Adolf Hamster

thought the DE was standard 20mm just without most of the slots cut?

does come with 3 mags, and looks to be in pretty nice condition maybe mitigating factors?

imma not even ask what's going on with the other piston....... but yeah that's some pretty extreme taper. you might want a little edge chamfer to get the *ahem* protrusion to insert properly, but after that you want a nice tight fit between the (i swear to god this is proper engineering terminology) male and female components with plenty of stroke left (it's just getting worse isnt it) so build up the air cushion. tbh i'd be more of a mind to go for a shit-ton of sorbo. also inb4 all the kenneth williams impersonators: "ooh matron"

could be, sounds like the kind of part that really should be matched to it's cylinder head.

generally i'd assume pistol issuance in militaries falls into 2 broad categories: people who aren't really meant to be using them that much if at all (officers, cooks, engineers, tank crew etc, you can say the same for infantry sidearms too because they're meant to use a rifle) spoopy special forces people, who presumably will be so well practiced that using a dot or irons would be as much a matter of personal preference/particular mission as anything else. i cant tell if i should interpret that as you being really bad at hipfiring pistols or really good at throwing stuff

nope, it's a known thing. problem is unlike video games you gotta put some effort into finding the dot, which to my thinking defeats the purpose because by the time you use the irons or part of the slide to get lined up to then use the dot you've lost the time that the dot is supposed to be saving. for precise target shooting where you can hold the dot through multiple targets yeah it makes sense, but for airsoft purposes i tend to split pistol engagements into 2 categories: if they're close just instinct shoot (aka hip fire) if they're far use the irons. if they're too far to hit quickly by hip firing, and too close for you to take your time with the sights, then you'll have plenty of time on the walk back to respawn to consider that you should have been using a rifle at least with rifles you can use the stock to reliably hold your head in the right place, which is where the likes of the pistol carbine kits are useful.

Is it piston slap or barrel pop? Even if the action is silent there can still be a lot of noise from the barrel especially on a shorter barrel. Fortunately thats where airsoft suppressors do actually do a good job.

Now thats a loaded question. Edgi seem to be very highly regarded when it comes to top of the line, but you're talking bespoke craftsmanship. Personally i'm a big fan of the pdi stainless steel stuff pricey but good quality. For a more budget option the zci 6.02 stainless barrels @ak2m4 sells punch well above their pricetag for performance.

can only assume they're closed for the holidays, loads of places taking longer christmas breaks with covid.

i'll be honest, bolt guns aren't my thing, but the mosin was kinda fun, but one of those you gotta be in the right mood to activate hard mode kind of things. the only reason to go for a stronger spring is to increase the energy the gun is putting out (big big caveat that we're assuming good air-seal and getting all the oomph the spring has out the barrel) of course high speed you get premature engagement issues which a stronger spring will solve, however that can push you over the limit so you short-stroke which brings it back down (and also helps avoid pme as well), but in doing so you're limiting the cylinder volume you can use which for a given standard of accuracy limits the barrel length you can use (hence why many stupid high rof guns have short barrels). personally i'd focus on accuracy first, if you want a snappy trigger then a precocking mosfet like a warfet will do a hell of a lot without needing to change out half the bits in the gun. as for speed chasing in an aeg, well my tuppence on the matter is it's an exponentially expensive road that inevitably ends in surrendering your soul (and credit card) to the hpa devil. As @Alimcd says twenty is plenty, if you're sending 20-25 rounds per second downrange and the target isn't calling it then your problem is either you aint hitting shit, or the guy your shooting won't call shit. neither of these are problems having a gun spitting out double the amount of plastic is gonna solve.

as above the 60% rule generally for stuff that's in decent nick (which your's seem to be at least as far as those pics are concerned) that's assuming of course there aren't any notable internal bits (although for the most part "upgrades" don't add value unless it's particularly high ticket stuff like a titan)

once you get some experience under your belt it's not a risk, quite the opposite it gives you the power as you say to skip paying techs to do the work for you and means you can do things like buy secondhand with a lot more confidence knowing you have the capacity to deal with any hidden demons that the current owner might not even know are there. which is why i strongly advocate people learn their own tech work. what i'm referring to when i talk about risk is the learning curve, research only takes you so far and starting off without experience means you're gonna almost certainly make mistakes, and lots of them, hell i still make mistakes to this day. and jumping into trying your own tech work with no backup gun means any mistakes that show up on gameday (conveniently never at chrono and always when there's a target to be shooting at, it's just one of those universal laws) mean you're gonna have to pack up, go home and try to figure out what went wrong. which speaking from experience starts getting real tiresome the tenth time it's happened. best way to mitigate that risk is to have a backup of some sort, doesn't have to be a gun you own, could be a mate who has a spare you can borrow, or taking extra cash to rent a site gun etc. hell just a few months ago (during the glorious two weeks shooting we actually had this year) i had my primary go down because of a motor brush issue (brand new motor from a reputable company) and ended up having to run around all day with a mosin nagant i borrowed off a mate that had no front post. which was much more fun than trudging off home to try and sort things out. if practical range (ie shooting further than the other guy) is your goal then i'd have a look at these 2 threads: first one is basically a massive nerdfest that boils down to heavy bb's are better if you can hop them, second is some more generic info on gearbox work, for range/accuracy it's particularly worth looking at the stuff about airseal because there's no such thing as excessively good air seal. ^this, absolutely this, it's one of those tools that's so useful you forget other people might not have one.

In a technical sense yes the green is better, and i do preferr it for the super heavies, but it should also wear out faster (although hop rubbers are a wear component) Either colour should be just fine for launching .32's. The higher ratings are likely for hotter countries with higher limits, eg americans pushing all the joules in the desert

The barrel length alone isnt going to be an issue. For the .32 range either of my 2 standard reccommendations work (pdi w-hop 50deg or ml macaron tan+omega nub) The maple leaf would also be able to go heavier (ive used them for up to .48's at 1j) Slidey hop setting you can solve with a wee oring or such to give it a bit of friction.

Having seen inside one of their m4's i cant say i'd buy a kwa gun myself Because they managed to employ the only person outside of tm who saw an airsoft gun and thought "cool toy bruh, needs more proprietary parts and springs and shit"

See you answered your own statement there- that bloke already has the market cornered.

The moral of this story is: If you're gonna fuck up, fuck up when nobody important is looking

I only tell people to leave their first gat alone until they get a spare so i dont have to feel guilty when something inevitably goes wrong. I sure didnt follow rule 1 when i started so i'm well aware what comes next (hint: it's taking the walk of shame with a broken gat on a weekly basis) However, the op's research seems to be on the right lines. I cant say anything against any of those products on their own (because its all stuff i would be happy to run in my own guns) However as i often mention there's more than specific individual parts to getting a nice build, for example a snappy build with a baller ass barrel isnt going to do much if for example the air seal is terrible, or your using bad/lightweight ammo etc. @Alimcd has done a great job pointing out some of the common issues with the orion that typify this. With all that said, yes its a steep learning curve but only so much can be learned from the internet before you just gotta learn by doing it.

I kinda wish i didnt need to arc-weld a 3-phase rated switch together with about 6kv worth of back emf to have learned that lesson (or at least remembered back emf was a thing) And thats how hamster got banned from the electrical lab.......

have you read rule 1 of airsoft upgrading? because it's an important one.....

depends on your definition of "safe" assuming the gun hasn't had a shoddy downgrade meaning it's trying to spin a really underpowered spring then rof wise it should be fine without exploding. however, as @EDcase points out that's not the only element of longevity, and arcing out trigger contacts is gonna be a concern, granted the contacts will carbon up/arc out on any battery even nimh running 11.1 is gonna really cut down how long before you're gonna have to go in there and replace them.

afaik there is a "manufacture" clause in the vrca. it's a tricky one when it comes to the likes of secondhand sales if you're trying to figure out what you should be asking a defence for. the easy test is "will joe bloggs look at it and think gun" (or the man on the clapham omnibus argument as rogerborg puts it), which is why it still applies to guns that aren't technically based on a real gun (for example the aps uar) internal parts should be fine, gearboxes etc.

small strip of microfibre and one of them plastic cleaning rods most guns come with works very well. some folk use silicon, some use isopropyl, and i sit right in the middle and use nothing

Is that just white powder on the surface? If it is then thats bb residue, in part down the choice of ammo. Getting into the habit of cleaning the barrel before every game is worthwhile, one of the best "upgrades" you can do in terms of cost/difficulty to performance ratio

Watts his name