Adolf Hamster

tbf, isn't that pretty much standard for any secondhand sale? realising the irony that i tend not to haggle often, but then i don't make offers unless i'm happy with the price as listed.....

without the context of the actual messages [and i'm not suggesting that should be posted], from the external view it seems to be a case of he said/she said. sounds to me like both sides shoulda just left this in the pm chain, there's always gonna be another buyer, and there's always gonna be someone else selling the shiny.

in my defence, i did warn you you get used to it eventually, but it is annoying. on my jg i drilled a tiny hold in one side of the trigger bar and fitted a screw to stop it jumping free, although that risks weakening the pin and it then snapping (which i've had happen) on a box that isn't too worn they usually stay put once you've got them in properly.

added some reports for the hacked ad and account. probably unnecessary, but here's hoping you get it sorted soon.

Yeah i've always ran the macaron+omega combo with the combat unions and they've had no issue with regular ammo or even the heavies, bearing in mind my concept of "normal" weights starts at 0.3g ?

Ahh yes, the ol' jg earwax "grease" Sounds like the selector teeth jumped a couple of positions on reassembly, the joys of getting a v3 box into a reciever. Best method is to lie it on its side so gravity hopefully holds it in place for you. Whilst i realise it's a contraversial opinion, i'm really not a fan of the prommy purple, it's ok as "standard" rubbers go but not anything special imo. If you're running a unit as good as the cu then i'd be strongly suggesting the maple leaf macaron+omega nub combo, that'll have no trouble lifting the heavies.

The ones i used were sprung one direction against the adjustment screw, so you could bump them and they's sorta stick in a different position. Not too hard to push it back against the stops and it'd be close enough for airsoft work but that usually happens after you've missed and the other guy has tagged you.

Oh it doesnt kill the electrics, just makes the dot turn into an amorphous blob that ye cant aim with. Ofc not a problem if you're playing indoors. I do like the style, although the cheap clone versions havent got the greatest zero holding can easily be knocked off.

Except when it rains and a droplet gets on the emitter kiss the dot goodbye

tbf, you can take that argument right to its logical conclusion that you can get decent hits just by aiming along the barrel/top of the reciever, ie any and all optics are practically pointless. but so are having airsoft guns that look like guns, as our speedsofter brethren have so profoundly proven, and we tend not to listen to them

That white peice slides forwards off the gearbox same way the sheet metal retainer does.

True, that would have to be the way to do it.

True, but banning the n+1 usernames wont work long term if it's gonna change the username/post content randomly?

I think that might have been done for the old one (john the 40 year old 1911 shooter) hence its changed to this new post?

As with any gearbox keep a good track of shims when taking it apart, then you wont need to re shim. The hardest part of a v3 (especially one with a qd mainspring) is getting the trigger in, i advise taking care when popping the halves to ensure it stays in the bottom half, hopefully it should stay put and you wont have to mess with it. Otherwise once its split changing the nozzle is no different to any other box. As @Skara says the cu nozzle should be a little tight on the cylinder head because of the sealing o ring, as long as it still moves ok under spring tension (a little grease around the cylinder head tube on installation helps) then it's a good thing as it'll boost the air seal and hence performance.

as long as it's not so bad that you're damaging it (ie bending) when fitting, then it can be ok. the key is that the hop unit is up tight against the gearbox, typically for an m4 variant this is done either with a spring or series of o-rings around the inner barrel to actively push it back against the gearbox, this has the added benefit of reducing wobble between the upper/lower. on other designs, the hop unit is sometimes bolted to the gearbox solidly to prevent movement. so as long as you don't have the hop unit sitting too far forward on assembly (ie that there's a gap between it and the gearbox) then it being tight shouldn't be an issue.

as others have said- if they don't have a band visible just shoot em. that's the risk they're taking for adopting that playstyle, and if they get annoyed by friendly fire then that's a them problem.

as above we need the model of the etu to offer anything more concrete. for a setup that uses optical sensors (titan/aster/perun optical) they can be sensitive to grease etc and you have to be more sparing in that regard than an external unit that doesn't care if the box is drowned in grease. for setups that use mechanical switches, then the area to look at is the cutoff lever and wether or not it's got the travel to activate the switch, had this problem with an ascu unit many years ago and had to loot my local shop's box of random cutoff levers to find one that had the right travel.

yep, it is indeed. good ammo is imo one of the first "upgrades" folk should do, it's the easiest variable to eliminate when facing the problem of trying to improve accuracy. can also help function, i've "fixed" many a misfeeding gun by doing nothing more complex than emptying the magazine and filling it with geoffs.

sounds fishy, report a pm he's sent you and the mods can take a look and swing the ol' banhammer.

That goes without saying

you're doing it wrong. airsoft reviews are 90% listing how ambidextrous it is, 5% chrono test and 5% accuracy test all conducted within 20 minutes of opening the box you're not supposed to give people actual information or give them any notion of longevity.... i jest of course, good work actually reviewing the thing properly over a period of years.

Not sure getting the reference precludes that assessment.....