Adolf Hamster

yeah, i must admit it was quite the eye opener buying an lct. but i'm running an e&l now so all is good with the world

can't say i'm familiar with the arcturus system. although tbh my ak buying habits tend to start at exterior quality and end at e&l

*looks at bag of 0.48's* *looks at 1j SVD*

i wanna say it's as simple as the contacts are engaging before the trolley is far enough forward to get caught by the cutoff lever.

ooh we have a doozy here: £100 over retail (retail in this case being the first shop in a google search claiming the same model in stock)

yep, i'm still not entirely certain why they decided to have such a ridiculous mechanism for the fire selector

ordinarily the issue i'd be thinking is still the hop, maybe the level of adjustment is sufficiently course that in the space of a click you're going from not enough tension to do shit to enough tension to jam? you might have a better idea by feel wether or not that's a possibility. normally before reassembling any gun i tend to turn the hop off/on whilst looking down the barre just to be sure it's all moving right and the rubber is sitting nice and square.

it's always worth checking and double checking the teeth. is it top wired? you might be having issues with the selector plate catching on the wires and getting stuck forward (come to think of it, that would explain why it'll fire auto once then go to only semi), if the selector lever is stiff this would be a good indicator.

i wanna say it's the teeth on the selector arm jumping out of position during reassembly, they're tricksy buggers for doing that. best way i've found is to ensure to assemble with the gun on it's left side, let gravity hopefully hold them in place but hold them down for extra security.

that is what happens when people buy a 3d printer. "if all you have is a hammer every problem looks like a nail"

clearly listed ruleboards that are consistently and effectively enforced by a sufficiently sized marshalling team for the number of players. there are plenty of things i'd love to see in sites, but that is by a country mile the most important one for me.

Cheeky sod

Not gonna be blinding anyone, but its still nice

as others have mentioned, it depends where you're getting hit and what you're getting hit by. aside from the obvious eyes/face (which is why eyepro is mandatory and facepro is required for younger players) the 2 areas worth focusing on are ears and fingers. the latter can really smart if you get an unlucky hit. however if you're well wrapped up with decently heavy clothing and you're not trying to push right up next to the other team the vast majority of hits aren't going to be much more than a sting that fades away pretty quick. if you're engaging at the very edge of someone's range it's entirely possible for a hit to be so light you can barely feel it, i've played games in heavy rain where it was hard to distinguish between being hit by a raindrop and a bb.

i'd go for sector through to the bevel first, with the sector biased to the right side (upper if you're working on the left box half as i tend to) then once i've got them set i'll adjust the bevel up/down to match the pinion within the range where you're still getting good enough engagement with the idler. but it's one of those things that you can kind of do it however you like as long as the gears aren't binding with anything, aren't too tight/loose and the pinion position isn't too egregious. y'know short stroking isn't something i've done all that often but when i did i used to do release side, but i can't say i have any valid reason for that. i can definitely see the logic in what you're saying. depends on the functionality you want, but i'm kind of liking the warfet these days for a milder build (ie not extreme response/rof builds that merit a titan). gives you some nice snappy response with precocking and not too bad to wire in if you're not afraid of a soldering iron.

afaik isn't mancraft's whole deal accuracy? i'd assume that you'd be getting proper closed bolt operation. you other option might be the polarstar kythera, for a mechanical only semi-locked action.

yeah, and battery cutoff might be handy if you ever want to loan it out, although i just shout at people when lending them guns not to keep firing when it starts to die.

is it racist if i blame it on him being italian (you know i love you really @Skara ) to my eye (caveat ofc that it's just one photo) it wouldn't hurt to shift it back a bit, not too much though. i'd also be sure to check the piston isnt rubbing on the gear- that extended rear tooth looks like it might be rubbing. if, like me, your objective is perfect accuracy then the air seal is never good enough hard to say, but i have had boxes *cough*lct*cough* that needed as much as 1.5mm of shims. that's admittedly on the extreme end but not unheard of. personally i like these kits from ak2m4: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/bushings-shims/xt-shim-set-etched because it's real handy having them marked what they are. ^this can't say i've ever opened a stock marui box to see what their stock aoe is like, but i reckon it's less about design and more about manufacturing tolerance, or lack thereof. plus it's possible that in the very early days marui didn't put in as much effort as they would now purely because they wouldn't have known what they were starting/didn't think it was going to take off like it did, although take that with the huge pinch of salt required for one guy speculating on the internet. must admit not heard that one before, although certainly i can see them not bothering to correct something that wouldn't be an issue with a sub 1j gun being cranked by 90's spec nicads. yep, the issue with aoe correction the impression given that it needs done to every gun, when the reality is some guns need it, some don't, some need a little, some need a lot. the "5mm of sorbo minimum in everything" school of thought is as ridiculous as suggesting every gun needs 2mm of shims on every gear to work properly, which is the message i think folk like yourself and negative airsoft are really trying to get across.

it's how i do it, just be really careful about listening to your gun and knowing when to stop firing if it's starting to sound sluggish rather than just hammering the trigger till it's dead. ofc as @Skara says if the nanohard isn't much more money and does do battery protection then happy days.

the only thing i could say against this is afaik the nanoasr doesn't have battery protection. but yes i am a fan of the nanoasr for the cheap and cheerful "stop you arc welding the contacts together" role.

aoe is something that should be checked and sometimes adjusted, but very often it gets over-corrected to ridiculous levels or adjusted in guns where there wasnt an issue to begin with, and i've never seen a gun that needed more than 2mm max of spacing to achieve it. what you want is a nice smooth pickup of the piston rather than "must be at the 12 o clock position". i can't say i agree with the whole "well manufacturers aren't doing it" argument, some do (for example e&l's thicker piston heads do effectively the same job and if you change to a standard head you need to correct the aoe) and lets face it manufacturers like nuprol exist, but that's a can of worms for another thread. the way i tend to check is with the piston fully forward and no spring i'll close the halves together and turn the sector by hand to feel if there's any catching. i tend to prefer putting something in the cylinder rather than on the piston as i like to keep the mass of the piston low (for example i don't run thrust bearings on the piston, only the spring guide), but unless it's a high speed build you can certainly get away with spacing on the piston rather than the cylinder. as for the bearings are you meaning that they're loose in the shell? because the shimming will help hold them in position, if you're meaning the inner section is moving independently of the rest of the bearing then they're worn out.

in a purely technical sense @EDcase does have a point, the hop should be applying a lifting force from the moment it leaves the barrel. wether or not there's enough difference at 5m for it to shift on paper at that distance i can't really say as the rare times i'm engaging at that distance i'm not even bothering to aim.

This is the difference between accuracy and precision Normally we use the terms interchangably but this perfectly demonstrates it. Precision (which is what a lot of times is meant when talking about "accuracy" in airsoft) is the size of your groupings. Accuracy is how close that grouping is to the aim point in this case the bullseye. This is why gun sights need to be "zeroed" so that for a particular person the shot lands where they think its going to land. Kudos on actually noticing it so quickly, as this problem is often the cause of a lot of "take yer ****ing hits" style arguments when folk dont realise the gun doesnt just magically shoot on target out of the box. Most rifle iron sights, scopes and red dots have this functionality built in, however often pistols dont. At best you might be able to tap the front sight left/right (some pistols theyre fixed even if they should be movable) to adjust there. Vertical dispersion on a real handgun is kind of "fuck it, close enough" but in airsoft you can use the hop unit, which is what you were trying to do. As @EDcase says normally you'd expect motion but tbh at 5-6m its probably not enough time for the hop to really be taking effect (normally it only kicks in further downrange) However the simplest fix which works on any gun is just to apply "kentucky windage", ie just aim up and right a bit to account for the shots going low left.