Adolf Hamster

metal filings under the bevel i'd be taking a close look at the shimming between the sector and bevel, and the engagement of the pinion. usually the latter is pretty tricky to do by eye (when the box is in its assembled state) but you can tell by ear when it's running if the box is straining. one method is once you have the bevel shimmed as low as it can go to the left half (with all the shims in place on the top side too) is to take just the bevel and put it in the right half of the box and hold the motor in position to see if it's roughly at the right height. shimming the rest of the gears as low as possible gives the range of motion you've got to play with (eg if you've got 0.3mm under the bevel on the left side, you know you can't go lower than that) but you can go higher, which will help with the pinion engagement. it can take a few test-tries, put the box together with just the motor and gears and run it to get a feel for the noise/strain it's under with no load (same idea as putting the box together with just the gears and spinning them by hand to check they spin free) the piston is a bit tricker, one school of thought is that sort of damage is the sector gear naturally carving its own preferred engagement into the piston. when switching to the likes of steel rack pistons this can't be done, so you need to put some effort into making sure the aoe is smooth. setting aoe isn't particularly difficult. you can get shims from ak2m4 that space the piston back from the piston head. the aim is to get the first pickup tooth to mesh smoothly with the sector gear (as a general rule i aim to have the face of the piston tooth and sector tooth meeting such that the full area is contacted). it should never require more than 1 tooth removed and in the majority of cases half a tooth is enough (i tend to buy the shs 14.5 tooth pistons for this reason). one of luke's more recent vids (i forget which one) has a good point about carving the back of the second tooth at an angle, to give clearance whilst also preserving as much of the second tooth as possible to catch the second tooth of the sector. the way to check it is to have just the sector gear and piston/cylinder assembly in the gun (sans-spring), push the piston forward by hand and roll the sector around to pull it back, you'll feel if it's not picking it up smoothly. although bear in mind if there's any soft components in the cylinder (eg a mushroom piston head) then the piston might be slightly further forward when under spring tension. where folk tend to go wrong with aoe is "correcting" guns that don't need corrected, or overcorrecting by shoving 1/4" of sorbothane in the cylinder regardless of how far back the piston actually needs to go.

going by his other thread it's not a k?

i mean it works, but the thing that immediately jumps to my mind when seeing that is "hmmm fogging"

it shouldn't need the handguard pulled, just pop the front body pin and the whole upper receiver, barrel and handguard should slide forward off the gun as one complete assembly. that is, i'm assuming the gun is stock, or functionally close enough to stock. to be fair, luke's a tech, it's not in his best interests to teach people to do the job they could be paying him to do.

generally the vast majority of airsoft ar derivatives follow a very similar process for pulling the gearbox: pull front body pin, slide off upper (may require some fiddling of the charging handle to get it to shift) remove stock and unscrew the central bolt holding it onto the gearbox, remove stock tube and free the wiring (there may be different ways of getting the wiring through depending on the particular stock) remove baseplate from the grip, pull contacts from motor and take the motor out, the motor should come out relatively easily or maybe with a bit of wiggling. remove screws from inside of the grip and remove the grip, freeing the wiring in the process remove mag release (method will depend on the particular setup, some are screws, some you push through and unwind) remove rear body pin (it may have a circlip) and tap out the smaller mid-pin check for any bolt-catch related components, some guns need these removed to have enough clearance for the box, some won't have anything box should now be free to be wiggled up and out of the receiver, if it's binding change the selector to safe/semi at least as a general guideline, each step may have slight variations on what is/isn't needed.

maybe dirt/grease on the sensors for the sector gear? one of the issues with optical mosfets is you gotta be more sparing of grease than a normal box.

this, we accept that 2-tone is a necessary evil to allow our hobby to continue, and as long as you don't do it to anything rare/nice (ie not commonly available) nobody is going to care.

taofledermaus? theyre the only ones afaik in modern times who've had access to og gyrogets and more importantly the ammo. although afaik there is someone working on doing a modern repro. yeah that's gonna be an interesting video. tbh though, there's still quite aways to go before this becomes practical as a replacement for good ol' gunpowder. no doubt regardless of how fast/slow development happens anything that launches projectiles at that rate will be receiving the banhammer for anywhere outside of america.

lets face it i'm sure somewhere would let that thing pass chrono...... also inb4 someone tries to fire a gyrojet round out of one.....

what ammo? typically for midcaps i'd expect feed issues especially with such large capacity to be a factor of either too much tension from a fully loaded mag, or too little from friction in the bb stack. however this typically shouldn't be the case with hicaps as they're practically single stack from the paddle wheel on. is this with the hop unit set (at least approximately), having the hop unit too far off or on can give those kinds of symptoms.

As long as the hop is sitting tight to the box that rules out that as an issue. Np man, might as well have my financial insensibility of fitting titans come to some good Hopefully if the glue doesnt hold there'll be a col to be a bit more long term.

ahh yes, the hop'll do that can't really help much on the mag front it's been years since i've messed around with m4 mags, now if it were an ak that'd be easy that fps variation could be better, but at least it's playable. have you an o-ring/spring pushing the hop to the gb? iirc you were querying that to also tighten the upper/lower fit with the body pin?

mag compatibility can be just one of those things, sounds like the DE mag is just set slightly lower than the cyma. if it works the other way round (ie cyma works in the DE) then tbh the best solution would be using cyma mags. one thing to think about is the potential for the adjustment to back off in-game. the g&g is a different system but the one thing i found happened far too often is it'd back out during a game, you'd start with a nice solid figure and end the day barely spitting rounds. the fps consistency should show if it's an air leak, a consistent low fps would suggest it's just spring tension but a wider range of values would lean towards a leak.

as above, please don't use an airsoft pew, 2-toned or not, in public, no matter how secluded a spot you think you're in. that's not the sort of publicity our hobby needs. take it to a proper airsoft site, it's much more enjoyable when the target is allowed to shoot back.

i dunno, putting m4 stocks on ak's is about equally egregious to putting an m4 mag on a pistol imo....

good idea that, will have to remember it. ahh the next familiar problem. getting it so that the semi-blocker is enough distance to set off semi auto without over-travelling and tripping the auto. iirc i adjusted the rod at the trigger end- filed out the slot on the trigger and packed the rod (that was for adjusting the rod forward for less distance) i swear if your next buy is an m4 with the worst possible wiring job whilst still being technically functional imma call shenanigans

hey, the p90 is a perfectly acceptable gun to use. save the hate for people who put buffer tube stocks onto anything that isn't an ar......

i'd be looking at the aster. sounds like it could be one of 2 issues: 1. the sensor for either the selector plate or the sector gear isn't reading properly, so it either thinks it's in auto or it can't see the sector. 2. if it's using the auto precock then it can take a few shots for it to dial in the value it wants.

personally, i'd be going with option 3. @Speedbird_666's link has shells in stock. ofc wether or not you want to fix up to use or fix up to sell is down to you. cylinders and pistons can be found here, along with other parts: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk the steel rack pistons you'll want to glue the rack in place before final assembly (they're removable in case folk want to do any tooth shaving shenanigans). if you're replacing the cylinder (and de-activating the blowback), the fps might jump up as a result, so be mindful a spring change might also be on the cards.

even if it only works for a few shots it'll at least confirm the theory.

didn't think about that one. i normally do a mid-way of having option 1 with the loop going under the second peg on the trolley or at least whichever method has the spring sitting straightest. your right that the COL doesn't look significantly worn, the gears definitely not worn either. not really seeing anything jumping out to eye, perhaps the col edge could be closer to the sector gear but again if that's the original col and gears then that's where it's supposed to be, but then we are talking airsoft levels of precision. you could try pulling the trigger pack, have just the sector and col in and rotate it to see what kind of range of motion it has. yeah that's the gap i'm thinking about. if it were me i'd rather be checking different col's until finding one that was naturally a bit higher in that regard, main downside is getting access to a bunch of different col's. when i did it would go to the local shop, tech there didn't mind me having a rummage through and chucking him a couple of £ for whatever random part i'd found to do the job.

Aye try the original col with the new trigger parts, no wear on the trolley? Im thinking maybe if the ledge the col engages with has managed to wear/get damage. Gears shouldnt be the issue, although maybe worth comparing the cam to the original gears to be sure, although i'd be surprised.

that's a pretty common issue with a non-matched col. part of the whole "compatible-ish" nature of airsoft. sometimes it's a case of try a bunch until you find one that works nice and why a well stocked box o' bits is handy. did the original look particularly worn? yeah it's a steep curve but does get easier.

i can kinda see that logic. thanks for clarifying.

binary triggers i can sort of get behind as they effectively remove semi. sure you could fire one round then release the trigger pointing at the dirt, but lets face it nobody is gonna do that making 2 rounds the de-facto minimum you're gonna be sending at a target. sure you can get a reasonably high round count with regular spamming, but however fast you can spam on a regular trigger is doubled on a binary trigger. box mags on pistols i'm not so sure on, certainly for certain themed events i get it but for regular skirmishing? can't say i agree. sure i hate em, but you just gotta accept some folks don't think that way, and i can't really see them as being particularly enabling of dickish behavior in the same way binary triggers are (as in, what can you do with an m4 mag hpa'd hicapa that you couldn't do with an hpa'd arp9?) the 2-tone thing i don't get at all, so some people are impatient and don't want to wait to get registered? what's wrong with that? again for themed events maybe, but not regular skirmishing.