Adolf Hamster

the misleading adverts thing i'd direct you to mack's: which is a novel and often humorous way of approaching the problem. in terms of timewasters, unfortunately that's just the nature of the beast sometimes. any time i'm selling i don't set an ad to completed until the paypal transaction has actually gone through. although granted i don't know what the deal is if you're using the built in system as i've never used it properly.

if your first thoughts on playing with a semi-only rule is to ask "how do i bypass this as much as possible" then i fear you may have picked up the wrong impression of the hobby. whilst there isn't anything intrinsically wrong with hpa'd pistols, there is a certain subset of players (like, by the sounds of it, the one you met) who use those capabilities to excess, and a lot of folks ain't so keen on that, after all it's why auto is banned for most cqb sites in the first place. some compassion for the folk you're shooting at goes a long way.

not that i've spent any time looking, but can't say i've ever heard of it for pistols. the systems on rifles tend to operate electronically and whilst it's technically feasable to do in a pistol i've never heard of it done. assuming this is for a cqb environment based on the want of hpa in pistol form i'd wager a lot of sites wouldn't be so keen on a binary trigger anyway. you might be mistaking people using conventional triggers and just spamming the hell out of it, which is a great way to win friends on-site.

put it like this, i'm basically sold up on airsoft atm, but i haven't sold the odin because that would feel a bit too final....

it's a vicious cycle. they start out just uploading normal gameplay videos, at some point they encounter some natural conflict and upload it, video goes big, they see that ad money roll in and want more, so they start seeking out, or generating conflict to keep the clickbait rolling. that's a tricky one, for sure the game has that behavior occurring naturally, just part of it being a sport played by humans, certainly it doesn't make for good pr making it seem more common than it is. one thing i don't like is the whole business of promoting the use of pain as some sort of macho proving/karma delivery system, the idea that intentionally trying to hurt people more than necessary is an acceptable practice. yes bb hits will sting, it is an unavoidable side effect of having pews with a usable effective range, but that doesn't mean it's some kind of character flaw to dislike it and not want people intentionally aiming for sensitive areas or sending excessive amounts of plastic in the name of "correcting" some perceived injustice.

that's true. on the one hand, they are just responding to the audience, sadly "airsoft fights and flipouts compilation #420; cheetar shot in the ballz with crazy 500fps sniper (instant karma) (super painful) (he regretted it)" is gonna get you more views than "yeah went and played airsoft, it was fun playing but the footage doesn't really show it that well". it's drama dressed up as actual gameplay. seems to be a human thing, i mean if you look at regular television we could put anything on there and yet we so often choose to have violence and murder.

very, it basically makes loading midcaps easier than winding hicaps.

aye, although the little one looks like it could be outperformed by an airsoft pew if you tried hard enough. the intro though "i seriously have to ask if anyone has a pacemaker"

always amazes me how good the memories of these youtubers are. they can remember every shot they fired in every game and apply hit markers appropriately, even when you can't tell from the footage whether or not the bb found its mark. meanwhile mans can't remember what, or even if, he ate for breakfast.....

the motor engagement is sort-of a separate issue to shiming (although it rolls into the shimming process) think of it as doing the equivalent of adjusting the motor height (moving the pinion up/down) but for the bevel, there's a sweet spot where both will mesh nicely (the point where the motor sounds least labored and there's minimal gear noise). your normal shimming will put a limit on this as you can only make the bevel go so low before it interferes with the idler, and so high before there's bad overlap with the idler/its interfering with the upper half of the case. absolutely, you don't need zero play in the gears, you just need to be sure that they cant move into a position where they might interfere with the box/each other, and that there's a good overlap (ie one gears teeth aren't halfway off the other). hence when checking shimming, spinning the gears with the box at different angles to make sure that it's always spinning free.

wasn't there also something about see saws?

metal filings under the bevel i'd be taking a close look at the shimming between the sector and bevel, and the engagement of the pinion. usually the latter is pretty tricky to do by eye (when the box is in its assembled state) but you can tell by ear when it's running if the box is straining. one method is once you have the bevel shimmed as low as it can go to the left half (with all the shims in place on the top side too) is to take just the bevel and put it in the right half of the box and hold the motor in position to see if it's roughly at the right height. shimming the rest of the gears as low as possible gives the range of motion you've got to play with (eg if you've got 0.3mm under the bevel on the left side, you know you can't go lower than that) but you can go higher, which will help with the pinion engagement. it can take a few test-tries, put the box together with just the motor and gears and run it to get a feel for the noise/strain it's under with no load (same idea as putting the box together with just the gears and spinning them by hand to check they spin free) the piston is a bit tricker, one school of thought is that sort of damage is the sector gear naturally carving its own preferred engagement into the piston. when switching to the likes of steel rack pistons this can't be done, so you need to put some effort into making sure the aoe is smooth. setting aoe isn't particularly difficult. you can get shims from ak2m4 that space the piston back from the piston head. the aim is to get the first pickup tooth to mesh smoothly with the sector gear (as a general rule i aim to have the face of the piston tooth and sector tooth meeting such that the full area is contacted). it should never require more than 1 tooth removed and in the majority of cases half a tooth is enough (i tend to buy the shs 14.5 tooth pistons for this reason). one of luke's more recent vids (i forget which one) has a good point about carving the back of the second tooth at an angle, to give clearance whilst also preserving as much of the second tooth as possible to catch the second tooth of the sector. the way to check it is to have just the sector gear and piston/cylinder assembly in the gun (sans-spring), push the piston forward by hand and roll the sector around to pull it back, you'll feel if it's not picking it up smoothly. although bear in mind if there's any soft components in the cylinder (eg a mushroom piston head) then the piston might be slightly further forward when under spring tension. where folk tend to go wrong with aoe is "correcting" guns that don't need corrected, or overcorrecting by shoving 1/4" of sorbothane in the cylinder regardless of how far back the piston actually needs to go.

going by his other thread it's not a k?

i mean it works, but the thing that immediately jumps to my mind when seeing that is "hmmm fogging"

it shouldn't need the handguard pulled, just pop the front body pin and the whole upper receiver, barrel and handguard should slide forward off the gun as one complete assembly. that is, i'm assuming the gun is stock, or functionally close enough to stock. to be fair, luke's a tech, it's not in his best interests to teach people to do the job they could be paying him to do.

generally the vast majority of airsoft ar derivatives follow a very similar process for pulling the gearbox: pull front body pin, slide off upper (may require some fiddling of the charging handle to get it to shift) remove stock and unscrew the central bolt holding it onto the gearbox, remove stock tube and free the wiring (there may be different ways of getting the wiring through depending on the particular stock) remove baseplate from the grip, pull contacts from motor and take the motor out, the motor should come out relatively easily or maybe with a bit of wiggling. remove screws from inside of the grip and remove the grip, freeing the wiring in the process remove mag release (method will depend on the particular setup, some are screws, some you push through and unwind) remove rear body pin (it may have a circlip) and tap out the smaller mid-pin check for any bolt-catch related components, some guns need these removed to have enough clearance for the box, some won't have anything box should now be free to be wiggled up and out of the receiver, if it's binding change the selector to safe/semi at least as a general guideline, each step may have slight variations on what is/isn't needed.

maybe dirt/grease on the sensors for the sector gear? one of the issues with optical mosfets is you gotta be more sparing of grease than a normal box.

this, we accept that 2-tone is a necessary evil to allow our hobby to continue, and as long as you don't do it to anything rare/nice (ie not commonly available) nobody is going to care.

taofledermaus? theyre the only ones afaik in modern times who've had access to og gyrogets and more importantly the ammo. although afaik there is someone working on doing a modern repro. yeah that's gonna be an interesting video. tbh though, there's still quite aways to go before this becomes practical as a replacement for good ol' gunpowder. no doubt regardless of how fast/slow development happens anything that launches projectiles at that rate will be receiving the banhammer for anywhere outside of america.

lets face it i'm sure somewhere would let that thing pass chrono...... also inb4 someone tries to fire a gyrojet round out of one.....

what ammo? typically for midcaps i'd expect feed issues especially with such large capacity to be a factor of either too much tension from a fully loaded mag, or too little from friction in the bb stack. however this typically shouldn't be the case with hicaps as they're practically single stack from the paddle wheel on. is this with the hop unit set (at least approximately), having the hop unit too far off or on can give those kinds of symptoms.

As long as the hop is sitting tight to the box that rules out that as an issue. Np man, might as well have my financial insensibility of fitting titans come to some good Hopefully if the glue doesnt hold there'll be a col to be a bit more long term.

ahh yes, the hop'll do that can't really help much on the mag front it's been years since i've messed around with m4 mags, now if it were an ak that'd be easy that fps variation could be better, but at least it's playable. have you an o-ring/spring pushing the hop to the gb? iirc you were querying that to also tighten the upper/lower fit with the body pin?

mag compatibility can be just one of those things, sounds like the DE mag is just set slightly lower than the cyma. if it works the other way round (ie cyma works in the DE) then tbh the best solution would be using cyma mags. one thing to think about is the potential for the adjustment to back off in-game. the g&g is a different system but the one thing i found happened far too often is it'd back out during a game, you'd start with a nice solid figure and end the day barely spitting rounds. the fps consistency should show if it's an air leak, a consistent low fps would suggest it's just spring tension but a wider range of values would lean towards a leak.

as above, please don't use an airsoft pew, 2-toned or not, in public, no matter how secluded a spot you think you're in. that's not the sort of publicity our hobby needs. take it to a proper airsoft site, it's much more enjoyable when the target is allowed to shoot back.