Adolf Hamster

think this is a good comparison. as with anything cosmetic done to pews it's gonna add value for those who share your tastes, and detract for those who don't. but if your target demographic is willing to pay the extra then it's not really dreaming to be charging it.

Play several games with the gun as-stock, do nothing but clean the barrel. Figure out your playstyle, are you getting up close and personal? plinking from distance? Have a good notion in mind of how the gun is performing, and what about its current performance needs improving. Then its time to start talking about how to go about improving the performance to make it better at doing what you need it to do.

memory is rather vague on this one, i think it ended up on my warhead build but honestly can't recall how i ended up fitting it, but i suspect a significant amount of bodging was involved.

brass can be susceptible to corrosion that a stainless barrel wouldn't, i've always leaned towards stainless for that reason although if you're keeping your barrel regularly cleaned it shouldn't make much difference. as for diameter, i wouldn't worry too much about it, overall barrel quality (ie the straightness, consistency of diameter and surface finish) of the barrel tend to be the more important factors. yes tighter diameters eg 6.01 can foul more quickly affecting accuracy, but this can be solved by regular cleaning. you're unlikely to be getting enough rounds through a mk23 to need mid-day cleaning if you're showing up with the bore spotless.

sort of yes and sort of no. whilst yes a bb will be using gas for its propulsion, if you consider the effeciency of nbb platforms versus blowbacks it's evident that the lions share of gas usage in the gbb is in actually cycling the thing, and tests with no bb fired do still demonstrate that the relevant sealing surfaces are doing a decent job of not sending half the reservoir into the atmosphere every shot. that said, an element that firing a bb will bring to the table is an increase in backpressure, one thing i found running heavier than your average ammo in pistols is that one side effect is the bulging (and i've heard albeit only anecdotally catastrophic bursting) of the nozzle due to the pressure, needless to say, this is gonna be putting more strain on the sealing surfaces which wouldn't be there in a dry fire test.

More expensive, does not always mean better performing

This, right here, is why the internet is awesome

If the clip fits don't worry about it. You might want to check the rubber isn't getting stretched when pushing the barrel into the hop unit. Made the mistake of buying a madbull hop unit which was so damn tight it would pull the hop unit over the end of the barrel when fitting.

It is true, money can't buy you happyness, but it can buy you bacon and that's pretty damn close.....

whilst they can sort of work with standard nubs, anything without the radial shape of the omega is gonna distort the bucking, reducing the effectiveness of the contact patch. how bad is the over-hop? if it's minor then jumping up the ammo weight might be worth considering.

it does amaze me how folk are happy to take the ridiculous depreciation hit that selling airsoft equipment secondhand provides, but then cheap out at the last minute for the sake of a few £.

think there was a topic recently about this, vague memories of the judgement being that the forum code didn't support ads expiring or somesuch. changing "completed" to "sold" would probably fix the issue of new joins contacting members about long sold items although it might be confusing when the ad is set to "sold" because the seller has withdrawn it only for them to re-list it later. i know i've done that if life stuff means i won't be engaging with the forum for a while and i just want to temporarily "pull" the ad.

replies to post about some new escape room with airsoft adjacent 2 posts later;

In that case it does really sound like the nub has ended up in an odd position/orientation, but you've already checked for that.....

you spelled "objectively superior" and "easy to use" wrong

the omega nub isn't designed to be used with anything but the maple leaf rubbers, so i wouldn't be surprised seeing those symptoms with a standard style bucking. that said, it shouldn't really be doing that with the maple leaf bucking. these are a rotary style hop aren't they, is it possible the tail end isn't engaging in the wheel in it's correct slot? also worth looking down the barrel whilst moving the hop through it's range of motion, see if it's actually moving as it should.

I mean 0.25 out of 2 aint bad?

oh dear, it's definately migrated it's way to outer mongolia by now.......

you tried measuring fps consistency with a chrono? especially if it's more vertical dispersion than horizontal could be a leak growing elsewhere in the system. you might be one step ahead here but cleaning a barrel in-situ with your typical cleaning rod can end up just pushing crap down the barrel into the hop chamber, good to give em a clean outside the gun when the opportunity presents itself. whilst 'borg doth jest bb manufacturers have been known to pull shenanigans turning ol'reliable into absolute garbage in the space of a single batch code.

depending on where it is tappet plate would be the most likely culprit just act casual and hope nobody noticed, that's what i always do

that's the joys of the m4 platform for you...... honestly motor wires are like usb sticks or unlabelled push/pull doors, despite there being only 2 ways to do it they unfailingly require 3 attempts to get right is it not just the sector still sitting in the "firing" point of it's cycle? or are you turning the gears over and it's not moving the piston?

that type of mag catch looks to be the type that the bar is threaded into the button, so you gotta push the button all the way in then unscrew the other side. they're a bit of a pain as often the bolt catch paddle needs to be removed to give clearance. as for the spring, sounds like initially it got kinked and dropped downwards, not really a big deal unless it gets stuck or bent permanently, just pull it out and reinstall. for the piston in the rear position, the lazy way to solve that without cracking the gearbox is to use a flat ended tool (a punch or a flat ground hex driver, basically anything that won't scratch the piston head more than you're happy with) up through the nozzle to push the piston all the way back then it'll usually be able slide forward again. you don't have to pull the motor, but doing so will reduce the force required to push the piston back. at the risk of creating a "do'h" moment the clicking after reinstalling the motor, sounds very much like the polarity of the motor is reversed, so it's running backwards into the arl before the mosfet kicks in and starts complaining.

gonna need some more to go on, was anything done to the gun first? or has it just drifted out with use?

no apology necessary, there's no mic on the akg's they're purely audio headphones. i get around this on pc with an external mike, afaik there are add-on mic's available but might not be so compatible with console.

budget unspecified? i'm currently using a set of akg702's, they're open backed so my biggest problem is determining if the background noise is from whatever game i'm playing or the neighbors having a domestic. comfort wise they're great, no trouble wearing them for hours on end, and with my current sound setup (pc soundcard+headphone amp) the audio quality is excellent, as above i have trouble distinguishing between certain media sounds and actual real-world ambeince.