Adolf Hamster

oh no the geardo's are still valid targets. especially when they're wearing mtp in woodland.......

I'm not sure i'll be buying another lct for a while after the let-down with the last one i bought.

Absolutely this. I make no claim to be any kind of master of stealth. But i've seen (or more correctly not seen) what someone with a few skill points in the sneak tree can acheive wearing plain olive. Camo is unnessecary if you're not where the other guy is looking.

Tbh for the most part i'm in agreement, but a bit of light hearted banter every now and again isnt so bad. End of the day it takes all sorts, speedsofters might be an easy target but there is an argument that every team needs a few folks doing that job just like it needs slow buggers like me methodically picking people off at range and one cant function without the other.

Not necessarily, we're talking fractions of a mm difference between brands. Not to mention valves etc.

wait, there's more to airsoft than moaning about how other people play airsoft!?!?

tbh if they're not doing something to make it obvious they're on my team they're getting shot, and if they complain they've only got themselves to blame. kind of ironic really considering a lot of the ghillies you see are either totally mis-matched for the terrain and stick out like a sore thumb, or the wearer is trying to speed-soft with a bolt action to the point they plainly don't care about stealth to begin with.

they really do, even worse is when you see them feathering the trigger with their off-hand for the full speedsoft experience. odd to see it on an m9 though, normally it's just hicapa's and glocks fall victim.

fair enough, it's mostly internals i'm concerned about, the externals look pretty damn solid. fella i was chatting to at the site didn't mention any issues but he hadn't had the thing that long.

one issue i can think of is the seal against the nozzle, if the mag is slightly shorter it'll not seal tight and vent gas even if nominally it might fit/feed/fire

There is simply no substitute safety rating for doing as you've done and testing the thing yourself. I agree with the battery compartment, and even though mine worked as designed the fan is simply too anaemic to de-fog.

Tbh, for an evo i'd say its not worth bothering. The whole point of that gun is its good enough out of the box to make it very hard to upgrade.

Sounds like a jammed bb that cleared itself when you pulled the mag. I'd give the barrel a good swabbing and see how she shoots.

Beleive it or not i've quit the hpa, gone back to aeg's with a little gbb mixed in. Daytona'd e&l is very tempting though..........

External wise theyre on a par, really the only reason to get the bolt would be to have the recoil. I'll maybe try and sneak a closer look at one in me local when lockdowns over see if i can see what the options are if the mech breaks.

So my standard reason to be wary of ebb's still stands then. I did try one in a shop about a year ago and i'm not surprised theres strain on the box with the recoil. Maybe i shall bide my time and see what comes up, because i also want an obzor.....

I dunno, mine seem to be ok. You dont get the last couple of rounds but other than that the feeding is reliable (as in gun stops feeding its time to reload) Although i might at some point mess around with springs, think i have a bunch of springs out of some 200 rounders around somewhere.

As a general rule i tend to use the macaron+omega nub combo in all my guns. Tan for general use (which for me is in the .3 range) or green if i wanna shift the heavies. Some guns however might not like the longer feed lips on the maple leaf stuff so i'd use the pdi w-hop with standard nub, but that's pretty much based on trying and seeing. Of course those are just my personal go-to's and as the yanks would say your milage may vary.

Yeah but mans already bankrupted himself setting up the dragonuv i kinda dont want to do that again......

Not gonna lie part of me was thinking ghk, but then i looked up how much they cost.....

Ahh yes, the sneaky bugger. Changing rubber to a macaron should up the energy a little by not needing the same pressure to get the spin, add some .32's and a good clean barrel you're laughing.

Hmm, 2 very conflicting opinions...

so, help me decide. i'm thinking i regret selling my e&l aksu, even if it was the weird romanian one, and i think i need another in my life. normally my go to would be straight up e&l as i know what i'm getting, but having bumped into a Bolt last shoot before lockdown i must admit i was kinda taken, the externals are real nice (probably e&l oem nice). do i risk the clockwork nightmare that is working on a recoil mech or stick with what i know?

Do you mean the adjuster in the motor cage or the external grip screw? The adjuster normally you set for lowest noise, start tight (locked up) and work your way looser, better a lockup than chewed gears. If its the external grip screw it could be too long, it can happen with ak's that tightening up the grip will hit the motor adjuster and overtighten it, i'd suggest some washers rather than cutting the screw just in case that's not the problem. 290 could be what the spring is capable of, i'm guessing you checked compression with the nozzle in place too? The other area where there could be a leak is between the bucking and nozzle, you can try feeling for air (or using a bit of paper) on the feed tube to see if there's any air escaping from there. If there is a leak, assuming its a correct length nozzle with no damage then the culprit is the hop rubber, might be worn, torn, or poorly installed. However seeing as a good next upgrade to consider is a hop rubber then maybe not too big a problem. Personally i'd give the macaron/omega nub combo @Speedbird_666 linked a go, should get her lifting some hefty ammo no problem. if you're absolutely sure that the air seal is good then you can look at a spring change, although 290 should be fieldable unless you play a range heavy game.

the o-ring should normally be pretty baggy around the piston, it doubles as a one-way valve hence the holes in the front of the piston to help inflate it up. it should however be a nice fit to the cylinder (worth checking the cylinder bore is nice and scratch free) to give good air seal. also worth ensuring the back face of the o-ring track is clean too (that's the side it's sealing on when firing) the ptfe tape around the cylinder head is one of the methods of fixing/improving air seal, can be effective if done right although it's a bodge to get around having a good o-ring-cylinder seal in the first place. if you have a look in the guide i linked there's some pics show how to check the air seal. as for the mosfet, looks like it, not familiar with the brand but looks like a generic one, good if it works will save arcing on the trigger contacts.