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About Jester_UK

  • Rank
    AF-UK Starter

Profile Information

  • Guns
    Cya cm.513 m4, G&G cm16 raider L 2 with ETU, APS UAR (V2)
  • Loadouts
    Soldier 95 dpm shirt and trousers and jungle hat, dark mtp plate carrier.
  • Sites
    Skirmish Airsoft Exeter
  • Gender
  • Location
    Kingsbridge, Devon
  • Interests
    Shooting at things lol

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  1. I know this is an old post but I was just wondering how the goggles have performed. I am thinking about going down this route and was wondering how they held up in varying temperatures.
  2. It appears with some UARs the flash hider seems to be super glued on and people have had to come up with various removal methods including molle grips and stuff. I was expecting a struggle with mine, but it unscrewed easily once the grub screw was out. All the mags I have work with it including some unknown brand hi-caps and the one that came with my g&g cm. Funnily enough although they feed ok the only mags that feel wobbly in the UAR are the ones that came with it lol!!!!!
  3. That's a pity, but the mag problem with the v1 is easily fixed with a bit of bodging from the utube vids before I bought mine. I also had no problems removing the flash hider which was another big complaint about the UAG.
  4. Is that the v2 or v1. I have the v2 uar which is rear wired and works with my nuprol mid cap mags perfectly. It was mainly the front wired v1 that had issues with mags I think.
  5. I quite like the idea of flecktarn or tiger stripe so I might see what ebay has to offer. Situational awareness plays a big part and I have to admit my SA is not the greatest, but some people just don't have any at all lol.
  6. I did my time in the marine cadets in the early 80's which was pre soldier 95 DPM which was whatever was given to us and then in the TA it was soldier 95. I find MTP to be a pity of a misnomer as I can't really see how it fits all environments. I don't thinks it really works for woodland most of the time (though I might prove myself wrong) LOL and there are much much better tropical/deserts camo patterns around. Still if the MOD says it works then so be it LOL. I'll give MTP another go if its sunny but its never going to be my go to camo pattern.
  7. Just thought I'd get some thoughts on this. I am a big soldier 95 DPM fan and don't think MTP works in a normal english woodland during the winter months. However, I don't think it so good for bright summer days. As MTP is brighter I'm wondering whether this would work better for sunny woodland sites. I am looking to get up to my site in the next few weeks, so I might dig out my MTP and give it a try if the sunny weather is still going then.
  8. Jester_UK


    Yup I was extremely careful about getting the polarity right. My soldering is not great but it did the job. I did a partial disassembly as the fuse is slotted inside next to the hop up and not easy to get to and it had blown. Not sure how but it's now back together and I've put two mid caps through it with no problems. Now I will have a pop at converting my G&G cm16 hopefully with less drama lol.
  9. Jester_UK


    I have just modified my ASP UAR to a deans connector and also changed the connectors on the battery. The rifle was fine before hand, but when I connected up the battery after the mod, the rifle fired one shot and then wouldn't fire again on semi or auto. I connected up a different battery and again it fired one shot and then stopped. I checked the battery on a different rife and it worked fine. I made sure I had the correct polarity on the battery and rifle connectors. I don't really want to take it apart unless I have to so just wanted to check if anybody has any ideas before I do? Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi Guys Has anybody got any experience of disassembling an ASP UAR. I have looked at Youtube videos which say to separate the upper and lower parts, you just remove the two front body pins, put it on semi and you should be able to pull them apart. I want to change the flash hider, but because ASP for some reason used a grub screw and glued it on, it is apparently easier to remove it with the the upper and lower separated. Any help greatly appreciated.
  11. Is it worth using a laser boresight on my two rifles. G&G raider L with a 4 x ACOG and an ASP UAR with red dot sight. I don't have a long enough garden to zero the sights, especially the ACOG. I presume with a laser boresigh I just zero the sights to the laser? If anybody has any experience or opinions on this, please feel free to chip in.
  12. Now way I can fit batteries in the buffer tube without really bending the wires. Looks like I might have to go for the dremel and epoxy glue lol.
  13. Hi guys Don't know of I'm missing something obvious, but how do I put nunchucks batteries in this crane stock? http://www.khmountain.com/airsoft/product_info.php?cPath=37_57&products_id=5292 The rear plate doesn't come off and the tubes that the batteries would normally fit in are sealed at the back but can be removed from the front of the stock.
  14. ill probably keep the stock and buy and chop down a tight bore inner barrel. Would prefer to have some sort of flash hider to tidy it up and as the threaded bit for the suppressor is inside the hand guard, that shouldnt be a problem.
  15. I have this rifle which I picked up for peanuts. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-513-m4-ris-suppressed?pv=2610 I have since bought a G&G Combat Machine and am thinking of upgrading the CYMA to a CQB M4. My idea is to fit a shorter tight bore inner barrel and getting rid of the supressor and fitting a normal flash hider to just poke out of the handguard. To do this would I need to replace the hop up and anything else. As this is a cheap rifle to start with I dont want to spend alot of money . Not looking to increase FPS which is around 280 FPS as is, just increase the accuracy a bit. Any advice greatly appreciated.
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