Adolf Hamster

true, but for a given level of tension a softer compound will do a better job of gripping/spinning. i guess if you're limited (in lukes case by the customer) in terms of what you can swap out then it makes sense that a given platform will struggle. dialing up the pressure is one thing, but eventually there comes a point where it's too much. recall working on a bolty that was a literal knife edge between hopping perfectly and jamming, like you thought about possibly breathing in the general direction of the hop adjustment wheel from 20 miles away and it'd jam kind of sensitive. however yes, for the most part you can get a lot of guns to lift the heavies with sufficient effort.

you could try a softer compound? go with the 50/60 degree? other option which i've done, more for gbb hops but in theory it should work for an aeg is a little square of aeg hop rubber as a shim.

18:1

7.4v.....

That sounds like precocking timing to me. Wouldnt be surprising, swapping motors is gonna mean the system runs different so you gotta dial in the settings for a specific motor/gear/stroke/spring combo. Eg if it overruns by 20ms that might be bang on for a motor that takes 40ms to cycle from a standing start but swap to a motor that takes 35ms and it'll be different.

ahh, sorry my derp, i thought you were meaning taking from the face of the fin...... yes taking from the bottom of the fin same way the dsg tappet plates are would help.

i can see where you're going with shaving down the tappet, personally i'd be looking more towards increasing the tension on the tappet, take a couple of coils off its spring kinda thing. issue with shaving down the tappet is going too far and goodbye feeding. short-stroking won't really help the nozzle timing, especially teeth off the release side as it'll be releasing the piston even earlier relative to when the tappet is released. hence i tend to lean more towards taking teeth from the pickup side. although granted it will help if the problem is pme rather than tappet timing.

this in semi or auto? 27k+13:1+11.1v does sound like it's sailin for pme territory... pme would usually only manifest in auto so unless it's double tapping in semi you shouldn't be getting issues between motors. the only other issue aside from pme is if the tappet plate just ain't keeping up with the rest of the box, ie the gun's firing before the plate has time to close and losing air. usually an auto thing but given the warheads pickup rate i suppose it ain't out of the question for it to happen in semi.

most motors tend to come with pinions, and the majority of the time folk tend not to care too much about having the exact right pinion matching the exact right gears. easiest way if you care for such things would be to try and match motor+gearing brand. i'm a big fan of the maple leaf macaron+omega nub combo, ran it in many pews with excellent results. tan is fine for general use or green if you're the kind of lunatic who needs to be able to lift 0.48g at 1j...... iirc some specna units have the nub built into the arm? i'll let owners confirm that though. bushings versus bearings, eh, i've never really paid much mind. bushings are going to be able to take more punishment and won't fail catastrophically like a ball bearing can, but bearings can be better for speed. some folk even mix and match with bushings on the sector then bearings on the idler/bevel gear. shimming would be worth doing only if you feel like you can do it well, otherwise leaving it stock will be a relatively safe option. gotta keep good track of em though, nothing likes going walkies like a shim...... the combat union design is pretty slick, it has a steel clip that slides in as normal (no actual tension just a neat fit) then a grub screw to lock the clip in place and a collet that screws in and locks the barrel absolutely rock solid. that said, lot more space in an ak reciever to have a chunky unit with all that stuff on it, wouldn't be to easy to pull off in an m4.

i'd assume the selector plate teeth aren't lined up quite right, very common issue thanks to the rube-golberg setup the v3 box has for a fire selector. one thing i find helps is to insert the gearbox with the reciever lying flat on the left side, let gravity hold the components in place whilst your sliding it into position.

think it's cos folk don't realise that it's an intentional feature and is there for a specific reason, given the majority of pistols from other brands use the silent type valves you can expect folk to think that a valve that spits gas and liquid at you when filling is some kind of failure. i do agree it's a good feature when you know what it's supposed to do and how to use it, tbh i'm surprised it hasn't been copied that much.

Yep, whats worse is that twiddling the barrel doesnt strictly move the hop bucking at the same rate as the barrel (cos it can stretch), ends up not quite centred over the barrel window even if its centred to the hop. Maddening! This is one of the things that differentiates a good hop unit from a bad hop unit, the centering of the window over the barrel, being a good fit for seal but not too tight, the c clip holding the barrel even closer to square. Only hop unit i've met that does this perfectly is the combat union ak unit, but then that thing is ridiculously overbuilt with the pricetag to match..... Usually they tend to stay in position relatively well, outside of installing the hop/barrel unit into the reciever theres not much load on the barrel aside from being pushed straight forwards.

oil won't help it's lifting capabilities (although usually that tends to be temporary, after a few mags it'll have worn down to fresh rubber) you mean the indentation on the outside? that's pretty normal to see, it's the result of the rubber being constantly pressed down by the nub when it's in the gun (because the vast majority of folk myself included don't turn their hop units off at the end of a game day). that in and of itself shouldn't be anything to worry about. what matters is the mound inside the rubber if it has any damage to it would cause curving. lip damage would generally cause an air leak resulting in fps inconsistency, although it is worth checking the lip and the bucking in general for tears.

the alignment can be very subtle, if you're looking down the barrel through the back of the hop unit you'll get a picture like this: left is misaligned and would curve shots off to the left, right is perfectly centered. of course you have to eyeball it based on the feed tube cos you can't cheat and add an imaginary line like i have on those images. a deformation in the mound of the bucking would do that, some do have intentional shapes (eg the pdi w hold looks like a normal bucking with a v cut in the middle), but it's possible for wear/damage to do something similar which if off-centre can affect the spin and hence cause curving.

tbh probably not worth it for the extra cost, especially if you're not fussed about future expansion or the need to re-wire the gun if you do change your mind. afaik the ab++ is perun's warfet competitor, so unless you care about the first semi shot after a burst in auto having precocking then should be good. not used them personally (prefer the warfet's programming card) but perun have made a solid enough name for themselves.

i'd be tempted to say the nanoasr over the picossr, if you wire it up with the hybrid wiring (ie 2 wires to the trigger seperate to the 2 wires to the motor) then it's basically a plug and play swap to the likes of a warfer if in future you decide you might want some precocking goodness. iirc the motor i ran in the jg (only gun i ran on 11.1v long term) was one of the asg basics (the stock scorpion evo motor), and that would happily chug away all day (well, if you changed the 800mah battery at lunch) not sure if they do a long shaft version though (assuming it's long shaft you're after).

i feel ye man, exact same story with me g&g f2000, had to order from evike......

not recommended isn't strictly the whole story. it'll increase your rate of fire/cycle time (aka "trigger response") on a given setup, and for mostly stock guns it's an effective way of boosting the system without splashing out on aftermarket motors. the trigger contacts thing is an issue, but unless you're running a less common gun with proprietary trigger parts it's not so big a deal to have to change out a set of contacts if they burn out. generally speaking if you're building the gun (ie changing all the things) then you build to the battery you're using, which often means 7.4 when combined with typical motor/gear combos. the mosfets to avoid are the ones that only offer active breaking without any precocking functionality, as outside of some specific cases applying active brake to a build that doesn't need it (ie a sane and sensible build) can cause issues with the system stopping too quickly and locking up on semi-auto.

as much as i'm a fan of the pdi barrels, you really need to have the rest of the system perfectly dialed in before it's going to be a noticeable difference compared to the likes of the ZCI, and the ZCI's are much cheaper.

depends on what you're getting the mosfet for. if it's just a basic unit for protecting contacts, then whilst any battery will eventually carbon them up the higher discharge stuff especially 11.1v li-po will drastically shorten the lifespan without a mosfet. if you're looking at more advanced units (warfet/ab++, titan etc) then the driving factor is additional functionality rather than strictly battery choice.

Note: when doing this use a flat ended tool.

looks like that's the stock length for his gun, which tbf is generally a good starting point. as @Impulse suggested, going a little either side is fine (9mm longer ain't gonna be too visible in the flash hider).

Tbf, the condition doesnt look too bad. Looks like a typical case of not realising airsoft depretiation rates.

Worth noting that whilst sure it aint pretty or "proper", and not something you'd expect a decent tech to do, ptfe tape does work for the cylinder head when done neatly. One of those bodges that does at least have some basis in reality for those who only care about the result and don't worry about the next guy who has to open the box. Generally with the cyma's air seal is what i'd gravitate towards as an area to be addressed. A nozzle with a sealing o ring is a good shout for any box that doesn't already have it.

it is still possible to trip up the warfet, although not as easy as a mechanical trigger. you'll get the feel for it regardless. ahh yes, spinning the cylinder. tbh from all the messing around i've done i've tended to find aeg's are that badly sensitive to overvoluming, on the likes of an hpa you do gotta get it right although thankfully on those platforms it's also very easy to get it adjusted perfect for the ammo you're using. as a general rule sticking with stock ain't too far off. chrono is a useful tool for tinkering, worth getting one if you don't have one already. it's a good way of measuring the quality of air seal and to some extent expected accuracy (at least the factors relating to consistent velocity).