Skara

Apdeit. Ordered a new spring, the only one I could find was a G&P SP110 that shouid be here tomorrow. In theory it is equivalent to a M120 so a bit too hot, but considering that the stock spring, which I believe to be a M80 or a very fucking weak M90, gave me about 0.7J on the stock 430mm barrel and 0.6J in the 300mm one, I reckon it'll set me just over 1J on 0.2s and around 1.1/1.2 on 0.4s (the system creeps by about 0.1J when going from 0.2s to 0.4s and by 0.05J from 0.2s to 0.3s). Hopefully it'll only require one coil snipped off instead of half a spring gone. I know I could have gone for a PDI/LayLax but the only place I could find them in stock is AirsoftPro.cz and shipping is freaking €20 from there, so I'll order the equivalent spring + spring guide and a few other bits & bobs to "dilute" the shipping costs whenever I am done paying taxes. In the meantime I have realized that the airbrake on the SCW piston is a bit useless, it's definitely too thin to have any sort of impact on both cylinder heads I have. BUT that is most likely me having absolutely no clue how an airbraked gun is supposed to sound like. I'm popping SCW a message and see what they say. Idk if any of you has noticed but I'm pretty frustrated

Was thinking something more modern, a nice session of waterboarding in Guantanamo Bay, an old classic in summer sports

The only time I ordered from aliexpress (€16 Geissele MK8 plastic fantastic clone) I didn't get any tracking number, only a "seller has shipped item" message. It did come within 2 weeks of ordering tho 😮 which is impressive for my shit 3rd world tier national postal service 😮

Burn the witch!

Define "hot". If hot as in temperature, yes it'll get warmer than with a 7.4/8.4. If hot as in over the site/legal energy limit, bollocks, it's an old popular belief that doesn't make any sense On a stock gearbox with stock motor a 11.1v battery will just up the RPS to just shy of 20, most likely in the 18/19 region, at those levels the piston won't commit sudoku (I know, shut up) unless it's pulling a M150 or the shimming is atrocious. It'll slowly burn the trigger contacts, but since it's an Edge we are talking about, the X-ASR mosfet will prevent that. Go get them batteries.

Shit I'd rock that! Missing a huge blade trigger though

As long as the slide isn't made of tungsten, depleted uranium or granite it should be fine

Either way them springs are really flimsy with very little yield strength (yes had to google the englando translation) so having them always compressed will likely cause "enervation" (is that correct?) thus constant replacement of the part.

Those kinds of mechanisms rarely rely on springs staying always compressed, so my guess is that the system is relaxed at first (no mag), spring then gets compressed (mag is being inserted) and released again (mag seated) and then the spring gets compressed to allow the magazine to be removed.

I also found Guarder springs to be rather soft for what they're rated at, a SP100 gave me barely 1J on the striker and a SP90 got my old ARP (180mm inner) to barely 0.65/0.7J. Btw, SP and M ratings are done with different bb weights, M springs are supposed to give you the number (in m/s) on 0.20g bbs, so a M100 means 100 m/s on 0.2s, whereas the SP springs are measured with 0.25s, again a SP100 would give you 100 m/s on 0.25g (around 112 m/s on 0.20s). That's the theory anyway. Meanwhile a SHS M90 spring in the striker gave me 1.2J easy (300mm inner and a cylinder volume not far from a full v2 one), the same spring also gave me 110 m/s on 0.2s in my specna 933 (3/4 cylinder, 260mm inner). Most likely a combination of the two. Also you mentioned that utter POS ProShit hop unit, did you keep the same unit throughout the test? Or did you go and swap it at some point? IKR, the FCU is the main selling point of the whole line fucking TM recoil syndrome right there

Aight. Small update: TDC installed, was easier than I thought even though I managed to mess up the epoxy mix (instead of 1:1 resin/agent I did 4:1 because I'm a retard), nonetheless it's rock solid now. Maple Leaf cylinder head just arrived and it's 1mm longer than the stock (which per se shouldn't be a bad thing). What worries me is the internal diametre of the nozzle, it's at least 1mm wider than the stock, which I reckon will render the airbrake a bit useless as it won't be large enough to "plug" the nozzle and do anything. It comes with its own rubber pad which is not the softest, luckily it appears to have the same exact specs (ID and OD) of the Laylax sorbos so swapping it shouldn't be much of a hassle. Tonight I'll test the gun fully assembled. Hopefully it'll work.

It's where I get the most info on airsoft stuff from. Every company has moved over there for their advertisements and updates on R&D -.- mostly because their FB pages get zucced a lot because of gun shaped objects in pictures.

Facebook then, Instagram now. If your IG isn't full of pictures from vacations, you are a sad cunt with no social life. Sad, really fucking sad if you ask me.

Facebook groups are easier for speshul people to find though. Although groups like SniperWorks or the MK23/Striker/Specna(to an extent) ones are good, a bit repetitive in questions asked but that happens in here as well (wat am bset gnu type threads). Forums all day, posts are more thought out and the moderation is much more manageable. Plus they have an additional method to filter idiots: registration. You have no idea how many people are being put off by a simple "insert email and create password" page. I have to say, FB is the main reason the major Italian forum died. Apart from the extra registration step, the answers given were more sensible than the ones I kept reading on the various groups/pages. I guess kids didn't like that.

@ImTriggerHappyVS @Duff. Fun times

Aap and drum mag, for example

As promised. Super Macaron on the left, old Macaron on the right. The Super has a tiny ring on top of the feed lip (almost unnoticeable) which I don't think does anything. The main difference is in the contact patch: On the Super is more pronounced albeit it looks a hair smaller and it has those two flat parts that match the walls on the barrel window (the new 2021 silicone decepticon has those too), they give the whole thing a hair more stability and even pressure distribution. The Super also has this ring right in the middle that is supposed to increase the air seal between the rubber and the barrel, but makes it a smidge more difficult to install (it's really grippy). Hope it's helpful @Groot Also sorry, but haven't installed them yet in any gun. Actually the older macaron has been sent to me by mistake, I ordered a MR-Hop, but it's fine to be fair, they all seem to achieve the same exact effect (sending heavy bbs way over there with good consistency).

I happen to have one of each, still in their packages I'll get some pictures for you either tonight or tomorrow morning. And no I'm not a master of anything

Don't get me started on arp mags lol. They are the reason why I sold mine and went with the KA pdw

I see the gearbox front part of the shell cracking like crazy with that alu cylinder head, esp on a crappy G&G box

Yup, especially when the drum mag is sold at an extra -.- Would say €400/450 tops for that thing (drum included)

Yup, can't go wrong with two AAPs

2021 is off to a good start! I have never been so nervous about working on a gun before! I'm currently installing the GunSmithy TDC, had to file away a small portion of the chamber for the arm to fit, drilled my outer barrel to a reasonable standard (had to remove just a smidge of material from one side to make it perfect), now it's just a matter of gluing the turret base onto the barrel. This is kinda nerve wrecking to be honest as I definitely do not want to mess it up. Any tips on doing it right without epoxying myself to the table? And just in case, how does one "unglue" it?