Adolf Hamster

for short stroking removing the release teeth isn't really necessary, it's just something people like doing for neatness but outside a fractional weight saving it doesn't actually make a difference. for aoe it'll depend on how everything goes together, but as long as it's picking up smooth without clipping any teeth then it's good.

bit like dwarf bread, great survival ration seeing as it's amazing what you can find to eat when faced with the alternative of eating dwarf bread.....

You say that like there's any rational argument that could do so. But we both know the world is split into 2 kinds of people: people who dont like pineapple on pizza, and heretics.

inverted is the correct way. was just making sure we can eliminate underfilling as a cause for those symptoms. as @Speedbird_666 said it's refund time.....

12 seconds should definitely be long enough, is that with the bottle inverted? ie upside down above the mag. the "gas" in the mag is actually a liquid (think lighter "gas", same principle with the liquid portion sloshing around) so you want liquid from the bottle going into the mag.

worth asking- how are you filling the mags? bottle inverted and held for a few seconds? because that symptom might be due to an underfill. if it's not underfilled mags then as above that's an abysmal showing given the season and the rate of fire, you should at minimum expect it to empty a full load of bb's and lock back on a fresh tank of gas.

worth measuring the nozzle and having a look to see if there are ones for other guns in the same length? there's a few guns run a longer nozzle.

best way is just grab a bag and try running them for a game, see if they're still performing well enough for your playstyle.

tbf, compared to here where anything double digits is considered acceptable and anything over 20° is considered too damn hot

Generally tan, green if you wanna lift the heavies (ie up to 0.48) at low energy.

is it worse in the vertical spread than the horizontal? as a general rule horizontal spread is a function of the hop, and component alignment (eg barrel being wobbly, etc) vertical is a function of both the above and your fps consistency. i'm wondering if now what you're getting is the latter of those, specifically jack syndrome which i mentioned earlier. to quickly run through the way the jack works: 1.default state is reservoir under pressure, pulling the nozzle rearward 2.a shot signal sends air behind the nozzle, pushing it forwards picking up the bb etc 3.when the nozzle gets to about 1-2mm from the end of travel a set of ports is uncovered 4.the ports allow air from the reservoir through the centre of the nozzle and down the barrel to push the bb 5.when the shot signal is over the air behind the piston is vented, the pressure in the reservoir now pushes the nozzle back the issue is between 3 and 4- air is getting sent through the nozzle before the nozzle has gone full travel to seal against the hop lips, the randomness of escaping air is what's giving a variation in velocity and hence vertical spread. if your symptom is vertical and not horizontal dispersion (or at least, a lot worse in the vertical than the horizontal) then that would be a likely candidate. unfortunately there's not really a solid fix for this, it's an inherent design flaw of the jack and if you're building for long range accuracy the only option is to not use that engine. you want a closed bolt system, for polarstar's product line the 2 you want for accuracy work are the F2 and the fusion, with the f2 being somewhat more adaptable and easier to setup than the fusion. there's also the wolverine offerings although having never run them i can't comment as to their efficacy. if it's about even horizontal/vertical then could be a dwell issue, too much or too little air, hard to call without seeing it but the above only applies if you're getting pretty solid dispersion horizontally but the vertical is going off.

that would cause it to curve, hence my query to determine if that was the cause. missed it the first time but 5 meters is a very short distance, too close for the hop to kick in anyway, how big is your target? also are you running anything on the gun, i'm thinking specifically something like a suppressor or different flash hider?

does the bb go in a straight line to the left, or does it go straight for a bit then curve?

been a fair few years, last time was iron maiden which was as much theatre with musical accompaniment. ofc that was pre-covid.. not much of a gig go-er tbh, i do appreciate a good show but it's not something i go out of my way to do on even an irregular basis. think it's because i have to balance my love of the music with my distain for overcrowded situations.

in that case going back to my response (with davegolf's caveat of maybe it's been done intentionally to compensate for the patch, but that's still poor workmanship) then that block being wonky is gonna give you uneven pressure and spinning rounds off at a weird angle. you could try swapping it out for a stock arm with omega nub, see if that helps.

Oh wow, unless theres some weird perception going on with that camera angle that is a wonky arm. That'd definately cause some weird behaviour. The arm/nub/thing that presses down on an rhop patch should be a curve, a classic example would be the maple leaf omega nub (with the macaron bucking being essentially an r-hop moulded into a triangular shape and integral to the bucking rather than a seperate patch) Edit- as above is there another peice between the arm and the bucking? Although even if there were it still wouldnt be getting even pressure.

on paper the 0.4g is better, although how much better will depend on your own standards, the capability of the pew doing the launching and prevailing weather conditions. ofc wether or not it's enough better to justify the higher cost per round is an entirely personal thing and there's no real right or wrong answer.

you are not going to believe this.... apparently the lonex didn't get yeeted...... pm incoming

you've got to be kidding me..... topic a while back on medium shaft motors (maybe yourself @LazzurusMan?): me thinking "hmm, i have a medium length lonex somewhere that got mis-delivered from gunfire and i cba'd sending it back", looked for it, couldn't find it, figure it got yeeted me 2 weeks ago "i have too much shit, gotta clear out", in the process find said lonex, can't find thread, motor gets yeeted me now "FUUUUUUU......." edit, for the sake of being constructive, whilst the infinity motors are damn good as brushed motors go, at £70 i'd probably prefer getting a long shaft warhead base and going with @Lozart's suggestion.

usually the rhop is best avoided given there aren't many places can do them properly. that said, umbrella are one of the ones that i thought could do it properly. assuming no potential for a qc defect (eg patch coming loose) then there's a couple of things might be worth thinking about: 1. they seem to taylor more to an american audience, so might be the compounds they're using aren't ideally suited to 1j and cold weather 2. lower fps could be from a bore obstruction, but it could also be (and tbh is more likely) a leak between the nozzle and hop. did it come with o-rings around the barrel? if not then you might want to try adding some to get the hop spaced onto the barrel (does secondary duty of reducing reciever wobble), should be enough to make the front body pin a tight fit but not overly so. 3. the quality of seal within the gearbox remains a factor, and can have a much bigger impact than the hop/barrel combo when it comes to consistency. 4. and i only mention this because it's a sneaky one, but make sure when you're setting the hop you start with it off and turn up, not the other way around. reason being is you can sometimes get 2 "sweet spots" with the second being at a much reduced energy level yet overspun so much the round can still fly.

you say that, i did once have a duel with a chap who was running 0.2's from a bolty outdoors. problem was it was a flat 1j field and that happened to be the day i felt like running the .48's. so when i say duel, it was kinda one-sided....

it's certainly possible to replace feed springs, maple airsoft do replacements although they can be hard to find. i've also done it replacing springs/followers in e&l mags with cyma ones, but that would mean buying whole mags which would kinda defeat the purpose.

Ahh, another thread, carry on.

[Citation needed]

Is that where the deja-vu about the age-based insults is coming from?