Adolf Hamster

yeah just keep an eye on the classifieds, the good thing is because you're gonna tinker with it anyway you can just worry about buying based on external condition.

aye it would be worthwhile. but it's still a scary proposition that there's nothing but my own honesty stopping me rocking up with say the dragonuv, legitimately passing chrono on 0.2's then spending the rest of the day blasting .48's far above the site limit. this is why i absolutely despise the "1fps over you're out" kind of sites, because as @Rogerborg is fond of saying "it's nothing but safety theatre" if they're not accounting for creep or chrono'ing people in-game.

there are a number of ways, but its kind of scary how many times i've chrono'd on the heavies (being 100% honest about the weight i'm running) only to be told "that's a little low" because the fps reading isn't 328 (even though the joule reading is saying 1j) and i've had to point out to them that the reading is correct. and that's without even trying to engage things like joule creep, lying about ammo weights or sneaky reg/npas/spring twiddling shenanigans.

^this, this, a thousand times this. if you don't know what you're at it's going to be pretty much guaranteed that something is gonna go wrong and you'll be doing the walk of shame- ask me how i know..... i'm not against learning teching btw, it's a skill i very much recommend people learn, but it's not something that should be learned on your first and only pew. i'd reccommend you maybe look into picking up something cheap on the classifieds and using that to tinker with.

the only way you're gonna feed an hpa gun from that kind of compressor is a direct feed in to the gun. i have done it for testing purposes, but it's not something you're gonna be fielding outside of perhaps a vehicle mount. i'd wax lyrical about the importance of respecting the hideously dangerous pressures hpa is supposed to use, but @Tommikka has covered that already.

Given most sites dont understand the basics of kinetic energy as it applies to different bb weights i'd assume not. Its kinda scary how easy it would be for folk who know a bit of how these things work to run as hot as they like. Or even with joule creep to run hot and not even realise.

Could be interesting if its done thematically, like a milsim sort of thing but with a level playing field.

it depends on what how far you want to go. personally, if you want a really nice solid ak at £300 then i'd be looking at the E&l 105's, https://gunfire.com/en/products/el-104-assault-rifle-replica-gen-2-1152202733.html (it's a 104 i know but for airsoft purposes you pretty much switch the mag to a 5.45 style and it's a 105) out of the box it'll run pretty damn snappy on 11.1v and aside from a little hop tweaking (ie fitting something like a macaron/omega nub combo) and a basic mosfet to preserve trigger contacts it's eminently fieldable. i'll not knock the cyma guns, if you know your teching you can easily get them shooting every bit as well as the e&l's for much less money, however the externals aren't going to be quite the same level of shiny. for the cyma's you'd have to do some air seal work as well as the bucking/nub but it'd probably work out cheaper. certainly the motor/gears will be perfectly fine with a good mosfet.

yep fortunately the place i'm currently playing at most of the players are pretty good at identifying the range difference. only problem is i'm hesitant to explain how i'm doing it whilst not running hot lest i lose my edge

Absolutely, the other fun fallacy is when folk seem to assume that because you're reaching out to their position that their own rounds are doing the same. Which is as ridiculous as the opposite trope of assuming every gun with a scope is a sniper and therefore shoots further.

Thats normally what i do these days, need a nice long distance to get everything set.

for semi the biggest boost would be looking at a mosfet with precocking, personally i'm kinda liking warfets these days. it'll take up a lot of the response time in semi whilst leaving the auto rof as-is. after that 13:1 with a slow-moderate motor would be the next go-to, although this would only really help if you're trigger spamming fast enough to trip up the system (ie faster than the system could sustain auto fire), of course this would come with a boost in auto rate of fire as well.

it has to be of decent length though. plenty of sites have "ranges" where you're talking maybe 10m max range, nowhere near good enough for setting a hop on even a 1j gun. even the range i was referring to in the op was 20m max and feasable to do with minimal hop.

or if you're a redneck like me you tap out the hole to take a grub screw and use that instead

that's a good way of putting it. i think what was interesting was how people were doing even when target honesty had been completely removed from the equation.

i kind of preferr to look at it as a whole system, but you can sort of break it down that way. often you see singular recommendations being suggested as the cure for all problems. like for example the upgrade the hop argument, when the reality is a perfectly set up hop unit is going to do bugger all if it's being fed shitty bb's but a perfect hop with good bb's is going to still be useless if the air seal is bad but a perfect hop with good bb's and perfect air seal is going to be terrible if it's being pushed out of a crappy/dirty barrel but a perfect hop with good bb's, perfect air seal and a shiny good quality barrel is going to be useless if it's only pushing half a joule on a 1.3j field the funny thing is often getting every aspect to be decent, will yeild better results than having one aspect particularly bad. needless to say the argument here is it doesn't matter if the gun is good if the guy behind the sight isn't bothering to make sure it's adjusted properly.

heavier bb's will always help (caveat: assuming the hop can spin them), wether or not you can stomach feeding a support gun the expensive stuff is a different story. whilst i can't comment specifically on the mk46, if it's the same type of hop unit as the m60/pkm then you could look at the bullgear hop unit, it's a big improvement over stock and you can use standard rubbers/nubs (such as a ml macaron+omega nub combo) to lift whatever weight you like. alternately i've had good results with some redneck modification to the stock unit.

this was after a while playing ballistic peekaboo and i figured if i'd been the one on the other end shooting i'd be starting to get mighty suspicious.

Im sure we all have, you hear the pitter patter of bb's hitting around you and hit the deck. I remember calling myself out without a hit because after god knows how many rounds even i couldnt beleive none had made it through the thin hedge i was using as cover.

the only problem with flinchers is it might not be a flinch from a hit, but instead a near miss. i recall a perfect instance when firing at a fella with the dragonuv, came close enough that he noticed it fly by and flinched but i know for sure it didn't land. but the fella beside me was crying "you hit him, see him flinch"

this probably isn't going to come as a great revelation to most but i figured it's an interesting story that maybe merits use as a means of reminding people about the greatest of airsoft sins- the non hit taker. so to preface this we all know the cry, "call yer [redacted] hits you [redacted]", a yell of frustration at the perceived sin of a player breaking the honesty on which our game is based. it's a trap we've all fallen into and i won't deny having fallen for it many times myself. of course the key word there is "perceived", to many the issue of crying foul is just as egregious as cheating in the first place, no doubt born from having been on the receiving end of such accusations and knowing that the supposed "hit" flew wide (or in my case dropped short). it's a lesson it took me many years to learn, that it's really worth giving the benefit of the doubt in a lot of situations. these days i do my utmost to let things slide unless not only do i see the round make contact, but i know the range and hit location are such that there is no chance of a legitimate no-feel (especially important when engaging at the limits of your range) however recently i had quite an interesting experience that really highlighted the whole issue. a fella had popped up at the site with a rather fancy dynamic targeting system, you had 4 head sized targets which would detect a hit and fold away. really rather snazzy. the site owner had decided to run a little shooting competition, nothing too fancy. the targets were spaced with 2 at 10m, and 2 at 20m. they were set with a 4s exposure time after which they'd hide for about 10 seconds (cant remember how long it was exactly). when you hit a target it'd fold away and stay there. so the aim of the game was simply to get all 4 targets as fast as possible. if you hit a target and it didn't pop then it was still counted to make it fair for folks with underpowered gats. so in the spirit of "this looks like a lark" i decided to have a crack at it, thought i did rather well with a 13 second time to take down all 4. i'll self-profess to not being a particularly good marksman although i do pride myself on making sure my hardware is well dialled in. however what i found interesting was the other competitors, one in particular who was running with a very snappy high-speed m4 managed to expend a hell of a lot of plastic (well over 100 rounds total) and finished in over 40 seconds. watching his shots they were all flying high- the sign of an over-set hop unit although the dispersion showed it was evidently a decent enough gat. what surprised me was that instead of watching where his rounds were going and compensating he just kept firing and firing. now you might argue that perhaps i'm a better marksman than i think i am, or that perhaps my obsession with mechanical accuracy meant i had equipment advantage, however that's easily countered by pointing out the winner was a kid running what appeared to be an unmodified arp556. so this was a bit of fun but it did make me think that perhaps there's a lot more folk out there than i suspected who think their shots are going somewhere different to the reality, and maybe many more of those crys of anguish could be suppressed simply by people putting some effort into knowing their equipment and paying attention to their shots as they fly downrange.

I just dont have a high opinion of madbull hop products, even moreso when the objective is a high end build. I do agree here that this feels like a classic case of the difference between upgrading a gun, and filling it with expensive bits and expecting it to work better. Granted from vfc's reputation i get the desire to replace all the internals straight off the bat, but you're absolutely correct that there's probably issues with tolerances going on, even a great part can fall flat if its not right for the build.

Its kind of self defeating. The maxx is a very, very good hop unit, if not the best then definately up there with the best when setup right (ie good alignment, correct nozzle, decent bucking, tight to the box etc) But i dont think even that can overcome the handicap of a madbull rubber. Whilst almost any of the options (prommy, pdi, stock tm, g&g green etc) would be better if you're running a maxx then it's gotta be a nice ml tan to spin up the heavies.

Did i just read maxx hop unit with madbull blue bucking? I was gonna do an automotive analogy but i'm really struggling. Something about a lambo engine tied to a moped gearbox maybe?