Adolf Hamster

Yep, whats worse is that twiddling the barrel doesnt strictly move the hop bucking at the same rate as the barrel (cos it can stretch), ends up not quite centred over the barrel window even if its centred to the hop. Maddening! This is one of the things that differentiates a good hop unit from a bad hop unit, the centering of the window over the barrel, being a good fit for seal but not too tight, the c clip holding the barrel even closer to square. Only hop unit i've met that does this perfectly is the combat union ak unit, but then that thing is ridiculously overbuilt with the pricetag to match..... Usually they tend to stay in position relatively well, outside of installing the hop/barrel unit into the reciever theres not much load on the barrel aside from being pushed straight forwards.

oil won't help it's lifting capabilities (although usually that tends to be temporary, after a few mags it'll have worn down to fresh rubber) you mean the indentation on the outside? that's pretty normal to see, it's the result of the rubber being constantly pressed down by the nub when it's in the gun (because the vast majority of folk myself included don't turn their hop units off at the end of a game day). that in and of itself shouldn't be anything to worry about. what matters is the mound inside the rubber if it has any damage to it would cause curving. lip damage would generally cause an air leak resulting in fps inconsistency, although it is worth checking the lip and the bucking in general for tears.

the alignment can be very subtle, if you're looking down the barrel through the back of the hop unit you'll get a picture like this: left is misaligned and would curve shots off to the left, right is perfectly centered. of course you have to eyeball it based on the feed tube cos you can't cheat and add an imaginary line like i have on those images. a deformation in the mound of the bucking would do that, some do have intentional shapes (eg the pdi w hold looks like a normal bucking with a v cut in the middle), but it's possible for wear/damage to do something similar which if off-centre can affect the spin and hence cause curving.

tbh probably not worth it for the extra cost, especially if you're not fussed about future expansion or the need to re-wire the gun if you do change your mind. afaik the ab++ is perun's warfet competitor, so unless you care about the first semi shot after a burst in auto having precocking then should be good. not used them personally (prefer the warfet's programming card) but perun have made a solid enough name for themselves.

i'd be tempted to say the nanoasr over the picossr, if you wire it up with the hybrid wiring (ie 2 wires to the trigger seperate to the 2 wires to the motor) then it's basically a plug and play swap to the likes of a warfer if in future you decide you might want some precocking goodness. iirc the motor i ran in the jg (only gun i ran on 11.1v long term) was one of the asg basics (the stock scorpion evo motor), and that would happily chug away all day (well, if you changed the 800mah battery at lunch) not sure if they do a long shaft version though (assuming it's long shaft you're after).

i feel ye man, exact same story with me g&g f2000, had to order from evike......

not recommended isn't strictly the whole story. it'll increase your rate of fire/cycle time (aka "trigger response") on a given setup, and for mostly stock guns it's an effective way of boosting the system without splashing out on aftermarket motors. the trigger contacts thing is an issue, but unless you're running a less common gun with proprietary trigger parts it's not so big a deal to have to change out a set of contacts if they burn out. generally speaking if you're building the gun (ie changing all the things) then you build to the battery you're using, which often means 7.4 when combined with typical motor/gear combos. the mosfets to avoid are the ones that only offer active breaking without any precocking functionality, as outside of some specific cases applying active brake to a build that doesn't need it (ie a sane and sensible build) can cause issues with the system stopping too quickly and locking up on semi-auto.

as much as i'm a fan of the pdi barrels, you really need to have the rest of the system perfectly dialed in before it's going to be a noticeable difference compared to the likes of the ZCI, and the ZCI's are much cheaper.

depends on what you're getting the mosfet for. if it's just a basic unit for protecting contacts, then whilst any battery will eventually carbon them up the higher discharge stuff especially 11.1v li-po will drastically shorten the lifespan without a mosfet. if you're looking at more advanced units (warfet/ab++, titan etc) then the driving factor is additional functionality rather than strictly battery choice.

Note: when doing this use a flat ended tool.

looks like that's the stock length for his gun, which tbf is generally a good starting point. as @Impulse suggested, going a little either side is fine (9mm longer ain't gonna be too visible in the flash hider).

Tbf, the condition doesnt look too bad. Looks like a typical case of not realising airsoft depretiation rates.

Worth noting that whilst sure it aint pretty or "proper", and not something you'd expect a decent tech to do, ptfe tape does work for the cylinder head when done neatly. One of those bodges that does at least have some basis in reality for those who only care about the result and don't worry about the next guy who has to open the box. Generally with the cyma's air seal is what i'd gravitate towards as an area to be addressed. A nozzle with a sealing o ring is a good shout for any box that doesn't already have it.

it is still possible to trip up the warfet, although not as easy as a mechanical trigger. you'll get the feel for it regardless. ahh yes, spinning the cylinder. tbh from all the messing around i've done i've tended to find aeg's are that badly sensitive to overvoluming, on the likes of an hpa you do gotta get it right although thankfully on those platforms it's also very easy to get it adjusted perfect for the ammo you're using. as a general rule sticking with stock ain't too far off. chrono is a useful tool for tinkering, worth getting one if you don't have one already. it's a good way of measuring the quality of air seal and to some extent expected accuracy (at least the factors relating to consistent velocity).

maybe a little too quick on the trigger? on 12:1 that's a nice combo, snappy in semi but nothing crazy in auto, i was getting ~18ish rps out of that build but the trigger response would fool ye into thinking it was much faster. not unusual for hop completely off to have firing issues, it's one of the reasons i take exception to sites that insist on chrono'ing that way because you can get some weird readings. only cause for sidespin aside from the hop would be something like dirt/deformation in the barrel, or the bb clipping something (typically suppressors) on the way out, although usually that's a lot more dramatic.

probably because most "fully upgraded" guns are just standard guns with a spring change tbf, you ain't that bad, my old m4 only the outer barrel was original.....

3 more parts to go and it will actually be "fully upgraded"

No active breaking mosfets involved? Thats a pretty common cause for semi lockups. Did the hop look square in the barrel ok before install? It can be subtle, and often it might look fine in one position only to become not fine when the hop is adjusted.

Consistent curving off to the right is the hop mound being off-square This is commonly one of 2 things: -The nub is uneven/off centre in the chamber (the arm may also be off centre/square depending on the quality of the unit) -The bucking is rotated slightly off-centre either because its not square on the barrel or the barrel itself is off square. Pull the barrel/hop unit, turn it on a bit then look down the barrel, it'll be obvious how its sitting relative to the feed tube on the hop.

pretty much the only reason to say no would be if you want to buy it thinking it might be some kind of investment that will appreciate in value. if you want it because, well, you just want it, and are happy with whatever the pricetag is then that's pretty much the standard criteria for buying an airsoft pew fulfilled.

nope, that's what the box o' springs is for

whilst it is over-volumed, short stroking will still result in a drop in energy. any piston travel before the compression stage will still be contributing to energy as the piston accelerates gaining kinetic energy which gets dumped once compression starts (essentially changing the pressure curve to one with a sharper ramp up) as others have mentioned, having the release tooth being plastic rather than metal might cause wear/failure, but it's not the worst to change out aside from cleaning up the box if it goes. keeping the remaining teeth on the piston is fine, tbh aside from the slight weight saving there isn't strictly any cause to remove them, although it feels neater having matching teeth.

indeed, i found it seemed to be terribly inconsistent. ended up going old school with just using the timers which worked out much better.

that looks to me like a warranty thing. all precocking is is running the motor slightly longer than the usual cutoff point, you could acheive the same effect on a purely mechanical trigger by shifting the cam position. mine certainly didn't explode or do anything out of the ordinary with precocking set to as high as it'd go without double firing.....

yes you can? some level of over-run is pretty typical in most pews, i wouldn't worry about it. i did pull the grip on mine and trip the arl after a game, but then that was relatively easy on the e&l ak box and i was using all the precocking so it was slightly more needed.