Adolf Hamster

the dwell time (dp) on the jack is the cycle time, when you pull the trigger the solenoid engages, air starts flowing, the nozzle moves forward and loads a bb then at near full extension air starts going through the nozzle to push the bb down the barrel. when the cycle is over the solenoid turns off, air stops flowing and the nozzle automatically retracts. if the dwell is too short then it'll stop sending air before the bb has left the barrel, making it undervolumed and messing with accuracy likewise if the dwell is too long then it'll keep sending air after the bb has left the barrel and the burst of following air can mess with accuracy (and also be a waste of air in general) hpa's are particularly sensitive to having the voluming set just right, although at least adjusting it is relatively easy. the jack in particular (as you're finding with the longer barrel) is tricky as it's an entirely pressure fed system, so running a lower pressure also lowers the force the nozzle can move with meaning it'll struggle to chamber a round on a full mag.

tbh how far the actual hop wheel needs to go to get usable hop is less important than how much the hop bucking is impinging on the chamber, as long as there's some room either side of the "sweet spot" to adjust if needed (ie it's not spacing stuff with the hop completely off nor struggling to lift at full hop). lower degree is a softer grippier rubber, although the material also plays a part. but i don't think the bucking/nub choice is the problem here as opposed to the nozzle alignment. the open-bolt nature of the jack makes it very sensitive to proper placement and fundamentally limits what you can get out of it due to the way the system works.

macaron 60degree is a solid choice of hop rubber, and best paired with their "omega" nub, although the Rhop block on the maxx works equally well. barrel length might be a factor, the arp is on the shorter end of things but tbh i'm tempted to say this might be open-bolt syndrome.

that should be ok then, it's not too hard a compound. sounds like it's ammo, assembly, or air seal. air seal is easy enough to check on a chrono- just see what range of values you get over a few shots. could be that especially with an aftermarket hop unit that it's not seating properly and you're getting losses at the hop even if the gearbox is delivering the air just fine.

not heard of them doing a white bucking? unless you mean tan which is normally 60 degree?

what grade (colour) of maple leaf did you fit? i'm assuming you went for the macaron? one area i'd look at is the bb's, maybe grab a bag of geoffs in something heavier (0.28-0.32 g range) see how that performs. otherwise it'll boil down to installation/assembly, and the fps consistency (this is particularly relevant if the vertical dispersion is bad).

for a given energy, and assuming the gun can lift them, heavier ammo will always go further. however if the gun struggles to lift a heavier bb, it can be a case that a lighter bb requiring less hop will be more effective, especially seeing as turning the hop up tends to result in increased resistance (and hence lower energy). changing the hop to something like the maple leaf setup will make it easier to lift the heavies. the list i gave is in roughly the order of improvement-difficulty ratio, so the further down the list the more difficult the step is relative to the improvement you can get. 1, 2 and 3 generally aren't that tricky to do for AR pattern guns as pulling the hop is a relatively easy process. step 4 is where you might want to hesitate, at least until you've expanded your collection a tad and have a reliable backup gun, rather than risk breaking something as a first-time teching experience.

yeah it's one of those problems that can require a bit of fettling to solve sometimes. iirc i ended up just having to tighten the barrel nut such that the barrel ended up square once it was tightened. the alignment tabs? it should do?

you do want a level of tightness for rotation, dremeling might make it loose so things like monopoding on the mag might rotate the hop in-game. i'd look at the mounting of the outer barrel to the reciever, it's normally not an issue unless you start changing the frontend to the point of removing the barrel nut.

Outer barrel being rotated would explain all those issues, although not why it was working fine before. I remember fighting that same issue with me old king arms barrel going onto an e&c reciever. One of those situations where you might need to get creative with preventing the barrel from twisting on installation, or putting the time in to make sure its sitting square after the barrel nut is fully tightened.

it's a tricky one, generally i agree however one thing that can almost reliably fuck up a gun is having active brake on a gun that doesn't need it (ties into my point 1 about lack of experience). ak's are the worst offenders but it can happen on any platform. was one of the first mistakes i made with the f2000 and it led to a lot of headscratching about why semi auto no work. hence when suggesting mosfets i see little practical use for the middle ground between your basic no-frills contact protectors, and mosfets with actual precocking. is that what you get with the expert version titans? i thought it was only access to the gate rankings where one presumes you compete to be the biggest arsehole without an airline

agree, there seems to be this mythos that bad shimming=anything other than absolutely zero ability for any gear to move sideways ever not even 0.000000000000001nm but the reality is that as long as the gears can't move to a position where they interfere with themselves/other components and the bevel is in about the right place for the pinion then that's good enough. and you're right that whilst the people who build our toys might not put the care and attention into it that we do, but doing nothing but assemble gearboxes every single day they are at least pretty proficient, and they have to do at least an acceptable job to avoid returns. a basic mosfet won't, but the more advanced ones (gate warfet, perun ab++, gate aster/titan and perun optical) can do precocking, which does exactly that.

for the most pews i'd say that the overwhelming proportion of reliability issues stem from 2 primary causes: 1. mistakes in assembly, most often caused by the person doing it being inexperienced (been there, done that, still have my collection of stripped pistons) 2. attempting to push unrealistic performance, most commonly trying to push the rate of fire too hard (also been there, done that, it's about half my collection of stripped pistons) the easiest way to avoid both of these issues is simply don't fuck with a working gun. there is one exception to this rule and that's mosfets, without any kind of mosfet on an aeg over time the contacts will either carbon up, or with a powerful enough battery burn out. a simple basic mosfet (i generally use the nanoasr for this purpose, other mosfets are available) will remedy this for the long term. now granted certain guns can have very specific points of failure, notably weak parts or bad design choices etc, but it's still easier to wait until it breaks for sure before messing with it. one thing to bear in mind is that strengthened parts (eg: steel rack pistons) can have indirect consequences, where a plastic piston might wear-into it's preferred aoe or strip when overloaded a stronger part can push that elsewhere so instead of a stripped piston you might find the bevel eats itself instead.

to echo above the first thing you're gonna want is a chrono if you're going to be messing around with springs etc. not only can it check the power is correct, but it's a good measurement for consistency and wether or not any remedial work done to the air seal has actually helped. on the subject of which for range/accuracy you're gonna want to look at the following (in order of difficulty-performance ratio): 1. clean the barrel, and get into the habit of cleaning it regularly. a good rule of thumb is before every game day although sometimes even during a game day might be necessary (especially with a tighter bore) 2. feed it good quality heavier ammo, even the best gun in the world will shoot like shit if you stuff some bulldog 0.12's in it. how heavy is a toss up between your usual round count and your bank balance but generally the 0.28-0.32g range tends to be a good compromise for assault style play. 3. tying into 2 is to look at the hop, doesn't need to be difficult just a drop-in setup like the maple leaf macaron+omega nub combo when installed properly will help spin up the heavies. the longer feedlips can occasionally cause feeding issues in some guns and for those i'm a fan of the pdi w-hop with standard nub (although that'll struggle with really heavy ammo). 4. consistency- you'll need a chrono for this. you want to be addressing any potential leak so that every last molecule in the cylinder is going nowhere but down the barrel propelling the bb. the way to check this is to chrono a few shots and semi and see what sort of range of values you get, the smaller this range the better. this involves cracking open the gearbox too so a big step up in the difficulty. 5. energy- this is where you've jumped ahead to already, but the reason to wait until you're sure the air seal is good is you want to be sure the spring your using is only as strong as it needs to be to get the energy you need. if you have a bad leak and compensate with an overpowered spring you're just loading the box unnecessarily and with less resistance the piston slapping home isn't going to be happy. you don't need to be too exact, being a few fps under the limit won't be a massive loss in range but it might make the difference if the battered to crap filled with shattered nuprol bb's and soaked in mildew from sitting in a shed site chrono doesn't read so precise any more. 6. barrel- at this point the rest of the system should be getting good enough to justify a better barrel, gains aren't likely to be massive here (we're getting to the steep bit of the diminishing returns curve) but something like the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are cracking value for money. length wise just stick with the same length as stock, extending the barrel length won't help performance and indeed can actually make things worse if it starts under-voluming the system. worth noting whilst i'm using the conventional "fps" terminology, that's actually "fps equivalent for a 0.2g bb", when using heavier ammo the raw fps number the chrono spits out will be lower, but don't be fooled into thinking that means less range, the energy (aka joules) is what matters (for site compliance) and even if it's travelling slower heavier ammo at the same energy does travel further (among other advantages). as for semi-auto response, these days that's easier than ever thanks to the abundance of mosfets with precocking. that'll take a lot of the perceived delay out of the equation without messing with rate of fire in auto (and the potential problems driving a gearbox too fast can have). pair that with a decent motor (warhead brushless being the current kings for pickup speed, although they're not exactly cheap) and you're pretty much there already.

Dry fires sound like dn/dr, cant remember which is the opening one (the manual should clarify, i wanna say dn is opening delay and dr is closing delay) but increase that a tad might help feeding issues.

true, this is how i usually deal with it. selling secondhand in airsoft you're already tanking such a loss just from the way the market works what's a few extra £ on fees for a safe transaction.

starting to remember part of where my affinity for the ak platform came from......

whilst i can get that it's a potential pressure tactic, it can also be viewed as a case of him letting you know there's competition and if you really want it then make your decision quickly. it may not be the most diplomatic wording, but i don't really see anything wrong with that. hell i've made mention myself if an item has demand and someone wants to wait a few days before paying, if only to be clear that i deal entirely first come first serve.

^what 'borg said

it can be the case that you can do X on a fully wound mag, but Y on an empty mag. the issue i had when messing with this was i was running low pressures to be in the fps limit and on the first half dozen or so rounds in a midcap it couldn't feed. but a redneck low-flow mod fixed that issue.

pretty much it might be the case that there are feeding issues before you hit the max theoretical rf setting, depends on the mag/ammo.

ease of fitting. it depends on the particular optic, some it's not too difficult to press/glue/blu-tac an acrylic disc into the existing housing to act as a sacrificial protector with no asthetic issues. the rail mounted options are easy and work for sights where doing the above isn't easy/possible. some folks (hello) really dislike the external protectors, and if they can't do a subtle method of protection just run without and accept that the occasional broken optic is gonna be a thing. that said i've so far only had 2 optics lost to getting shot out so far and both of them were amazon specials.

you set the dp in semiauto as @Steveocee says by decreasing incrementally until you get a drop in energy, then switch to auto and do the same process for increasing rf incrementally. worth noting this should be done on your in-game ammo and in-game pressures, and if you significantly change your ammo weight on a regular basis then you'll need to do it again to get it set optimally.

rf and dp are related. dp set to its most effecient will place a hard limit on the rate of fire you can get before loss of performance as it's essentially time per shot. in an engine like the f2 the dp (and other) settings override the rf setting, so if rf is set higher than the system times your final rate of fire is however fast the rest of the system timings dictate. on the jack it's the other way round, rf can overrule dp, so if your optimum dp is slower than the rf setting allows then your going to be under-volumed on auto (similar to an aeg when it gets a mild case of pme) the way to tune this is to set the rf setting same as you set dp, only with bursts of auto instead of single shots. however there's an even easier way to tune it- set it to 25rps, that way you're not "that guy" with the bb hoze.....

trying to haggle an offer is fine, and £28 doesn't seem to be an insultingly low value imo.- not an asshole likewise refusing offers isn't really an issue. -not an asshole agreeing to original pricing because you still want it is fine too. -not an asshole putting paypal fee's on top of a listed price. -it shoulda been part of the listed price or at least made clear one way or the other, so kinda an asshole maybe but not in a big way. leaving feedback on a sale that didn't go through? - sorry but that's an asshole move tit for tat feedback- you attack someone can't blame em for responding. overall verdict- seller should have simply included paypal fee's in original price (or at least been clear on what the deal was). any time i list a posted price that is the all-in and if i get a few £ less than that because of paypal fees well that's the cost of a safe payment service you can use with random internet strangers. however you should have just walked away and called it at that. i'll be honest, i'd have just paid the fees. indeed i have done it voluntarily when an ad asks for f&f i just pay goods and services with a little extra to cover the fees, i think of it as insurance should something go south.