Skara

Yes if the chrono test is made in Joules using game weight. If your site chronoes only on 0.2s (like we do here in Italy, we check Joules but on 0.2s and then wonder why all the HPA guys reach out to 75 metres ) then it can be cheated really easily.

Nah, they only understand their own personal physic laws because they are right and you are wrong

Two sided argument really. I could say throw money at it and make it good, on the other hand I know how frustrating it is to have your ONLY gun act up in the field and having to take the walk of shame when everyone else is having fun.. What I would suggest is to buy a new gun AND some really basic upgrades for your current cyma Namely a hop rubber that is capable of lifting 0.3s, €15/20 tops if you look at the good ones like Maple Leaf or Prometheus. So you get a new gat to play with and you get to keep one as spare/loaner, win win really

I'm safe for now, nobody asks questions, they just think I'm some kind of wizard and they all stick to 0.2s because "there's more in the bag". The italian airsoft scene is quite ignorant, there are "personalities" out there who keep telling people that a 0.2g bb will have more range than a 0.3g because it's faster and therefore less influenced by external factors like wind and gravity, which makes me really happy as I get to keep my range advantage They have recently discovered R-Hops though, thanks to the scam that Psionic is, so they're very slowly catching up. Thankfully the "system" is super expensive at €130 for a shitty patch, an overpriced barrel and a useless tensioner, as of now there is only ONE person in the club that runs it (albeit on 0.2s lol). I say shitty because I've seen it, I've seen the tensioner and tested the performance against my €11 maple leaf rubbers. 10x the expense, 0x noticeable difference. The main issue in this shit country is sourcing good heavy BBs, I've stocked a few Specna Edge (BLS) bags of 0.28 and 0.30 gram bbs, next year I'll see if I can buy in bulk (say one/two cartons of 0.28s, a few bags of 0.3s and some 0.4s) from abroad.

Yup that's the main argument against me when I'm plinking at them with my pistols or bolty (all loaded with 0.3s and Maple Leaf hop rubbers)

Yeah, we do have a couple of places on our field that we never use and are suitable for a shooting range. 70/80m long with not many trees in the way and a relatively flat surface. But yeah, the point is to show people that they aren't sending real freedom seeds down range and that they are definitely not hitting that dude at 70 metres on 0.2s

Not having a safezone here, I always see this kind of scenes, people plugging batteries in and letting off bursts without checking for others. Yep, I definitely need to talk about this with my club's president.

That is not a bad idea! Having a permanent firing range on the field, so that people can a) set the hop correctly and b) understand they gun's range and hopefully stop bitching about people supposedly not calling hits

This is why I am obsessed with hop up rubbers. Don't give a shit if my gun does 4000 rounds per second, if it can't get bbs down range with reasonable consistency it's a shit gun. I have noticed that many people (at least in my club) have no clue on how airsoft physics work, I've had to set the hop for a bunch of people already. Quite depressing as these guys are the ones who usually moan a lot about hit taking. Obviously shots deflected by vegetation (usually the only hanging leaf/sticking branch in the whole field) are frustrating, especially as a sniper because it means racking the bolt and/or drawing a sidearm, which causes movement and the chance to give your position away. I do that often, especially when the guy is really close. He might have not hit me on the first burst, but the second will 100% hit me, so I just call it and walk away

Yup that is your problem In my quest for silencing the striker, everyone always suggested "go HPA" which is a dumb advice honestly. I mean, if I were to go HPA I'd just get a MTW and call it a day. /OT I guess you already tried to add some weight to the SCW piston to slow it down (compensating for the creep with a softer spring) The only experience I have with SAP pistons, unfortunately, is just forum/facebook posts about how shit it is for the striker's standard cylinder

What's wrong with the SCW one?

The issue I have has nothing to do with bb weight or rubber hardness. It's about the piston being too light and the system not giving enough pressure to push the bb past the hop. The piston itself is 15 grams, yes, F I F T E E N fucking grams, no wonder it can't push shit wrapped about 20 grams of solder around it and taped, now it is 35g and change, which upped the power by 0.2something J, clocks in at 0.85J now. Can't test the hop/range as it's too dark to see anything, but hopefully the system will now have enough pressure to let me plink at the neighbor's roof. I have some 0.32s, will give them a go tomorrow (also have some 0.4s but they are dark grey which makes it hard to track them)

Smol apdeit. The new rubber seems to lift them 0.3s just fine. Now though the power has dropped from 0.79/0.8J to barely 0.6J and really poor range @barely 40 metres, methinks it's because of the sorbothane pad in conjunction with the aforementioned lightweight piston + weak spring. SCW piston has been posted, it says delivery within 5 days but knowing Poste Italiane it'll probably be 5 weeks. Since I'm going to the hardware store I'll also pick up an extra roll of solder, later I'll try to add weight to this plastic piston and see what happens

0.3g bbs can't really be called "heavy". Okay they may be heavy at 1J, but the striker definitely lifts them. The Decepticon currently installed is a 60, but it's the 2021 silicone version so it's 55° really (almost as soft as the 50° in my aap).

Theories #1 and 2 are wrong. The hop arm is fine, the integrated tensioner is just a hair longer than a regular omega and it applies nice, even pressure to both the MR and Decepticon rubbers. Testing theory #4 right now. Update: Theory #4 didn't work. Considering that the piston is super lightweight (sub 20 grams I would say) I think theory #3 could be the one. Oh well, I'm gonna have to wait until the new piston arrives and test again Tomorrow I'll go shopping for foam sheets and other materials I need for the internal suppression (cup drill bit mainly).

I did check the fitment when installing the rubber and it was working fine. Being a MR-Hop it requires a smidge more pressure than a "regular" Maple Leaf as the patch design mimics the inner barrel (and actually rests on it). One theory would be that the T-10/T-11 chamber really doesn't like the MR rubber - I'll try with the new 2021 silicone Decepticon I bought not long ago. 2nd theory: the hop arm has a too long integrated tensioner that pushes the front part of the hop rubber way too deep. It's a hinged design so naturally the muzzle end of the tensioner contacts the rubber much earlier than the rear end, this could make the rubber protrude too much, clogging the barrel. To be honest I haven't really checked the hop arm, will do tonight and if theory #1 doesn't work, I might remove a small portion of the tensioner. 3rd theory (unlikely): there is just not enough pressure to push the bb past the contact patch. The stock piston is REALLY light (think 20 grams or so) and the spring is quite soft too as it puts out 0.75J on average. 4th theory (also unlikely): there's something wrong with the stock barrel. Luckily I have a 6.03x300 AA steel barrel so I can try swapping that too. I have a SCW piston on my way along with a gunsmithy TDC (the €30 set with the hop arm) so I don't really mind modifying the stock arm for science. Many people suggested to buy the red AA chamber, but it's expensive as hell at €60 and seems way too complicated to properly set up. And of course I'll go mad on PTFE around the rubber and check for every possible air leak to eliminate any variable.

Yo it's-a me, Skara! Just picked up this gun as a replacement for my striker. I like it a lot, super balanced, lightweight, bolt pull is a million light years ahead of the striker, mags are tiny and hold 50 rounds, I like the trigger design with the sear that rotates instead of being pulled down, makes for a very crisp trigger pull. My plan for this gun was to replace the piston with an airbraked one (stock polymer piston is fine for 1J but I want it silent), fit a sorbo, change the hop rubber, install a TDC and give it a bit of an internal suppression using a shorter inner barrel while filling the outer with foam and/or other sound dampening materials. This is where it went wrong, somehow: At first, the cylinder head was an utter cunt to remove, managed to do it without ruining it too much, sorbo installed and it is a smidge quieter, the stock has been filled with foam and cotton wool in every void possible apart from the fake magazine well as I need to come up with a more clever solution for that. My biggest issue is now the hop up. The chamber itself isn't bad, it's the standard TM style chamber but there are two main differences: - The adjustment system now has notches in which a sprung loaded ball bearing slots into, effectively locking the adjustment in the position you leave it; - The hop arm has an integrated concave tensioner, great for R-Hop/Maple Leaf rubbers on paper. Now, the hop is on-off for me, it either doesn't lift anything or it straight up jams. I thought it was the hop rubber being not-so-great, so I replaced it with a trusty Maple Leaf MR-Hop... Now one would expect to be able to lift rocks, but nope it still does the same, nothing-nothing-nothing-jam. Trying to find the cause of this issue at the moment, but if we analize what actually happens inside an airsoft springer (AEGs even, it's the same thing): -The piston compresses the air inside the cylinder -The air inside the cylinder escapes through the nozzle -The nozzle is (supposedly) sealed in the hop rubber -The air coming out of the nozzle pushes the BB under the hop rubber's contact patch, giving it backsping -BB leaves the barrel Between these steps, something goes Chernobyl levels of wrong 😕 but for the life of me I can't figure it out Any input?

afaik every european country has a maximum energy limit (expressed in Joules) that separates toy guns from air guns/real guns. Giving a fuck about said limit is a different story tho

Also if you post after Brexit takes place, make sure to downgrade the gun to the buyer's energy limit!

You're asking questions that are WAY above our pay grade

AA's packaging design is a bit shit, let's hope that the content doesn't match the box

This box just showed up

And void any warranty

If you look at how the whole system works: motor spins the gears; tappet plate fin gets pulled back by the sector's pin (you have a delayer on that, it's the round metal thingy that's offset from the axle, its purpose is to keep the nozzle retracted for longer than usual to ensure that the bb is fully lifted), tappet pulls the nozzle back allowing a bb to get pushed up, at roughly the same time the piston is beginning to move back and compress the spring; gears are still spinning, the tappet fin clears the delayer and is sprung back forward along with the nozzle, this effectively chambers the bb and seals the nozzle into the hop unit, specifically in the rubber's feed lips; gears are still spinning, the last gear tooth clears the piston rack, piston is pushed forward under tension from the main spring, compresses the air that goes through the nozzle into the barrel and the magic happens. If you remove teeth from the pickup side, nothing bad really happens, the cycle is still the same but the piston is now being pulled between steps 2 and 3 (doesn't affect anything), is still released when it's supposed to, after the nozzle has sealed and the bb is in position to be fired. You can compensate by applying some precocking with a smart mosfet like the Aster. If you remove them from the release side you're effectively reducing the time from when the nozzle goes in battery and the piston is released, if you reduce it too much there is a chance that the piston is released too soon, worst case scenario the piston is released when the nozzle is still retracted and hasn't sealed against the hop rubber lips, in that case you get zero energy output and there is not much you can do about it apart from replacing the gear. In either case a stronger spring is required to make up for the loss of "stroke" Now I have listed the extreme case, but imo it's better to be safe than sorry. As I said it takes time and practice, my first attempt at shimming went horribly wrong, it was so tight that a SHS HT couldn't pull a M90 on 18:1 gears lol Your current one is good, no idea why you are returning the Aster, the quirks I mentioned are valid for all the optical mosfets available. Get a tech to do the installation for you if you are not confident enough

I'd do that from the pickup side, so you don't screw up the tappet timing. But that's just me, it may have no downsides so I'll let someone else confirm/deny this There are two main schools of thought about shimming: spur first and bevel first. Up to you to decide which one you want to follow, I personally do the spur first, but there are plenty of people who do pinion-bevel first and achieve quiet running boxes. Shimming isn't hard to do, but it requires patience at first. R-Hop is kind of a gimmick when Maple Leaf exists, keep it as the absolute last thing to do (you may find the ML rubber to be adequate enough for your project). Also be aware that the Aster requires a bit more care than say a Titan/Perun during installation as it needs some gearbox bits sanded down, plenty of detailed instructions found online though so shouldn't be too difficult. Also keep in mind that some users had issues with the trigger hitting the wires, this causes the whole board to move and messes up the trigger readings.