock… definitely an improvement in my case.

Aye, as I imagine said trend is largely down to folks around my age (30-40) having hankerings for RIFs (or firearms depending on where you’re based/what’s available to you) that closer match those which most took their fancy in various media growing up. That pondering aside, alongside liking the look of carry handles I’ve been really enjoying the height of the Unity mount… only downside being I’m not wild on how the Unity mount looks. At least not on with the various bits thrown on this. Looks far less out of place with your typical modern rails, at least IMO. And FWIW I’ve actually removed the irons from the Unity mount (front and rear) because despite the fact I don’t use them much… ohh boy was that headache inducing on the odd occasion I got to line them up. But yeah, purely from aesthetics I want a carry handle on there at some point… but I’ll certainly enjoy it as is until I can be arsed to source parts.

In firearms? It’ll be something to do with controlling the gasses (I’m certainly no expert but from my loose understand suppressors slow down the release of the gasses, which in turn reduces the sound). Can’t say I’ve seen ‘exhaust holes’, for lack of a better term, in the front of a suppressor because I’d imagine it largely defeats the object of using one but science is weird so that’s not to say they don’t exist. (General note that suppressors don’t only exist to reduce sound in RS shooting, it’s just general signature reduction so cutting down on fireballs out of the front and the like.) In airsoft? Nothing. As with most things to do with suppressors in airsoft (outside of a few NBB RIFs and HPA) it’s all for show/arbitrarily making a RIF longer, worse balanced and more unwieldy in all in search of looking cooler (subjective)… or trying to clone a particular RS firearm.

The follow up is how well versed are you with general maintenance, because you'll need to be regularly stripping a lubing with HPA. It's extremely dry i.e. no lube in it. The follow up being how's your knowledge of the AAP in terms of the parts which crap out quicker than others, do you know where to source them at prices you're willing to pay, in a time you're happy with and would you be comfortable fitting them in a safezone. Because they're all questions you should know the answer to, whether you HPA it or not really... but moreso if you HPA it (because lets be honest, you're going to be cranking that regulator as close to the limit as you can), and it's the only RIF you own. Follow up to those, insert all of the above questions in relation to RIF maintenance and apply it to your HPA kit (mags, regulator and tanks). Because if any of it fails on site and you don't either know how to fix it, or don't have what you need to repair it the words 'shit creek' and 'without paddle' come to mind. If you're set on going HPA with the AAP I'd strongly recommend going the Primary Airsoft adapter rather than tapping mags. Reloading tapped mags when it's your only RIF is a cumbersome mess and anyone who says otherwise is kidding themselves. You've already thrown realism out of the window, get an adapter and take full advantage of the speedsoft life you've chosen to live (but will deny till the end of days). It's additional cost, but it's vastly superior to tapping mags imo. Yes, I'm also fun at parties. Yes, these questions come from experience. Goes without saying I'd advise getting another RIF (seemingly an AEG) before jumping into HPA... but this very much feels like a 'convince me not to HPA' thread than it does a 'I'm genuinely stuck between these two options'. P.S. Brucey Bonus of Buzzkillington, bear in mind the changes you may need to make to your kit to ensure you're still carrying everything you want plus your HPA equipment. I ran HPA for about 3 years and threw in the towel earlier this year because I couldn't be bothered with always having to find somewhere for the tank to go on my person. That was a big deal for me, it's obviously much less of an issue for others.

[Insert joke about tickets to gun show here]

Mine is clothing, so I imagine even UPS would struggle to justify me having to fill out firearms paperwork for it... and the alleged delay said paperwork can cause 😅.

Unrelated to TG, but very much related to UPS. I ordered some bits not RIF related from Italy, turns out UPS are the courier. Dispatched on the 1st of June, arrived at Stanford-No-Hope on the 4th and outside of the sporadic import scans nothing has happened. So it would appear that the main issue, of which there have been many suggestions/hypothesis is entirely unrelated to the fact the parcels contain RIFs. Apologies if this only serves to make folks feel worse, but it's seemingly nothing to do with the fact it's airsoft stuff. UPS are just continuing to be worse than usual in general... and the bar was already pretty low.

This one is very much half done, eventually I’ll get around to sourcing the parts needed to get carry handle transplanted onto an MWS upper. I’ve landed at a point where I kinda of like it with a weird old meets new thing going on, though it’s very much destined for that Blood Diamond inspired setup. Need to decide if the ranger band at the front gets swapped out for sniper tape, and likely get less shit at doing things with paracord… aaaaand figure out if I’m going to throw any paint at it 🤷🏻‍♂️. My MWS in it’s current state.

I feel like there a decent degree of irony in the fact no one that partakes in streetwear is old enough to have any idea who that is without Googling it (and even then having no idea)... and courtesy of that comment I sudden need to rewatch Garth Marenghi's Darkplace. Goota love those niche British comedies.

You'll likely find this link useful when it comes to further purchases to complete the look 👀.

Got too carried away with rapid fire facepalming to actually give my own first hand experience. Used both the Super Nub and HSB in my first MWS, will be doing the same in my second. Only other thing I touch is throwing an NPAS in there as and when it's needed and if I decide to use a BAD lever (which is unlikely because I'm currently planning on doing a carry handle build with this one) I'll use a lightweight bolt stop plate to ensure the bolt continues to lock reliably. Outside of that, don't see a reason to change anything internally.

People presenting second hand information with a definitive result just grind my gears. The fella initially asking followed up with 'Will this happen?' and the chap answering literally ignored the question and just said toss it. No reason, no further explanation, no break down of the parts being used alongside the spacer. Nope, the answer to the question will this happen to me wassss... toss it. Superb, I don't know who's more daft of the pair. The one asking the questions and taking the first answer he got at face value, or the clown spouting second hand garbage (the answer is both).

Ahh the good ol' fashioned 'seen a guy'. You can always count on reliable information when it follows those 3 words.

Assuming it's the same as every other Marui with a front sight block I've ever had, you can just knock the pins out and remove the front sight block. Once that's off it's a simple case of unscrewing the barrel nut. Shouldn't be any need for a new outer barrel unless I'm wildly mistaken, unless the OP is simply more comfortable not having to do any of the aforementioned. Edit: I'm aware saying 'just' and 'simple case' is very easy to say when you've done it multiple times. But there are a decent portion of resources to guide through the removal of a front sight block out there.

Just don't get sucked into picking up your first RIF based on what they stock/is convenient/you can get the quickest. Since UKARA became a thing I've seen many get sucked down that hole, if the on site retailer happens to carry the thing you land on wanting then that's great... but don't let what ultimately boils down to impatience be a deciding factor.

Right you are, apologies, the note on the processing time is still worth bearing in mind fwiw. Question for the other old hands/those better at keeping an eye on changes... has that been reduced? I swear it was 3 months but I'm open to being entirely wrong.

As caveat which is largely nothing to do with the rest of the conversation, unless I'm wildly mistaken, your 3 games that qualify you for UKARA need to take palce across a 3 month period starting from the date of your first 'stamp'. That's not to say you can't play more than 3 games during that period simply that with your first game, judging by your previous post, being on June 6th the earliest you'll qualify for UKARA would be your third game on/after September 5th. Add in processing time, which will vary based on when the site submits your information to be added to the database and then you being added to said database essentially mean you aren't immediately UKARA'd upon getting your last stamp. Not a fan of being the bearer of bad news, but it's best you have accurate information. Silverlining, at least it gives you more time to consider your options 🤷‍♂️.

I don't think there is much left to the imagination with the phrasing, seems entirely honest. The grip is genuine ergo grip (as the photo suggests), the stock is the PTS licenced Magpul MOE and the rest of the external bits are repro parts. I'm usually all for going through a build with a heap of crap on/in it to figure out where the value is... but on this occasion I'm inclined to agree that it's just an MWS with all the good bits replaced. If I want a RIF that takes Glock mags I'll get a... checks notes... Glock. Not to say it's over priced, though I suspect it is in terms of a price it'll actually sell at, but that is one hell of a niche thing to try and sell for such a steep price.

You can’t really boil anything down to a general consensus. The 60-70% is more a starting point based on retail prices if you’re entirely clueless on a fair price (which is why that’ll often be the outcome of advice on appraisal threads), but it’s much more a guideline than anything else. Real steal, airsoft, brand new, used is all largely irrelevant. There are two things that really matter in all of it in regard to those terms which are condition and warranty (or lack thereof). The other things to consider being availability, desirability, whether the price is an ‘all in’ price (which based on previous experience of buying from Rob I believe they are, please correct me if I’m wrong @RMDavis) and whether the seller is looking to shift their wares quickly. The only reason I’d personally be considering adjusting any price down on would be on the K2, despite the fact that within theory the cerakoting would increase the value it makes it more niche so the chances of a quicker sale would likely see a lower price… if the seller doesn’t care about ‘shifting things quickly’ then that’s largely irrelevant. As noted at the top of this post, the 60-70% is a guideline not a rule and there are various things (mostly subjective) which can adjust that percentage up on down from either the seller or the buyers perspective. My perspective as a ‘bystander’ prices a fine, but I’d expect them to take a while to sell at those prices because they aren’t ‘hype items’ that all the cool folks on YouTube that airsofters tend to watch are running around using. Now, that’s not to say they’re bad by any stretch… they’re just not rammed down your throat like Magpul and BCM tend to be as a consumer in the UK picking up RS kit (and no, that’s not to say I think Magpul or BCM are bad either… simply better/more prolific marketing).

Read as: 'Cost more than I'd have liked to spend for what I'm using it for... which is why I'm selling it for about £25 more than you can get it elsewhere in the UK brand new.' Links for reference: FNX 45 (Yes it's currently out of stock, but they're restocked with Marui frequently enough to feel like even the most impatient can wait... though I may be wildly underestimating folks patience.) Suppressor Assuming the seller actually looks for advice regarding pricing, £130 all in is likely the region I'd be listing it for. Let that be a lesson in shopping around.

Specific components required for the electronics boards if memory serves. Much the same thing that stunted Wolverines intent of upscaling, and checks out given the Kythera has seemingly been easier (though not 'easy') to find in stock than any of their products which require the boards.

Only thing I'd note here is once you land on a grip you want it's worth doing a Google (usually grip name + UK i.e. Magpul K2 UK) to see if you can source one that's already in the country of a similar/cheaper price. The cheapest postage you can get from Brownells is £5-6 if memory serves so worth having a dig around before ordering straight from there. Whether you bother following this advice, well as always, that's entirely up to you.

Hard to tell precisely given the quality of the image provided but my best educated guess would be that it's a B5 Systems Type 23 P-Grip. If swapping out from the standard A2 most folks will run RS grips on GBBRs (because amongst other things, they don't have to be made wider to accomodate for a motor). Over here most RS grips will run your about £30. Popular ones with this sort of angle would be: Magpul K2 Magpul K2+ BCM Gunfighter Mod3 (my personal preference) Some variant of Ergo Grip Some variant of Hogue grip There are a few places that stock RS grips from various brands in the UK (Magpul being the easiest to find in my experience). Brownells have a wide variety, but if you haven't ordered from there in the past be aware that they 'drop ship' stuff over here from their stock in the US. Once it arrives over here every order I've made has been fulfilled by Parcelforce, usually a 24 hour service, turn around is usually 2-3 weeks though I have heard others say that's been a bit longer of late.

While aware it's splitting hairs it might be information that's useful to some, but it's nothing to do with 'accelerant'. Taking the 3 main Abbey gasses as an example 144a and Ultra Predator are essentially the exact same gas, it's just the pressure in the can is higher in Ultra Pred. If memory serves 'Brut Sniper gas' (or whatever that's branded these days) is different in terms of what's in it because it's got no lube in it so it's essentially just dry propane (maybe perfumed?), but the increase in power is all down to the pressure it's at in the can. Generally speaking the only thing that'll cause alterations in how powerful the various brands of green gas is, is the pressure in the can. Much the same reason as to why the FPS/joules goes up as the mags get hotter... and conversely goes down when colder. Heat makes the pressure go up, cold makes the pressure go down.

The plot thickens, I tend to go through somewhere between 800-1000 rounds on a game day (depending on the wheres and whys of the site) and I found the 35 round mags hard to adjust to... so suffice to say if you're regularly slinging 4 times that on your average day I dread to think how 'inconvenient' the platforms limitations would appear. FWIW I ended up selling my first MWS, immediately regretted it and recently picked up another (largely because I wasn't in a rush because playing wasn't on the cards, I'd have likely got another sooner had it been). The second time around I know it's more going to be my 'fun gnu', at least to start with. I still land on AEGs/RIFs that are powered by electricity (truthfully I've never understood why it's insisted that PTWs are referenced to separately, they're AEGs in my eyes... but that's for another time/place) are the best RIFs for skirmishing with on an overall balance of pros/cons... and yes that's including a few years using HPA, just not worth the faff for me in the end. But having now given GBBRs a fair shake I imagine I'll always have at least one in my collection, and the MWS seems as good as any for my needs as and when the time comes that I want to use it.